new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Haha, yeah, I'm sure it will be underpowered but I got this pack used to get started and it will have to do-for now.

Evolutiongts: Regarding the coloring of the wires if I connect the electrical connectors as they are designed to be connected, I am seeing the following:
Yellow to green
Green to yellow
Same as you.

But
Hall sensor bundle I have
Yellow to yellow
Green to blue
Blue to green
Different than you? What does everyone else have?
 
Underpowered is the least of your problems. The battery won't last very long and can potentially explode if pushed too hard... I would advice to NOT run this kit with such a low rated pack. Is a pack used for 250W ebikes, not 2000 watt eBikes... you get the point?

G.

Mikebike said:
Haha, yeah, I'm sure it will be underpowered but I got this pack used to get started and it will have to do-for now.

Evolutiongts: Regarding the coloring of the wires if I connect the electrical connectors as they are designed to be connected, I am seeing the following:
Yellow to green
Green to yellow
Same as you.

But
Hall sensor bundle I have
Yellow to yellow
Green to blue
Blue to green
Different than you? What does everyone else have?
 
gman1971,

welcome to the chain breaking group. I have broken a Bell Chain 1/2 x 1/8 on motor and a 9 speed Bell on the C3000. Wal Mart stuff. Currently, I have a Sram 1031 on the LR SB since start up and a Shimano HG-93 on the C 3000. Once I read a post on ES whose poster suggested the Wipperman Connex was the toughest bike Chain. You pay German Euro $$ for this chain. I can get Shimano HG-93 for $15 on ebay and the Wipperman begins at about $50.00 on ebay. Surely, the Wipperman does not outlast 3 Shimano HG-93's? Have you concluded anything about which chain might last the longest? I have an FSA chain in waiting to test.
 
turbo1889,

TFPU [thanks for posting up] on my expressed concern as to how well internal gear hubs hold up to mid drive loads. And thanks for the gear graphics.
 
DingusMcGee said:
gman1971,

welcome to the chain breaking group. I have broken a Bell Chain 1/2 x 1/8 on motor and a 9 speed Bell on the C3000. Wal Mart stuff. Currently, I have a Sram 1031 on the LR SB since start up and a Shimano HG-93 on the C 3000. Once I read a post on ES whose poster suggested the Wipperman Connex was the toughest bike Chain. You pay German Euro $$ for this chain. I can get Shimano HG-93 for $15 on ebay and the Wipperman begins at about $50.00 on ebay. Surely, the Wipperman does not outlast 3 Shimano HG-93's? Have you concluded anything about which chain might last the longest? I have an FSA chain in waiting to test.

Thanks lol... I was doing dumb things when I broke it though... and it was easy, just shift under load and it will break real fast!!

I am currently running a KMC 10.99 for 10 speed, its nickel plated and whatnot, but with the crap-ton of salt on the roads it rusts like crazy; basically is clean up time every night.. I don't even bother with oiling it anymore... if I put any oil/grease on the chain when I get home that night is black and rusted... if I just degrease it then is just mild rusted... Mine was 40 bucks on amazon... not sure which one I'll try next...

G.
 
gman1971 said:
DingusMcGee said:
gman1971,

welcome to the chain breaking group. I have broken a Bell Chain 1/2 x 1/8 on motor and a 9 speed Bell on the C3000. Wal Mart stuff. Currently, I have a Sram 1031 on the LR SB since start up and a Shimano HG-93 on the C 3000. Once I read a post on ES whose poster suggested the Wipperman Connex was the toughest bike Chain. You pay German Euro $$ for this chain. I can get Shimano HG-93 for $15 on ebay and the Wipperman begins at about $50.00 on ebay. Surely, the Wipperman does not outlast 3 Shimano HG-93's? Have you concluded anything about which chain might last the longest? I have an FSA chain in waiting to test.

Thanks lol... I was doing dumb things when I broke it though... and it was easy, just shift under load and it will break real fast!!

I am currently running a KMC 10.99 for 10 speed, its nickel plated and whatnot, but with the crap-ton of salt on the roads it rusts like crazy; basically is clean up time every night.. I don't even bother with oiling it anymore... if I put any oil/grease on the chain when I get home that night is black and rusted... if I just degrease it then is just mild rusted... Mine was 40 bucks on amazon... not sure which one I'll try next...

G.

[youtube]f5lYNgCVwFo[/youtube]
 
Today I crashed pretty good on my way home from work... unscathed, sore chest and only mechanical damage was the "dash" camera I was using since it got dunked in salty snow/sleet... so its gone... :(

Long story short, I was doing 20mph when I crossed a sleet patch that didn't appear to be that big... but all of the sudden front wheel loses grip and off I go... superman my way over the ground... OUCH...

The metal spikes on the front tire didn't help much so after the wreck I deflated the tires to 15 psi and that really did the trick... although the bike was wobbly as heck, it didn't slide on the sleet anymore and I stayed under 20 mph. with both my feet extended landing gear style...

Scary tho, real scary!!

After I got home I tore everything down and cleaned everything; the bike was completely soaked in sleet/salt/snow... it was a real mess. While I had motor apart I redid all the connectors using Tamiya 3 prong RC connectors and covered all cables/connectors using shrink tubing and electrical tape; I don't think I'll have any problems with salt water contamination anymore. :)

Anybody has crashed this good before?

G.
 
I also took the time to check for flex, and it has some flex when gunning it; I measured about 2 mm from the object I used as reference.

G.
 
gman1971 said:
Cars with engines way more powerful than our ebikes have gears and they don't drive in 6th gear all the time... If you prefer to run dd, then go ahead, I'll keep my 20 speed eBike so when conditions get real shitty I can power my way through anything.
You know electric motors functions differently than ICE right? why compare the two? most electric motorcycles only have single speed. even the ones they use to climb pikes peak, raced Isles of Man tt zero etc. mostly have single speed. You dont need to rev an electric motor to produce power.hence transmission being unnecessary. you benefit from a tranny on a light weight electric bike if you got a small motor or a low power motor since you need to optimize the limited power you have. Proper gear ratio should be able to get you what you want on a high power bike, 2kw and up. I think evolutiongts can tell you a thing or two about this since he had one of those high powered singlespeed middrive bikes which he races. I mean even electric cars are only single speed, Tesla for example. gotta wonder why.

Here is an old thread regarding just that. read it! it will benefit you well! :wink: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=14419
 
lantice13 said:
gman1971 said:
Snapped the chain already. I don't shift under power anymore...
This is when I'll say I told you so. :roll:

Yep, this was late in October last year when I first got the GNG up and running... I felt like Ayrton Senna ripping through the gears... :)

G.
 
lantice13 said:
gman1971 said:
Cars with engines way more powerful than our ebikes have gears and they don't drive in 6th gear all the time... If you prefer to run dd, then go ahead, I'll keep my 20 speed eBike so when conditions get real shitty I can power my way through anything.
You know electric motors functions differently than ICE right? why compare the two? most electric motorcycles only have single speed. even the ones they use to climb pikes peak, raced Isles of Man tt zero etc. mostly have single speed. You dont need to rev an electric motor to produce power.hence transmission being unnecessary. you benefit from a tranny on a light weight electric bike if you got a small motor or a low power motor since you need to optimize the limited power you have. Proper gear ratio should be able to get you what you want on a high power bike, 2kw and up. I think evolutiongts can tell you a thing or two about this since he had one of those high powered singlespeed middrive bikes which he races. I mean even electric cars are only single speed, Tesla for example. gotta wonder why.

Here is an old thread regarding just that. read it! it will benefit you well! :wink: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=14419

Thanks...

Fact is that this motor bogs pretty bad even whean peaking 2.2 kW in a 32T chainring and 36T sprocket when towing stuff... I've also tested towing stuff up the hill with a 32-32T combo and it barely made it all the way up, and on a 32-28T it stalled and controller shut motor off. So no, I don't believe you can tow 100 lbs worth of dogs/tents/food/propane (two trailers) up a 15% hill on the snow with a single gear... at least not with the motor I have, and definitively not without destroying the transmission... the 32-28T was painful to hear the creaking... (no skipping though)

G.
 
Some reference reading about chains, derailer and IGH on mid drives. should answer some of the questions posted above. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59026
 
Ok, I'm gonna be back on topic! =D well seems like there has been some developments! someone at ES-FB posted his take on this kit. One of our members on the FB group "Earl McDonald" custom fabricated a mounting hardware for a Luna Cycle fat bike cargo frame. The drive wont be hanging on the usual spot under the bb but instead will sit inside the rear triangle of the bike. thought I'd share it here. might inspire others to improve this kit.
 

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gman1971 said:
lantice13 said:
gman1971 said:
Cars with engines way more powerful than our ebikes have gears and they don't drive in 6th gear all the time... If you prefer to run dd, then go ahead, I'll keep my 20 speed eBike so when conditions get real shitty I can power my way through anything.
You know electric motors functions differently than ICE right? why compare the two? most electric motorcycles only have single speed. even the ones they use to climb pikes peak, raced Isles of Man tt zero etc. mostly have single speed. You dont need to rev an electric motor to produce power.hence transmission being unnecessary. you benefit from a tranny on a light weight electric bike if you got a small motor or a low power motor since you need to optimize the limited power you have. Proper gear ratio should be able to get you what you want on a high power bike, 2kw and up. I think evolutiongts can tell you a thing or two about this since he had one of those high powered singlespeed middrive bikes which he races. I mean even electric cars are only single speed, Tesla for example. gotta wonder why.

Here is an old thread regarding just that. read it! it will benefit you well! :wink: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=14419

Thanks...

Fact is that this motor bogs pretty bad even whean peaking 2.2 kW in a 32T chainring and 36T sprocket when towing stuff... I've also tested towing stuff up the hill with a 32-32T combo and it barely made it all the way up, and on a 32-28T it stalled and controller shut motor off. So no, I don't believe you can tow 100 lbs worth of dogs/tents/food/propane (two trailers) up a 15% hill on the snow with a single gear... at least not with the motor I have, and definitively not without destroying the transmission... the 32-28T was painful to hear the creaking... (no skipping though)

G.
well I have a dual motor ebike for such duties. ;) no skips,no worry about drivetrain being stressed to far since load is distributed on different parts of the bike and I got a back up motor in case the mid drive or the hub motor fails on me. ;)
 
Holy cow! even luna cycle got their version of my setup. 3kw cyclone mid and a 500w-750w rear bafang geared hub motor on the rear. actually this is one way to reduce flex in that mid drive as the hub motor helps turn the wheel so that you don't use 100% of the mid drives power.
 
Some reference reading for this kind of setup. Mid drive hub drive prototype baby! https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=53268
 
100% torque at 0 RPM... In my book that means snapped chains, bent motor mounts, bent frame, etc... aka: drivetrain mayhem... no thanks... I much rather achieve power (not torque) on these eBikes through the use of RPM than through brute force... Torque is the very thing I am trying to avoid so I don't have to replace my drivetrain every week... and BTW, torque is what killed the GNG kit (the instatorque-snap upon startup) The "more torque" mentality reminds me of my aerospace teacher telling us back in the 90s the joke that with enough power you can make bricks fly. And thats only talking about the mechanical part of the drivetrain... now if you factor in the electronics, there is a massive amount of amps running through the system and that's another issue to deal with... cooling, etc etc... again, high RPM to build torque at the end... not the other way around.

As for the Tesla, well, lets begin by saying that the Tesla was not meant to tow heavy stuff nor go offroad... now, will it tow stuff? absolutely! but..., will it last towing something several times its weight? I doubt it will... My ebike is ~49 lbs wit battery and can easily haul a 170 lbs rider + tow 100 lbs worth of cargo 8-10 mph uphill... thats 270 lbs towing capacity for a 49 lbs bike... almost 6 times its own weight... (thanks to 20 speed gear reduction) Now, good luck towing something 6 times the Telsa's weight (18000 lbs)... your battery runtime will be measured it milliseconds (or meters, rather than kilometers), that is if something doesn't snap first, or the controllers don't catch fire, and batteries along with it... again the Tesla was designed for a purpose that doesn't match the purpose for my eBike; so just because Tesla did it that way doesn't mean its the right thing to do for my application.

G.
 
Thats twice the complexity, more shit to break... more stuff to go wrong... etc... no thanks... and why reinvent the wheel? That's why "gear reduction" was invented... so if you need more torque, you gear down, if you need more speed, you gear up...

lantice13 said:
well I have a dual motor ebike for such duties. ;) no skips,no worry about drivetrain being stressed to far since load is distributed on different parts of the bike and I got a back up motor in case the mid drive or the hub motor fails on me. ;)
 
gman1971 said:
Thats twice the complexity, more shit to break... more stuff to go wrong... etc... no thanks... and why reinvent the wheel? That's why "gear reduction" was invented... so if you need more torque, you gear down, if you need more speed, you gear up...

lantice13 said:
well I have a dual motor ebike for such duties. ;) no skips,no worry about drivetrain being stressed to far since load is distributed on different parts of the bike and I got a back up motor in case the mid drive or the hub motor fails on me. ;)
LOL and yet it's been alive for 4 years with ZERO problems on the mid drive side and the hub motor side unlike your bike. =P lol you talk about less complex drive system....and yet you use very complex set of reduction which put 3kw worth of power on a bicycle drive train. yeah. like that is very reliable and less complex. :roll:
 
gman1971 said:
100% torque at 0 RPM... In my book that means snapped chains, bent motor mounts, bent frame, etc... aka: drivetrain mayhem... no thanks... I much rather achieve power (not torque) on these eBikes through the use of RPM than through brute force... Torque is the very thing I am trying to avoid so I don't have to replace my drivetrain every week... and BTW, torque is what killed the GNG kit (the instatorque-snap upon startup) The "more torque" mentality reminds me of my aerospace teacher telling us back in the 90s the joke that with enough power you can make bricks fly. And thats only talking about the mechanical part of the drivetrain... now if you factor in the electronics, there is a massive amount of amps running through the system and that's another issue to deal with... cooling, etc etc... again, high RPM to build torque at the end... not the other way around.

As for the Tesla, well, lets begin by saying that the Tesla was not meant to tow heavy stuff nor go offroad... now, will it tow stuff? absolutely! but..., will it last towing something several times its weight? I doubt it will... My ebike is ~49 lbs wit battery and can easily haul a 170 lbs rider + tow 100 lbs worth of cargo 8-10 mph uphill... thats 270 lbs towing capacity for a 49 lbs bike... almost 6 times its own weight... (thanks to 20 speed gear reduction) Now, good luck towing something 6 times the Telsa's weight (18000 lbs)... your battery runtime will be measured it milliseconds (or meters, rather than kilometers), that is if something doesn't snap first, or the controllers don't catch fire, and batteries along with it... again the Tesla was designed for a purpose that doesn't match the purpose for my eBike; so just because Tesla did it that way doesn't mean its the right thing to do for my application.

G.
and there are solution for hard starting middirves which I believe I posted several pages ago?
oh man, who said you can only do this electric bike thing with high amp high Kv setup? raise the voltage enough and use a low Kv motor. and you wont need to push insane amount of amps to your motor. And if you can't figure out how to make things work on a high amp ebike build, then I think you should do some more reading on the older threads here.

First you deny the fact that the mounting hardware is under built at stock configuration, 2nd that it doesent flex....cool you found the solution to reduce the flex, but it still flexes according to your earlier post.... now 3rd, you dont believe the drive is powerfull enough to snap your chain the way you do gear shift.... then recently snapped a chain......4th wanted a less complex ebike setup so they don't break but dont want to hear anything about going single speed mid drive with proper reduction, which other builders are successful doing https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=47054also don't like hub motors, so you like cyclone mid drives since it's less complex and too few places that it can fail but in reality the kit is very complex and has alot of potential points of failure? we havent started with wear and tear yet on high powered mid drives...... Man why are you even on this forum if you cant take other peoples criticism about your build? Sounds like a fanatic of a certain brand. As I recall, you are the same way with your GNG gen2 till you found out yourself it's falling apart left and right. I suggest trying out/building a few other style of ebike so that you have a better understanding how other setup works.
 
lantice13,
You posted:


Some reference reading about chains, derailer and IGH on mid drives. should answer some of the questions posted above. viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59026


What are your conclusions from all this chatter? Just a few sentences would be fine.
 
First let me get this out of the way: Good to hear your mid-drive/hub is been running for 4 years... I've only had eBikes since October last year so I can't comment on what will happen 4 years from now. Regardless of what happens to me in 4 years, you also had a terrible first experience as well, more like a couple with various GNG kits; so stop preaching like you know better and making fun of my bad luck with my previous GNG... we all have to learn at some point and this is my learning, but be assured I'll get to where I need to be just like you did.

Yup, just make the torque gradual start up... but the torque, wether gradual or insta-snap still there; and massive amounts of torque are still going through the chain of a single geared mid-drive. (a hub motor you don't have to deal with chains, etc, but even hub motors could benefit from using 2 or 3 internal gear reduction). You're still limited to whatever max speed the motor coil windings are (no chance to overdrive in a downhill for example)... plus you need a motor with enough torque to make up for the lack of gear reduction... yes its simpler, of course it is, but simpler sometimes isn't as versatile as more complex. A plane is very simple aerodynamically speaking compared to a complex helicopter, but helicopter can do a lot more tasks than a plane simply cant. Sure, both fly (and plane files faster), but the versatility of the helicopter is unmatched for short range aerial operations. If I need a bike that rides 100 miles, sorry, I will drive any of cars at that point.

I do know about higher voltage, known this since I put my first RC helicopter together back in 2006... Power = I x V, and you can achieve it either way... unfortunately, I don't want to run more than 48 volt on my bike because if I was to touch any connector soaked in salt water I don't get electrocuted... 48V already gave me a funny tingle when I touched the connector soaked in salt water to disconnect... please, lets put 100 volts so you can get electrocuted.

fanatic?, I am simply excited that something finally worked... and I still think that 380 bucks gets you a fairly good kit. However, you don't seem to be agreeing with that and I don't see what is your problem with that. You seem to be bashing the kit with subtle speculative comments like "oh, plates seem too thin" "probably flexes too much" "it can't possibly last very long" "controller is probably crap" etc... all when you don't have 1st hand experience with this kit, so perhaps you should stop feeling like an authority in this kit, and if you want to bash it, get one and install it... but I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. In the meantime, I do have this kit running and running very well; and while it has its shortcomings and needs a bit of preparation work, once its in, its a fairly robust kit. My only issues have been with water/salt getting in the damn connectors... an issue for which I might just solder all cables and be done with it... (I don't plan on taking this kit ever apart if it works well...)

G.

lantice13 said:
and there are solution for hard starting middirves which I believe I posted several pages ago?
oh man, who said you can only do this electric bike thing with high amp high Kv setup? raise the voltage enough and use a low Kv motor. and you wont need to push insane amount of amps to your motor. And if you can't figure out how to make things work on a high amp ebike build, then I think you should do some more reading on the older threads here.

First you deny the fact that the mounting hardware is under built at stock configuration, 2nd that it doesent flex....cool you found the solution to reduce the flex, but it still flexes according to your earlier post.... now 3rd, you dont believe the drive is powerfull enough to snap your chain the way you do gear shift.... then recently snapped a chain......4th wanted a less complex ebike setup so they don't break but dont want to hear anything about going single speed mid drive with proper reduction, which other builders are successful doing https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=47054also don't like hub motors, so you like cyclone mid drives since it's less complex and too few places that it can fail but in reality the kit is very complex and has alot of potential points of failure? we havent started with wear and tear yet on high powered mid drives...... Man why are you even on this forum if you cant take other peoples criticism about your build? Sounds like a fanatic of a certain brand. As I recall, you are the same way with your GNG gen2 till you found out yourself it's falling apart left and right. I suggest trying out/building a few other style of ebike so that you have a better understanding how other setup works.
 
Everyone just chill out. It's just a bicycle ...
Only people who actually own the kit should really comment about it, just let It be. Simple as that.
 
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