MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

So iam Testing now an MXUS with adaptto mini on my qulbix.
Some problems:

View attachment 1

The build up of the hallsensors are not fine - there are possibility of short curcuit over one Hallsensor -
You can see it on the picture - but this is okay and can be solved - MXUS should work finer.....

the other Problem ist the wireing
With my first test i burn down the cable - with about 30A input at 14S LiMn Battery - so i replaced the cable.
I use an teflon high temperature cable - and an shilded Hallsensor cable.
After driving with max setting of the adaptto i also getting to much heat to the cable.
Hallsensor cable are damaged again....



i build up a lot of Chrystalyte Motors - there i had no problem with overcurrent - but the wireing thrue the axcle of the MXUS is bad.

What kind of cable do you use to power the motor. Does an Chrystalyte Axle fits to the MXUS.
What are your maximum setting MXUS3000 + Adaptto?

The motor works really fine - i getting no temperature more than 40°C with my setup direct at the coils - but the cable could not carry the power......
 
ridethelightning said:
solution: get a new axle made, try maddin88, he was making some i think..
to build up an new axle would be no problem.
For me it would be interesting, what power - normal people use with the MXUS3000

As i could see my model - with the factory setup - more than 20A would be not good.
The motor could handle more - but have to get an modification...
 
Something's not right there. I'm pulling 45a without issue, and over the last week 60a they're getting warm.
 
I agree with Samd. You likely have a false positive phase wire combination. These motors can take 40A (Battery) all day long.
Check your No-Load current. On a 4T No Load current should be around 1.05A at 50V
 
hello
i use adaptto mini-e - and have an unload current of about 0,6A
That should be not the problem - i know what iam doing.

As i told 30A should be no problem for the factory wire - but more should get to an problem
The motor temperature stays at low level.....

perhaps anybody who use the adaptto with the mxus could tell me more...
i think i have to talk to doc...
 
I'm already getting customers asking me to swap the main cables because they read someone else did it. It's getting tedious.
 
Samd said:
I'm already getting customers asking me to swap the main cables because they read someone else did it. It's getting tedious.
what do you mean?
I also think the Mxus could handle 3KW at 48V - because everybody seems this to do at minimum
i build up my bike with adaptto e-Mini at 14S - with max 60a - what means about 3KW.
for me it would be interesting to know - how much current the factory motor could handle
If you feel the cable temperature at the factory motor - you could feel that this could not be the right setup - if you use an high current more than 30A

The motor is getting not realy warm - i mesure about max 40C° thats realy good - at the actual outside temperature .

perhaps i get a motor with a bad wireing - that could be.
But it thing a 2.5mm² is to less for high current

To change the axle is not an bad solution - a made this allready for my Chrystalyte motor.
Its good to have at min 4mm² connection from the motor to the controller.

13Kw with the factory cableling - could not be possible with my motor..... that means let say min 130A at 100V.
That could be possible with an axle change and other wires.
But i think - the motor wireing could handle this for a short time


i only want to know - whats possible with the factory Motor an cable
 
Greenroad, I agree with Allex in that someone is not right with your setup. I am pushing 85 amps through my stock wires and while they get warm nil issues. Remember the auto detect is not perfect and you have to fine tune. If you are getting hot at low amps suspect your timing is way out. Check your angle correction, mine is ok at 3.72 degrees, ind timing 0302us, power 1.4 and angle 60 degrees. That's on the v2 mxus and with max-e. Auto detect will get you running but has always set up the angle correction way off in my limited experience.

Sam, I've hit 9.8kw on stock wires and in no hurry to upgrade wires. In my view if you are running a reasonable temp limit on your hub (120 degree C) you should hit temp limit before you have issues with the stock phase wires. You may want to offer a package to your power hungry customers. Upgraded phase and cooling....
 
Greenroad could your wires be rubbing on the disc rotor bolts and created a short?
Doesn't look like they have much room in that photo you posted just a thought anyway
 
thanks for your reply
thats why i am asking - what power your are getting with factory wireing.

At adaptto Autosetup is not realy the best but it works.
i getting nearly the same value as 9lives gets.

To the wireing: i checked the wireing is okay.

okay i will replace the wire again - for me a max power of 3KW is more than enought.
But i also thing with an perfect setup - the factory 2.5mm² is not enough to carry the power - continiously - for peak it would be okay.
But i will check and give you an feedback.
As is told - i could be that i have an bad motor - what does not mean that every motor have this problem.
But my opinion - the chrystalyte axle solution is better than the solution of MXUS.....
 
Samd said:
I'm already getting customers asking me to swap the main cables because they read someone else did it. It's getting tedious.

Sam, I want to apologize for this. I have been talking about the MXUS and mods Allex has done to mine on a couple of different threads now. I plan on bursting north of 110 dc amps through mine with a Max E on my next build. I will stop.
 
Check the phase resistance of all three phase wire combinations. For a 4T motor they should be about 0.115 Ohms or thereabouts. If the resistance is significantly higher, you have a damaged wire somewhere.
[youtube]0cLtTDuRCKo[/youtube]
 
Rix said:
Samd said:
I'm already getting customers asking me to swap the main cables because they read someone else did it. It's getting tedious.

Sam, I want to apologize for this. I have been talking about the MXUS and mods Allex has done to mine on a couple of different threads now. I plan on bursting north of 110 dc amps through mine with a Max E on my next build. I will stop.

BTW, Rix, I think I am ready to send the motor and controller over now. I have all of the stuff on the shelf ready - Charge Coil, PSU(charger), BMS, Motor, Throttle and Controller.
 
hello
lets stay physical to the wireing
i measure the factory cable
line from/back motor 0,034 Ohm

That means loose power of
P=R*I²

0,034* 60² = 122,4W energy loose over the wire at 60A
0,034*120²=489,6W at 120A

with 13KW/400A that would men
0,034*400²=5440W Power lose over the wire...... and this should never ever work with an 2,5mm² wire...
 
Be carefull tho! They do get really hot and in case you push it for long during a long hill at slow speed you will melt the insulation and cause a short! So do this vary carefully.
The stock wireing is based on the original conditions of this motor and that is that this motor is a 1500W motor in reality.
 
... the motor could handle the power of 60A - without any problem - also more - as other users told us.
The problem is to get an stable system if you use more than 1500W you should change the wire or axcle - thats my opinion.
 
BoomerChomsi said:
Okay thanks for the warnings mates! :D
I will make a boost switch, so more control of higher amps :mrgreen:

So 60A is phase or battery current?

Thank you!

60A battery should be fine. Higher phase current for higher Kv motors (3T) and lower phase current for slower KV motors (6T)
Been riding a 6T motor in a 29" fat tire, at 40A battery, and the thing will wheelie no problem at that current.
 
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