New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Anyone got a link to the 0.19 setup and configuration guide ? I need to reset to a default configuration as my speed reading is faulty again. I have had to do anything configuration wise on the KTLCD3 since installing 0.19 a couple of years ago. It might have even been 3 years ago !
 
I've done it!!! I've read every single post in this thread. Can you tell me where I collect my prize please. 8) :wink:

Sadly got no questions for anyone...

Tic-tac containers, what a eco idea. :D good one.

Gordon
 
I have just fitted a new TZDZ2 to my wife's MTB, took it for a test ride and No Assist. After sifting through this excellent forum I came across how to access the torque pre-set. On the kit fixed to my bike I get around 90 but on this one I get zero. I dismantled the motor to see if it was anything obvious, loose connections? Nothing obvious to my eye. I have got in touch with the vendor (on Aliexpress) but not sure how successful that will be..... If anyone has any ideas how I go about fixing this I would be very grateful.
Thanks.RE.pngRE1.png
 
I have had the occasional instance when I have plugged in and had no assist and removing the battery and replacing it has solved the issue?
 
Worth mentioning again...but when you "power up" the motor, make sure you don't have your feet on the pedals/cranks. The torque sensor needs to have zero pressure to calibrate and function properly. This needs to be done every time you power on/off.
 
Don Guiden said:
I have just fitted a new TZDZ2 to my wife's MTB, took it for a test ride and No Assist. After sifting through this excellent forum I came across how to access the torque pre-set. On the kit fixed to my bike I get around 90 but on this one I get zero. I dismantled the motor to see if it was anything obvious, loose connections? Nothing obvious to my eye. I have got in touch with the vendor (on Aliexpress) but not sure how successful that will be..... If anyone has any ideas how I go about fixing this I would be very grateful.
Thanks.RE.pngRE1.png
You may want to remove the torque sensor and give it a good cleaning. Mine had the same zero readings as yours on a brand new motor which I fixed by simply replacing the whole part. But now that I'm thinking of it, my torque sensor coils were smothered in gear grease. In everyone else's pictures the coils don't look greased, so maybe that was the problem?
 
Thanks for all the replies. I have tried them all and it still doesn't work. I am in contact with the seller so hopefully they send me a replacement.
 
feketehegyi said:
fyi
[youtube]byROzyWJNaY[/youtube]

Have you done many miles on the Bluetooth system now?

Really like the idea, are there anymore details available? Like if you don't use the app on a journey does the motor remember your last settings or is there some default settings?
 
stek692003 said:
Have you done many miles on the Bluetooth system now?

Really like the idea, are there anymore details available? Like if you don't use the app on a journey does the motor remember your last settings or is there some default settings?
I have two bluetooth solutions for the TSDZ2. This watchOS uses ble and my Android app uses classic bt. With this latter I've already done many miles and it remembers the last settings of course.
This watchOS app is a prototype now. My initial test results show that ble does not work in the background with watchOS.
 
feketehegyi said:
stek692003 said:
Have you done many miles on the Bluetooth system now?

Really like the idea, are there anymore details available? Like if you don't use the app on a journey does the motor remember your last settings or is there some default settings?
I have two bluetooth solutions for the TSDZ2. This watchOS uses ble and my Android app uses classic bt. With this latter I've already done many miles and it remembers the last settings of course.
This watchOS app is a prototype now. My initial test results show that ble does not work in the background with watchOS.

Thanks for the reply, is there a guide anywhere for the android version. This seems like a simple way to reduce cables on my bike.
 
Tefoonez said:
I’m confused 🤔 😄 how does the tsdz communicate with the watch and how is the motor moving with no one pedalling?
I've attached a BT05 (HM-10) ble module to the display cable and then through this connection can communicate with the watch.
I've patched the factory default firmware. One of the new features is that it can receive a value which starts the motor on a given rpm.
 
stek692003 said:
feketehegyi said:
stek692003 said:
Have you done many miles on the Bluetooth system now?

Really like the idea, are there anymore details available? Like if you don't use the app on a journey does the motor remember your last settings or is there some default settings?
I have two bluetooth solutions for the TSDZ2. This watchOS uses ble and my Android app uses classic bt. With this latter I've already done many miles and it remembers the last settings of course.
This watchOS app is a prototype now. My initial test results show that ble does not work in the background with watchOS.

Thanks for the reply, is there a guide anywhere for the android version. This seems like a simple way to reduce cables on my bike.
First you need to create a cable where in case of my Android app you'll need to connect a classic bt module (eg. HC-05). Then you'll need the well known programing cable too to upload my patched factory default firmware. Then you can use the Android app. There're lot's of features. You can check my videos.
 
What causes this wear, and is there a proper fix for it?

My bike have been squeaking like clown shoes lately, something that I see other have had problems with as well. Today I finally got to taking the drive side apart, finding that the plastic cover have been worn down so it's soon a hole in it. I've refitted everything, making sure it's tight and that every gasket is in place, but from what I can see it's still really tight. No squeaking yet, but there's lube all over it at the moment, and I expect it to be back once that it worn away.

There's some play in the crank, but that's been there from the beginning and I was told it was normal.

EDIT: I also upgrade to latest firmware, and what a difference! I was on 0.6 something, and never managed to get the power curve as I wanted so I had huge steps between 1 and 2, big to 4, small to 5 and the rest was almost not detectable. Now it's smooth all the way, with 1 hardly noticeable - just as I want it. Great job!
 

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kporkus said:
I noticed the manufacture date on my 850c display is March 2021 and it says v5.2 - so I'm wondering whether this is a new revision the firmware is not compatible with.

Apologies I found the post where this was previously discussed (I did try searching, I swear!)

I am using this fork which has a version compiled for the 2021 850C https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-860C/releases

I have the same problem. Has anyone found the problem or point me to a solution?
 

That made me laugh once I realised what was happening. You have just invented a new musical instrument. :lol:

...and you can easily take it to your concert venue.
 
frenchie said:
what's the difference running a 8ah battery vs 12ah battery with these motors? in terms of the 48v one
thanks
Assuming you are pulling 12Ah average, means that 8Ah will loose more energy internally as the internal resistance shoild be higher.

If you pull like 18Ah, some cells has a so big internal resistance that you will lost 25% of power on the battery inside, like you will use 100% of battery power while the motor is using only 75%.
You see this lost because the battery voltage drops when you pull more current. That is the way we calculate the battery internal resistance and then calculate the battery state of charge, since we need to account with the energy lost inside the battery: Power loss = battery resistance * Current (squared)
 
frenchie said:
what's the difference running a 8ah battery vs 12ah battery with these motors? in terms of the 48v one
thanks
384Wh vs 576Wh, meaning your traveldistance will be different.
It depends of your personal use like speed, terrain and assistlevel, but think about 50km vs 75km with about 8Wh/km
casainho said:
....
If you pull like 18Ah, some cells has a so big internal resistance that you will lost 25% of power on the battery inside,....
Aren't you confusing current with capacity?
 
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