My solar-assisted custom tricycle FOLLIES

I finally got a look at the rear spring/shocks and there ain't no shocks, only those tubes and the spring. Some day when you have nothing better to do you might consider changing them for some actual oil or oil/nitrogent filled ones. I think air shocks are too expensive. I'll bet that improves the ride! Just my nosey self butting in. :?
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
I finally got a look at the rear spring/shocks and there ain't no shocks, only those tubes and the spring. Some day when you have nothing better to do you might consider changing them for some actual oil or oil/nitrogent filled ones. I think air shocks are too expensive. I'll bet that improves the ride! Just my nosey self butting in. :?
otherDoc
lol
whether they be springs or shock absorbers (advertised as "sprung shock absorber") they are mounted to maintain and resist body height change (roll) from the strong lateral forces of turning, crosswinds or both, and in that my friend, they do better than (I) expected.
-The trike is surprisingly comfortable to drive under normal or extreme weather conditions

bonus: I need not wear goggles, gloves, nor heated clothing anytime during the year.
Ratt trike gets sadly neglected at times... (which is my excuse for accidentally leaving its' controller turned on and failing to notice)elkfromacar.jpgView attachment 1sumsortoffinch.jpg
edit
forgot to mention: I saw a local riding an e-bike with front/rear motors zoom by... he wasn't pedaling.
now I know why my sister claims people say I "zoom by" even though I rarely go faster than 15 mph... I do pedal unless coasting
 
I've never had an issue using throttles with 36V indicators with 48V batteries (close to 60V). Ya know, the type that are integral to most thumb and twist throttles.

I don't rely on the indicator to indicate anything other than the controller's turned on, so this works well for me.
However, I needed new throttles for my new (to me) trike and I opted for throttles with no indicators.
Lucky for me I'm embarking on building two battery packs* using 4s batteries and my "chosen" 12V (with led indicator ) switch
I intend to insert the switch between the first series battery (4s=16V) and the last two series (8s=32V) as it makes -0- difference where the switch is. It still functions as an battery pack off/on switch.

Battery "on" dilemma solved.
universal throttle again.jpg

* The pack I might have ruined came back to life and is perfectly balanced again. I've been letting them idle to check their self-discharge rate but so far so good.
 
"that" battery is still stable @41.3V (wut I charged it up 2}}}
*knock knock knocks da wood*

as per usual IMma jus gonna talk about some 'other' threads in this thread so here we go-

A note to any of you who has never ridden a dual-motored bike/trike.
You have no idea hw much better two motors are over one motor, even if that 'one' motor is superduperpowerfulsteriodamped.
(like my magic pie motors are supposed to be... and until I re-programmed them for -less- stuff, I suppose they are.)

Elsewhere in this thread I've talked about the advantages of dual motor/batteries, mainly as a redundancy for always being able to get home under power.
But now let's discuss the magicpony fairy dust that happens hwen you power up a hill with two completely different motors
because: I just finished some tests on my return from the beach. I chose the least steep hill (starts at 8% grade increasing to 10% the last 200 feet)
from a dead stop on the last 200' (10% grade) I was riding MPPM enclosed trike.
It uses:
1- a mid-powered gear motor that drives the input of the rear differential @ 30V ---top speed 11 mph w/30A controller
2 -a front hub Ampedbikes (RIP) MXUS-built geared 250W hub motor mounted in a 16" rim @ 56V ---top speed 17 mph w/23A controller
Results:
using rear motor only- 5mph
using front motor only- 10mph (hello, massive torque)
using both motors- 15mph (lol WUT)
-this is because (not gonna explain, you figure it out) *****magic*****
no pictures as I was carrying my latest Nikon camera packed in its' case.

Speaking of Nikon 610
Using any mode other than 'normal' i.e continous modes, auto bracketing etc; uses 1280 x whatever resolution.
I might as well be shooting in 'movie' mode in loo of continuous modes because cropping a picture from 1280 results in a crap picture.
Plus I'm not convinced the camera isn't using sum digital magics to get it's so-called 60x 'optical' zoom
---sure doesn't look 'optical-only'171x141 crop.jpgView attachment 4full resolution 60x zoom.jpgcropped from full resolution.jpginto the sun.jpginto the sun4.jpg
but, like any camera (or e-bike)... it has its' good points
 
The "good" pictures are great. My Canon does OK at 12X optical but not like the ones you took. I just need to remember to open the lense cover "manually" as it sticks half way open. Annoying but not terminal.
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
The "good" pictures are great. My Canon does OK at 12X optical but not like the ones you took. I just need to remember to open the lense cover "manually" as it sticks half way open. Annoying but not terminal.
otherDoc
thanks!
I really like the last two pictures esp. the one which looks more like a desert than an ocean.
I used no filters or effects for those shots, other than resolution.

Mr dunderhead did his thing again... this time momentarily reversing the polarity to the rear view camera/monitor. :shock:
...the monitor survived. RIP tiny cam.blownup camera.jpg
Replaced with larger (but still tiny) cam.View attachment 3
I've yet to mount dashcams.slowly we mount.jpgaxle champs.jpgslowly we rust.jpg
 
OLD CHALLENGE MADE NEW
..because, old.

My mesh seat back came a bit unraveled.
I doubt I've threaded a needle for a decade. There ya go.
8-diopter lighted lens to the rescue... although my hands attempted to shake everything apart, I had success (eventually) with a small, curved upholstery needle and a smaller fine needle using medium weight nylon thread.
For reasons, Nylon thread is the only thread I use. And Nylon mesh just loves Nylon thread. But I digress...
The operation was successful but I'm unsure how long the patient will survive.threading a needle.jpgnylon thread is the only thread I has.jpgView attachment 1


...Sun supplies a "slip-over" mesh back I may have to invest in. :?
 
Wow! A little more sewing practice and you can compete with those 3rd world women making t-shirts. :shock: I do like those clamped dropouts.
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
Wow! A little more sewing practice and you can compete with those 3rd world women making t-shirts. :shock: I do like those clamped dropouts.
otherDoc
:lol: "one size fitz none" tee-shirt company.

I doing similar dropouts for my *new* trike.I don't trust it's current setup. Should be done in the next week or so.
(I am so not in a hurry)
 
The seat back fix is still fixed, but IMMA just leaving this here for future reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Sun-Replacement-Mesh-Seat-Koolback/dp/B0040DNJ9W

It's been noted this also fits bikeE seats.

Haven't finished the mods on trike3 yet.
My current project is modifying a hand truck into a (safer) trailer for transporting propane tanks to refill.
For the last year or so I've just bungied the handle of the hand truck to a basket... sometimes with hilarious mishaps (lucky for me, not dangerously hilarious mishaps)
 
Are both the upper and lower bracket welded. I have a grandkid who is now a welder for a shipyard and I am giving this type of torque arm some thought. My welding is dangerous.
otherDoc
 
amberwolf said:
See, now them's some TORK ARMS. :)
this is a torquearm.jpgdropout extensions with axle clamps.jpg




docnjoj said:
Are both the upper and lower bracket welded. I have a grandkid who is now a welder for a shipyard and I am giving this type of torque arm some thought. My welding is dangerous.
otherDoc
bottomweld.jpg

The last 'bicycle' was the first of the series of trikes I built. Back when my cadence was still over a hundred per minute.
Since then, I've had to forsake 'me' as part of a motor source. I build transportation devices shaped like a bicycle. Additional weight holds no bearing for these devices.


speaking of bearings, I herd you like bearings so I...Iputbearingsonyerbearings.jpg

modcart.jpg
this thing I rescued from the trash... possibly 70 years old, as it used an 11/16" axle.
I've been using it for propane duties.propanity.jpg

...but now I need to put a brake on this silliness


rimjob.jpg
 
Aha! You never underbuild! That is the engineers way! I think those dropouts will never break. The cart looks like it could carry large, dead bodies, rather than propane cylinders. Very fine work indeed!
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
Aha! You never underbuild! That is the engineers way! I think those dropouts will never break. The cart looks like it could carry large, dead bodies, rather than propane cylinders. Very fine work indeed!
otherDoc
...and they only cost 2x that of 'just' 2 torque arms to have fabricated*
I never wanna die because something I built failed (or seriously injured ever again)

I just happily noticed I can fit 6 of the 6s 16Ah "multistar" battery packs in my battery cases. 48V 48Ah!
...that's 48V 48Ah x 2 per trike. :mrgreen:
(with the ability to carry additional battery packs as required)

but of course they're backordered...
(playing the waiting game is always fun)

*as if I weld. heck I can hardly type anymore much less do any semi-precision stuff)))))))))) But I no longer need to use any sort of keyboard repeattttttt :lol:
 
How do you get away without typing? The programs like Dragon and Microsoft Speech make too many mistakes, and I speak quite clearly.
Back On topic, those Multistars work really well. I have 16 ah 44 volts and they are perfectly balanced. Of course I treat them like hand grenades and balance charge them every time to 4.10.
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
How do you get away without typing? The programs like Dragon and Microsoft Speech make too many mistakes, and I speak quite clearly.
LOL I don't speak clearly and those programs make probably the same mistakes. I don't use them.
I spent many years writing low level code without the use of good debuggery and have a prettty good repertoire of two-fingered typing sk7Z
docnjoj said:
Back On topic, those Multistars work really well. I have 16 ah 44 volts and they are perfectly balanced. Of course I treat them like hand grenades and balance charge them every time to 4.10.
otherDoc
I currently using 3 year-old Turnegy 20C packs consisting of over 250 cells. Most are in 5S configuration with the rest in 3S and 4S. My battery case (DVD carriers really) can just hold a kWs' worth. i don't particularly treat them all that well but I regularly check their balance state.
My oldest set, with an estimated +4000 'partial' cycles is finally loosing capacity (I do voltage checks after riding particular routes) But it would be nice for me to be able to travel 100 miles on one set of batteries without having to change cases midpoint (or carry more than just one spare)
Still flush from devolving myself from a car, I might as well use the funds for something somewhat more beneficial over restaurants (my vice) so I'm thinking one set (2 battery packs) for RATT* trike
...and yup, 12S configuration 2S3P of multistar 6S16A--- more than doubling the packs' current capacity (wurd play there lol)
grocery outlet.jpgView attachment 1canopy san.jpgas I was leaving the store I saw SOG** getting off this thing
Looks to be touring the mighty 101 ...we didn't exchange words

*RATT trike has that wacky front end work- super comfortable fit for me for rides over 20 miles but I'm thinking maybe I'll first change MPPM velo instead RATT = RagatteeAssTackyTrike
**SOG = sum old guy
 
That is like my wife's trike, Sun USX with that fake shock absorber in the middle. Those torque arms look OK, and the canopy might work but is a lot of drag. Still maybe better than skin cancer.
Cool that there are other E-bike riders in your area.
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
That is like my wife's trike, Sun USX with that fake shock absorber in the middle. Those torque arms look OK, and the canopy might work but is a lot of drag. Still maybe better than skin cancer.
I thought of you wife's trike when I saw this Sun. The cancer-thingy is why I prefer using the MPPM velo. (MyPersonalPopeMobile velo)
docnjoj said:
Cool that there are other E-bike riders in your area.
otherDoc
He's not local... he carefully locked up his bike and us locals don't bother :).
Last year I counted about 2 dozen 'local' e-bikes. This year I lost count. Apparently our little community of ~10k peoples has embraced the e-bike/trike transportation alternative better than most.
 
Down here in L.A. (Lower Alabama) I have only seen two other electrics in the last 3-4 years. Lots of recumbents, both two and 3 wheelers.
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
Down here in L.A. (Lower Alabama) I have only seen two other electrics in the last 3-4 years. Lots of recumbents, both two and 3 wheelers.
otherDoc
AFAIK two-wheeled recumbents NEED a motor to ride from a stop.
Never could get the hang of one, so I stuck with diamond-framed safety bikes -not that they're safe, just easier for me to slowly tour as I'm apt to do on occasion (most the time, actually)

**********************
new trike 3 setback-
the 1970's 3-speed hub w/coaster brake failed. (wonders why lol)
Ordered new one. ouch ~$123 "kit" with parts I donna need but parts I dodo.(double sprocket)
Methinks I'm getting lazy aboot this stuffs... (read in canadian accent)

Should have just replaced the whole thing; a jackshaft with a 13-tooth freewheel and 25-tooth drive sprocket but whatever.
Also would have saved me changing out the chainring from a 32-tooth to a 52-tooth ...but i intended to change the crank to a 140mm anyways. -and I has a couple 52-thoofers laying aboot (again with that canadian accent)
-my fav- one piece cranks are heavy but cheap. er, inexpensive. And if I wanna save weight I just replace the 1.5kg 14 gauge xboxhuge steel chain guard with irrigation tubing.
or, as one RATT trike, nothing for chain protection. I never wear clothing that might get caught in a chain. (adolescent learning experience remembrance).

Shirley built stuff tough and heavy back then... although I'll likely replace the rear wheels with spoke versions (don't trust 40-year old plastic for sum reasons)
hm-mm 140 spoke versions Maybelle
 
45 year old trikes kinda need care usually. Coaster brakes? You do have some other brakes too, right?
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
45 year old trikes kinda need care usually. Coaster brakes? You do have some other brakes too, right?
otherDoc
less see:
Regen front motor- check (the Magic Pie does 99% of the braking on RATT trike)
Rim brake with koolstop pads on front- check

There is no way to add anything other than a coaster brake for the rear without replacing the whole rear end (or MAJOR modifications)
Plus I'd forgotten just how much I LIKES COASTER BRAKES.
There- I said it. Not even embarrassed.
...and I happen to dislike disc brakes for many reasons. (constant maintenance for one)
I feel as if disc brakes were introduced to keep bike shops busy and productive.
...but mostly busy.
V-brakes, on the other hand are my most-favored rim brake. The front forks on both RATT trike and Trike 3 are too w i d e to support v-brake use, hence, old-school side-pulls.
 
Back
Top