One connector solution to remove hub motor wheel from bike?

[RWP]

Looking for advice on a sturdy connector to make it easier to remove the rear wheel with hub motor.

Please point me in the right direction - this must be a common issue that has been covered many times here on ES.

This connector would be capable of handling the amps going to the motor and have 3 pins/connectors for the motor and 5 more for the sensor wires. Extra pins/connectors are OK. Maybe something that pins/connects together and has a ring with threads or? to make a positive solid connection.

THANKS!!!

 

[el_walto]

http://www.ebikes.ca/store/store_connectors.php
45A High Detent Anderson Powerpole w/pin (each) x Need 6 of these
Bag of Small Plastic Inline Connectors (12 pairs) used for throttles ebrakes Cycle Analyst etc. Need one of these.

 

[RWP]

http://www.ebikes.ca/store/store_connectors.php
45A High Detent Anderson Powerpole w/pin (each) x Need 6 of these
Bag of Small Plastic Inline Connectors (12 pairs) used for throttles ebrakes Cycle Analyst etc. Need one of these.

Thanks walto,
I have Andersons and other connectors...but I am looking for something in one piece that will make all the connections with one connector.

 

[mark5]

How about spinningmagnets' Weather Pack connectors:

spinningmagnets: More electrical connector options
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=23758#p345458

I see a $10 6-pin WeatherPack connector on eBay that says it'll accept up to 12-gauge. There's a 12-pin out there also but don't know pin size, amp capacity.

 

[RWP]

Thanks mark5!
That's a cool thread...but still looking for a one connector solution for the phase and sensor wires. All in one.

 

[amberwolf]

Those andersons can clip together to make a single connector, but they won't fit threu the typical 14 or 15mm axle nut. Neither will any other high-current solution I can imagine.

Does it have to fit thru the axle nut? If not, you can use many possible ocnnectors, including the Anderson Multipole series, whcih have many variations including some with a few large pins and several small. See their product pages for details. Canon/ITT connectors (the round multipin military/aircraft type) will work, too--there are a number of versions like the Multipoles with small and large pins. These are even waterproof if your cable coming out of the back is.


If you're not running much power thru them, you can get connectors like the one on fhte Fusin kit here: thjat will fit thru the axle nut, too:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=39877
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=83414
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=83420

 

[RWP]

Thanks Amber and All - really appreciate your responses.

I do not have to go through the axle. I am looking for something that would allow me to remove a hub motor wheel easily without having to remove wires going all the way back to the controller.

I was trying to find something that was one unit but after looking at cannon/itt units I realized that I needed higher amp connectors for the phase wires and much smaller amp connectors for the sensor wires.

I think I am going with either 3 Andersons ganged together or the Weatherpack auto electric units. Maybe Andersons for the phase wires and a 5 connector Weatherpack unit for the hall wires. I'll hit the auto parts stores tomorrow and if I don't find what I want will order on line.

 

[Dingo2024]

Hi,

maybe there is something on this page from Torberry;

http://www.torberry.co.uk/product-information.php

I appreciate that they are based in the UK but should be similar stuff available in the US?

Ian

 

[motomech]

At the motor end, I use these'.

On the controller end, I sometimes use these;

This one would meet the PO's requirements well, 3) 12 ga. wire and 5) 16 Ga. wires.
Price is right.
http://www.delcity.net/store/Molded-Connectors-with-a-Loop/p_8592

 

[dogman dan]

I have found the connector themselves to be a lot less trouble than the nuts, and perhaps two torque arms with multiple bolts or clamps. It's nice though, to have a plug down near the motor so you at least don't have to cut 5-6 zip ties to free the motor from the frame.

Andersons or 4 mm bullets seem to be good choices for the phase wires. Tons and tons of good choices for the halls. But since many of my motors do have to thread the wire through the nut, I have come to like the cheapie blade connectors common on scooters and many motor kits for the halls. Though far from ideal plugs , the contacts pop out of the housings pretty easy for threading on torque plates and washers as needed. Some shrink tube and tape should waterproof it enough, if that is needed.

 

[miro13car]

You need connector for vehicle not stationary use, it means chances of getting loose are high.
Also chances of riding in rain is always there.
Good connector is automotive grade connector or any connector which has
- seal
- lock
like Delphi series of connectors
such connector never gets loose and never allow water to penetrate.
I have them on my ebikes
Just Google Delphi

 

[RWP]

]This one would meet the PO's requirements well, 3) 12 ga. wire and 5) 16 Ga. wires.

I think this one is perfect for my needs!!!
Really appreciate all your comments and suggestions - thanks!

 

[el_walto]

You can build a large square block out of 8 anderson connectors. It will cost you a bit, but will look really cool.

 

[motomech]

One nice thing about genaric trailer connectors is that they are nondescript looking. Nondescript = stealth.

I hadn't plugged it all the way together yet.

 

[d8veh]

These ones are OK for up to about 20amps. They're now fairly standard on Bafang and Ananada (Cute) motors.
http://www.bmsbattery.com/accessory/439-9pin-waterproof-cable-female-connector-for-motor.html

 

[amberwolf]

These ones are OK for up to about 20amps. They're now fairly standard on Bafang and Ananada (Cute) motors.
http://www.bmsbattery.com/accessory/439-9pin-waterproof-cable-female-connector-for-motor.html

and fusin
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=650089#p650089

 

[miuan]

I've found multiple removals of my hub motor wheels made them harder to tighten properly since the locking fins on nut faces had worn out and the alloy structure on dropouts lost the plasticity required for the axle hardware to provide the necessary 'bite'. Thus the wheels have become more susceptible to loosen upon repeated torque peaks, let alone regen back-forth rocking motion.

 

[Kingfish]

I can’t begin to tell you how many times I’ve had my hubs removed and remounted. The hub covers have been removed at least thrice for rework or inspection - that’s both wheels. Experience has taught me to go with the most reliable and purpose built design.

Q: How much power do you require? That should determine the wire gauge, and then the connector.

I run about 50-60A on the Phase which is right past the limit of APPs (& recently opted for HXT 4mm Barrel connectors which eliminates the faulty spring contacts). I do like that APPs can be disassembled (housings removed) which allows for hub covers and mounting hardware to be easily removed. However the connectors and contacts have issues if the wires are moving dynamically – such as with a full-suspension frame. The HE sensor wires are altogether another problem which was resolved that by going with a USB Mini-B Male connector on the motor side; it’s smaller that the M14 hole for the nut & washer.

To prevent loosening, use two torque arms – one on each side, plus Blue Loctite on the threads. Really the only way for sure to stop loosening is to use a Castellated nut and pin, but that option is not entirely practical on the cable-side.

Just found this site; might be useful to some. Be sure to match the thread pitch correctly - for 9C motors it's M14-1.5

Good hunting, KF

 

[Jeremy Harris]

If you want a bit of a lateral thinking approach to this problem, then you could look at using a sub D 25 way connector pair. I know it sounds a bit off, but each pin in a sub D is good for 5A continuous (if you use a decent one). This means you can use five pins for the Halls and then use 18 pins for the phase wires (6 pins per phase). This gives a 30A continuous rated three way connector that is probably OK for double that peak, plus a 5A rated 7 way connector, leaving you two spare pins for something like a temperature sensor. Sub D connectors can be fitted with jack screws so that they positively lock together and I believe there are even waterproof boots for them. Probably not a good solution for the high power brigade, but they do have the virtues of being cheap, reliable, easy to plug and separate, relatively compact and readily available.

 

[miuan]

Even with a castellated nut the axle will get loose once the axle shoulder eats into the dropout or steel washer.

 

[Kingfish]

Even with a castellated nut the axle will get loose once the axle shoulder eats into the dropout or steel washer.

I think I understand what you mean; it took a while but I found some very thin steel washers that go between the axle shoulder and the bike framework - both in front and rear because the frame & fork are both Aluminum. So the shoulder & washer take the brunt of the compression and there is some slight deflection of material there.

That said, I don't have castellated nuts mounted on mine. When the trailer was hooked up (joined via the rear axle) the rear nuts would loosen after a day and a half, so every day they were synched up again. Front hub never had a problem and were tight the whole trip. As long as the torque arms are tight and prevent any axle movement then the nuts shouldn't loosen up.

If I get around to building a bigger bike (around 250-650 cc sized - except electric) and I get to design my own motors, then it's castellated nuts for me.

~KF