New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

so PSWPower replied to my request with basically saying they don't know what's inside and that it depends on the manufacturing date (at least that's my interpretation)

we are not sure
its date of manufacture is up to date

mh not the response that I was hoping for:unsure:
 
Just installed a brand new TSDZ2B. The motor is really stiff (with and without power on). when peddling with no assistance the pedals stick momentarily at the 12 o'clock position. It's also really stiff to push backward. I don't remember my 2 TSDZ2 motors being like this, but it was 4 and 5 years ago I did the installs. I bought the new B model as it's meant to be easier to pedal with the new 2-way clutch. It's much worse. Is this normal and will it break in ?
 
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oatmuncher said:
so PSWPower replied to my request with basically saying they don't know what's inside and that it depends on the manufacturing date (at least that's my interpretation)

we are not sure
its date of manufacture is up to date

mh not the response that I was hoping for:unsure:
Click to expand...
My tsdz2b from pswpower in may is flashed with OSF, runs like a dream.

My guess is they can all be flashed, pswpower dont know what they are talking about, manufacture date probably doesnt matter and they are just confused
 
Bartman said:
Just installed a brand new TSDZ2B. The motor is really stiff (with and without power on). when peddling with no assistance the pedals stick momentarily at the 12 o'clock position. It's also really stiff to push backward. I don't remember my 2 TSDZ2 motors being like this, but it was 4 and 5 years ago I did the installs. I bought the new B model as it's meant to be easier to pedal with the new 2-way clutch. It's much worse. Is this normal and will it break in ?
Click to expand...
I have nothing like that on my tsdz2b at least. Sample size == 1
 
Joakim said:
I have nothing like that on my tsdz2b at least. Sample size == 1
Click to expand...
Thank you. The motor got worse tonight. Pedals slipping. I’m sure it’s part of the same thing. Only 20 km done since new.
 
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To Bartman:

I would guess your motor bottom bracket is out of aligment and rubbing each lap when rotating making it hard to pedal?

Also I will check our motors what we have in stock now and speak with my boss... any other changes than a double clutch or something. I need to read onto this some more. Is the blue nylon cog still a replacement part you can use or are many new parts needed for spare of the new tsdz2b motor other than those required by the change of and added new components?
 
I have a TSDZ2B engine and I tried the firmware 1-20.1C.2-update-2. I set everything possible but in the end I returned to the original. The speed did not exceed 25 km and the walking support for 6 km was turned on and off at 2 second intervals. The original firmware supports up to 29 km and the walk goes continuously. There is 25 km off on VLCD5. I wanted a speed of 40 km, but it is not possible. Am I setting something wrong?
 

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I have a TSDZ2 which I bought last year, after about 900km of riding a ratcheting noise start to develop during the power stroke of the left pedal, upon inspection the crank arm bolt was a bit loose, I tightened it, and after about 5-10km the noise came back and it had come loose again, a bit over half a turn to tighten it and make the noise go away. Now the right hand crank arm has started doing the same thing. Anyone else experienced this and have a fix for it?
 
Ernie said:
I have a TSDZ2 which I bought last year, after about 900km of riding a ratcheting noise start to develop during the power stroke of the left pedal, upon inspection the crank arm bolt was a bit loose, I tightened it, and after about 5-10km the noise came back and it had come loose again, a bit over half a turn to tighten it and make the noise go away. Now the right hand crank arm has started doing the same thing. Anyone else experienced this and have a fix for it?
Click to expand...
Square taper has to be tight . if you left it loose before it might have developed into something worse
 
pxl666 said:
Square taper has to be tight . if you left it loose before it might have developed into something worse
Click to expand...
I removed the bolt on the left crank and noticed there was no Loctite on it, so I cleaned it, applied blue Loctite, and did it up as hard as I could. Left it for a day to cure, then did a 10km test drive today and it hasn't loosened yet. If that was the problem I am releaved as I really didn't want to start replacing motor parts.
 
Ernie said:
I removed the bolt on the left crank and noticed there was no Loctite on it, so I cleaned it, applied blue Loctite, and did it up as hard as I could. Left it for a day to cure, then did a 10km test drive today and it hasn't loosened yet. If that was the problem I am releaved as I really didn't want to start replacing motor parts.
Click to expand...

I almost returned a perfectly fine motor just based on 'creaking noise' I couldn't figure out, and which went away after I took the thing apart as much as felt comfortable doing at the time. I've been used to splined cranksets for so long I just didn't realize how much of a difference there would be between 'feels almost tight but isn't' and 'just right'.

As with most people, I don't have a torque wrench so my application of 'enough force' is measured on how much of a turn I can get out of the thing by beating it with a rubber mallet. Turns out, tapered cranksets need more of a turn after I get them hand tight.

Haven't had an issue since, hope the same goes for you.
 
I have a TSDZ2 I bought used and I'm trying to make sure it works before I buy a battery. I've got it sitting on my desk hooked up to a 52V source capable of sourcing 6A and I'm reading its current. When I first plugged it in I read a current of about 30mA, but that dropped to <5mA (read 0A on the range I'm using) after a few seconds. I can turn the spindle but haven't seen any current >5mA in the unit; I don't know if that's because the motor doesn't know it should be turning, or if it's broken. I have a few questions which I hope will help clarify things.

Is there any way to get diagnostic info from the microcontroller? I've flashed OpenSourceEbike firmware on it so I'm able to connect to it, at the least.

Does OpenSourceEbike firmware support the DZ41 display? I'm thinking if I can't get info from the microcontroller I can hook up a display instead, and I'd like to go with a small, cheap one. I notice the OpenSourceEbike configurator only lists the VLCD5, VLCD6, XH18, and 850C, but I saw another thread saying that display is plug and play with the stock firmware (this one)

What's the difference between the OpenSourceEbike firmware and emmebrusa's? I assume the OSE one is better because it's updated more recently and has more stars, but I've seen emmebrusa's recommended as well and don't know exactly why.

Thanks. And if anyone has another idea to verify my motor's working, I'd love to hear it.
 
Mbrusas firmware is (beside mspider65 project) the most advanced firmware - it is based on OpenSourceEbike with many improvements (see version history)
Also, wrt your motor: You need a display to turn the motor on. You can test if it works by enabling walk mode. How and where to do that is mentioned in the manual, this thread and the documentation of mbrusa’s firmware. Good luck 👍
 
You have also possibility to run mspider65 firmware which supports ESP32 board for wireless BT operation with the app on your phone, firmware should be as good as emmebrusa's
 
I'm confused on the workflow of flashing custom firmware to the controller. Following this guide, I'm able to connect to the microcontroller and backed up the stock firmware.

The attached readme from emmebrusa's firmware tells me to use the configurator to flash the new firmware. I changed some settings to what I want in the configurator, but when I click Compile & Flash the only visible effect is that the Experimental Settings menu gets a new .ini file. It doesn't seem like it's actually compiled anything into microcode or flashed it to the microcontroller.

Looking at compile_and_flash.sh, it doesn't look like it actually pulls settings from the .ini file anywhere, so I don't think it's using the settings I set up in the configurator. Anyways, it fails at flashing the hex file it compiled with the following error:
Do you want to flash the motor ? [Y/n]
stm8flash -c stlinkv2 -p stm8s105?6 -w data_empty.ihx
Determine FLASH area
STLink: v2, JTAG: v29, SWIM: v7, VID: 8304, PID: 4837
Due to its file extension (or lack thereof), "data_empty.ihx" is considered as INTEL HEX format!
Address 4000 is out of range at line 1
make: *** [Makefile:112: clear_eeprom] Error 255
Click to expand...
clear_eeprom.bat doesn't exist, which presumably is the cause of that final error.

So, anyone running Linux, what's the typical workflow to get from the configurator .ini to a hex file I can flash using stm8flash?
 

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Wapous said:
Such a simple mechanism. That's nice to look at.
Click to expand...
Yet they screwed the pooch with an inadequate bottom bracket spindle diameter, when it was totally unnecessary. It makes me certain that there are lots of other boneheaded design choices hiding in there.
 
Chalo said:
Yet they screwed the pooch with an inadequate bottom bracket spindle diameter, when it was totally unnecessary. It makes me certain that there are lots of other boneheaded design choices hiding in there.
Click to expand...
Let it go Chalo. Your hate-relation with that motor has become almost a running gag. And all only about hearsay, or did you ever use one?
I am with wapous - it is a really clever design. Esp the torque sensor. And the std BB diameter and the sensor design rules the axle diameter, so it is not ‚totally unneccessary‘. And the problem is not the diameter, but the groves in the axlefor the circlips.
But yes - that is the one big weakness of this motor. (Although I had never abreakage on our motors since thousands of miles so far)
 
endlessolli said:
Let it go Chalo. Your hate-relation with that motor has become almost a running gag. And all only about hearsay, or did you ever use one?
I am with wapous - it is a really clever design. Esp the torque sensor. And the std BB diameter and the sensor design rules the axle diameter, so it is not ‚totally unneccessary‘. And the problem is not the diameter, but the groves in the axlefor the circlips.
But yes - that is the one big weakness of this motor. (Although I had never abreakage on our motors since thousands of miles so far)
Click to expand...
Literally thousands of different BB spindles exist out there, their sizes settled on by everything from trial and error to finite element stress analysis to rote imitation. But TSDZ2 has the smallest diameter I've ever seen-- even on a child's bike-- by a whole millimeter. And then they cut a groove right where the stress is highest. It's not a small mistake. It's a small component used where everybody else in the world, for generations, agrees you need a bigger one. And where for generations we've known it should not be grooved. That's textbook negligence. If the manufacturer were from a respectable country, they would already have been sued out of existence.

The snap ring grooved Viscount BB spindle of the 1970s was a chronic problem, and it was over 13% bigger in diameter than the one we're discussing.

 
Wapous said:
And finally, I find your “respectable country” comment inappropriate and unfounded.
Click to expand...
Then try to find an effective product liability legal action against a company that only has operations in PRC. That simply doesn't happen, because PRC doesn't care about minutiae like folks getting hurt by poor design and shoddy construction. They take it for granted.
 
Hello, I have been away for a while.. I am now facing a problem with my new
tsdz2 b which I replaced the older tsdz2 with.
I flashed the 1.0.0 firmware...
Everything is smooth until I need to climb up a hill...when I have to reduce cadence, e.g. when going around a corner, the support by the motor goes away and somehow I am not able get it going again...as much so, that eventually I have to get off a couple of hundred meters away from my home and need to walk up with the bike by my side....tiring .

I did not experience this with the tsdz2 , firmware and settings are the same (I am using the old display that was already flashed to 1.1.0

Does anyone here have an idea what I could look into in terms of settings?

I wrote a DM to Casainho, but he may be busy currently.
 
andyme said:
Hello, I have been away for a while.. I am now facing a problem with my new
tsdz2 b which I replaced the older tsdz2 with.
I flashed the 1.0.0 firmware...
Everything is smooth until I need to climb up a hill...when I have to reduce cadence, e.g. when going around a corner, the support by the motor goes away and somehow I am not able get it going again...as much so, that eventually I have to get off a couple of hundred meters away from my home and need to walk up with the bike by my side....tiring .

I did not experience this with the tsdz2 , firmware and settings are the same (I am using the old display that was already flashed to 1.1.0

Does anyone here have an idea what I could look into in terms of settings?

I wrote a DM to Casainho, but he may be busy currently.
Click to expand...
Perhaps it is overheating by this stage. Did you install the temperature sensor ?
 
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