new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

[electric_nz]

Here is my Cyclone 3000 using the GNG brackets. no before pic but it is a "parts bike" with 26" downhill rims and Shimano parts.

Frame: Brand X HT-01 (73 mm bottom bracket with the GNG bracket bolted to the ISCG mount)
Battery: 14S5P Samsung INR18650-25S in a Reention case, stock Cyclone controller modified to 55A.
Motor: Cyclone 3000 stock with GNG brackets and freewheel etc.

Tried to keep cabling and cable ties to a minimum so it can pass as a factory ebike.

Initial impression: it's like driving a diesel- serious torque off the line, but low RPM. it can wheelie and if you row through the gears has some gnarly speed, but I am wondering if 72V would have been a better choice!

 

[Tommm]

Here is my Cyclone 3000 using the GNG brackets. no before pic but it is a "parts bike" with 26" downhill rims and Shimano parts.

Frame: Brand X HT-01 (73 mm bottom bracket with the GNG bracket bolted to the ISCG mount)
Battery: 14S5P Samsung INR18650-25S in a Reention case, stock Cyclone controller modified to 55A.
Motor: Cyclone 3000 stock with GNG brackets and freewheel etc.

Tried to keep cabling and cable ties to a minimum so it can pass as a factory ebike.

Initial impression: it's like driving a diesel- serious torque off the line, but low RPM. it can wheelie and if you row through the gears has some gnarly speed, but I am wondering if 72V would have been a better choice!

Cyclone comes alive at 72v

 

[HrKlev]

Has anyone tried setting up this motor as direct drive with no freewheel? Does the planetary gears take the load when it is applied the "wrong way"? I have a cyclone 3000w laying around here that I am considering putting on a small kids ATV, so no need for freewheel in that case.

 

[MarkLeeds]

I've had my cyclone for a a while now and wanted to share my experiences with throttles and controllers. I run a 20s4p 72v nominal battery pack.

- stock - loads of power but the power delivery is very jerky, the controller is large and the throttle is cheap and poorly made.

- I upgraded to a slightly more premium half throttle from luna which was slightly better in terms of build quality.

- bought a domino throttle, my understanding this is potentiometer based whereas the stock controller is designed for hall sensors so it ended up on the workshop shelf.

- bought a kelly KBS72121x which on paper looks as powerful as stock. It worked with my domino throttle. Unfortunately is is significantly less powerful than stock and the throttle response was poor. I bought the programming wire and tried speed, torque and hybrid settings - none of which were very good.

- bought a "Tiny and powerful 100A phase currect controller,36~72V 40A size 82x52x30mm weight 350g" direct from cyclone. I have wired this up to a throttle I had for an oset 24jr electric trials bike (buy from https://osetbikes.com/). This is a high quality waterproof hall sensor based throttle(i think) - as good as a domino. The power is great,the delivery is smooth and controllable and the throttle action is very nice - by far the best setup. I literally wired it up today and haven't tested it in anger - i did notice the controller got a little warm. To wire the oset throttle you need to short the throttle orange and grey wires, red throttle to red controller, black throttle to black controller, blue throttle to green controller.

.... all advice unwarranted, try at your own risk.

 

[SwampDonkey]

Hey everyone!

Im going to be using a cyclone 3000W for a go cart. I see that these are capable of reverse and most are wired for it, but it looks like mine isnt. Its supposed to be a brown wire but mine is gone. Does anyone know where its solder point on the board is? I believe its a brown and black wire labeled as "reverse".

This is going to be used on go-cart so a slow reverse is fine :thumb:

Thanks so much!

 

[Ehayoung]

Hello everyone, this is my first post. I have installed 2 cyclone 3kw on two of the same bikes found 2 almost identical builds, one for my gf and one for me. Without all of the info on this forum I would have never gotten it done as well as I did. Everything came out mounted straight after some trial and error on the first bike which is mine and the second bike, my gf's everything was close to perfect from start since I learned my lessons from the first build. I am running a 52v 20ah triangle pack from UPP batteries 14s8p, with the stock 40a controller.
I have been pushing the motor to the max on some rides but only to the max of what 52v 40a, and I have put roughly 60 miles on my build. The only thing I modified on my build was I drilled the threads out on the the bolt holes where the motor mounts attach so that I could replace the 4 bolts with 2 long bolts and a nut and lock washer. I only did this because the small short bolts on the non drive side had stripped the internal threads of their bolt holes and so could not be tightened.
Additionally on my bike I am using a 41t chainring from the 14t motor freewheel and then a 38t chainring to the cassette with a standard Shimano 8 speed cassette. I changed the chainrings because the cassette chainring that comes stock would rub the chainstay and 38t was able to be delivered in 24h. I could probably get a slightly bigger one but not by much. The 41t outer is due to chain length issues and it was the biggest chainring I could find with an odd tooth count and now I am running it without a chain tensioner. I haven't had any chain drops since the change and there is just enough slack that I can deflect the chain in all directions by maybe 1-2mm. I had he tensioner on with this current setup but the tensioner is actually out of alignment enough with the motor sprocket and chainring that with the tensioner under high torque found wheelies the chain would be thrown. On my gf bike in order to remedy the chain/ chainring situation her bike is running the 13t from sbp from the motor to 40t outer chainring, to 36t inner chainring to cassette.
Anyway to the reason I am posting: my bike has recently started to make a squeak noise coming from inside the motor housing. You obviously can't hear it at high rpm because the motor whine covers it up, but when you roll the bike backwards the squeak is pronounced. Also audible if I lift the back wheel and give the throttle at very low rpm. It is definitely not coming from either freewheel. I have taken off the chains and inspected the freewheels and heard nothing, and when I put my ear next to the motor housing it is loudest. Also with the chains off under pedal power there is no squeak so it is not the BB either. I would just like some input on what I should do to start trouble shooting and whether anyone else has had this and if it sounds like a major problem or not. I wouldnt think so but searching the forums here I haven't found anything like this, only one person saying they had squeaking with a BBS02 and they had to grease it. I thought maybe it's the gearbox but it sounds louder to be on the non drive side that the side with the gearbox, but that could also be because I can't get my ear as close to the drive side to listen.

TLDR: Cyclone 3kw is making a squeaking/chirping noise from inside motor housing; would like help and pointers for troubleshooting as well as thouhts and prognosis on how bad of a sign this is.
Thank you for all of your guys help already in the form of the amount of information on this site. Sorry for the page of info, I just wanted to include as much info that seemed pertinent to get to the solution. And if I have broken any rules or made this post in the wrong place I am sorry and I will fix it if need be.

 

[Ehayoung]

I guess this means no one has had this issue? I'm sure someone has but maybe it's not prevalent? I will open the motor case up on Sunday after work and if I find anything I will post it to this thread for anyone else that may have this issue in the future. I feel like it could be a loose magnet possibly, or a messed up bearing or something like that. The noise is not getting worse overall, it just varies even over the course of a 5 minute span of riding from being a little louder to not happening at all.
If anyone has any other ideas before Sunday morning post it here for me. Thank you guys. And again, if I should put this somewhere else please inform me.

 

[999zip999]

Contact Luna.

 

[Ehayoung]

Yes I've contacted them. I'm still waiting on response. I just don't know how much the warranty is in effect since I stripped all the threads on the motor case and put those long bolts in. I also contacted cyclone tw and Paco is the one that suggested it may be a loose magnet and to open the side cover to inspect rotor. I just mostly wanted input from the forum community on whether anybody else had a similar problem and what became of it. The sound seems to be staying consistent. Paco says that if the sound is not that bad then it isn't a big deal but I just don't like noises or problems that could leave me stranded.

 

[Ehayoung]

Btw I'm sure Luna hasn't responded only because it's the weekend. I wasnt trying to insinuate that they are ignoring the problem.

 

[Ehayoung]

So I didn't take any pictures but I did figure out what was happening. I took the motor off and took the non drive side cover off and the rotor had somehow slid alone the axle and toward the non drive side cover and so was rubbing on the ends of the windings and the hall sensor mount.

 

[minimum]

So I didn't take any pictures but I did figure out what was happening. I took the motor off and took the non drive side cover off and the rotor had somehow slid alone the axle and toward the non drive side cover and so was rubbing on the ends of the windings and the hall sensor mount.

It means that retaining ring(s) on the shaft are either missing or broken.

 

[Ehayoung]

Oh I see. I just slid it back and I have put another 150 miles on it since with no issue. If I want to replace the retaining ring where would I purchase one? Luna still hasn't responded to me initial email so I'm not sure what is going on there.

 

[zekill]

Hi all,
I must order bearings for isis BB in my 3000w kit.
Can someone have reference and numbers in this BB ?
In my mind it's three bearings but i don't have reference.

 

[Ehayoung]

I believe this should be it

http://sickbikeparts.com/bearing-for-bottom-bracket/
I think it's as many bearings as you need to make it the correct length.

 

[forcefed]

Got my cyclone installed, decided to chuck the zip tie and go for something a bit more solid, steel strapping.
Also used a 3d printed spacer that someone on here made for the cyclone that sits between the motor and frame so it doesn't gouge it.

Now onto the throttle... how do you make it so you don't pop a wheel when you throttle it when you're coasting? The slow start option is only good for starts but not during coasting, seems you need to rev match the motor to your speed and then add throttle to accelerate.

 

[john61ct]

I like that look, nicely coherent almost OEM styling!

 

[forcefed]

Thanks, i was aiming for it to look inconspicuous and not stick out. Althought that bigass motor kind of gives it away lol.

 

[john61ct]

Yes they'll see you coming

Do you present as White?

If so, just take it easy, ride like a productive citizen, not too fast, you'll be OK.

 

[Ehayoung]

I would like to know what you used to attach at that top bolt as your steel strapping? It looks great, much better than my clamp and zip tie.
In order to not pop wheelies you have to just learn the throttle. At first I had a 1k 10 turn trim pot in series with the ground of the throttle in order to get rid of the dead zone, as suggested in this thread. But I have moved on to the CA3 and a magura throttle which, with the throttle tuning options has helped significantly. But without the CA3 you will get used to it. The CA3 and the HD crank freewheel are my only upgrades. I also use the 104 spider from SBP in order to run whatever chainrings I want. I have a 45t from the motors 14t and a 41t to the cassette. I need to find some in hear sizes that are steel but the aluminum has lasted about 500 miles so far and aren't worn, and I can still flip them around. And at their cost of about $25 shipped it's not too bad.
I need to post some pictures of my bike here soon. Probably when I get home in the morning. I'm going to make the metal roller tensioner that dingus used but I will use some small ball bearings with the same bore and OD as his roller and I will wrap them in heatshrink.

 

[forcefed]

I would like to know what you used to attach at that top bolt as your steel strapping? It looks great, much better than my clamp and zip tie.

You mean that spacer on top of the bolt under the frame? That's just a 3d printed spacer someone posted on here and i just modified it to fit my frame.

 

[999zip999]

Beautiful bike keep your hands on it and or lockett and GPS it. I live in southern California on the beach Idaho for the homeless look. But that is beautiful
Yeah I hate a twitchy throttle the one that always does Willy's funny Wheelies or something. I had a 8000 Watt twitchy throttle motor it cause a lot of trouble not just jumping it made me nervous emotionally nervous I I learned it to the neighbor for a test ride he stuck it to the wall vertically actors right just the twitch of the throttle and it's stuck lucky wasn't the Raj door it was the wall in between. Twitch throttle.

 

[DtiK]

Hello. Is there better chainring packs for cyclone? or chainrings.

for 1/8 chain, not 3/32


More durable..

 

[Ehayoung]

Here are some pics of my bike. Equipment is as follows:
Bikes direct gravity bike, 27.5 x 2.8 wheels
Luna Cyclone 3000 kit
CA3 with external shunt
Magura throttle
White industries crank freewheel from SBP
Using the 104bcd spider adapter in order to run a 45t outer ring and a 41t inner ring to cassette
52v 20ah UPP battery. It's 14s8p, I have the stock controller so 40amps.

I figured out the strapping question I asked about. I found that steel strap with holes and used it to hold the motor still. It got rid of the hose clamp and zip tie and I think because it is attached to the motor case bolt on the top right side the motor no longer flexes any noticable amount. It doesn't look that great compared to yours but now my chain no longer pops off at all. Before I put that on I couldn't go from a stand still to WOT at full amperage and not throw the chain off. Now I can. I just did probably 20 standing wheelies in a row with no issues.
I mostly use the bike for riding in the street, commuting, and I have taken it on some MTB and horse trails and gravel. It does great in everything I have put it through. I have done 500 miles on the cassette chain and 100 miles on the motor chain. This first motor chain was stretched pretty well past 1% when I checked it at 400 miles, but those first 200 miles were probably really hard on it because i had the tension way too loose and then way too tight and the motor chain line was way out of alignment. I hope this chain lasts longer. It's a Izumi v super toughness so we'll see. No noticeable wear after 100 miles so far.

I replaced the tensioner with the roller idea from I believe it was dingus but instead of a steel roller around a bronze bushing/bearing I have a nylon sleeve over a bronze bushing and it works great with much less noise that the steel roller.
I can fill up those cargo bags and put a big messenger bag on top of the rack and still reach 35mph on the flats on a fresh battery, and 32mph once the battery discharges to 51v. Without the bags those number are 38mph and 34mph.
I am very happy with the build now that the flex is gone.

It's a great kit and I definitely couldnt have made it work without this forum. before this project I had never done any work on a bicycle at all, so had to learn what a bottom bracket was, the different types of bb, all of terminology etc. And it would have been much harder without these resources.
Some things I will upgrade/change as I go are:
72v, one day, maybe not until after this pack gives out. Still deciding on whether I'd buy a pack from luna, or buy a kweld and put one together myself.

I work in a machine shop and will probably fabricate some custome clamps/mounts in the future, but maybe not because I am lazy sometimes

Maybe some removable fairings around the handlebars and stem area as well as over the rear rack to gain some efficiency and some looks.

A better battery case that fits in the triangle exactly for a more refined look with some cable hiding passageways built in. I will probably do it out of wood, maybe bamboo plywood or large thin bamboo cutting boards. I have access to a 2.5 axis cnc router and I think I could make it look pretty nice.

I may switch to a Shimano alfine 8 hub for a cleaner chain line and cleaner shifts, but I haven't decided yet.

I want to add in some blinkers and a tail light that is wired to the battery.

Once these tires go I want to replace them with the schwalbe Moto x tires in the same size since I mostly ride on pavement and hard pack with some light trails and grass.

Again thank you to all who have contributed to this forum and giving me access to the ideas that let your bikes work, making my build so much easier. If anyone has recommendations for me please let me know, and let me know what you think of the bike!

 

[forcefed]

Luna Cyclone 3000 kit
CA3 with external shunt

Does the ca3 allow some throttle curve adjustments? Do you use pas with the ca3?