MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

[macribs]

Has the ever been any disclosure about what exact modifications is done to the Cromotor? I've seen a lot of talk about the croatians doing mods to improve the overall quality/performance of the motor - but it has all been vague if that. Nothing solid.

My point being could there be done modifications similar to what is done with cromotor to raise the overall quality of mxus and if so what mods should be done? And if mxus is like under par build quality what About QS 205 motors? How do they stand up compared to the build of mxus 3K? Or compared to cromotor or even Doc's 5xxx crystalyte motors?

To be blunt, who gives the best quality motor for the bucks?


What is the first thing to be damaged by heat in the motor? Most likely magnets, right? There are better magnets available, like what Astro uses. Any big hub motors that uses such magnets? If not cooling the motors is the only way for true high output. Has there been any testing done with the water cooling kits from Linukas? How effective are those? I remember Matt said a while back that the Astro's could output even more power then even he expected with radical cooling added. And from what I've seen Matt is not shy of pushing things to the max. If even he was surprised who know how high he pushed that 3220. I am sure way beyond 14 kw peak. As he done that before.

So with radical or effective cooling - what would be the power limit? Possible to push even further then Doc already done? If so how far? 16 kw as it stand. Could he surpass 20kw? Would that require cooling fan, heat sink or maybe water cooling of the controller too?

 

[teslanv]

If the MXUS 3000W motors have failed in use, I have only heard about two instances in over 100 motors I have sold. One was overheated. (A 5T V1 motor) and one had some kind of cogging issue possibly due to a bad set of hall sensors. To date, that is less than a 2% failure rate, at least for the motors I have sold.
While I cannot dispute the minor build quality concerns, I do not believe these imperfections will lead to failure if the motors are used within the 3000W design parameters. If you want to run these motors over 6Kw, then perhaps a bigger motor like a Cromotor or a QS 205 motor would better suit your needs.
These MXUS 45mm motors are VALUE motors with GOOD performance. They are not "Top Quality" and you will not generally Pay Top Quality pricing for them. Some users have been able to mod them (like myself) to perform beyond their stated design, but we do so with the understanding that we are increasing the likelihood of failure (Like any modded motor) when we do so.
My average customer runs this motor between 3000W and 5000W. (18S/75V lithium and 60A controller) and in this power range, the build quality and ride experience is more than acceptable. If you plan to run at higher power levels and are willing to accept a heavier motor, then by all means, go buy yourself a Cromotor or QS motor.

 

[Rix]

I would like to emphasize one of TeslaNV points, these motors are the best bang for the buck. For around 300 bucks, they are almost half the price of some of the Crystalyte motors I have ran. For this price point, you get the best direct drive hub motor out there, and a lot of bang for the buck.

 

[macribs]

Thx for clearing up this TeslaNV. You put content in context. Very good and well said.

 

[BoomerChomsi]

Yup for 300 USD/EURO I can't complain 8)

I have this this motor running for a week now.
I am impressed! I am still afraid to push this motor to the max with my Kelly 350A controller and 25R 20S pack. I have still scares from previous accidents with HS3540 :lol: Anyone knows when V3 is coming out?

 

[markz]

I personally love my mxus 3000w motor. Its real heavy, but for an all power, little-to-no pedal bike its awesome!
I rarely pedal mine. The 2 or 3 times I ran out of juice, its not ideal because of the DD drag.

What will V3 be?
Bigger guage phase wires?
Stouter axle?

 

[\/ampa]

summarized known issues:

- loose single strands / windings
- gaps between magents, broken off edges
- poor stator lamination assembly with rough and uneven surface
- hall sensors not at the right place (the one in the middle that is placed between two teeth) -> i think this will worsen performance and efficiency
- poor sealing

Not all is true what you listed.
I had opened about 6 motors 4 from v1 and 2 from v2.

- No lose strand on neither. was about same quality or better as cry. 35xx
- Only one about 1 mm gap was on all of them but no broken edges.
- No rough and uneven surface of lamination
- Yeah hall sensors in the middle was not glued properly on v1 motors. I informed MXUS about it and on v2 it was better.
- Poor sealing only was on cry. 35xx which had non where i lost a motor through internal shorting because watter build up. MXUS have on both side plates sealing all around.
- Also the wire exit is much better the axle material is much stronger. No more snappy cry. 35xx cheese crap.
- Only the poor screw quality on the side plates i don't like.
- And maybe the bearings could be from a "brand".

For a 90% efficient motor its the best price performance ratio you can get.

 

[\/ampa]

I personally love my mxus 3000w motor. Its real heavy, but for an all power, little-to-no pedal bike its awesome!
I rarely pedal mine. The 2 or 3 times I ran out of juice, its not ideal because of the DD drag.

What will V3 be?
Bigger guage phase wires?
Stouter axle?

On my wish list for V3 would be:
-Bigger guage phase wires from pure OFC copper or better.
-16mm axle
-brand name bearings
-better screws on side plates
-less wight same power.
-a 2 turn version for 36v/48V systems
-optical encoder instead of hall sensors

I hope the designer/engineer from MXUS reads this. :wink:

 

[macribs]

You mean larger brand named bearings?

There should be possible to drop the hall sensors as a part of upgrade/mod of the mxus. I've seen those black and white colored discs in various sizes. Those are small and light. I guess a LED could be used as a light source? Quality LED's has about 50.000 hours lifespan. And the pcb/disc should be possible to replace if needed.

I remember there was a cromotor v1 that got a custom heavy duty axle made - 18 or 20mm? It was huge. Would it be any downsides using such a thick axle? Well yes more added mass, but Ti could be used? Thick and fat so you could insert all kinds "garden hose" sized wires and what not.

Maybe you should check if they would do a custom build based on wanted specs? If many people do group buy I am sure it would be feasible.

 

[markz]

I think they want MOQ of 100 now. No more single buys from mxus I guess.

 

[icecube57]

Weight can be a blessing. The motor is already quite efficient but there is still waste heat. Mass helps the motor cope with peak power loads. Having reduction in mass to make it lighter can be hinder its continuous duty capability.

 

[BoomerChomsi]

I am missing something...QS motors?
Does they have 140mm dropouts like 3000 V2 motor?

Thank you! 8)

 

[madin88]

- Poor sealing only was on cry. 35xx which had non where i lost a motor through internal shorting because watter build up. MXUS have on both side plates sealing all around.

Could you post a pic of this sealing?

Non of the ten V2 motos i have bought by now had a sealing that would have protected against watersplashes. there only was such sticky trasparent stuff AT SOME PLACES which has nothing to do with proper sealing compound. I had already problems with water inside motor so i know whereof i speak.

After talking with MXUS before my last order (yes i have called them ) the motors they shipped had much better finished, but the middle hall sensors still had not been at the right place. I'm sure this has impact on efficiency!
Aside from better build quality i also asked mxus to not add this sticky stuff between the sidecovers and now i can outright apply my own sealant compound instead of spendig lots of time removing the crappy stuff before I'm happy now and it's my favourite high power hub motor!

 

[John in CR]

Best price/performance ratio isn't true.

 

[Allex]

Probably not, but when you add the weight maybe it is? (I am thinking about your monster humotors)

 

[teslanv]

Best price/performance ratio isn't true.

Hubmonster and it's siblings are impressive beasts, I will grant you that. But if we are looking at motors that can bolt right into a 135mm or 150mm bicycle drop-out, I think that excludes Hubmonster.

 

[markz]

What is the spec for the cover plate bolts?

 

[teslanv]

What is the spec for the cover plate bolts?

The cover plate screws do not carry much load. They serve only to keep the stator centered within the rotor, and support of the dead weight of the bike/rider on the axle. The motor covers are further supported by the slight lip that engages the rotor, which is a machined and snug fit. The cover screws are cheap, though. M5x15mm Cap Screws or thereabouts.

 

[markz]

Thanks, I am replacing mine as I stripped the top of a few.

 

[Rix]

Thanks, I am replacing mine as I stripped the top of a few.

I just split my motor, vented it and coated the hell out of it with Boeshield t9. When I reassembled, I used a dab of blue lock tight and only tightened to about 2nm of torque.

 

[Samd]

Best price/performance ratio isn't true.

Hubmonster and it's siblings are impressive beasts, I will grant you that. But if we are looking at motors that can bolt right into a 135mm or 150mm bicycle drop-out, I think that excludes Hubmonster.

+1

 

[macribs]

Thanks, I am replacing mine as I stripped the top of a few.

I just split my motor, vented it and coated the hell out of it with Boeshield t9. When I reassembled, I used a dab of blue lock tight and only tightened to about 2nm of torque.

Pics or it never happened

 

[\/ampa]

What is the spec for the cover plate bolts?

The cover plate screws do not carry much load. They serve only to keep the stator centered within the rotor, and support of the dead weight of the bike/rider on the axle. The motor covers are further supported by the slight lip that engages the rotor, which is a machined and snug fit. The cover screws are cheap, though. M5x15mm Cap Screws or thereabouts.

Yeah but only when no disc-brake and no freewheel is mounted.
I asked MXUS before the V2 group-buy if they can use better screws for more money but was refused.

 

[John Bozi]

On ES FB a guy claims a broken axle on his mxus 3000w 4t.

Little info has been provided but it's causing a bit of a stir.

It's a big issue because I have personally experienced my clyte 4065 break recently and have followed this thread for a replacement motor.

I am guessing if you stick to the road and ride like a frocker all would be well either way.

I blame my terrain the most for braking and would punt on mxus to ride stuff a geared motor should.

Makes me wonder if I really need all that acceleration and weight.... oh the fun that's right.,,,,, duh.

 

[Doctorbass]

On ES FB a guy claims a broken axle on his mxus 3000w 4t.

Little info has been provided but it's causing a bit of a stir.

It's a big issue because I have personally experienced my clyte 4065 break recently and have followed this thread for a replacement motor.

I am guessing if you stick to the road and ride like a frocker all would be well either way.

I blame my terrain the most for braking and would punt on mxus to ride stuff a geared motor should.

Makes me wonder if I really need all that acceleration and weight.... oh the fun that's right.,,,,, duh.

Usually broken axel will most occur when there is more torque on one side of the axel... in fact when the torque arm or dropout take all torque while the other doesn't... or when people buy a set of Torque arm thinking they are good for two setup ( one t_A only per setup... lol) that's not enough!

using two T-A is multiplying by 4 the strenght of a single T-A can take.

Doc