New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[jeff.page.rides]

I installed my shift sensor and wow does it shift great. The second I push my shift button the motor stops it shifts fast, smooth, and quiet. Now the problem is it powers off for about 2 seconds and about 2 revolutions at 75 RPM before the power comes back on, that's a long dead-spot. I am using an LCD3 with version 20 beta 1.
But very soon I'll be moving to the 860C and casainho's latest firmware.
Is there a way in the firmware that we can speed up this power back on, to only a half a second?

Will this setting help?

Motor acceleration adjustment 0 %
Default value = 0 %
36 volt motor, 36 volt battery = 35 %
36 volt motor, 48 volt battery = 5 %
36 volt motor, 52 volt battery = 0 %
48 volt motor, 36 volt battery = 45 %
48 volt motor, 48 volt battery = 35 %
48 volt motor, 52 volt battery = 30 %

 

[knutselmaaster]

I installed my shift sensor and wow does it shift great. The second I push my shift button the motor stops it shifts fast, smooth, and quiet. Now the problem is it powers off for about 2 seconds and about 2 revolutions at 75 RPM before the power comes back on, that's a long dead-spot. I am using an LCD3 with version 20 beta 1.
But very soon I'll be moving to the 860C and casainho's latest firmware.
Is there a way in the firmware that we can speed up this power back on, to only a half a second?

Will this setting help?

Motor acceleration adjustment 0 %
Default value = 0 %
36 volt motor, 36 volt battery = 35 %
36 volt motor, 48 volt battery = 5 %
36 volt motor, 52 volt battery = 0 %
48 volt motor, 36 volt battery = 45 %
48 volt motor, 48 volt battery = 35 %
48 volt motor, 52 volt battery = 30 %

My contact at gearsensor told me that there is a special firmware for the TSDZ2 motor for use with gearsensors, where the interruption is way shorter.
I'm unaware how this works, if it is able to detect a difference between a normal brake sensor signal and a gearsensor signal or if it has just a shortened interruption.

 

[jeff.page.rides]

I installed my shift sensor and wow does it shift great. The second I push my shift button the motor stops it shifts fast, smooth, and quiet. Now the problem is it powers off for about 2 seconds and about 2 revolutions at 75 RPM before the power comes back on, that's a long dead-spot. I am using an LCD3 with version 20 beta 1.
But very soon I'll be moving to the 860C and casainho's latest firmware.
Is there a way in the firmware that we can speed up this power back on, to only a half a second?

Will this setting help?

Motor acceleration adjustment 0 %
Default value = 0 %
36 volt motor, 36 volt battery = 35 %
36 volt motor, 48 volt battery = 5 %
36 volt motor, 52 volt battery = 0 %
48 volt motor, 36 volt battery = 45 %
48 volt motor, 48 volt battery = 35 %
48 volt motor, 52 volt battery = 30 %

My contact at gearsensor told me that there is a special firmware for the TSDZ2 motor for use with gearsensors, where the interruption is way shorter.
I'm unaware how this works, if it is able to detect a difference between a normal brake sensor signal and a gearsensor signal or if it has just a shortened interruption.

Do you know if this special firmware works with our current versions as an add on or is it something that works with the factory firmware?

 

[twiersum]

Just an FYI I have been running my motors at 16s 67.2V and it's been holding up well. Keep in mind this is MTB and I mostly ride at level 1 & 2 at 80 & 120 so I'm not pushing heavy amps.

I also added a zerc fitting and filled my cases with thermal di electric grease. It transfers heat very well imho.

 

[casainho]

Just an FYI I have been running my motors at 16s 67.2V and it's been holding up well. Keep in mind this is MTB and I mostly ride at level 1 & 2 at 80 & 120 so I'm not pushing heavy amps.

Good to know!!

What do you mean by 80 and 120?

 

[casainho]

Do you know if this special firmware works with our current versions as an add on or is it something that works with the factory firmware?

Maybe increasing the current ramp feature can help you: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Features-and-configurations-for-version-0.19.X#7_Motor_Controller_Setup

 

[knutselmaaster]

I installed my shift sensor and wow does it shift great. The second I push my shift button the motor stops it shifts fast, smooth, and quiet. Now the problem is it powers off for about 2 seconds and about 2 revolutions at 75 RPM before the power comes back on, that's a long dead-spot. I am using an LCD3 with version 20 beta 1.
But very soon I'll be moving to the 860C and casainho's latest firmware.
Is there a way in the firmware that we can speed up this power back on, to only a half a second?

Will this setting help?

Motor acceleration adjustment 0 %
Default value = 0 %
36 volt motor, 36 volt battery = 35 %
36 volt motor, 48 volt battery = 5 %
36 volt motor, 52 volt battery = 0 %
48 volt motor, 36 volt battery = 45 %
48 volt motor, 48 volt battery = 35 %
48 volt motor, 52 volt battery = 30 %

My contact at gearsensor told me that there is a special firmware for the TSDZ2 motor for use with gearsensors, where the interruption is way shorter.
I'm unaware how this works, if it is able to detect a difference between a normal brake sensor signal and a gearsensor signal or if it has just a shortened interruption.

Do you know if this special firmware works with our current versions as an add on or is it something that works with the factory firmware?

No, sorry.
The guy at gearsensor told me that I should order the motor with the specific firmware to be sure of optimal functionality of the gearsensor.
According to him, it really makes a big difference.
I have 20 of these sensors in stock now but haven't had time to play with them yet.

 

[casainho]

The guy at gearsensor told me that I should order the motor with the specific firmware to be sure of optimal functionality of the gearsensor.
According to him, it really makes a big difference.

Then tell that you want to use the sensor with the OpenSource firmware and ask the changes on the firmware or specifications or source code of the firmware.

 

[windburner]

I also added a zerc fitting and filled my cases with thermal di electric grease. It transfers heat very well imho.

How much time do you have with this approach? I'd be interested to see the details of exactly what you did, if you are willing to share.

 

[RicMcK]

I also added a zerc fitting and filled my cases with thermal di electric grease. It transfers heat very well imho.

How much time do you have with this approach? I'd be interested to see the details of exactly what you did, if you are willing to share.

I did this (attachment) and it seems to work great. I like the idea of a Zerc fitting to better fill the gaps. I will be doing the same modification to my second motor and I will make more detailed DIY instructions, however, I will not be able to do it until late next month.

 

[john61ct]

I also added a zerc fitting and filled my cases with thermal di electric grease. It transfers heat very well imho.

Link to the grease used?

 

[jeff.page.rides]

I installed my shift sensor and wow does it shift great. The second I push my shift button the motor stops it shifts fast, smooth, and quiet. Now the problem is it powers off for about 2 seconds and about 2 revolutions at 75 RPM before the power comes back on, that's a long dead-spot. I am using an LCD3 with version 20 beta 1.
But very soon I'll be moving to the 860C and casainho's latest firmware.
Is there a way in the firmware that we can speed up this power back on, to only a half a second?

Will this setting help?

Motor acceleration adjustment 0 %
Default value = 0 %
36 volt motor, 36 volt battery = 35 %
36 volt motor, 48 volt battery = 5 %
36 volt motor, 52 volt battery = 0 %
48 volt motor, 36 volt battery = 45 %
48 volt motor, 48 volt battery = 35 %
48 volt motor, 52 volt battery = 30 %

I just finished a ride on my handcycle with the power turned down on the TSDZ2 closer to what a normal person would use. When I'm providing one-third the power and the TSDZ2 puts out two-thirds power I have to slow my rotation at the same time I shift. That's better than it used to be I had to jerk it back quickly and then go forward again to get it to shift. When I have it turned up so it's providing the majority of the power just shifting is enough to shift and I don't have to alter my pedal pressure at all.

 

[fireflyer451]

jeff.page.rides

I found that I did not need the Gear Sensor on my trike. It reacted you described, a sort of on/off lurching. Not smooth. After disconnecting it, just lightly reducing pressure on the pedals allows pretty smooth shifting. I do not have to stop rotating pedals at all.

 

[sysrq]

After installing the second bearing in this way, have you tried to remove the bearing. If it is installed outside the snap ring I foresee a problem removing the bearing?

When you remove the snap rings and main gear from the drive side, you can push the axle out of the left side and removing the bearing should be no problem.

Lateral play can also be fixed by putting thin washers on the inner side of the snap ring, but I didn't find suitable washers locally so adding the second bearing was simpler option for me.

What about the right side? I think allowing play on the right side only might put more stress on the axle.

 

[Elinx]

......
What about the right side? I think allowing play on the right side only might put more stress on the axle.

Again on the Italian Jobike forum someone has put a thin sheet of metal inside there. For that purpose you can use the metal of a feeler gauge.

 

[jeff.page.rides]

jeff.page.rides

I found that I did not need the Gear Sensor on my trike. It reacted you described, a sort of on/off lurching. Not smooth. After disconnecting it, just lightly reducing pressure on the pedals allows pretty smooth shifting. I do not have to stop rotating pedals at all.

Using Nexus or Alfine hub with a TSDZ2 coaster brake motor that's turned up for my weak arms by holding reverse or negative tension to the pedals as the system boots up so that if I'm putting in 100-150 Watts I'm getting 600-650 Watts, is completely different than what most people are doing. At the same time, the things we're doing to the firmware to make this workout for me also helps the system work better for everyone.

 

[twiersum]

I also added a zerc fitting and filled my cases with thermal di electric grease. It transfers heat very well imho.

Link to the grease used?

Took 5 min. Keeps dust out.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-14-1-oz-400-g-Silicone-Tube-Dielectric-Grease-91015/304631855

 

[john61ct]

Took 5 min. Keeps dust out.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-14-1-oz-400-g-Silicone-Tube-Dielectric-Grease-91015/304631855

Thanks.

Hate silicone passionately though. Thinking maybe a self-curing potting compound, needs to stay flexible and with good thermal conductivity, but it seems most are pricey. . .

 

[Brlowe]

Does anyone have a link to the 860C display manual?
I have one and pulled the remote switch off it without looking at which connector it was one.
It will plug into both but the color only matches one of them but want to make sure that is the right one.
One connector is longer than the other also.

Thank you

 

[casainho]

Does anyone have a link to the 860C display manual?
I have one and pulled the remote switch off it without looking at which connector it was one.
It will plug into both but the color only matches one of them but want to make sure that is the right one.
One connector is longer than the other also.

The color for the motor controller is green and for the remote, I think is blue.

 

[Brlowe]

Does anyone have a link to the 860C display manual?
I have one and pulled the remote switch off it without looking at which connector it was one.
It will plug into both but the color only matches one of them but want to make sure that is the right one.
One connector is longer than the other also.

The color for the motor controller is green and for the remote, I think is blue.

They were both green but the remote is a darker green. The 850c I think had the blue remote connector.

 

[Cristian]

I searched around, but i can't find much about play in the axle. It started today, it's about 1-2mm of play. What is the cause? What do i have to replace?

Does anyone know what is causing play in the axle?

I opened the motor and it looks like the clutch bearing is causing the play. I have 2300km with the OSF firmware and KT-LCD3. I always ride hard in traffic, so it did take some abuse.

I will replace the bearing, do the motor temperature dissipation mods and switch to the 850C display. Too bad i already bought it a while ago, i would have bought the 860C now. Next time i guess.

Anyways, the OSF firmware is amazing. Thank you again to everybody who is involved in this project.

 

[casainho]

I will replace the bearing, do the motor temperature dissipation mods and switch to the 850C display. Too bad i already bought it a while ago, i would have bought the 860C now. Next time i guess.

860C display quality is really a good improvement, important for reading outside during the day.

 

[skestans]

My motor did really bite into the frame at the chain stays I’m worried this will cause a rust issue down the line since this frame is cromoly. What do you guys think?


https://imgur.com/a/Hqb3alq

 

[sysrq]

......
What about the right side? I think allowing play on the right side only might put more stress on the axle.

Again on the Italian Jobike forum someone has put a thin sheet of metal inside there. For that purpose you can use the metal of a feeler gauge.

Could try, but the whole construction kinda doesn't seem to be confidence inspiring enough. Using some sort of a compression ring would have been better if they know that they have a bad tolerance control.