New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Waynemarlow said:
Retrorockit said:
Waynemarlow said:
Can anyone recommend a way of getting my standard 42 tooth front sprocket down to say a 36 tooth and still get a reasonable chain line ?

The 42 chainring and a wide range cassette would be the way to get lower speed. It depends on what rear speeds you're running. Older 8-9 speeds require a derailer hanger extension. Newer 11 speeds may have derailers available to run these wide casettes. Sunrace11-40 is the widest 8 speed
I know of. But I think 46-50t low is available in the newer sizes.
My bike is 1x8 so I haven't looked into the newer setups that much. But the Sheldon Brown Gear Calculator will allow you to see where you will end up with this mod.
https://sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
In gear units select speed @ 90rpm for a TSDZ2 and the drop down menu has the available casettes to try out.

As soon as you get out onto these really big rear gears, you start to get into the situation of long long rear derailleurs which from experience you wipe off on rutted tracks and the likes. 40T at the back seems to have the derailleurs " hooked " enough to keep them up out the way a bit.

SunRace now does a specific 11 - 42 T rear cassette but as an 8 Spd. I tried it but for some reason the 8spd shifter I had wouldn't change it correctly, with the 10spd I have working fine I gave up relatively easily but wouldn't have minded being able to use the 8spd chains which are more chunky and better suited to the power output.

I'm also happy to lose the top end anyway as my bike is no lightening road bunny with its 2.8 knobbly tyres. As soon as the adapter for the 38T front gear arrives, I'll fit it and report back.
The long derailers are as much for triple front rings as large casettes. I'm running an XTR 8 speed mid cage derailer ( short cage in MTB speak) with a 50t ring and 11-40 casette. I didn't use the adapter but had 2 aftermarket derailer hangers cut and spliced together to make a longer one. From the photo it looks like your hanger is part of the frame. The 8 speed XTR "short" derailer was popular with downhill racers who run just one chainring. Obviously this is road gearing and I use Rapid Rise gripshift parts so I can dump a bunch of gears sitting still in traffic. The only issue I have (with a BBSHD) is I needed to use Shimano cogs for the top 2 places because the Sunrace parts won't hold the chain at 1500W. I need the low gears so I can ride among pedestrians with power off in the city, but have a 35MPH top gear when needed, so my chainline favors the top gears. I can get away with a flat 50t ring due to that. I also need a roller chainguide to keep it together.
 
phm2000 said:
hego said:
The torque sensor is death again.Is the second time!!!

The coils lost their antifriction tape.Is destroyed.

May be the bad chain line make a lateral force and bend the sensor.The three little springs can´t controller the gap between the coils.I find the movable sensor coil (and chainring) too deepset/sunken.It moved/shift in time and use.

Anyone with similar experience?

Because is the second time, I buy a new motor.The old motor will be a spare parts.

Cheers
How many kilometers did you do before torque sensor destroyed ?
My torque sensor was destroyed after 20 kilometers ! Second one has 50 kilometer, I hope it will continue many years...

Same experience but the coil tape is fine. Managed about 20km the first time before it pulled out the plug. Rewound the springs and refitted whilst I wait for a new one from China and I got about 10km this time (loss of power on my way to work and error 2 this morning). I did notice that there was some wobble in the ring like it was out of true (maybe 1-2mm). I'm wondering if there is a fine balance between too close and too far that needs to be hit during installation and the little wobble is making it even more critical.

I'd be interested in finding out what the gap is between the inner casing and the bearing mount. When installing I have been trying to line up how far to push the torque sensor back in using the bearing in the middle of the crank casing. Maybe I need to go 1mm further?

I'll film myself disassembling it this time in case it is helpful to anyone else in the future
 
Has anyone given thought to using the excellent App BLEvo which is setup for the Levo, but it is after all only a Bluetooth connection, to change our instrumentation on the TSDZ2. A SW102 as the main motor control and Blevo on a disused phone ( we all have those in our drawers ) would just about be the optimum for me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWDJzwaN7vw
 
Narcoleptic said:
Hi all!

I have some problems when starting the motor after leaving the bike outdoors now in the winter when cold and wet.

Bike is usually stored indoors nice and cozy and mostly start up at first try in this case.

After parking outside in humid - not even rainy - conditions, maybe just for 15 minutes after a 30 min ride, pressing "i" makes the VLCD-5 display turn on and then off again after a few seconds. This can be repeated ten or more times before it stays on. After starting like this the lights tend to be off for a random number of minutes - up to ten or more - even through display light is on, and speedometer mostly show "0.0" or "E2".

I remove the battery and bring it with me even for short stops because of theft risk, and then protect the connector with a short piece of snugly fitting PVC-hose with a closed end. Have protected most connections i can figure out how to with self-fusing tape but maybe not made a über neat job of it.

Any tips to further protect the system from humidity creeping in (wich seems the only logical cause since this do NOT happen in dry conditions) appreciated. How about the display and the thumb controller themselves for example?

Cheers!

/Narco

I also have this exact same phenomena, but I didn't link it to humid conditions yet. A couple of times it has even turned off during riding, but only after a short time after starting the ride. Once it is "warmed up", it seems to be problem-free.
 
Waynemarlow said:
Has anyone given thought to using the excellent App BLEvo which is setup for the Levo, but it is after all only a Bluetooth connection, to change our instrumentation on the TSDZ2. A SW102 as the main motor control and Blevo on a disused phone ( we all have those in our drawers ) would just about be the optimum for me.

[youtube]WWDJzwaN7vw[/youtube]
That would be a good idea. I use a cheap and small Android phone with this software that is very feature complete, no ads, free and Open Source:

[youtube]lpBjLXF65AM[/youtube]

For TSDZ2 and SW102, we need to find developers interested to make the app. Maybe just use that software I use, since it is OpenSource and create a top layer showing the TSDZ2 data, etc.
 
bagirafutar said:
Hi,

I own an Omnium cargo bike, with a 750w, 48V TSDZ2 mounted on it. I am thinking of selling it and getting a Riese und Müller Packster 80, with a Performance Line CX gen2 motor. I go uphill a lot.

I once had the opportunity to ride the Packster 80, but only for about 5 minutes. The Bosch drive seemed to work much more "flawlessly" if I can put it this way. Although it is only a 250/350W engine, it seemed to be much stronger, delivering it's power much better. When I stopped pedaling, the motor cut off almost instanteniously. The TSDZ2 takes a noticable amount of time for the chain to come to a stop after I stop pedaling. This makes changing gears on my IGH a hassle, because I am always waiting for the motor to come to a stop.

The TSDZ2 seems to have a lot of flex somewhere inside - either the crank axle itself, or the motor somehow, I don't know for sure.

On the TSDZ2 I regularly reach the motor's max. cadence, when I loose all support from the motor. It is very annoying, because with my current gearing, my max. speed is around 34-35 km/h, after this the motor cuts off. The Bosch has much more flexibility in this concern, as I can spin the cranks faster, and still get help from the motor.


So my question comes down to this: has anyone had the chance to properly compare these two mid-drives? Is it just me feeling that the Bosch system is a much better tuned system, and is a much better feeling to ride? (Edit: I am talking about the stock firmware for the TSDZ2. I am aware of casainho's opensource firmware, but I still have 2,5 years of warranty on my drive which I do not want to void by installing it. And it also wouldn't help the flex and the cadence-issue, for example.)

Thanks!

Zoltán

Bosch performance Line isn't 250-350W.
It is rated "nominal 250W" to be legal in the EU.
Just check how fast you can empty the battery and calculate how much watt-hour it approximately consumes in an hour, take about 70% of this value to compensate for efficiency losses.
I'm pretty sure that you can easily empty a 500wh battery in less than an hour. (500Wh consumed in one hour in turbo mode, uphill =~350W motor).
 
Hi guys,

it is really nice to read the progress with the TSDZ2 firmware mods. You guys did a real great job. Especially the 850C support is great.

My question is: Is it also working with the new APT 860C Display or are there plans to support this Display?

This would be really great.
 
New on here but forum (and this thread in particular) has helped me a lot so thanks to all.

I'm close to ordering a tsdz2 from pspower . They list 48v version but not 52v.
I intend to run original firmware for a while and upgrade to osf , temp sensor and 850 display when my schedule allows.
I would like to run 52v batteries from the start.
Is it possible to use 52v battery with stock firmware on motor supplied as 48v. (Or can I modify original firmware to use 52v batteries).

Sorry if this issue has been addressed in thread already but thread is very long and my brain is fried. :)
 
Rider2000 said:
Hi guys,

it is really nice to read the progress with the TSDZ2 firmware mods. You guys did a real great job. Especially the 850C support is great.

My question is: Is it also working with the new APT 860C Display or are there plans to support this Display?

This would be really great.

I'm waiting on some 860c samples, and getting the code modifications needed for the OSF software. Will be passing on to OSF engineers... It is supposedly a very simple/minimal change in code from what I understand.

The good thing about the 860c is that it is much more visible in sunlight! Also has an extra button on the remote control button panel...
 
eyebyesickle said:
Rider2000 said:
Hi guys,

it is really nice to read the progress with the TSDZ2 firmware mods. You guys did a real great job. Especially the 850C support is great.

My question is: Is it also working with the new APT 860C Display or are there plans to support this Display?

This would be really great.

I'm waiting on some 860c samples, and getting the code modifications needed for the OSF software. Will be passing on to OSF engineers... It is supposedly a very simple/minimal change in code from what I understand.

The good thing about the 860c is that it is much more visible in sunlight! Also has an extra button on the remote control button panel...
I think I already have a 860C but as 850C. Someone sent me one 850C because the image was inverted. This display is clearly different in the colors and also has a small light sensor under the LCD, as seen on the image. The 850C board has the place for that light sensor but it is not assembled. This new version of 850C has the light sensor assembled and the LCD is clear better in the color at least, I didn't take it to outside. But this version still have the same 3 buttons.

To be clear, our firmware already works perfectly on this 850C new version, so, I guess it will also work on the 860C expect that will miss the extra button number 4.

IMG-20191008-153558-3.jpg
 
knutselmaaster said:
bagirafutar said:
Hi,

I own an Omnium cargo bike, with a 750w, 48V TSDZ2 mounted on it. I am thinking of selling it and getting a Riese und Müller Packster 80, with a Performance Line CX gen2 motor. I go uphill a lot.

I once had the opportunity to ride the Packster 80, but only for about 5 minutes. The Bosch drive seemed to work much more "flawlessly" if I can put it this way. Although it is only a 250/350W engine, it seemed to be much stronger, delivering it's power much better. When I stopped pedaling, the motor cut off almost instanteniously. The TSDZ2 takes a noticable amount of time for the chain to come to a stop after I stop pedaling. This makes changing gears on my IGH a hassle, because I am always waiting for the motor to come to a stop.

The TSDZ2 seems to have a lot of flex somewhere inside - either the crank axle itself, or the motor somehow, I don't know for sure.

On the TSDZ2 I regularly reach the motor's max. cadence, when I loose all support from the motor. It is very annoying, because with my current gearing, my max. speed is around 34-35 km/h, after this the motor cuts off. The Bosch has much more flexibility in this concern, as I can spin the cranks faster, and still get help from the motor.


So my question comes down to this: has anyone had the chance to properly compare these two mid-drives? Is it just me feeling that the Bosch system is a much better tuned system, and is a much better feeling to ride? (Edit: I am talking about the stock firmware for the TSDZ2. I am aware of casainho's opensource firmware, but I still have 2,5 years of warranty on my drive which I do not want to void by installing it. And it also wouldn't help the flex and the cadence-issue, for example.)

Thanks!

Zoltán

Bosch performance Line isn't 250-350W.
It is rated "nominal 250W" to be legal in the EU.
Just check how fast you can empty the battery and calculate how much watt-hour it approximately consumes in an hour, take about 70% of this value to compensate for efficiency losses.
I'm pretty sure that you can easily empty a 500wh battery in less than an hour. (500Wh consumed in one hour in turbo mode, uphill =~350W motor).

You should be able to raise the gearing on an IGH easily. You didn't say which one you have. But a smaller rearcog should help with the cadence issue.
Here is a gear calculator with IGH included. For gear units enter Km/h@ 90RPM
https://sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
There is also a programmable speed limit in the settings, be sure that's set high enough.
For Bafang motors they sell a shift interruptor switch that toggles the brake switch circuit for shifting. It needs to be installed in the middle of the shifter cable.
https://lunacycle.com/gearsensor-for-bafang-mid-drives/
I'm in the US, but the gearsensor is make in CZ so should be available form other sources.
It's recommended to sand the exposed cable where the sensor goes to remove any lube there so It can grip the cable better.
 
Rothar1 said:
... ordering a tsdz2 from pspower. They list 48v version but not 52v. I intend to run original firmware for a while and upgrade to osf , temp sensor and 850 display when my schedule allows. I would like to run 52v batteries from the start.

Is it possible to use 52v battery with stock firmware on motor supplied as 48v?

No, my 48V system usually has issues with a fully charged 48V battery, resulting in its typical over voltage response! Some, but not all 48V system display this issue. HhMmm, pspower listed the 52V system when I placed my order 4 months ago.
Rothar1 said:
(Or can I modify original firmware to use 52v batteries)?
It is possible to fine tune a memory setting, but all that does it adjust the charge indicator to operate properly for the battery voltage, however the over voltage issue is still there.

The 52V factory FW is available in an online repository (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1eGcBtTj8GrGQ4tDJAECr6ejMrpW2ZqvH), but when I tested it, I found that while it corrected the overvoltage issue for my 48V system, it also limited the max amps to a value lower than the max amps limit of the 48V factory FW. I guess that could/should be OK for a 52V battery to delivery the rated watts. Be sure to save your original Program, Data, and Option Byte memory before flashing the new, if you go this route.

The v0.19.0 OSF eliminated my over voltage issue with the 48V battery, but, being highly tune-able, it brings its own baggage, and, I strongly prefer the pedal assist onset performance of the factory FW.
 
I was running the Eco Cycles factory 52V firmware and then changed to the Ackmaniac fork of the VLCD5 OSF for a couple of days.

But that VLCD5 version has some problems with the motor keeping running by itself. Since that version is supposed to be an improvement over Marcoq's, I'm not sure if switching to his version is going to be any better.

So I'm considering changing back to the factory firmware again. But I'd like to know if there's anyway to customise...

1. the assist levels
2. the motor run-on duration after stopping pedalling

Thanks
 
HhMmm, pspower listed the 52V system when I placed my order 4 months ago.
Not available from German warehouse now.

Thanks for taking time to reply so comprehensively.
 
windburner said:
The v0.19.0 OSF eliminated my over voltage issue with the 48V battery, but, being highly tune-able, it brings its own baggage, and, I strongly prefer the pedal assist onset performance of the factory FW

Could you explain baggage please?
 
Hey guys had to re-register but my second motor failed. Don't know what it is. Done a few thousand miles and in dreadful British weather too. Used tape on the seam this time so no water can get in. Getting no assistance whatsoever though. Display turns on fine. I did shear off the axle and told ebird store and they sent me a replacement. In the meanwhile I used the axle from my old motor for about a thousand miles before motor died. I do notice there is some flex or springiness in the cranks. I use the bike for my work and it's getting to be a pain in the rear end, don't want to have to buy another motor or even battery.

Just want to add, the axle has done about 7000 miles between both motors.
When the motor died, it died gradually. Replaced nylon gear with brass one but it didn't fix the problem.

Could it be torque sensor. I don't mind paying for it but want to be sure.
 
manoz85 said:
Hey guys had to re-register but my second motor failed. Don't know what it is. Done a few thousand miles and in dreadful British weather too. Used tape on the seam this time so no water can get in. Getting no assistance whatsoever though. Display turns on fine. I did shear off the axle and told ebird store and they sent me a replacement. In the meanwhile I used the axle from my old motor for about a thousand miles before motor died. I do notice there is some flex or springiness in the cranks. I use the bike for my work and it's getting to be a pain in the rear end, don't want to have to buy another motor or even battery.
Install our OpenSource firmware to be able to debug further the issue -- probably some sensor is dead like the PAS or the torque sensor. Both sensors can be bought online and are relatively cheap.
 
casainho said:
manoz85 said:
Hey guys had to re-register but my second motor failed. Don't know what it is. Done a few thousand miles and in dreadful British weather too. Used tape on the seam this time so no water can get in. Getting no assistance whatsoever though. Display turns on fine. I did shear off the axle and told ebird store and they sent me a replacement. In the meanwhile I used the axle from my old motor for about a thousand miles before motor died. I do notice there is some flex or springiness in the cranks. I use the bike for my work and it's getting to be a pain in the rear end, don't want to have to buy another motor or even battery.
Install our OpenSource firmware to be able to debug further the issue -- probably some sensor is dead like the PAS or the torque sensor. Both sensors can be bought online and are relatively cheap.


Thanks for the reply, I'm using the small side mounted VLCD6 display, need the middle free for my mobile phone. afaik the firmware only runs on the big display? Should also point out that I only really use 1 or 2 assistance level and use my own power mostly for sprinting between restaurants to customers. The axle sheared off when I stood on the pedals at traffic lights on a slight uphill
 
If it would be a problem with the torque or pas sensor, I assume walk assistance should still work?
What voltage / wattage is your motor ?
Did your first motor die due to water penetration in the motor?
 
obcd said:
If it would be a problem with the torque or pas sensor, I assume walk assistance should still work?
What voltage / wattage is your motor ?
Did your first motor die due to water penetration in the motor?

Thanks for the reply. I went and tried the walk assist. I can hear the motor whirring but there is no movement in the chainring therefore the bike does not move.

My first motor was full of corrosion and mold when I took it apart so I assume it was water damage? sealed the second one with tape on the seams. There is tiny white specks on the inside but nothing major.
 
Can you hear the motor when it should normally assist?
Maybe you have a broken blue gearing?
(or did you check that one already?)
 
obcd said:
Can you hear the motor when it should normally assist?
Maybe you have a broken blue gearing?
(or did you check that one already?)

No I can't hear it. I was trying several times earlier and I heard it maybe one or twice but nothing now. I replaced the blue gear with a new brass one.

What I'm wondering about still is why is there so much flex in the cranks. If I put the front brake on I can move them several centimetres when I put my foot on them
 
manoz85 said:
No I can't hear it. I was trying several times earlier and I heard it maybe one or twice but nothing now. I replaced the blue gear with a new brass one.

What I'm wondering about still is why is there so much flex in the cranks. If I put the front brake on I can move them several centimetres when I put my foot on them

Maybe the ratchet clutch thing is broken?
 
Rothar1 said:
windburner said:
The v0.19.0 OSF eliminated my over voltage issue with the 48V battery, but, being highly tune-able, it brings its own baggage, and, I strongly prefer the pedal assist onset performance of the factory FW

Could you explain baggage please?

I'm not sure if you are asking for my definition of baggage or what I meant my its use, so, I give both.

By baggage, I meant extra, not always necessarily desirable, stuff. (If that was all you wanted to know, sorry for the wordy remainder.)

We needed the OSF primarily for the previously mentioned voltage issue of our 48V system which required the fully charged voltage to be lowered by ~0.2V in order to eliminate the over-voltage reaction. Secondarily, the original VLCD6 display only displays whole number increments for the odometer and trip meters, thus, from the display you can't properly answer the question: "How far back was X?". Our physical install space is limited (why the VLCD6 was selected), so when the SW102 became available, offering fractional distance units, I decided to try the OSF with it, and this provided relief for both concerns.

Now for the 'baggage'. The original performance of the factory firmware (FFW) fit our riding needs quite nicely with the four assist levels of the VLCD6. The onset of pedal assist, when needed, is smooth and quick, especially from a 'standing' start, and the walk mode has an equally smooth onset. Assist Level 1 was used for solo and Assist 2 for dual, except when more power was needed for hill climbing. Thus, once converted to the OSF, significant time was committed to tuning back to levels/performance similar to the FFW. Unfortunately, settings are reset with each update to the SW102 OSF FW, so, you can imagine the fun there. While the power output of the assist levels can be quickly matched, the nice smooth and quick onset of the pedal assist and walk mode, could not be achieved with v0.19.0 FW, to which the SW102 is currently limited. By enabling 'Power Assist w/o Cadence" a quick onset can be achieved for Pedal Assist, but the mere act of mounting the feet to the pedals often resulted in activation, so this is best left disabled, unless a torque threshold for activation setting is available (which I think I read is now available in v0.20.x, as well as the eMTB mode which eliminates the need to switch assist levels), but again, the SW102 is currently limited to v0.19.0.

So, don't take my use of 'baggage' as a hard knock on the OSF, as, it is still installed! We just have to work harder longer when starting out from a cold start as compared to the FFW, and I don't use the walk mode as it sounds like it puts more of a strain on the unit/drivetrain. Both of these are of higher importance interacting with traffic at 4-way stop intersections, especially when mild hills are involved. I am waiting patiently :lol:/looking forward to evaluate the v0.20.0 OSF with the SW102, which promises the capability to eliminating most, if not all, of the 'baggage'.

Our use case demonstrates the capability of the 48V 750W TSDZ2 to handle significant loads, given our moderate to heavily loaded tandem trike, two up. We have not yet had any heat issues with either the FFW or the OSF, but we are still building our stamina for longer rides. The compact, near hidden nature of the TSDZ2 has shown itself by the fact that we have been stopped for a chat about the 'unusual' trike several times and on three occasions the parting words were something like, "That thing would be even better if you had a motor on it!" :wink:

Lastly, I just received an email from our local bike shop saying that Terra-Trike will offer an e-assist unit for the Rover starting next year for only $2495US+installation. I got a good laugh out of that one!!! I guess we'll buy a whole new unit instead of replacing sprang clutches and torque sensors.
 
LeftCoastNurd said:
manoz85 said:
No I can't hear it. I was trying several times earlier and I heard it maybe one or twice but nothing now. I replaced the blue gear with a new brass one.

What I'm wondering about still is why is there so much flex in the cranks. If I put the front brake on I can move them several centimetres when I put my foot on them

Maybe the ratchet clutch thing is broken?.

Could be, am working on my normal bikes at the mo. When I get home I can take off the drive side crank, chainring and dustcover and then run the walk mode and see what happens? I'm assuming that's how I check the clutch is gone?
 
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