Samd
10 MW
Man its tighter down there then Gina Rinehart's undies.
That is a fat caliper.
What size rotor fella?
That is a fat caliper.
What size rotor fella?
MXUS 5T - 4 Banger Build
- Thread starter Jestronix
- Start date
Yeh Regina wouldn't touch this one, it's a 22 I think, non ISO remember, i can't space anymore or I'll hit the phase wires so that's maxed out, I've drilled out the calliper holes in order to shift, but now I'm limited by the disc, so how far do I dare shave the calliper before I hit oil 
it's fat as.
it's fat as.So grabbed the old RC meter today, it won't read over 60v , so I hung it off just one of the packs, so I can see capacity, sag and max amps /watts
Is a 4x4s so I'm near 4kw on wot.
Controller puts out the Amps multistars putting out 10c for 6.6ah cells. So not a big stress on them. Voltage sag was down to 3.5 per cell, for a 70% full cell.
Is a 4x4s so I'm near 4kw on wot.
Controller puts out the Amps
multistars putting out 10c for 6.6ah cells. So not a big stress on them. Voltage sag was down to 3.5 per cell, for a 70% full cell.
12t free wheel is on
And then there was another hour spend on the rear brake again! I had to grind some more around the bolts and off the back of the calliper, in all the effort I found a few more mm.
And now I have a mm or two of clearance, did an 8km ride for a test all happy , need new pads though these are glazed. These Hayes callipers are from 1999 and are oh so fat !
And then there was another hour spend on the rear brake again! I had to grind some more around the bolts and off the back of the calliper, in all the effort I found a few more mm.
And now I have a mm or two of clearance, did an 8km ride for a test all happy , need new pads though these are glazed. These Hayes callipers are from 1999 and are oh so fat !
Lurkin
100 kW
Theres gotta be a better way than grinding.
- new caliper
- offset disk rotor (not sure if these even exist)
- spares
hmmmm. Can we get a few photos of the phase cable issue/ rotor attachment area?
- new caliper
- offset disk rotor (not sure if these even exist)
- spares
hmmmm. Can we get a few photos of the phase cable issue/ rotor attachment area?
Well I just upped my voltage to 75v @ 60amps , what a difference ! Used some nanotech batts as well, big difference the pull is far better. 5t at 75v is nice, my fets are 75v max though so I'm pushing things mmmm the motor got a little warmer this time round
mmmm the motor got a little warmer this time round 
Racer_X
1 kW
Jestronix said:Well I just upped my voltage to 75v @ 60amps , what a difference ! Used some nanotech batts as well, big difference the pull is far better. 5t at 75v is nice, my fets are 75v max though so I'm pushing things
Jestronix, What is your top speed with this voltage?
izeman
1 GW
i still can't see any decent torque arms. install them NOW or you will regret it sooner than you imagine!!!
izeman
1 GW
do as you wish if you know better. i don't care.Jestronix said:
TotalConfusion
100 W
Without Torque Arms that STEEL axle will just chew out your 10mm thick Aluminium dropouts and spin freely in the dropouts ripping your phase and hall wires to bits.
I see you got Sams other 5T, Im planning to run mine on 21s 18650 cells and 20s Multistars if i cant find a good 100 volt controller but thats in a 18 inch moto rim so my top speed will be lucky to see 75kph.
You really need to sort out those Torque arms though.
I see you got Sams other 5T, Im planning to run mine on 21s 18650 cells and 20s Multistars if i cant find a good 100 volt controller but thats in a 18 inch moto rim so my top speed will be lucky to see 75kph.
You really need to sort out those Torque arms though.
rider95
1 kW
I had the same problem with my BMC hub rubbing brake caliper EMV and other venders make a spacer for this , I am looking at this hub for my next up grade also you are right to start with a quality full suspense bike like the 4-banger for you E bike build . Pity the guy that use's the wall mart bikes much better to use a quality bike to start with you will be a lot happier in the end . Put the battery's as low in the frame as you can its worth the effort you found the forks not up to the job on the E bike not surprised I bet the forks even use the QR axle there's just too much flex that's why I used a Double crown fork (which I got a ton of negative feed back from others on here ) I also use a 20mm axle for sure you gonna need at least a 15mm axle .Since you don't say were you are but around here the states you can get a good used forks with 15 or 20 mm axles off E bay for less then $500
Maybe the Walmart would have been better ?
Well I found a crack today I noticed a slight clicking a few weeks back and found it today same area as the pic below. Bangers were notorious for breaking there. Also the arm has a hair line crack. Soo..... I'll keep any eye on it for now, dare say it will get worse then break. I'll get good money for spares on eBay so me thinks next bike will be something tough and built for multi kW builds a flux maybe
Well I found a crack today
I noticed a slight clicking a few weeks back and found it today same area as the pic below. Bangers were notorious for breaking there. Also the arm has a hair line crack. Soo..... I'll keep any eye on it for now, dare say it will get worse then break. I'll get good money for spares on eBay so me thinks next bike will be something tough and built for multi kW builds a flux maybe
TotalConfusion
100 W
Jestronix said:Yeh torque arms in are the books she's all good message is clear
Im currently only running a 40 Amp Grin controller but for my 5T im looking at the Adaptto mini e or a 60 amp controller from Russia as i need a small form factor for my current bike to fit but i intend on putting the 5T into either a Flux frame or a Vector as you can fit 40Ah into the Vector at 100 volts.
This bike wont be finished for 6 to 12 months as im about to move house and a few other things need paying for 1st.
The mini e will certainly pack up to 6kw max, now 10kw ? So they must be more than 60amps now. This controller from sam is a little beauty for the price, pushing 4.4kw out of it, has blue tooth so u can adjust settings out in the field. U could mount the phone so u can watch volts , amps, controller temp, errors etc. $160 aud is reasonable considering post to Russia and back could be similar for the mini-e. But it ain't no mini e . And I could handle the quiet sine wave power.
. And I could handle the quiet sine wave power.
markz
100 TW
$160 is cheap, they sell for more like $410 to $690, very nice to have if you have the money to spend on it.
http://adaptto.envolt.se/Products/Controllers/
I'd be tempted on my MXUS 4T V2 to have an adaptto controller.
http://adaptto.envolt.se/Products/Controllers/
I'd be tempted on my MXUS 4T V2 to have an adaptto controller.
DAND214
10 MW
http://kinaye-motorsports.myshopify.com/products/12t-x-1-375-freewheel Teslanv saya it will fit the Mxus he sells.Stevil_Knevil said:Jestronix said:Elbow grease this weekend along with attaching the rear disc
Very cool and collectable bike!
Ineresting factoid; Mert Lawwill (watch "On Any Sunday") designed the 4 Banger linkage.
Sorry to say, that 12T freewheel ain't gonna fit :?
16T is the tallest single speed freewheel that will thread onto your motor.
Soldier on..
Dan
DAND214 said:http://kinaye-motorsports.myshopify.com/products/12t-x-1-375-freewheel Teslanv saya it will fit the Mxus he sells.Stevil_Knevil said:Jestronix said:Elbow grease this weekend along with attaching the rear disc
Very cool and collectable bike!
Ineresting factoid; Mert Lawwill (watch "On Any Sunday") designed the 4 Banger linkage.
Sorry to say, that 12T freewheel ain't gonna fit :?
16T is the tallest single speed freewheel that will thread onto your motor.
Soldier on..
Dan
Yep fits perfectly
love to see a two or 3 gear version.
markz
100 TW
What kind of rear derailleur and shifter would you use for a 2 or 3 gears on the rear?
With torque arms on the mind and all sorts of things around the house looking like torque arms, I discovered this in the shed. My trusty old pliers , a little surface rust , but look at the shape
With a little bit of work I grabbed the drill and hacksaw.
And made this, it's a. Dry very tight fit, only just fits on.
And the thickness is about the same as my drop outs but this is hard steel.
I'll add another clamp tomorrow and of course get to work on the other side
With a little bit of work I grabbed the drill and hacksaw.
And made this, it's a. Dry very tight fit, only just fits on.
And the thickness is about the same as my drop outs but this is hard steel.
I'll add another clamp tomorrow and of course get to work on the other side
Racer_X
1 kW
Jestronix said:With torque arms on the mind and all sorts of things around the house looking like torque arms, I discovered this in the shed. My trusty old pliers , a little surface rust , but look at the shape
I'll add another clamp tomorrow and of course get to work on the other side
The torque arm should be between the frame and the nut. It is not that secure to have it on outside like that, you could add another nut on the outside of the torque arm if you fixed it like that becuase it did not quite fit because of the frame indents.
