new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

[Ehayoung]

Hello. Is there better chainring packs for cyclone? or chainrings.

for 1/8 chain, not 3/32


More durable..

I would recommend you go with one of the spiders from sick bike parts. Whatever bcd you want. I think 110 and 130 are more common for larger chainrings and 104 is usually for smaller chainrings. I wen with 104 because that is what the stock chainrings are. If I did it again I would buy 110 or 130 because the chainrings I want are usually those sizes. I and to really search to find these chainrings and I cannot find a bash guard that will fit either.
Either way, use the spider with any aluminum chainrings you want, but get a narrow wides to help stop chain drops. The aluminum seems like it would be weaker that the steel that the stock ones are but the stock are very thin so can bend, where as the aluminum ones you can buy are pretty thick it seems. I can imagine one bending but they will wear quicker, but they are cheap, like $10-$25 depending on size, and they look better imo.
Also you don't need the chainring to be 1/8. A 3/32 chainring will run a 1/8 chain no problem just not the other way around. I don't believe the stock rings are 1/8, as they look really thin. I only say you don't need 1/8 because when I was looking it was really hard to find any chain ring that was 1/8 because even a lot of SS bikes and bmx bikes now are using 3/32 chains for some reason, and so making chain ring in 3/32 means they are usable by everyone, where as 1/8 would only be compatible with single speed users that use 1/8 everything

 

[Ehayoung]

Luna Cyclone 3000 kit
CA3 with external shunt

Doea the ca3 allow some throttle curve adjustments? Do you use pas with the ca3?

The short answer is yes it does have curve adjustments.

I don't use PAS at all, but only because it seems like it would be weird with the cyclone's cadence. I can't pedal along with any of the top motor speeds of any of my gears until 7th and even then it's fast.
The long answer:
The CA3 plugs into the throttle connection on the controller, and you plug in your throttle to the CA3. The CA3 is also connected to the discharge leads of the battery between battery and controller and so also acts as an amp meter, volt meter, power meter and odometer and spedometer.. Then the CA3 takes over the throttle output to the controller completely, Based off of the throttle input it receives from you.
I use it in the amperage mode which makes the throttle more torque based instead of speed based. It does this through a bunch of math involving the amperage flowing to the controller and the position of your throttle. You can map ramping time of the throttle signal voltage and when using the amperage mode you can adjust gain settings that seem to dictate how the throttle launches off of the line. It's more complicated then that, and when you see how it's connected you can understand what it's doing but I don't fully understand exactly how it does it. Before I bought it I was skeptical that it would be able to run it's algorithms fast enough and effectively enough to actually make the throttle usable and actually give it a more torque based feel but I can say I am happy with it.
If i don't want it to wheelie at all no matter what I do I turn the gain down from 125 to 65 and the acceleration from a dead stop is smooth and more gradual. If I have it at 25 the acceleration is still smooth but the gradual is gone and I can flip the bike if I want. I use 3 preset modes. One maxed out for unrestricted riding which I used on the street and commuting. I have one I call economy for longer trips but I don't really use it that much because I just use the throttle more lightly when I want to conserve. And the last one I use is called low which is in power mode (wattage) and is limited to only 600w for slower more technical trail riding with the bags filled up so I fly over hills into trees or anything.
I hope my answer helps and wasn't too long. Any other questions and ill answer as best I can
You can also use it to set speed limits on the bike and it can definitely be used with a PAS I just haven't done it so can't speak to it's effectiveness.

 

[forcefed]

Thanks for the detailed answer, sounds like something I need to make this thing more liveable

 

[Ehayoung]

I believe it was worth it. It's pretty simple to install, and I really like all the info it gives. It is just a little ugly is all. I really like your build though and I don't think it would bring your asthetics down that much, just open up the CA3 and desolder the wires you're not going to use, to cut down on the wire mess that comes out of the back.

 

[forcefed]

Wiring should be easy to hide around my battery bag, but getting rid of useless wires is first on the list

 

[DtiK]

Hello. Is there better chainring packs for cyclone? or chainrings.

for 1/8 chain, not 3/32


More durable..

I would recommend you go with one of the spiders from sick bike parts. Whatever bcd you want. I think 110 and 130 are more common for larger chainrings and 104 is usually for smaller chainrings. I wen with 104 because that is what the stock chainrings are. If I did it again I would buy 110 or 130 because the chainrings I want are usually those sizes. I and to really search to find these chainrings and I cannot find a bash guard that will fit either.
Either way, use the spider with any aluminum chainrings you want, but get a narrow wides to help stop chain drops. The aluminum seems like it would be weaker that the steel that the stock ones are but the stock are very thin so can bend, where as the aluminum ones you can buy are pretty thick it seems. I can imagine one bending but they will wear quicker, but they are cheap, like $10-$25 depending on size, and they look better imo.
Also you don't need the chainring to be 1/8. A 3/32 chainring will run a 1/8 chain no problem just not the other way around. I don't believe the stock rings are 1/8, as they look really thin. I only say you don't need 1/8 because when I was looking it was really hard to find any chain ring that was 1/8 because even a lot of SS bikes and bmx bikes now are using 3/32 chains for some reason, and so making chain ring in 3/32 means they are usable by everyone, where as 1/8 would only be compatible with single speed users that use 1/8 everything

am i correct?

i need.

Front Freewheel - Heavy Duty
Freewheel Spider - 4 Arm 104 mm
Chain Guard for 44 and 48 Tooth Chainring
Chainring - Freewheel - 44 Tooth
Chainring - Freewheel - 36 Tooth
Chainring Hardware 1
shipping
24% vat
3,7% toll

Grand Total $217,13



ouch

 

[Ehayoung]

Hello. Is there better chainring packs for cyclone? or chainrings.

for 1/8 chain, not 3/32


More durable..

I would recommend you go with one of the spiders from sick bike parts. Whatever bcd you want. I think 110 and 130 are more common for larger chainrings and 104 is usually for smaller chainrings. I wen with 104 because that is what the stock chainrings are. If I did it again I would buy 110 or 130 because the chainrings I want are usually those sizes. I and to really search to find these chainrings and I cannot find a bash guard that will fit either.
Either way, use the spider with any aluminum chainrings you want, but get a narrow wides to help stop chain drops. The aluminum seems like it would be weaker that the steel that the stock ones are but the stock are very thin so can bend, where as the aluminum ones you can buy are pretty thick it seems. I can imagine one bending but they will wear quicker, but they are cheap, like $10-$25 depending on size, and they look better imo.
Also you don't need the chainring to be 1/8. A 3/32 chainring will run a 1/8 chain no problem just not the other way around. I don't believe the stock rings are 1/8, as they look really thin. I only say you don't need 1/8 because when I was looking it was really hard to find any chain ring that was 1/8 because even a lot of SS bikes and bmx bikes now are using 3/32 chains for some reason, and so making chain ring in 3/32 means they are usable by everyone, where as 1/8 would only be compatible with single speed users that use 1/8 everything

am i correct?

i need.

Front Freewheel - Heavy Duty
Freewheel Spider - 4 Arm 104 mm
Chain Guard for 44 and 48 Tooth Chainring
Chainring - Freewheel - 44 Tooth
Chainring - Freewheel - 36 Tooth
Chainring Hardware 1
shipping
24% vat
3,7% toll

Grand Total $217,13



ouch

Not at all. You only need the 4 arm spider from sick bike parts. It will go on the freewheel that you already have. You don't need the chain guard and you don't need any of the chainrings or the chain guard from there. The point of the spider is to be able to use regular bicycle chainrings from any site. Look at my bike to see the chainrings and spider I am using. You don't need the chainring hardware either as you must currently have chainring hardware holding your existing chainrings together.
For instance use the spider and use a couple of these : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0819QY39H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BfH-Eb67JEBFC
Now those are different tooth counts to your current setup, and if you want to keep the same ratios it may be difficult to find a 48t chainring in 104bcd but I'm sure you could. But if you change your ratios some you could have a robust freewheel setup that resists chain drops better for the cost of the spider and 2 of those chainrings I links, which would be like $60 plus whatever vat you have to pay. Youll have to search around for 104bcd chainrings and figure out what ratios you'd like but that is the nice part about using the spider. It gives you the ability to fine tune all of your gear ratios.
If I was doing it again I would buy:
110 5 arm spider

This: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N33UU2P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ikH-Eb0T19SZX
But only because I wanted to try sharktooth profile going to the motor, and this ring is 1/8 for motor chain so a perfect fit

Then buy another of those same listing but for 44t x 3/32

I didn't like having the stock 44t going to the cassette because 1st felt too high and I reached top speed in 6th gear. Now I have 41t going to cassette and 1st is low enough now and I reach top speed in 7th gear which is my highest usable gear anyway with the chainline the way it is. I realized now you are using triple chainring which I am using a double, but if I was to use triple I would keep what I have listed and I would buy a 34t like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G363UU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OvH-EbFSF2KB5
To give me a lower gear. Adding the triple to the spider you will probably longer chainring bolts and some washers like these maybe https://www.ebay.com/itm/382885243565
Now these suggestions are just that, suggestions. I am not sure on the vat cost for you or if this is the best way to proceed, but I believe those stock chainrings are thin and bendable and overpriced. I think they will work but you asked for an upgrade/stronger set and the chainrings listed on sick bike parts are the exact same chainrings as the ones that come with the kit so those will not be any stronger and when they break or bend you will be right back here again with the same choices. I didn't do the math exactly but I think for the double chainring setup I listed it's about $60 and the triple would be like $100 because of the extra bolts. But then when it comes time to replace chainrings you won't need to buy another spider or bolts and your maint. Cost will be lower. And you probably won't be replacing the chainrings due to bending but most likely from normal wear and tear, and I have traveled 500miles on those rings with no noticeable wear and once they do wear I will flip them around and wear the other side of the teeth. ( You wouldn't be able to do that on those shark tooth rings but they seem like they would perform well and I wish I could try them) all in all though you will have to decide for yourself if this is the right path for your bike.

 

[DtiK]

Hello. Is there better chainring packs for cyclone? or chainrings.

for 1/8 chain, not 3/32


More durable..

I would recommend you go with one of the spiders from sick bike parts. Whatever bcd you want. I think 110 and 130 are more common for larger chainrings and 104 is usually for smaller chainrings. I wen with 104 because that is what the stock chainrings are. If I did it again I would buy 110 or 130 because the chainrings I want are usually those sizes. I and to really search to find these chainrings and I cannot find a bash guard that will fit either.
Either way, use the spider with any aluminum chainrings you want, but get a narrow wides to help stop chain drops. The aluminum seems like it would be weaker that the steel that the stock ones are but the stock are very thin so can bend, where as the aluminum ones you can buy are pretty thick it seems. I can imagine one bending but they will wear quicker, but they are cheap, like $10-$25 depending on size, and they look better imo.
Also you don't need the chainring to be 1/8. A 3/32 chainring will run a 1/8 chain no problem just not the other way around. I don't believe the stock rings are 1/8, as they look really thin. I only say you don't need 1/8 because when I was looking it was really hard to find any chain ring that was 1/8 because even a lot of SS bikes and bmx bikes now are using 3/32 chains for some reason, and so making chain ring in 3/32 means they are usable by everyone, where as 1/8 would only be compatible with single speed users that use 1/8 everything

am i correct?

i need.

Front Freewheel - Heavy Duty
Freewheel Spider - 4 Arm 104 mm
Chain Guard for 44 and 48 Tooth Chainring
Chainring - Freewheel - 44 Tooth
Chainring - Freewheel - 36 Tooth
Chainring Hardware 1
shipping
24% vat
3,7% toll

Grand Total $217,13



ouch

Not at all. You only need the 4 arm spider from sick bike parts. It will go on the freewheel that you already have. You don't need the chain guard and you don't need any of the chainrings or the chain guard from there. The point of the spider is to be able to use regular bicycle chainrings from any site. Look at my bike to see the chainrings and spider I am using. You don't need the chainring hardware either as you must currently have chainring hardware holding your existing chainrings together.
For instance use the spider and use a couple of these : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0819QY39H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BfH-Eb67JEBFC
Now those are different tooth counts to your current setup, and if you want to keep the same ratios it may be difficult to find a 48t chainring in 104bcd but I'm sure you could. But if you change your ratios some you could have a robust freewheel setup that resists chain drops better for the cost of the spider and 2 of those chainrings I links, which would be like $60 plus whatever vat you have to pay. Youll have to search around for 104bcd chainrings and figure out what ratios you'd like but that is the nice part about using the spider. It gives you the ability to fine tune all of your gear ratios.
If I was doing it again I would buy:
110 5 arm spider

This: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N33UU2P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ikH-Eb0T19SZX
But only because I wanted to try sharktooth profile going to the motor, and this ring is 1/8 for motor chain so a perfect fit

Then buy another of those same listing but for 44t x 3/32

I didn't like having the stock 44t going to the cassette because 1st felt too high and I reached top speed in 6th gear. Now I have 41t going to cassette and 1st is low enough now and I reach top speed in 7th gear which is my highest usable gear anyway with the chainline the way it is. I realized now you are using triple chainring which I am using a double, but if I was to use triple I would keep what I have listed and I would buy a 34t like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G363UU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OvH-EbFSF2KB5
To give me a lower gear. Adding the triple to the spider you will probably longer chainring bolts and some washers like these maybe https://www.ebay.com/itm/382885243565
Now these suggestions are just that, suggestions. I am not sure on the vat cost for you or if this is the best way to proceed, but I believe those stock chainrings are thin and bendable and overpriced. I think they will work but you asked for an upgrade/stronger set and the chainrings listed on sick bike parts are the exact same chainrings as the ones that come with the kit so those will not be any stronger and when they break or bend you will be right back here again with the same choices. I didn't do the math exactly but I think for the double chainring setup I listed it's about $60 and the triple would be like $100 because of the extra bolts. But then when it comes time to replace chainrings you won't need to buy another spider or bolts and your maint. Cost will be lower. And you probably won't be replacing the chainrings due to bending but most likely from normal wear and tear, and I have traveled 500miles on those rings with no noticeable wear and once they do wear I will flip them around and wear the other side of the teeth. ( You wouldn't be able to do that on those shark tooth rings but they seem like they would perform well and I wish I could try them) all in all though you will have to decide for yourself if this is the right path for your bike.

thanks. I think I order that 110 5 arm spider because there is plenty of chainrings available for it. Also stainless steel. Which are very durable?

 

[Ehayoung]

I think so too. This is why I said if I did it again I would choose 110 bcd. I only chose 104 because that was stock and I didn't know any better, but 104 chainrings are usually smaller and usually only aluminum. I just learned about any cycling stuff though. I hope you can get the chain ring setup youre happy with!

 

[Djadub3]

Hey Everyone, got my new Cyclone 3000W upgraded from the old 1680W, goT the one with the bluetooth controller and got stuff all set up there pretty well. I also noticed that as others have mentioned here that the dashboard screen is pretty much useless, cause the speed doesn't really work right and no way to check your max power etc unless you are going flat out with a phone in your hand and trying to look at the tiny numbers. So I have been hacking the app and making my own dash that would do some data storage and graphing of Volts amps watts etc.

Is anyone interested in this?
I would spend some time and make it nice if people actually wanted it.

Also I noticed that the voltage from the App is pretty far off, bluetooth only sends whole numbers, and obviously not calibrated quite right, wondering if others notice that Volts are off by a couple?
I could add some correction for the voltage in my app but still wouldn't be super accurate.

And do you guys think the current is fairly accurate?

heres the new kit

 

[forcefed]

Is anyone interested in this?
I would spend some time and make it nice if people actually wanted it.

I'm pretty sure people would want it, would it also allow changing of those settings or just to monitor?

 

[Djadub3]

I'm pretty sure people would want it, would it also allow changing of those settings or just to monitor?

I wasn't really planning on doing the settings I looked into it and its a lot might be some issues there, but maybe, getting the voltage and such is a lot easier and I already have code doing that.

 

[forcefed]

After 1000km i'm noticing the chain keeps dropping from the front chain ring during specific up shifts under load(300w). With no load maybe 5% of the time it'll drop, and rather than dropping to the left it drops to the right between the chainrings :x
Since there's plenty of space between the two chain rings i'm pretty sure i can fit a piece of aluminum to act as a chain guard.
But other than that whats the solution? Some better chainrings? I'm on the stock ones from sickbikeparts.

 

[electric_nz]

I use an old front derailleur adjusted as a chain guide.

 

[Tommm]

After 1000km i'm noticing the chain keeps dropping from the front chain ring during specific up shifts under load(300w). With no load maybe 5% of the time it'll drop, and rather than dropping to the left it drops to the right between the chainrings :x
Since there's plenty of space between the two chain rings i'm pretty sure i can fit a piece of aluminum to act as a chain guard.
But other than that whats the solution? Some better chainrings? I'm on the stock ones from sickbikeparts.

Narrow wide type chainring or front chain guide (I use fouriers).

 

[forcefed]

I use an old front derailleur adjusted as a chain guide.

Need to find one that fits a fatbike with a 100mm bb spacing, current one i have is for a 68mm bb.

Narrow wide type chainring or front chain guide (I use fouriers).

Are there any that bolt up to the sbp freewheel?

 

[Tommm]

I use an old front derailleur adjusted as a chain guide.

Need to find one that fits a fatbike with a 100mm bb spacing, current one i have is for a 68mm bb.

Narrow wide type chainring or front chain guide (I use fouriers).

Are there any that bolt up to the sbp freewheel?

Guides don't bolt up to the freewheel, they bolt up to your frame, same way as a front derailleur

 

[forcefed]

I use an old front derailleur adjusted as a chain guide.

Need to find one that fits a fatbike with a 100mm bb spacing, current one i have is for a 68mm bb.

Narrow wide type chainring or front chain guide (I use fouriers).

Are there any that bolt up to the sbp freewheel?

Guides don't bolt up to the freewheel, they bolt up to your frame, same way as a front derailleur

I was talking about the chain ring, currently they're connected to the free wheel on the crank.

 

[Tommm]

I use an old front derailleur adjusted as a chain guide.

Need to find one that fits a fatbike with a 100mm bb spacing, current one i have is for a 68mm bb.

Narrow wide type chainring or front chain guide (I use fouriers).

Are there any that bolt up to the sbp freewheel?

Guides don't bolt up to the freewheel, they bolt up to your frame, same way as a front derailleur

I was talking about the chain ring, currently they're connected to the free wheel on the crank.

There must be a bcd104 interface between the two. Some pictures would help.

 

[forcefed]

Need to find one that fits a fatbike with a 100mm bb spacing, current one i have is for a 68mm bb.


Are there any that bolt up to the sbp freewheel?

Guides don't bolt up to the freewheel, they bolt up to your frame, same way as a front derailleur

I was talking about the chain ring, currently they're connected to the free wheel on the crank.

There must be a bcd104 interface between the two. Some pictures would help.

Here's the stock chain ring with the free wheel in the middle, but I think I found the solution straight from sbp http://sickbikeparts.com/freewheel-spider-4-arm-104-mm/
Is 104mm the most common size chain ring? They have 110 and 130mm adapters also.

 

[Tommm]

Guides don't bolt up to the freewheel, they bolt up to your frame, same way as a front derailleur

I was talking about the chain ring, currently they're connected to the free wheel on the crank.

There must be a bcd104 interface between the two. Some pictures would help.

Here's the stock chain ring with the free wheel in the middle, but I think I found the solution straight from sbp http://sickbikeparts.com/freewheel-spider-4-arm-104-mm/
Is 104mm the most common size chain ring? They have 110 and 130mm adapters also.

That looks good. 104 is the most versatile one as it goes from 30t to 52t. Be sure to get chainring bolts and use loctite on them. They are very prone to unwinding and getting lost on the road.

 

[CobraJet]

I was talking about the chain ring, currently they're connected to the free wheel on the crank.

There must be a bcd104 interface between the two. Some pictures would help.

Here's the stock chain ring with the free wheel in the middle, but I think I found the solution straight from sbp http://sickbikeparts.com/freewheel-spider-4-arm-104-mm/
Is 104mm the most common size chain ring? They have 110 and 130mm adapters also.

That looks good. 104 is the most versatile one as it goes from 30t to 52t. Be sure to get chainring bolts and use loctite on them. They are very prone to unwinding and getting lost on the road.

So what does the Freewheel Spider do? It looks like a spacer.

 

[Tommm]

There must be a bcd104 interface between the two. Some pictures would help.

Here's the stock chain ring with the free wheel in the middle, but I think I found the solution straight from sbp http://sickbikeparts.com/freewheel-spider-4-arm-104-mm/
Is 104mm the most common size chain ring? They have 110 and 130mm adapters also.

That looks good. 104 is the most versatile one as it goes from 30t to 52t. Be sure to get chainring bolts and use loctite on them. They are very prone to unwinding and getting lost on the road.

So what does the Freewheel Spider do? It looks like a spacer.

If you scroll down on that listing, you can see the freewheels have the 5 small hole interface. This spider lets you put any standard 4 hole bc104 chainring on it. These type of chainrings are narrow wide, cheap as dirt and in a large selection on aliexpress.

 

[forcefed]

I was talking about the chain ring, currently they're connected to the free wheel on the crank.

There must be a bcd104 interface between the two. Some pictures would help.

Here's the stock chain ring with the free wheel in the middle, but I think I found the solution straight from sbp http://sickbikeparts.com/freewheel-spider-4-arm-104-mm/
Is 104mm the most common size chain ring? They have 110 and 130mm adapters also.

That looks good. 104 is the most versatile one as it goes from 30t to 52t. Be sure to get chainring bolts and use loctite on them. They are very prone to unwinding and getting lost on the road.

Hmm can I use regular nuts and bolts instead? I have to attach two chainring to this adapter and get the spacing perfect with the cyclone, not sure those chainring bolts will be long enough, there's currently 9mm spacing between my chainrings.

 

[Tommm]

There must be a bcd104 interface between the two. Some pictures would help.

Here's the stock chain ring with the free wheel in the middle, but I think I found the solution straight from sbp http://sickbikeparts.com/freewheel-spider-4-arm-104-mm/
Is 104mm the most common size chain ring? They have 110 and 130mm adapters also.

That looks good. 104 is the most versatile one as it goes from 30t to 52t. Be sure to get chainring bolts and use loctite on them. They are very prone to unwinding and getting lost on the road.

Hmm can I use regular nuts and bolts instead? I have to attach two chainring to this adapter and get the spacing perfect with the cyclone, not sure those chainring bolts will be long enough, there's currently 9mm spacing between my chainrings.

You can get a set of extra long chainring bolts or yea use regular bolts but it might stick out somewhere you don't want it to.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sram-Truvativ-Chainring-Bolts-Set-MTB-1-fach-with-Bashring-Steel-Long/392238156554?hash=item5b53374b0a:g:GogAAOSw1fJevY42