Micargi Seattle SS
- Thread starter Diddler
- Start date
You also just about smoked the motor, IIRC.dogman dan said:
spinningmagnets said:
I used one salvaged from something I can't remember anymore (long ago) to cool the backs of some solar panels as a test, with 3 "15v" panels in series in the arizona midday sun. The fan was run from a different panel at only about 18v because I was afraid of blowing it out at the 60v open-circuit voltage of those 3 in series.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=106119
But you have to be careful, because when they say "48v" they actually mean 48v, not the 52-60v you will typically have for a "48v" battery pack. The Papst fans I have only go up to 49.5v max--I don't know what would actually burn them out....
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Building an ebike using frame of a Micargi Seattle SS. At the point of identifying and selecting an appropriate disc brake kit for rear wheel.
Question, to those who have a Micargi frame, what caliper/kit did you use? Provided a jpg below picturing rear section of frame regarding what appears a support upon which a caliper would be fastened. However, don't have a clue which brand/product would work. Wondering if you can shed light on this issue. I assumed would be able to find an actual Micargi Seattle SS disc brake product, however at this point no luck. If you have suggestions, would appreciate your experience/wisdom.
Question, to those who have a Micargi frame, what caliper/kit did you use? Provided a jpg below picturing rear section of frame regarding what appears a support upon which a caliper would be fastened. However, don't have a clue which brand/product would work. Wondering if you can shed light on this issue. I assumed would be able to find an actual Micargi Seattle SS disc brake product, however at this point no luck. If you have suggestions, would appreciate your experience/wisdom.
dogman dan
1 PW
Yeah, no chain, don't need the freewheel. There should be a shoulder on the axle that is what actually rests against the frame of the bike. Spacers could be needed, but that just depends on stuff like lining up your brake caliper on the other side, the dish of the wheel, etc. If you need a spacer on that side, don't just crank down the nut and bending the frame too much.
sleepy_tired
100 W
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2019
- Messages
- 185
Due to the track-fork end on your bike you really can't practically use disc brakes. Even if you found a very nice kit for it (which I don't recommend anyways).
The point of the opening sticking out the back like that is so you can adjust the distance of your rear wheel from the crank in order to get a single speed chain to the right tension. Too tight and it'll be hard to pedal and it'll wear out parts quickly, too lose and it'll fall off or cause other problems. Also you should have some sort of retention system for holding the axle in place so you don't rely entirely on the tightness of the bolts to hold the axle.
This means that every time you have to adjust chain tension (take into account temperature, wear, etc) your caliper won't line up with the rotor anymore. Calipers are not designed to adjust back and for with a single speed wheel.
Basically: you bought the wrong bike. If you bought the 7-speed version of the bike then you would of gotten front and rear disc brakes out of the box.
Unless you are handy with a welder and fabricating steel parts so you can reconfigure the entire rear end of the bike it will probably be cheaper and easier to just sell it and get the version of the bike that comes with front and rear brakes from the factor.
Or use rim brakes, if possible. They are designed to be adjusted on the fly for distance. Disc brakes provide no benefit over rim brakes on rear wheel. Rear Disc brakes are more of a fashion accessory then anything else, unless you have rims and tires that are too wide for rim brakes.
The point of the opening sticking out the back like that is so you can adjust the distance of your rear wheel from the crank in order to get a single speed chain to the right tension. Too tight and it'll be hard to pedal and it'll wear out parts quickly, too lose and it'll fall off or cause other problems. Also you should have some sort of retention system for holding the axle in place so you don't rely entirely on the tightness of the bolts to hold the axle.
This means that every time you have to adjust chain tension (take into account temperature, wear, etc) your caliper won't line up with the rotor anymore. Calipers are not designed to adjust back and for with a single speed wheel.
Basically: you bought the wrong bike. If you bought the 7-speed version of the bike then you would of gotten front and rear disc brakes out of the box.
Unless you are handy with a welder and fabricating steel parts so you can reconfigure the entire rear end of the bike it will probably be cheaper and easier to just sell it and get the version of the bike that comes with front and rear brakes from the factor.
Or use rim brakes, if possible. They are designed to be adjusted on the fly for distance. Disc brakes provide no benefit over rim brakes on rear wheel. Rear Disc brakes are more of a fashion accessory then anything else, unless you have rims and tires that are too wide for rim brakes.
Chalo
100 TW
These adapters are designed for rear opening frame ends like yours. They take up axle spacing you may not have available, and they push the wheel over to one side of the frame. I don't know whether they work well enough to provide strong braking. But they exist:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283419290000
If you are using a rear hub motor, an adapter like this will not fit over the axle end (unless the hub is a GMAC from Grin).
EDIT:
Looking at the oddly shaped dropout plate, I'm not sure the adapter I linked will fit in it without interference at the bottom caliper mounting hole. So that could be another problem.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283419290000
If you are using a rear hub motor, an adapter like this will not fit over the axle end (unless the hub is a GMAC from Grin).
EDIT:
Looking at the oddly shaped dropout plate, I'm not sure the adapter I linked will fit in it without interference at the bottom caliper mounting hole. So that could be another problem.
Chalo
100 TW
sleepy_tired said:
He does. If you haven't been paying attention, this whole bike is a fashion accessory first and foremost. And it has an overwhelming rear weight bias, so its need for good rear brakes is more than a normal bike's.
Chalo
100 TW
I went looking for more complete pictures of the rear frame ends of your bike. I found that the Micargi Seattle has the same kind as in your picture, but the Seattle SS is different. It has a 7 speed hub with a disc brake, with the caliper mounted on a tab inside the rear frame triangle.
To adapt the frame you have, with its unusual overhanging seat stays, you'll have to get a framebuilder to weld a disc caliper tab inside the frame, or else you'll need to machine a plate to go inside the dropout in the same location.
To adapt the frame you have, with its unusual overhanging seat stays, you'll have to get a framebuilder to weld a disc caliper tab inside the frame, or else you'll need to machine a plate to go inside the dropout in the same location.
This frame caught my eye, not only because it's steel, but that it also comes with a rear disc brake mount, which is a pretty rare combo. It has horizontal dropouts, but notice that the caliper mount is slotted, which seems to add a lot of adjustability.
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bop/d/san-francisco-vassago-jabberwocky-18/7405306761.html
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bop/d/san-francisco-vassago-jabberwocky-18/7405306761.html
You are correct, my frame is a tad different from the actual Micargi Seattle SS 7. The '7' series has disc brakes already mounted. My frame is a mere Seattle SS with no tabs upon which to attach caliper adaptors. Thus, I plan to weld tabs onto frame. However, at this point I've got to locate some type of jig that will align exactly where and at what angle to well such tabs.
A bit tricky for a seasoned craftsman; simply a huge challenge for this novice. However, I press onward. Thanks for the advice and insights.
Would love to see picture of the '7' series on the disc brake side. Cannot find such a picture so far. If having one would appreciate such a picture.
Thanks,
Diddler
A bit tricky for a seasoned craftsman; simply a huge challenge for this novice. However, I press onward. Thanks for the advice and insights.
Would love to see picture of the '7' series on the disc brake side. Cannot find such a picture so far. If having one would appreciate such a picture.
Thanks,
Diddler
Actually it's quite easy to do. Just but the caliper on the disc where you want it to be then have somebody squeeze the brake lever while you tack on the tabs.
