Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

sn0wchyld said:
...stick my bike on the back of my truck...
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I feel sorry for your bike, embarrassing it like that. No bike of mine has ridden on or in a gasser since LFP came down for a visit 9 years ago, when none of mine had enough range to reach the beach. It's time to step up and build some electric transportation, not just toys. It sounds like you need a big batteried emoto capable of hauling a trailer carrying your offroad ebike. Then you can quick charge the offroader from the big battery bank of the 2 or 3 wheeler. I like the 3 wheeler for that use to go really big with the battery, and to be more stable in the wind with a large solar panel top with foldout extensions while parked for shade and useful amounts of power.

If I'm understanding the charge through the motor and controller thing of the Nucs, it gives me a way to charge for almost any DC source, even another battery of any voltage and the controller limits the current and max voltage.
 
j bjork said:
The dc source has to be lower voltage than the battery on the bike for it to work.
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I knew that, and I believe it's best to have it not too much below the packs I want to charge for best efficiency. The lowest voltage on my bikes is 60V nominal, so the most likely voltage for the home based pack would be 44-48V (12-13s). That is if I can find a reasonably priced inverter that will run off of that voltage.

Rainy season hasn't been very wet this year, so I anticipate that the national electric company will do alternating blackouts in the later part of dry season like they did back in 2005 when we had a dry rainy season and the lakes providing the hydroelectric that power most of the country started running low. I have plenty of batteries and plenty of time to set up, so I can avoid the noisy generator this time.
 
VasiliSk said:
Make precharge more quick and add some discharge resistor on controller +-
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Discharging the caps i have already tried (down to a few mV), but it did not help.
Precharge takes around 0,5sec from 0V to battery voltage (circuit is closed then), is this to slow?
Thanks
 
Could anyone upload their config file for me to base from? Want to compare and contrast.

Specifically field weakening and ebrake config I am interested in.

Thanks
 
Quick question for anyone with the 6f
Is it capable of any more that 4kw peaks.
Quik calc 70a @ say 85v is 6kw.
Deciding between 6 & 12f.
It’s for a qs1000 mid drive.
Currently running about 4kw and barely getting warm.
Thinking it might still be happy at short peaks around 6kw.
 
Which controller should I use with this e-scooter that I will buy soon?
The controller most probably will be placed inside the frame and I think I will mount a nominal 3kW QS hub motor.
I think I will need 12F
What's your thoughts?
IMG-20191029-WA0004[1].jpg
 
I was wandering if solar could be used to charge through controller and if so what would be the brackets for voltage so its at peak efficiency?
What extra circuitry would be needed?
 
VasiliSk said:
with 10kW peaks 12F good. If speed not too high it will run fine, for 80kmh+ choose 24F
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Thank you.
Do you know someone who has already mounted a Nucular Controller on one of these e-scooters?
 
Merlin said:
whats the weight of the scooter?
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The specs say around 60Kg but tomorrow I will go to the Italian retailer and have a look in person.
By the way ... did you saw this site? https://bleilebikes.com/
Sounds like the Italian retailer gets these e-scooters from there.
 
i think you will not be happy with 12f.
as long the 12f has only 250a phase, acceleration is not that satisfying :p

i dont know whats going on in russia but this controller stay "cool/cold" all time.
i didnt see any problem that the 12f cant do 300 phase.

you had also a midi or maxe right? the midi is only 12f (140a battery/325a phase)

at the end i would prefer that also...less battery, more phase.

i had alot talks with ppl and their 12f "problem" of slow starts from zero.
i tried also alot of settings and at the end i switched my gearing to get better startup torque.

until....the real beast jumped into my lmx....the 24f....... WORLDS between 12f <-> 24f.
 
I don´t have any nucular controller yet, but I have a qs 205 50h v3 4t. I have tried 250A phase, and I don´t think it i enough. I now have 360 (max with the controller I have now) It will be interesting to see what 400-500A can do :)

Maybe 250A is ok in a 5t or 6t motor, or maybe you think it is enogh. But if you have a lower turn motor and want max performance go 24fet.
 
Will there be a password protected ECO mode with forced PAS or equivalent like Adaptto had?
 
j bjork said:
I don´t have any nucular controller yet, but I have a qs 205 50h v3 4t. I have tried 250A phase, and I don´t think it i enough. I now have 360 (max with the controller I have now) It will be interesting to see what 400-500A can do :)

Maybe 250A is ok in a 5t or 6t motor, or maybe you think it is enogh. But if you have a lower turn motor and want max performance go 24fet.
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I'll most probably go with the 24F.
I've been using a QS 205 50H V3 30x4T from 2016 on my Bomber coupled with a Max-e 12kW peak power and I like that motor a lot because I never over heated it after inserting some ferrofluid, my bottle neck is the controller that over heat in deep sand or steep hill climbing.
Now I would love to buy a QS 205 50H V3 with a 7.5X12 rim. I guess this motor but with a 7.5X12 rim?
http://www.cnqsmotor.com/en/article_read/Top%20Selling%2048V%20Brushless%20DC%20In-Wheel%20Moped%20Hub%20Motor%2012inch%2050H%203000W%20V3%20Type%20for%20Scooter/195.html

Anybody knows if is possible to buy such a motor?
 
I couldn't find this issue and fix mentioned anywhere, but during my first setup controller setting changes would not stick even though during save it reported the save was successful. While going thru setup in the motor section (even without using auto setup), the motor started spinning, so be sure to have the wheel off the ground during first time setup. Keep the chain off too, since reverse could reek havoc with pedals and reverse spin.

The Fix to saved changes not taking hold:
Down near the bottom of Other Parameters is the option to Erase Data Storage, which cleared the issue right up.

As a Nucular noob, the sheer volume of settings can be daunting, and I've only scratched the surface of customization, but getting up and running is a snap, especially with the Auto Setup function. I'm still scratching my head about how it knew the pole pair count without me inputting it. I can't wait to try Auto Setup with the other pair of Nucs I bought on my 6 phase motors.

Vasily has been great, and his controllers are definitely the cat's meow, so all his hard work paid off.
 
VasiliSk said:
Pole pair default is 23, you should input it manually lol
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Ah, that makes sense now, since so many hubmotors have that pole count. This just happened to be a motor for my son's bike, not the 10 pole pair hubmotors I use mostly.
 
What are you guys using for on/off switching to get absolute reliability? At least with my setup, a switch on K1 to ground doesn't always turn the bike off, often requiring a 2nd cycle of the switch. I'm not going the contactor route...too expensive and bulky and introduces new failure points.

I use motorcycle key switches that have 4 wires...cheap and 100% reliable for me for last 12 years of ebiking at high voltages, and they can handle the current of for a DC/DC converter for full lighting. 2 wires have continuity with the key on and the key can't be pulled out while on, and the other pair have continuity when the key is off. I'm thinking that a good solution is raise the max brake voltage to 5V or whatever it needs to be and use the OFF pair to jumper the 5v+ supply to the brake sense wire, so if the controller stays on while switched off, the ebrake cutoff won't allow it to go. How much power would that use? If it's low enough then on bikes without a display, I'll forget about the K1-gnd jumper and leave it ON all the time, which will give me full regen wheel lock with the key off. Plus I can wire stuff like normal to the other 2 wires on the key switch to give Key ON power to run DC/DC converter, Cycle Analyst, etc. on my bikes that still have CA's.

Anyone see any holes in the above approach?
 
This bike is being set up to run without a display (at least for now, because I don't want my son changing settings until he gets plenty of miles under his belt), and on/off seemed a bit conflicted using a switch on K1 to gnd while using the display to change settings while disable was set up as "switch" in settings.

I will measure the at rest current draw tomorrow, along with the draw at 100% ebrake engaged while not moving and report here. Assuming power demands are minimal I will give this route a go, but with one addition to the mix, a hidden momentary switch for K1 to gnd. Then I can set the program to "button" for proper use while a display is connected, and we'll have a way to turn the bike all the way off in case the controller requires a reset or we need to disable the wheel lock for things like truing the wheel, moving the bike around the shop, or going pedal only for some exercise.
 
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