MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Well if it's anything to go by I managed to toast a HS4065 (5T I think) at 175 Phase amps. It turned out to be salvageable as only 2 strands of one phase shorted, but I would say that was at or near it's limit.
I've run my HS4080 (4T) on 180 phase amps without issue so far, although I actively cool it, so not necessarily apples vs apples, but I plan to have a go at 200A at some stage. :)

I think the 3T MXUS should be ok with 200A bursts or even a bit more...maybe 225A?. It also depends on the end turn losses from what I read and given some of the sloppy winding photo's of seen of the MXUS I wouldn't want to push too hard...probably not 250A.

Cheers
 
It is on the very first post, excel file attached. If you stall a motor long enough you could melt it, even at 1000W, nothing to do with the ratio or phase value(well, need to use common sense), just use the thermal sensor and you are free to unleash it all :)
Even though the sloppy winding job it was fine at over 400phase but heat is always damn near!
 
Allex said:
Even though the sloppy winding job it was fine at over 400phase but heat is always damn near!
There we go! :) That's what I thought also. What really killed my HS4065 was the massive hill I went WOT up for ages without enough cooling.

Allex, with 400 phase amps, how quickly did it get up to 100C? I mean with stop/start or a big hill, did you have to stop and wait for it to cool off in traffic or when riding up a big hill?

Cheers
 
Wild style riding(and I mean burning rubber and stop and start with WOT) and it was hitting 130°C in two minutes. Traffic is no problem it cools down when you cruise at 50km/h
 
Yo, I found it after 2 hours of searching.

Page 52 of MXUS 3000 Hub Motor thread. I searched 41-51 and 56 to end.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=63142&p=1062179&hilit=phase#p1062179
 
Doctorbass said:
OK i finally got my custom FRONT suspension motor axel finished!

The Stark & Bros machining shop here dis awsome work! ( Will definitively include them in my next projects!)

So i got my 20mm dia Stainless Steel axel with keyway slot, hole for the axel C-clip groove and all press fit and slide fit diameter just perfect! I also asked for a larger diameter adapter like the White Brothers fork specificely have on the right side. I also installed larger I.D. ( 20mm) bearing on the side cover.

Oh btw just in case you ask, I will use the clamping force of the fork dropout as well as a big dowel pin to transfer all torque from the axel to the fork base.

Here is couple pics compare to the original axel:

Doc, this just occurred to me. Most 20mm forks don't have an open face axle dropout on the legs. so how are you going to get the front mounted? Two thought came to mind, first you press the axle into the stator while is skirted by the legs, very highly unlikely you would go this route. Second and more feasible, you go with a dual crown front fork with no cross brace so the legs can be removed and reinstalled independently with front wheel in place. Am I getting warm?
 
looks like Doc made a custom motor axle and used a white bros usd front fork..
file.php

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=71646&start=25#p1086581

file.php

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=71646&start=50#p1087484
 
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
looks like Doc made a custom motor axle and used a white bros usd front fork..
file.php

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=71646&start=25#p1086581

file.php

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=71646&start=50#p1087484

Didn't know about the link to the thread. Thank EFMX for the link. Looks like I answered my own question.
 
Pros, 6kw max vs. 10kw max. Faster top end speed and faster acceleration on 30s.
Cons, 6kw max vs. 10kw max. You may tend to overheat the motor more on 30s, depending on how you ride.
 
ecologymagnet said:
Leo confirms me that the Greentime 24 with fets 4115 supports 130V, I will try 30S, I could usually go in mode 2 with up to 45A and 80A temporarily.
epic I gotta try this but still sufficient with a 4110... Hhmmmm can't keep myself from pppushing the bbbuuuutton! :lol:
 
leffex said:
ecologymagnet said:
Leo confirms me that the Greentime 24 with fets 4115 supports 130V, I will try 30S, I could usually go in mode 2 with up to 45A and 80A temporarily.
epic I gotta try this but still sufficient with a 4110... Hhmmmm can't keep myself from pppushing the bbbuuuutton! :lol:
:lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Hi, Can anyone tell me if they build a mxus 3k with different length spokes left and right or are people using same length spoke to build the wheel centered on the hub flange?

Any info would be great. Thanks.
 
That would depend solely on if you needed a dished wheel! Pretty much all the commercially built e bike frames use a center built wheel but bicycle frames are a combination of both.

You would build what YOU need.

Tom
 
littleskull99 said:
Hi, Can anyone tell me if they build a mxus 3k with different length spokes left and right or are people using same length spoke to build the wheel centered on the hub flange?

Any info would be great. Thanks.
We will typically build the wheel with the rim perfectly centered between the axle flats. Sometimes this requires different length spokes on one side vs the other.
 
The preferred method of centering a wheel is to even out the side mount points with spacers or whatever on the axle. Dishing a wheel weakens it.
 
I built my own wheel from a mxus 3000w with a ebikes.ca crystalyte downhill rim 33mm wide, however the holes in the flange for the spokes are huge, so I used washers on mine. The washers now are kinda bent in through the hole, so the spoke is forcing the washer inside/center hole to cave in through the flange hole. However I will be using a moto rim from holmes with their spokes, going from a 26" to a 19" moto which equals 24", I might go even more smaller diameter. I do have a 20" bicycle rim that I can mock up, but I think 24 is the sweet spot for the best improvement overall.
 
markz said:
I built my own wheel from a mxus 3000w with a ebikes.ca crystalyte downhill rim 33mm wide, however the holes in the flange for the spokes are huge, so I used washers on mine. The washers now are kinda bent in through the hole, so the spoke is forcing the washer inside/center hole to cave in through the flange hole. However I will be using a moto rim from holmes with their spokes, going from a 26" to a 19" moto which equals 24", I might go even more smaller diameter. I do have a 20" bicycle rim that I can mock up, but I think 24 is the sweet spot for the best improvement overall.

Got any pics of your wheel build?
 
I thought the side plates was already made from good thermal conductive material, the issue of having to make it water proof like this would make it handy just to put heat sink inside on the side plate that collects heat and acts as a fan, thermal paste to help, and another on the out side of the side plate to increase surface area. No holes required.

The heat sinks inside orientated in a way to create lots of circular airflow inside, and the heat sink on the outside to lessen wind resistance but it is still getting plenty of fresh air flow.

It is that easy. :)
 
Even if the motor is not running or running slowly the out side area of most hub motors have plenty of room to give off heat, they are generally just made to achieve high RPM with as little wind resistance. The sealed motor works well for those who like to save juice, which in itself is an interesting field..

While the side plate is giving off heat stationary or moving this will equate to a cooler motor in the next throttle.

I believe adequate thermal capabilities for high watt motors could be achieved just by maintaining the entire hub temperature by making full use of the thermal conductive properties already available that come with the motor.
 
A GREAT SUGGESTION? Like the fans, instead, rivet the fin halfway covering the vent over every second hole then pull it up so it shaped like a scoop then on the inside of the plate do the same so the scoop removes the air.
 
hi guys,
recently i have got a nice milliohm meter and did some measurements right off on my MXUS motors.
the metter is really accurate. i have verified with a high precicse DMM and constant current source.

thats the 3Tx20 motor:

JDKDNb.jpg


for the 3Tx21 i expected something like 53mOhm or at least lower as the 20strand motor, but WTF?:

Tz8v1a.jpg


neet to check if all strands are properly solderd and especially the delta termination joint.

stock phase wires have 18mOhm (not shortened)
for the 3T motor this would mean 25% of copper losses are in the phase wires. -> not recommended to use it like this.
on 4T it would be about 15%
on 5T about 10%

I also got the new QS 205 V3 with 4T winding (it should be 11,5kV) and measured resistance. it only has 40mOhm incl phase wires. not bad!
 
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