stratohunter
10 mW
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2022
- Messages
- 34
If you're looking at the TSDZ2, the first question becomes how hard are you planning on riding your bike, is it barely commuting or off-roading? I don't know if the torque sensor and the spindle of the TSDZ2 will sustain serious off-roading, but for me weighing about 75kg with my backpack, it haven't gave me any issue when standing on the pedal. Not sure how long it'll last though.
Also, the so-called 750w version will behave nowhere like a generic 750w mid motor, with the awful heat shedding design. It will peak at about 900w but anything continuous over 400w will likely cook the inside motor. I put aluminum sheets and thermal putty between the motor stator and the cover, along with a temperature sensor, to bring it up to continuous 650w. I will post about this in the future if I have time. I personally advice against buying the 1.6mm thick aluminum heatsink plate which goes between the motor base and the housing, because this depth varies among different motors due to poor QC. Mine is 0.8mm to 1.0mm and if I force a 1.6mm heatsink plate in, it will tilt the inside motor and finally break the axle. If you want to fill this space, get some high quality thermal pads instead.
Finally, it's recommended to keep a brass gear prepared, and make sure your motor comes with the older programmable controller so that you can run the OSF. Get the 36V motor and run it on 48V/52V battery if you constantly pedal above 100rpm. The stock chainring is 42T and works just fine for my 10speed cassette.
I hope these helps.
Also, the so-called 750w version will behave nowhere like a generic 750w mid motor, with the awful heat shedding design. It will peak at about 900w but anything continuous over 400w will likely cook the inside motor. I put aluminum sheets and thermal putty between the motor stator and the cover, along with a temperature sensor, to bring it up to continuous 650w. I will post about this in the future if I have time. I personally advice against buying the 1.6mm thick aluminum heatsink plate which goes between the motor base and the housing, because this depth varies among different motors due to poor QC. Mine is 0.8mm to 1.0mm and if I force a 1.6mm heatsink plate in, it will tilt the inside motor and finally break the axle. If you want to fill this space, get some high quality thermal pads instead.
Finally, it's recommended to keep a brass gear prepared, and make sure your motor comes with the older programmable controller so that you can run the OSF. Get the 36V motor and run it on 48V/52V battery if you constantly pedal above 100rpm. The stock chainring is 42T and works just fine for my 10speed cassette.
I hope these helps.