New Bafang Crank-Drives
- Thread starter d8veh
- Start date
tahustvedt
10 kW
I got my BBS-01 yesterday. I quickly installed it on my commuter for testing and made a harness to wire together three different 6 Ah lipo packs. I did not use the brake levers or thumb throttle, as They can't be installed on my bars. It worked fine right away and I made a few laps in the neighbourhood to test it out. I set the wheel size to 700c first, but that caused the speedo to be way off. The 26" setting is very close to the Garmin Edge 510 in speed, so I'm going with that. Running with a 25 km/h limit to stay as close to legal as possible. I'll bring it to work tomorrow if it's not raining to let some people try it out.
Currently it's all just temporarilly installed for testing, so it's pretty cluttered. I ordered some new lipos which will fit well in a custom bamboo battery container I plan to make for the down tube. It will hide the cables as well.
Currently it's all just temporarilly installed for testing, so it's pretty cluttered. I ordered some new lipos which will fit well in a custom bamboo battery container I plan to make for the down tube. It will hide the cables as well.
Attachments
tomjasz
1 GW
Nice ride! Great color scheme.
shanman3us
100 mW
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2011
- Messages
- 44
Does anyone have a link for the proper tool to tighten the second (outside) lock ring on the bottom bracket? I had the tool for the first (inner) lock ring that basically pressure holds the motor in place but the outside one is not compatible and I don't want to scratch it all up.
Shanman3us
Shanman3us
shanman3us
100 mW
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2011
- Messages
- 44
tahustvedt said:
I don't know how to say this but you've got a HUGE bug in your install !!
tahustvedt
10 kW
Hehe. That's my bell. The shell opens like wings, which looks pretty hilarious.
I went for a little test ride just now. 28,9 km long and 324 m elevation. I used 4.1 Ah of 6 Ah available. I rode at assist level 3 and tried my best to apply as little power as possible myself, and just kept the crank spinning to let the motor do all the work, as a worst case range scenario. The peak power was ~560 W according too my Watts Up. Continous power seemed to be at 230-250 W when I was in a steady climb.
I went for a little test ride just now. 28,9 km long and 324 m elevation. I used 4.1 Ah of 6 Ah available. I rode at assist level 3 and tried my best to apply as little power as possible myself, and just kept the crank spinning to let the motor do all the work, as a worst case range scenario. The peak power was ~560 W according too my Watts Up. Continous power seemed to be at 230-250 W when I was in a steady climb.
shanman3us
100 mW
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2011
- Messages
- 44
tahustvedt said:
OK, that's great info. However, just to clarify, you have a BBS01 but what motor wattage? What voltage for your batteries (36v or 48v)? What is your 'level 3' setting programmed as? I'm trying to get a handle on what range I have available on my BBS02 500w 48v system. My 'level 3' setting is at 30 (limit current %) - 100 (limit speed %). I have mainly been using my 'level 1' setting which is currently at 10 - 100. This is according to the General settings of page 1 of the programming software.
Thanks.
tahustvedt
10 kW
It's the 250 W motor and 36 V battery. I have not changed the advanced settings for assist. Advanced setting was set to 3 as default when I looked. I have three assist levels, plus "zero" assist. I have the C961 display unit.
tomjasz
1 GW
shanman3us said:
sculptingman commented he got a tool from Lectric cycles, email sent, I'll post if I get an answer.
sculptingman said:
AND THE ANSWER IS, We have the tools for both the new and old style lock nuts (new inner ones are slightly different OD), both are socket sets. We only provide them to dealers at this point because of the limited quantities we have and the cost.
Kepler
10 MW
shanman3us said:
I use this this one. http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/shimano-bottom-bracket-wrench-with-handle-remover/YC-29BB-2A
Its just a standard Shimano Bottom Bracket tool.
shanman3us
100 mW
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2011
- Messages
- 44
tahustvedt said:
OK. Well that sure seems to be good use of the power. It also appears to be quite a clime and then to only use 4 AH. I'll be interested to know what the settings are if you ever decide to make/purchase the programming cable to at least see the programming that is there. Being able to make those kind of changes can make a big difference and has made my riding experience change from fair to excellent.
Shanman3us
shanman3us
100 mW
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2011
- Messages
- 44
Kepler said:
Excellent. Thanks very much Kepler
Shanman3us
tahustvedt
10 kW
shanman3us said:
I'm a light rider (65 kg / 143 lbs), which probably helped keep consumption low.
mclark999
100 W
CdnE90 said:
I ordered from them a couple of days ago. Got an email from them last night saying they will ship the drive next week.
tomjasz
1 GW
Kepler said:
Thank you, again! $15.99 free shipping eBay.
tomjasz
1 GW
I have to wonder why some vendors make things so mysterious. This is the third time I asked a question and got mysterious answers. Like the 73 mm BB "kit". Longer screws and stacked washers. 
Wouldn't it serve your customer, who just paid a premium to do business with you, better by giving a straight answer? I thank deity for the members here who share it forward.
Wouldn't it serve your customer, who just paid a premium to do business with you, better by giving a straight answer? I thank deity for the members here who share it forward.tahustvedt
10 kW
Aushiker said:
Yes, I already have two of those, and will wrap them under the bar tape if I install bullhorn bars.
tahustvedt
10 kW
I just mounted the display unit to an old front reflex mount I had in a drawer using a little aluminum bracket I made up real quick. The display now sits right in front of the bars, and it looks much more streamlined. I removed the Garmin-mount. The keypad for the display is secured with a couple of zip ties which are fastened to the bottom with two screws.
Sorry for the disastrous photo of the underside.
Oh, and I also played with the assist settings in the advanced menu. I set the assist choices to 9, rebooted and tried it. It was able to pull harder in hills with assist set to 9. I measured 450 W in steep sections.
Sorry for the disastrous photo of the underside.
Oh, and I also played with the assist settings in the advanced menu. I set the assist choices to 9, rebooted and tried it. It was able to pull harder in hills with assist set to 9. I measured 450 W in steep sections.
Attachments
tahustvedt
10 kW
I figured out a way to at least get the front brake to stop the motor using one of the in line sensors. I cut the connector off one of the Bafang brakes and soldered it to this cable sensor at the appropriate length I needed, and installed the sensor below the front cable hanger. It's the only place it can be installed on the front brake. If I am to install one on the rear brake as well I'll splice the cable housing by the head tube and install it there, and then splice the wires with the front sensor wires, but it's not really necessary. The rest of the cables are tidied up a little as well, and I removed the front shifter cable. I'll remove the front derailleur once I have some sort of discreet chain derailment device installed.
Attachments
teslanv
1 MW
Latest update from Cellman on the new 25A controller-750W Kits:
For the record, my November '13 drive has been working fabulously (programmed to 25A) ever since I tore it down to repair the blown o-ring. While it does cut out momentarily if I run it WOT for extended periods, I generally realize that a moderate PAS setting is sufficient for a comfortable commute.
For those of you on the fence, trying to decide, I will tell you that I have no problems recommending this drive. I believe it is an ideal solution if you are looking for a quiet, light, agile and very stealthy commuter ride. No one knows my bike is electric until I tell them, or they see me powering up a steep hill without pedaling. If you clown-pedal, and ride responsibly, I can almost guarantee you will not get noticed by the cops or anyone else on the bike trails.
For the record, my November '13 drive has been working fabulously (programmed to 25A) ever since I tore it down to repair the blown o-ring. While it does cut out momentarily if I run it WOT for extended periods, I generally realize that a moderate PAS setting is sufficient for a comfortable commute.
For those of you on the fence, trying to decide, I will tell you that I have no problems recommending this drive. I believe it is an ideal solution if you are looking for a quiet, light, agile and very stealthy commuter ride. No one knows my bike is electric until I tell them, or they see me powering up a steep hill without pedaling. If you clown-pedal, and ride responsibly, I can almost guarantee you will not get noticed by the cops or anyone else on the bike trails.
snowranger
10 kW
TNA Battery says they have 750W in stock. I asked whether they were the 9-fet versions, and they said yes.
tahustvedt
10 kW
What is the difference between the 250 W BBS01 and the 350 W version? I just got the programming cable working. Wondering if I should try 18 A.
rjsimmo
1 µW
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2014
- Messages
- 4
Mid drive vs Rear Hub
DIY vs off the Shelf
Australia
Need Help !
Hi everyone I'm new to this discussion.
I've gone through this thread after looking at a number of things and frankly need some help if you guys don't mind ....(I am in Perth Western Australia by the way).
MY PAST :
I bought a bike from Dillinger 1000w rear hub motor (called the "Outlaw" for obvious reasons !) 42khm without pedaling. 60 with.
http://dillenger.com.au/shop/electric-bikes/outlaw-electric-mountain-bike/
It was great fun but the electrical system / wiring was very poorly done and kept failing. I spent ages trying to fix it myself with mixed results as I am neither patient nor technically minded.
The general components for the bike and motor seemed really decent and robust but the failing of the electrical prob really got on my nerves.
Anyway I returned the bike and hopefully will get my money back (2,000AUD)
Battery was contained in the lower shaft of the bike and it rode pretty well but was a bit ugly and a heavy bike.
Since I sent it back to the seller (who just rebadges Chinese bikes i think and does not really provide good service in Western Australia).
PRESENT :
I need something reliable to get me to work without sweating if I don't want to and for fun around the place. That for me means 45Kmh bike and about 35-40 Km of range with pedaling but pushing the bike quite a lot as i still like to ride. Just faster !
Also I like the throttle to give me flexibility but its not essential.)
Mid drives look really simple especially for any changes to front and rear if you want to.
I'm therefore looking around for something a bit more reliable (I rode a SPECIALIZED TURBO which was great except it cuts out at 26Kmh. I need 45kmh min with ability to push it up to 60 but not more).
I'd spend $7,000 on the turbo otherwise or have been thinking of the Grace MXII which is a mid drive bosch but again these are underpowered for what I want it for which is urban commute and thrashing around but not fully off road.
Also no warranty in Australia.
I ride a Focus belt drive with rear gear hub (non electric) and love the way that rides. It looks simple and neat and clean which is why I admired Kepler's carbon frame friction drive (that eventually became a rear hubber commuter) actually.
FUTURE :
I was hoping to get some advice after reading about the Bafang 8FUN 750W motor but am apprehensive as a kit. I'd like more power or easier top speed.
I was thinking of mounting it to a SPECIALIZED 29er with single speed as it is a robust bike and light and I could then mount onto this and have a chunky look which i am ok with rather than the stealthy look which i would prefer in a way but the turbo is the only bike with a decent battery set up for this look at the moment as I see it.
OK down to my questions :
1. Is there anyone in Australia that can assist to get something like this or advise on the way to go given my needs ?
a) to delimit the top speed of the turbo or (still it is 7K !!) or
b) sell me a reliable set up using the Bafang 8FUN 750W or reliable other system.
(I'd prefer a belt and hub gears instead of cascading but would settle for single speed given the motor would assist me).
I don't mind spending money as long as i get value for it but also want it to be reliable and to be able to replace parts and get service easily.
From what I read I might be dreaming because mid -drives seem to work best on geared bikes for a start and not efficient at high speeds.
Secondly e-bikes seem to be fraught with problems and you need to wear these if you want to get an e-bike.
2. Can anyone recommend a really good 29er doner bike (I like fixed forks at the front and a little more air in the tyres is ok but I want slicks. I fitted hookworms to the outlaw and that made the ride much better).
Sorry if this is taking this whole discussion in a different direction but if anyone would care to respond it would really be appreciated.
If this belongs on another board please do let me know.
cheers
DIY vs off the Shelf
Australia
Need Help !
Hi everyone I'm new to this discussion.
I've gone through this thread after looking at a number of things and frankly need some help if you guys don't mind ....(I am in Perth Western Australia by the way).
MY PAST :
I bought a bike from Dillinger 1000w rear hub motor (called the "Outlaw" for obvious reasons !) 42khm without pedaling. 60 with.
http://dillenger.com.au/shop/electric-bikes/outlaw-electric-mountain-bike/
It was great fun but the electrical system / wiring was very poorly done and kept failing. I spent ages trying to fix it myself with mixed results as I am neither patient nor technically minded.
The general components for the bike and motor seemed really decent and robust but the failing of the electrical prob really got on my nerves.
Anyway I returned the bike and hopefully will get my money back (2,000AUD)
Battery was contained in the lower shaft of the bike and it rode pretty well but was a bit ugly and a heavy bike.
Since I sent it back to the seller (who just rebadges Chinese bikes i think and does not really provide good service in Western Australia).
PRESENT :
I need something reliable to get me to work without sweating if I don't want to and for fun around the place. That for me means 45Kmh bike and about 35-40 Km of range with pedaling but pushing the bike quite a lot as i still like to ride. Just faster !
Also I like the throttle to give me flexibility but its not essential.)
Mid drives look really simple especially for any changes to front and rear if you want to.
I'm therefore looking around for something a bit more reliable (I rode a SPECIALIZED TURBO which was great except it cuts out at 26Kmh. I need 45kmh min with ability to push it up to 60 but not more).
I'd spend $7,000 on the turbo otherwise or have been thinking of the Grace MXII which is a mid drive bosch but again these are underpowered for what I want it for which is urban commute and thrashing around but not fully off road.
Also no warranty in Australia.
I ride a Focus belt drive with rear gear hub (non electric) and love the way that rides. It looks simple and neat and clean which is why I admired Kepler's carbon frame friction drive (that eventually became a rear hubber commuter) actually.
FUTURE :
I was hoping to get some advice after reading about the Bafang 8FUN 750W motor but am apprehensive as a kit. I'd like more power or easier top speed.
I was thinking of mounting it to a SPECIALIZED 29er with single speed as it is a robust bike and light and I could then mount onto this and have a chunky look which i am ok with rather than the stealthy look which i would prefer in a way but the turbo is the only bike with a decent battery set up for this look at the moment as I see it.
OK down to my questions :
1. Is there anyone in Australia that can assist to get something like this or advise on the way to go given my needs ?
a) to delimit the top speed of the turbo or (still it is 7K !!) or
b) sell me a reliable set up using the Bafang 8FUN 750W or reliable other system.
(I'd prefer a belt and hub gears instead of cascading but would settle for single speed given the motor would assist me).
I don't mind spending money as long as i get value for it but also want it to be reliable and to be able to replace parts and get service easily.
From what I read I might be dreaming because mid -drives seem to work best on geared bikes for a start and not efficient at high speeds.
Secondly e-bikes seem to be fraught with problems and you need to wear these if you want to get an e-bike.
2. Can anyone recommend a really good 29er doner bike (I like fixed forks at the front and a little more air in the tyres is ok but I want slicks. I fitted hookworms to the outlaw and that made the ride much better).
Sorry if this is taking this whole discussion in a different direction but if anyone would care to respond it would really be appreciated.
If this belongs on another board please do let me know.
cheers
Similar threads
