Mountain bike for commuting build

Joined
Jan 16, 2022
Messages
16
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Hi. I tried out a bunch of bikes recently and I realised that the bike I enjoy riding the most is a mountain bike due to the suspension and control I have.

I would like to use a mountain bike with full fenders (to not get my work clothes dirty) and potentially a rear rack too.

Is it easy to find these kind of fenders for thick tyres and to install them on a full suspension bike?

I am unsure if I should convert a bike or derestrict a shelf e-bike.
 
I realised that the bike I enjoy riding the most is a mountain bike due to the suspension and control I have.

Oh really? Try riding no handed.

Today's mountain bikes are made specifically for trails that are made specifically for those bikes. They handle poorly on the street and on unconstructed trails compared to the more all-purpose MTBs that preceded them.

I would like to use a mountain bike with full fenders (to not get my work clothes dirty) and potentially a rear rack too.

Is it easy to find these kind of fenders for thick tyres and to install them on a full suspension bike?

You can find something. It won't be easy to install. High mounted motocross style fenders will be easiest, but don't provide good coverage compared to traditional fenders.

I am unsure if I should convert a bike or derestrict a shelf e-bike.

Many ready made e-bikes resist being derestricted. They always cost more than a comparable conversion, and by derestricting one you'll lose the benefit of whatever warranty it had. I would only consider one if you like it exactly as it is, and if the price doesn't bother you.
 
Hi. I tried out a bunch of bikes recently and I realised that the bike I enjoy riding the most is a mountain bike due to the suspension and control I have.

I would like to use a mountain bike with full fenders (to not get my work clothes dirty) and potentially a rear rack too.

Is it easy to find these kind of fenders for thick tyres and to install them on a full suspension bike?

I am unsure if I should convert a bike or derestrict a shelf e-bike.
It would be easier if you could provide the model or specific type of mountain bike you'd like to convert. For full suspension, older models may be easier to convert than newer ones, so if you don't have a bike in mind already, you may want to shop the used marketplace. Mounting a useable rack may also present a challenge. There are only a few full suspension factory options that have useable racks, like the Riese Muller bikes
 
I don't know what your used market is like, but a used FS bike fitted with a mid-drive or hub might be an option. I have a circa 2006 Trek with BBS02 that rides perfectly (for me).
 
I converted a mid 2000s downhill FS bike. Serves my needs very well, dealing with poorly maintained roads, railroad tracks, potholes, etc. Consistently wet environment so full fenders are a must. For me, big steel beach cruiser bike fenders are the solution. Strong support braces and certainly wide enough; I had to do a little panel beating to create a slight dimple to get the rear fender to nestle into the chain stay area.

I got the idea from ES member MadRhino.

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Yeah, I also converted a 20 year-old FSB MTB to a DD hub drive. $30 for a lightly used, slightly corroded Novaro Ponderosa FS. Excellent bike, and fun to ride. It does 30+mph on throttle. I also converted a Trek 700 of a similar vintage with a BBSO2 mid-drive. The thing goes 35mph on throttle. Put a suspension fork and seatpost on that one.

One day my mind wandered and I wasn't watching the road close enough. Almost had the handle bars ripped from hands on the Trek due to an irregular road surface. Only doing 20mph, but I do know what it feels like to come off a bike at that speed. Something I never want to do again. After that I put on the suspension fork (RockShox Paragon), and once you have good front suspension you will feel the need for suspension under your seat. If you are going to travel at road speed good full suspension is a necessity.
 
The hard plastic fenders available are pretty robust (mine are tough polycarbonate) and can be cable tied securely; but it really helps if there are rear rack or fender mounting points on the bike; unfortunately its less common on full sus. You need a decent gap between the top of the wheel and the front fork brace.

One thing to consider and why I’m going back to a hard tail commuter is that the seat height on full suspension bike will be higher when stopped; it drops down when you sit on it. This means it’s not as easy to get on and off the bike. It’s only a factor if you have lots of traffic lights on you commute.
 
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I converted a mid 2000s downhill FS bike. Serves my needs very well, dealing with poorly maintained roads, railroad tracks, potholes, etc. Consistently wet environment so full fenders are a must. For me, big steel cruiser bike fenders are the solution. Strong support braces and certainly wide enough; I had to do a little panel beating to create a slight dimple to get the rear fender to nestle into the chain stay area.

I got the idea from ES member MadRhino.

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That looks cool!

I did try an ebike that had fenders with suspension and it could be a good candidate for fast commuting along trails. Whatever makes the bikes the most comfortable is what I'm looking for.
 
It seems that a lot of the comfort bikes are already ebikes. I'll either have to convert one or derestrict one, as the shelf ebikes are limited to 25km/h here. I'll find a step through bikes that are worth derestricting with my budget.

Trying to keep it at $1500 AUD.

I have 60 18650 cells but I'm not sure if they are counterfeit as the place I bought them from has reviews saying they have sold counterfeit cells before.

I haven't found any info about this bike online but I might test ride this.
 

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The 36v 250w hub motor and 10Ah battery sounds like the specs for my Huffy Oslo. That bike was below $400, shipping and tax included, though I did find the need to replace the controller (Huffy's choice of a lame, weak controller is why the Oslos were liquidated.)

You're not going fast or far on that bike, restricted or not. Don't buy it, because it is just going to join all those other cheap DTC bikes and rust away in a big pile somewhere.
 
The 36v 250w hub motor and 10Ah battery sounds like the specs for my Huffy Oslo. That bike was below $400, shipping and tax included, though I did find the need to replace the controller (Huffy's choice of a lame, weak controller is why the Oslos were liquidated.)

You're not going fast or far on that bike, restricted or not. Don't buy it, because it is just going to join all those other cheap DTC bikes and rust away in a big pile somewhere.
Maybe I'll save up for something better 😆 That's a good point.
I don't know what's available where you are. A good used Electra Townie 21D can be had for $200 near me.
These are cheap in my area too! I might do a test ride.
 
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