Motor pinout for Matsui 1000w geard hub

[Ellou]

I have a Matsui 1000w hub motor that came with my Ariel rider xclass 52v. I'm upgrading the controller and instead of cutting the higo connector on the motor I want to add a 10 pin higo connector to the new controller.

I just have not been able to find a pinout for the motor and not sure how I could test without have the motor open. My biggest concern is getting the 5v and neg in the wrong place and frying something.

Anyone have any tips to figure this out?

I was thinking of opening the controller and testing from there but I'm not sure if I want to chance that either. It's not the common KT type controller and looks a little harder to get into.

Thanks for any assistance.

 

[amberwolf]

The pinouts may not be universal, but there are a few here
https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=10+pin+higo+connector+pinout

Since you're cutting the connector off the controller anyway, I'd recommend first measuring which wire goes where from it to inside the controller, wiht the meter either in continuity or ohms. If it's potted, you might have to scrape away some of the potting to be sure where they go.

Alternately, before disconnecting the controller from the bike, if it's still functional, you could measure the voltages the controller outputs. The hall connector will have something close to 5v and 0v for power, but all three of the hall signal lines (when not connected to the motor) will be 5v (probably a little higher voltage than the 5v power wire).

The phase wires should be three thicker ones.

If there is a speed sensor or temperature sensor wire, it may also read 5v, or 0v.



You may also need to do this on the new controller depending on whether they're well-documented or not.

 

[Ellou]

Thanks for responding.

I'm not cutting off the connector from the controller, I bought a male to female higo pigtail and I'm cutting that to use on the new controller.

I'm trying to not cut the connectors from the stock parts so I can sell them as I upgrade.

I think I am just going to have to test from the controller and match it up to the motor. My biggest concern is the 5v going to the motor. I think I fried one of my other motors because I didn't notice the wires were different.

 

[amberwolf]

Testing first with the old controller powered on is relatively easy and almost foolproof.

Unless 5v and ground are actually reversed on the hall sensor power, it's hard to damage them with a miswire on the hall wires themselves.

Phase wire power to any hall wire, now *that* is very bad, as it can take out the controller itsef as well as the halls, and if it gets up into the 5v supply itself it will also take out everything else that runs on 5v that is connected to the controller's 5v supply.


BTW, what does the other "broken" motor do or not do now that it did not do before?