New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[hego]

Casainho two questions:

a- The conexión into the controller for the termal sensor LM35 operation are diferents points of the usually documentaion. Where take the +5v?

b- There is any problem with this sensor when we use back the stock firmware. Any problem or interference?

Thank´s

I have the same question,

The connection point in the controller for the LM35 sensor is different from the "temp sensor" documentation in the wiki. Are the two points + 5v?

Is there a problem with this sensor when we use the original firmware? Any problem or interference?

On wiki there is a picture showing were to wire the 3 signals. I can't understand your question.

The info in WIKI is correct. I have problem with yours pics... are a few diferent. Th wiki is perfect. There is not problem.

Thank´s

 

[Retrorockit]

I've got a photo up my Trek TSDZ2 build. I seem to have created a Goth Bike.
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/main-forum/diy-discussion/82828-trek-navigator-400-igh-tsdz2-project/page3

 

[la8rat]

I've got a photo up my Trek TSDZ2 build. I seem to have created a Goth Bike.
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/main-forum/diy-discussion/82828-trek-navigator-400-igh-tsdz2-project/page3

hi

your bike sounds interesting from your write up. unfortunately non of the pictures worked at me end.

 

[Retrorockit]

There is sometimes a delay posting photos at that site due to their spam filter. The bike photo is up now. They keep dropping the chainring shots. Probably because they sell similar products at Luna Cycles, the host there.

 

[Pedrito]

Hello at the end and installed the tsdz2 48v 750w, I tested it on the street but what little I tried is great, everything went perfect except the chain line that is fatal with the series plate and wanted to put a 34 or 36, what do you recommend me to improve the chain line, what could I do?

 

[casainho]

Hello at the end and installed the tsdz2 48v 750w, I tested it on the street but what little I tried is great, everything went perfect except the chain line that is fatal with the series plate and wanted to put a 34 or 36, what do you recommend me to improve the chain line, what could I do?

About the battery pack, make sure you are using the best cells that can provide 3.6Ah and not like others 2.5Ah. Because you maybe can save 44% of the size and weight of that big battery pack.

 

[BeTon75]

Hi all,

I have a TSDZ2 on my cargo long john bike and I am extremely happy with it. It has the XH18 display and a big 14aH battery. It is the 36v 350W version.

Since yesterday it started to behave strange, upon start up, it would work, but after I stop pedaling for a few seconds, the assistance is gone. After a restart it works again, until I stop pedaling, etc etc.

So after a full battery charge, and disconnecting/connecting of the connectors, it now shows an empty battery and zero speed, and no assistance when pedaling. After disconnecting/connecting the speed sensor connector, the battery shows full again, but still no speed indication, and no assistance.

Any ideas? My thought would be either the speed or the torque sensor, or both... is there a way to test these sensors separately?

Thanks!

 

[Pedrito]

Hello at the end and installed the tsdz2 48v 750w, I tested it on the street but what little I tried is great, everything went perfect except the chain line that is fatal with the series plate and wanted to put a 34 or 36, what do you recommend me to improve the chain line, what could I do?

About the battery pack, make sure you are using the best cells that can provide 3.6Ah and not like others 2.5Ah. Because you maybe can save 44% of the size and weight of that big battery pack.

for now the battery is new and I'll leave it until it breaks down, but thanks for the advice

 

[hefest]

Hi all,

I have a TSDZ2 on my cargo long john bike and I am extremely happy with it. It has the XH18 display and a big 14aH battery. It is the 36v 350W version.

Since yesterday it started to behave strange, upon start up, it would work, but after I stop pedaling for a few seconds, the assistance is gone. After a restart it works again, until I stop pedaling, etc etc.

So after a full battery charge, and disconnecting/connecting of the connectors, it now shows an empty battery and zero speed, and no assistance when pedaling. After disconnecting/connecting the speed sensor connector, the battery shows full again, but still no speed indication, and no assistance.

Any ideas? My thought would be either the speed or the torque sensor, or both... is there a way to test these sensors separately?

Thanks!

If I were you, I'd start with playing with position of the speed sensor, closer or farther away from magnet. Next thing is to check all connections. Than I would go through this complete thread trying to find someone with similar experience. The last thing would be to replace controller.

 

[knutselmaaster]

Hi all,

I have a TSDZ2 on my cargo long john bike and I am extremely happy with it. It has the XH18 display and a big 14aH battery. It is the 36v 350W version.

Since yesterday it started to behave strange, upon start up, it would work, but after I stop pedaling for a few seconds, the assistance is gone. After a restart it works again, until I stop pedaling, etc etc.

So after a full battery charge, and disconnecting/connecting of the connectors, it now shows an empty battery and zero speed, and no assistance when pedaling. After disconnecting/connecting the speed sensor connector, the battery shows full again, but still no speed indication, and no assistance.

Any ideas? My thought would be either the speed or the torque sensor, or both... is there a way to test these sensors separately?

Thanks!

You can try it without the speed sensor connected. If the sensor is the source of the problem than it would work again.

 

[Retrorockit]

Hello at the end and installed the tsdz2 48v 750w, I tested it on the street but what little I tried is great, everything went perfect except the chain line that is fatal with the series plate and wanted to put a 34 or 36, what do you recommend me to improve the chain line, what could I do?

Since that looks like an offroad setup I will assume your chainline issue is with the lower gears.
I made a thinner metal cover to replace the thick plastic one and shimmed my chain ring in closer to the motor. Just take what you can get there The next thing would be to see if the motor assist allows you to run fewer gears in the back. Could an 11-13-15-18t series set be replaced with 12t-16t pair This will allow putting some of the unused gears and washers in the back as spacers and with a longer limit screw improve the chainline in the lower gears. With the motor you could go from 1x10 to 1x7 or 8 speed and have plenty of gears. You might need a derailer hanger spacer to allow the derailer to accept the larger cogs in their new location.

 

[BeTon75]

Hi all,

I have a TSDZ2 on my cargo long john bike and I am extremely happy with it. It has the XH18 display and a big 14aH battery. It is the 36v 350W version.

Since yesterday it started to behave strange, upon start up, it would work, but after I stop pedaling for a few seconds, the assistance is gone. After a restart it works again, until I stop pedaling, etc etc.

So after a full battery charge, and disconnecting/connecting of the connectors, it now shows an empty battery and zero speed, and no assistance when pedaling. After disconnecting/connecting the speed sensor connector, the battery shows full again, but still no speed indication, and no assistance.

Any ideas? My thought would be either the speed or the torque sensor, or both... is there a way to test these sensors separately?

Thanks!

I played around with the distance between the magnet and the sensor. Initially I thought the closer the better , so the distance was less than 1mm. With the rust on the magnet, the distance may have been even less. I moved it out a few mil, and everything seems to work again. Hopefully it will stay like this, but so far, thanks for the advice!

 

[Alpharesearch]

I noticed there are CDB adapters, would any 50t CDN work and can the belt be reused?

I believe the Gates goes on a 130BCD spyder. Get one of those for the TSDZ2 and it might just all work with the same belt and cog. If you do it, keep us posted. Looks pretty sweet!

I did it and it all worked out. I can confirm the TSDZ2 and PRIORITY CONTINUUM ONYX are compatible to each other. I did 50 miles so far and everything behaves as expected.

Its not a speed demon, but climbing hills at 10 mph I had to push before is great. The max speed spinning in the air is 33 mph. On flat ground it is easy to get 20 to 25 mph and on small hills it gets 15 to 20 mph.

The belt drive is really silent and the continuous shifter is a nice feature. My commute to work is only a total of 10 miles per day. But it's very hilly where I'm and it's working out for me.

I was able to reuse all the parts like the belt and CDN. I installed the CDN on the inside of the 130BCD, but to get enough clearance I had to add flat M5 washers between motor and spyder. I clamped the backlight cable between bike and motor and had to cut and splice, but this was the only hiccup. The double kickstand and the rear rack are optional accessories, but well worth it.

Here are some pictures:
https://imgur.com/gallery/uNu37x0

Ps: Thank you Rydon for your support via email.

 

[Rydon]

I did it and it all worked out. I can confirm the TSDZ2 and PRIORITY CONTINUUM ONYX are compatible to each other. I did 50 miles so far and everything behaves as expected.

Congratulations! That is awesome. I count five huge wins: 1. TSDZ2 mid-drive motor, 2. Flexible Open Source Firmware. 3. Gates carbon drive. 4. N380 continuous transmission, 5. Super Shark battery.

Many have tried for a mid-drive conversion with Gates carbon belt but this is one of the few successes I am aware of due to the +-3mm chain-line tolerance.

Bafang mid-drives have a worse chain-line than a TSDZ2 so they are even harder. Some have started having success using the Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 and spacing the cassette hub out to the perfect chain-line but that is the only Gates success I have seen for Bafang other than the Rohloff.

Eyebyesickle noticed that this bike looked like a great candidate as well.

Thanks for sharing. I am sure others will be enticed by this build as well.

 

[Retrorockit]

I noticed there are CDB adapters, would any 50t CDN work and can the belt be reused?

I believe the Gates goes on a 130BCD spyder. Get one of those for the TSDZ2 and it might just all work with the same belt and cog. If you do it, keep us posted. Looks pretty sweet!

I did it and it all worked out. I can confirm the TSDZ2 and PRIORITY CONTINUUM ONYX are compatible to each other. I did 50 miles so far and everything behaves as expected.

Its not a speed demon, but climbing hills at 10 mph I had to push before is great. The max speed spinning in the air is 33 mph. On flat ground it is easy to get 20 to 25 mph and on small hills it gets 15 to 20 mph.

The belt drive is really silent and the continuous shifter is a nice feature. My commute to work is only a total of 10 miles per day. But it's very hilly where I'm and it's working out for me.

I was able to reuse all the parts like the belt and CDN. I installed the CDN on the inside of the 130BCD, but to get enough clearance I had to add flat M5 washers between motor and spyder. I clamped the backlight cable between bike and motor and had to cut and splice, but this was the only hiccup. The double kickstand and the rear rack are optional accessories, but well worth it.

Here are some pictures:
https://imgur.com/gallery/uNu37x0

Ps: Thank you Rydon for your support via email.

Looking at the photos I would suggest something more agressive than a bicycle bell. At 25mph you need something that can be heard from a distance. Air horns take up a bit of space, but there are some electronic options that can work well. People will ignore a bike bell if it's very far away. They're expecting 10mph speeds. Maybe you're riding in a more civilized place than I am.

 

[Retrorockit]

Hello at the end and installed the tsdz2 48v 750w, I tested it on the street but what little I tried is great, everything went perfect except the chain line that is fatal with the series plate and wanted to put a 34 or 36, what do you recommend me to improve the chain line, what could I do?

Since you're planning on changing chainring size you might want a gear calculator to see what new casette will be useful to you.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
To use it put in your tire size, and select speed at 90rpm for TSDZ2. Enter your old and new chainring sizes and you'll see how the gears compare.

 

[Pedrito]

hello today finally I tested the bike more thoroughly and made a route of 18km and 600 meters of altitude and say that it was great, I am very happy not to warmed the engine nothing with a ratio of changes of 34-11 / 42 9 speeds, I've made 32km total to the bike and only spent 30% of the battery, I used it most of the time in tour mode but also had to put turbo mode on some costs I'm usually happy with the purchase

 

[Pedrito]

I have a question, every few km you disassemble the engine to grease it

 

[graham.m.mcintyre]

Hi there,

I'm going to be converting a steel touring bike to an e-bike and I've decided on using the TSDZ2 for the conversion. Right now, I'm just stuck on whether I should go with 500 W or 750 W motor. Does anyone have any experience using both on a similar build? If so, is there a notable difference in speed or hill-climbing ability?

Sorry if this has already been discussed, hard to commit to reading through a 191-page thread to find the answer...

G

 

[bergerandfries]

Hi there,

I'm going to be converting a steel touring bike to an e-bike and I've decided on using the TSDZ2 for the conversion. Right now, I'm just stuck on whether I should go with 500 W or 750 W motor. Does anyone have any experience using both on a similar build? If so, is there a notable difference in speed or hill-climbing ability?

Sorry if this has already been discussed, hard to commit to reading through a 191-page thread to find the answer...

G

Graham, I have an old Maruishi road bike that I converted. I got the 750w version, a 52v battery, and ran the stock firmware for 150 miles. I just switched to the qmarco 0.18E open source but haven't ridden it much yet. I do recommend that you get the hidden brake sensors for your brakes to slow the wear of the blue gear in the motor. I got the throttle version motor too so that I can add the LM35 temp sensor easily later. I haven't seen many road bike versions posted here, but I've been happy with mine.

 

[casainho]

I got a private message that I would like to answer but public here -- I usually ignore private messages because I don't do private technical support.

Hey
What Battery Back/ Cell do you recommenced getting for this Kit?
I have the 750w version. Still trying to find a battery
Thanks

I use custom made battery packs with the most high capacity cells available on the market, of 3600mah each cell and I buy them here/this ones: https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/18650-size/lg-inr18650m36-3600mah-10a.html

This battery packs are made by a friend on his shop. The smaller pack I use are 52V, 14S3P and I also have other big packs like 14S5P for long travels of like 100kms/day.

I started to use PSWPOWER most cheap battery packs but their cells were only 2500mah, so the ones I use of 3600mah are 44% smaller (and 44% light ??).

 

[Makosan]

Hi Guys!

New to the forum, I'm thinking about electrifying my 2012 Surly Krampus 29+ 1x10 with a 48V/750W TSDZ2 (73mm BB). My biggest concern is the chainline and availability of smaller chainrings, say 38t, and their offsets and how to get it all work smoothly with a 1x10 transmission. In this build with Bafang BBSHD and Krampus, the chainline turned out challenging. Can I expect similar challenges with the TSDZ2 chainline with stock chainring? What alternatives do I have to correct the chainline and retain the 1x10? Are there any smaller chainrings or spiders available that "wraps around" the clutch nicely inwards and helps adjusting the chainline neatly (like the Lekkie Bling Blings for Bafang)?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Retrorockit]

Hi Guys!

New to the forum, I'm thinking about electrifying my 2012 Surly Krampus 29+ 1x10 with a 48V/750W TSDZ2 (73mm BB). My biggest concern is the chainline and availability of smaller chainrings, say 38t, and their offsets and how to get it all work smoothly with a 1x10 transmission. In this build with Bafang BBSHD and Krampus, the chainline turned out challenging. Can I expect similar challenges with the TSDZ2 chainline with stock chainring? What alternatives do I have to correct the chainline and retain the 1x10? Are there any smaller chainrings or spiders available that "wraps around" the clutch nicely inwards and helps adjusting the chainline neatly (like the Lekkie Bling Blings for Bafang)?

Thanks in advance!

I had to tackle the 73mm BB shell and chainline issues on my build, but 26" wheels made it simpler. Also it's an IGH street bike so very different in that regard.
1- I had my LBS cut the Rh side of the BB shell down with a BB facing cutter until the motor touched the frame. A lot of work since the cutter wasn't designed for deep cuts. This of course requires some comittment on your part.
2- I had to go up to a 44t chainring to fit around the outside of the motor housing, and made a thin 28ga. metal cover for the wiring area to get some depth there. With a multispeed chain 45mm chain line is possible.
3- With a 750W assist you don't really need 10 gears. Using a gear calculator pick the highest and lowest gears you actually need and then maybe 5 or 6 in between. This will allow you to build a thinner casette to get a better chainline in the rear. Narrow/Wide chainrings tolerate chainline offset better then plain ones. I haven't seen any manufactured offset chainrings for the TSDZ2. I had to have one built.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
Here's the thread on my build.
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/main-forum/diy-discussion/82828-trek-navigator-400-igh-tsdz2-project
With 3 wide tires you may not need to go in as far as I did. With a 42t or smaller you just can't gain much in chainline. A lot will depend on how wide a rear hub Surly used on that. A wider hub let's the casette stick out further.
The BBSHD needs at least a 42T to move in past the gears so chainline is always harder with small chainrings.
I just put some of my photos back up in the TSDZ2 thread IDK how long they'll stay. I used a different method to load them. The offset 44t chainring and the bike are up now.

 

[eyebyesickle]

check this out! It's simple enough, but I'm pretty excited to be able to run high power lights directly from the motor and controlled by the display! I'm always looking to squeeze any slick upgrade in that I can, but this is very useful in particular to me to avoid potholes etc! I got a slick way to mount light bars that I worked up too... I'll share some more info on everything soon, I just had to show this though...
Have fun out there guys... Stay safe!

[youtube]ulngZYuXM70[/youtube]

UPDATE - HOW TO - INTERNAL RELAY MODIFICATION FOR BATTERY CURRENT SUPPLIED INTEGRATED LIGHTING!!!

[youtube]RuHUcbF1ClE[/youtube]

here it is - the video is definitely not the best - this was the first time I have used this type of camera/mount - and it was hard to deal with - maybe I should have practiced haha. it also took ages longer than I thought, because I kept trying to work by looking through the camera screen to make sure I captured the shot- ANYWAY - enough excuses - the concept is great IMO - I am very happy with this modification.

There is ANOTHER WAY to perform this modification... it is not my recommendation, but behind the chain ring is the small compartment with two 2.5mm allen screws - remove this and you see where the wires are sealed/exiting the motor housing - there is also a hollow space here you can fit the relay in, and you can splice the wires here - but then they are on the outside of the motor, and not near as solid/waterproof - even if you take care with the technique, it can even be hard to refit the compartment back flush over it - so I REALLY recommend doing the modification as shown in the video! Much cleaner and reliable.

Enjoy!

 

[el_proletario]

Was a long march. I completely took the thing apart. First changed the blue gear. Didn't show any improvement. Than I check every bearing and noticed one is making strange noises.

Thanks for the info. Depending on the battery voltage - which I assume changes the resonant frequencies - I can feel the motor through my handle bars ... low quality bearings makes some sense to me from a lay perspective. If you turn your noisy bearing by hand, does it feel rough?

Also is there a guide to dismantling to get at the bearings? or is it as simple as following your nose?

Cheers
Steve

Very similar to my problem. I always have 2 sounds: normal motor whining, and some deeper annoying grinding you can feel through the entire bike. Same grinding can be felt when turning the defective bearing.

Hello,
Which bearing was it precisely? Did you solve it by replacing the bearing only?
I have the same issue you describe (normal motor whining sound and the gear sound on top of it).
I sent it to Italy for repair.(seller pswpower) It came back with the same noise they didn't do anything... They only changed my power cable and put the wrong firmware of non-coaster brake version.
I have now a spare blue gear but I want to change any suspect bearing at the same time.

Basically warranty is totally useless with Chinese sellers, I'll use all the info on this thread to fix it.

Thanks