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New Bafang Crank-Drives

If you use Google to search the various vendors, you will see which ones have more customer complaints. Here's how you do it:

Go to Google and type in "site:endless-sphere.com bms battery customer service"

Paul at em3ev.com has worked hard to get all of his orders right the first time, and on the few occasions that there was an issue, to best of my knowledge, he has satisfied every customer problem that came up.
 
Ken Taylor said:
Tom L said:
You will also need a 5 pin connector, like the one on the display (http://i.imgur.com/7DaWbi3.jpg)...Ideally we need to find a source of the 5 pin connectors. I've had no luck so far.
They look like DIN 45322 connectors available from http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Connector-DELTRON-DIN-5-Pin-60-240-Degree-Male-Line-Plug-610-0510-02139-/201051338500?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Audio_Cable_Terminations&hash=item2ecf97f704&_uhb=1 . As a further check the distance between pin centre's should be 7.0 mm. Complete DIN 45322 data at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_connector

Unfortunately no. The whole thing is 6mm in diameter.

Still waiting on parts to try the serial connection.
 
aniken said:
Has anyone had problems with the pedal crank kind of slipping when applying torque (pedalling) whilst the motor is running! I have done about 1000 miles on a 250W version paired with a road bike but I think the one way ratchet system or whatever is inside is beginning to fail! Seems a bit random at the minute as if one area/tooth/pawl or whatever is worn or weak as the pedal will drop suddenly about 2" at the point where you might be applying max. pressure, then sort of catch again. This is accompanied with a worrying 'clak-clak-clak- noise! Whole event lasts about a second each time. Not fully broken yet but could this be the start of something bad I wonder. To be honest the little gem is almost too good to be true so I am not surprised if it wears out quick.


Sounds like a sprag bearing is out of spec or starting to wear out. As long as the shaft stays round and you don't let it get too bad, it should be a simple parts change. They will not last forever.
 
aniken,

Kepler could verify this, but I think the crank freewheel has three pawls.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=126780

The motor freewheel is of the one-way needle bearing type.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=126772

If nothing is coming loose (check cranks for side-to-side rocking) pull it apart to see if pawls or springs are broken, or if racket teeth are worn. With luck, all is fine,and re-lubing the freewheel pawls will get it working again.
 
kampua said:
I come across some recommendations here for Paul at em3ev.com for having good customer service. But exactly how good is his customer service? Is it worth paying 34% extra for? (em3ev - $550, BMSBattery - $409)
Here's my take on this - Paul's quality is great, based on whatever I bought from him on a few occasions. My only minor gripe is the communication, as the time it takes for him / his staff to respond is anywhere from 10-15 hours to 2-3 business days (but I guess this is mostly due to time zones, and/or his business doing well). Other than that, everything I've ever asked him about was answered in a clear and concise manner. His prices are fair, he's willing to work with you on any customizations you want, and when it comes to invoicing, everything is clearly explained in the email in tabbed format.
 
I agree with Rollodo. I have had good experiences with Paul. I don't think 2-3 days is unreasonable for the communication response time. All of my inquiries have been responded to within 48 hours, and he is quite knowledgeable and helpful.
 
teslanv said:
I agree with Rollodo. I have had good experiences with Paul. I don't think 2-3 days is unreasonable for the communication response time. All of my inquiries have been responded to within 48 hours, and he is quite knowledgeable and helpful.

+1. When I made a mistake on my order, it took just one quick email to Paul, and everything was fine. He did take about 2-3 days to reply, so it was a bit nail-biting given the amount I'd spent! Shouldn't have worried, though :)
 
+1 on Paul. His customer service is excellent and well worth the $$.
 
Melbourne said:
I was getting clicking noise but if i have not fixed it, it would have looked like your(?)..

Hi Melbourne and Cellbalance,

I suspect that I may be experiencing the same 'clicking' noises. Can either of you go into a little more detail about the symptoms you both experienced please?

And Melbourne - exactly what was the 'fix' you mention above please.

I'm getting an occasional 'click' accompanied by a real jolt that runs through the drive train and pedals. Mainly occurs when I'm accelerating under both pedelec and throttle. A friend has suggested it may just be a skipping chain, but as I haven't changed chain ring, sprockets or chain I doubt this is the case (it didn't 'skip' prior to the BBSxx installation).

Any info appreciated,

Savvas.
 
samsavvas said:
Melbourne said:
I was getting clicking noise but if i have not fixed it, it would have looked like your(?)..

Hi Melbourne and Cellbalance,

I suspect that I may be experiencing the same 'clicking' noises. Can either of you go into a little more detail about the symptoms you both experienced please?

And Melbourne - exactly what was the 'fix' you mention above please.

I'm getting an occasional 'click' accompanied by a real jolt that runs through the drive train and pedals. Mainly occurs when I'm accelerating under both pedelec and throttle. A friend has suggested it may just be a skipping chain, but as I haven't changed chain ring, sprockets or chain I doubt this is the case (it didn't 'skip' prior to the BBSxx installation).

Any info appreciated,

Savvas.

My "fix" is not ideal/correct fix but fixed the "click" problem when the motor is engaged/running. Based on Kepler, the ends of the rotor is worn.... i fixed it by applying both ends of the rotor into moly-grease and clicking noise disappeared. You better speak kepler...as i clueless with how the finer details of how the motor works.

You need to remove the motor from bike and engaged the motor and see whether the noise is from the motor.
 
Damn. Replacement display did not cure my "error 30" problem. This means there's a problem with the controller serial port. :(

I need a new controller. A part that is not available as a spare. Not having PAS level control on the go is really annoying.

I suppose I could take it apart and dig out the potting compound to have a look this weekend.
 
Tom L said:
Damn. Replacement display did not cure my "error 30" problem. This means there's a problem with the controller serial port. :(

I need a new controller. A part that is not available as a spare. Not having PAS level control on the go is really annoying.

I suppose I could take it apart and dig out the potting compound to have a look this weekend.


Please post some high resolution pictures if you do that where you can see what is written on the chips :)
 
Would it be a worthwhile exercise to splice-in three additional connectors to the 3 motor phase wires, so that if some future controller issue comes up, you can simply plug-in an external sensorless 6-FET controller?
 
Probably, sorry. lcrewse mentioned he had improved the power level spread of the PAS with new programming, which my new controller will come with and this is all I wanted to fix. Also I don't want to break another one.

spinningmagnets said:
Would it be a worthwhile exercise to splice-in three additional connectors to the 3 motor phase wires, so that if some future controller issue comes up, you can simply plug-in an external sensorless 6-FET controller?

I'd rather not. It's three more loss points, three more connections that could vibrate loose. Plus I don't have an external controller here so it would take a while to ship one to me. Time I can use to strip the motor.

My plan B was to fit a small 6FET external controller and see if I could use the PAS sensor with the CA3. Fortunately I wont have to do that.

I'm still using the motor. I can set the PAS level before the error times out the display. I usually set it to PAS2 (of 5) and use the throttle for short bursts of power if I need it. As lcrewse has programmed the throttle to be full power in all PAS modes. It's not ideal but it will do until I can repair it.
 
kampua said:
I come across some recommendations here for Paul at em3ev.com for having good customer service. But exactly how good is his customer service? Is it worth paying 34% extra for? (em3ev - $550, BMSBattery - $409)



Absolutely. Paul is into ebikes and offering the best service he can. BMS battery often substitutes parts, holds orders without informing the customer why, and is generally hard to work with. I've order a specific hub from BMS and gotten a completely different one in the mail which didn't meet the requirements.


Paul speaks english, makes life much easier.
 
I'm not sure the tooth in that one will fit. This is the one I use http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/bbb-multihook-bracket-tool-btl24/rp-prod60753
 
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