Post Your Electric Longboard or Electric Mountainboard Build

killisch said:
Nice. I've been waiting for someone to do one of the hi5ber boards.
Looks mint.

The Hi5ber boards are sick.. The clear coat is awesome since you can easily wipe it down and it's waterproof compared to wooden decks.

I also got a Hydroflex Angler deck and an Overlands BoFax. I figure these boards are much better than a loaded deck.

Got tired of regular wooden boards too.

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http://hydroflexskateboards.com/angler-freeride-longboard/

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http://overlandboards.com/collections/skateboards/products/bo-fax-longboard-millvalley-skateboard-aluminum

CSN said:
Awesome!!
How about a ride report on the TB's sensored setup?
How is the braking?
and differences from the non sensored setups?
Thanks

I haven't fully tested the dual motor yet. I'm waiting on extension wires for the sensored units. Unfortunately, the motors I got are 5065 so they don't fit well on a dual rear caliber trucks. You can get by dual rear on 195mm Paris Trucks which these are actually in the photo. I'll try and fit both motors on the rear and the wires should reach with no issues.

Sensored motors on single worked really well though. I'll have to test it more though.

I'll upload more videos eventually.
 
I built my first e-board as a learning experience for future builds. My original set-up I used the DIYElectricskateboard welded single motor kit on a cheap 36" AirWalk board I had bought at Big5. The rest of the parts I used was a 150A HK esc, two 3s 20c 5000mah lipos and a 1/4" drive socket set as my enclosure. Everything worked great, but things could use some improvements.
Decided to strip the entire board and stain the board to give it that natural look. Second I wanted an enclosure to match. Built an enclosure using a piece of 2x8. For the lid I used poplar. Stained both to match. The enclosure is glued and screwed to the board. Board is sprayed with a clear satin polyurethane.
For the other improvements, Abec 11 flywheels 90mm 75a, ceramic bearings, torqueboard 12s esc, HV switch , course MOB grip tape, and added a battery making it 9s.
Love the improvements, especially the ride quality.
 

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Hi there, my first build he he.

Specs :

ESC :Turnigy TrackStar 150A GenII 1/8th Scale Sensored Brushless Car ESC
Motor : Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5055-430kv Brushless Outrunner
Battery : Alien 6s lipo 8000mah ( that Bruno guy is great btw)
Motor mount and wheel pulley(36t) from aliendrivesystems (personally i think that a mount is overpriced, if only i would be back home in my garage...)
Motor pulley (15t) from beltingonline
Magic stick :) : Quanum 2.4Ghz 3ch Pistol Grip Tx & Rx System (works great, only thing annoying me is that i need to speak with security in shops about what i have in my pocket, and evade crazy drivers on the road who things that im carrying a gun)

Wheels : 80mm kegels orangatang
12v CAR CIGARETTE SOCKET (wow) for those dead phone battery days you all know xe xe
Cheap leds, leds, and some glowing phosphoric stuff.

Range: dont want to lie to you guys, but here im not sure, i still need to keep eye on that, but i would say, looking at google maps and counting miles i get something like ~9-10miles ( im accelerating and braking like a sick bastard)
Speed : I looked at my phone it was showing 42kmh (~26mph) and then i fall off and started making that noise of pain (way too much, in future will go for something with less kv)
Enclosure : had to rip off one side of my pc case and use metal scissors for that, some bending and screwing and bingo, battery hopefully is safe now.

Weight : 5.9kg

Now, i want to do more like an offroader board (mountainboard) but will wait, short on money... ;(

Thanks for everyone, i learned a lot from endless-sphere!

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adding my landyachtz topspeed to that list! :)

--> Build Thread
--> Building of the 10S4P battery pack

* Landyachtz TopSpeed 36,5" with new mounting position (increased wheelbase by 6.8cm)
* Black Caliber II 44° (to match motor mount color) with Bolzen 6° angled rubber risers (calibers 44 + 6 = back to 50° & good shock dampening)
* Abec11 Flywheels 90mm 75A (softest compound)
* Abec Biltin Bearings (its just so convenient to have spacers and speed rings built into your bearing)
* Riptide WFB Pivots for the Calibers (love them)
* Riptide Krank 87A Barrels

* Dual black Torqueboard v1 Motor Mount w 15/36 gearing and 5MGT 275mm belt (9mm width)
* Enertion RSpecc KV190 dual engine with enertion 15T pulley
* Torque Dual 120A 12S ESCs
* 12S Ubec to fuel the dual ESCs
* Wiireceiver
* Nyko Kama Nunchuck (ordered in the US since it doesnt seem to be available in the EU)
* Battery: 10S4P for 12Ah x 36V = 432Wh (can use evolve charger), made of LG 18650 HG2 cells (up to 20A & 3000mAh per cell).



original topspeed with increased wheelbase by 6.8cm:
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the spot welded battery before heat shrink tube:
Battery_Folded.jpg


torqueboards v1 motormount and enertion dual outrunners:
motor_motormount.jpg


the GFK-plate-enclosure, held by inserted M4 threads, rubber cylinders and loctite. all components are completely sealed with heat shrink tube. on that picture the ESC & motor cables werent shortened yet, so excuse the mess - it was a quick preparation to a maidens ride!
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and thats it - motor cables are still not shortened on that picture yet - they are now, promise! :p
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the board has a theoretical max speed (KV, gearing, wheelsize, battery voltage) of 48.35km/h and on my first GPS track, I found the top speed to be 48.4km/h (no wind, flat terrain):
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The board is extremely stable at high speeds when the bushings are correctly tuned - at the same time it carves really well. the locked in concave really gives it a raceboard feeling - you can lean deeper and deeper and it will just grip you right there. the strong concave at the flares can get uncomfortable though after 15-20km tour lengths! if i put my feet closer together, most of the concave is lost quickly, so it gets a lot more cruise-friendly then.

the abec 11 75A 90mm with the thick rubber pads makes it a very smooth riding experience. the heat shrinked and rubber-shockproofed enclosure makes no rattling sounds at all (all components were additionally installed on top of a 1mm felt sheet), even when driving over tiles. makes a very well built impression overall ... I really hate rattling, feels cheap and flimsy.

the dual motors are complete overkill and generate torque that is beyond what I can handle right now. I set the ESC braking to 80% and if I pull back the nunchuck controller fully, the wheels will actually lock on the last 3-4 meters (if you know boosted dual+ brakes: this is even stronger braking). a nice gimmick of the wiiceiver/nunchuck combo is the cruise control button - you set a speed, press C and the board will keep that speed. its REALLY a great feature for cruising and carving and so far the nunchuck has never dropped its signal yet (got my first 100km clocked by now)!
 
Earthwing Hoopty 36
Caliber Trucks
Albec 11 Flywheels 83mm
DIY motor mount with 36/16 gearing
Tourqueboard 12s ESC with ubec and anti spark switch
2x3s Zippy 5000 for 6s power
SK3 6364 245 kv motor
Tourqueboard mini TX and RX
Home made two bay enclosure using EPP foam and thin plywood covered in model airplane ultracoat heat shrink covering
 

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Posting my current build:
  • Deck: Trampa holy pro 35
    trucks: MBS matrix
    ESC: Chakas VESC
    batteries: 2 4s 5000mah lipos
    motor: single drive sk3 6364 213kv
    motor mount: DIY from 2( 1/2"by 6" by 3") aluminum slabs
    chain drive(using bicycle chain and sprockets
    GT2B remote in DIY enclosure
    XT90 anti-spark loop key
    G.T.Power High Precision Watt Meter (not very accurate; off by ~0.5v)
 

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Just wanted to share my electric longboard build, in effort to help others out and ease the frustration of finding all the components and simplifying the build. This build gets me up to 16 miles on a charge and a top speed of 28 mph. I’m an average sized dude and found the power and acceleration more than sufficient.

I hand-made all my mounts, however I would not recommend it. It’s not worth your time, and much easier to simply buy them from Enertion or Alien drives. All was made with aluminum plate in my garage. No lathes, mills, or CNC’s, just simply made with hand tools, drills, and taps. The drive hub was made with thick Home Depot washers that I drilled out, and the gear hub drilled too. I simply used the Orangatang wheel holes as a drill guide. I used long 6mm bolts & nuts through the hub. I also had to drill a large hole in the gear hub to allow clearance around the truck. Also grinded off some of the truck for more clearance. FYI, do not get 50° trucks because they are way too unstable after about 15 mph. Definitely get 44° trucks, and some and some angled risers to play around with. Also, a long rider can really beat up your feet and legs. Get some rubber shock pads or rubber risers to smooth out the ride. I used Khiro 1/8 rubber risers and Khiro 60a rubber angled risers. PS, All other vibration pads are junk and wont work. Khiro’s are real rubber. For the electronics enclosure, I mounted it with mounting tape and screws to the bottom. The components are mounted with double sided foam mounting tape. I cut a hole in the aluminum enclosure, then placed single side adhesive foam tape around the inside edge. This sealed perfectly on top of the speed control fan. I also drilled some small holes on both ends of the enclosure for air to enter. The battery enclosure was fastened to the deck in the same manner.

As for the radio, I used a HobbyKing GT2B, which worked great, but found it to be a little klunky and it can’t fit in your pocket. So I tore it open and slimmed it down to just the electronics (see the pictures). Basically I just had to solder a wire to the battery, then mount everything together with mounting tape, then wrap it all in duct tape. Much smaller and pocket sized. FYI, originally I excluded the antenna, but after a few rides I realized it is necessary because the radio will occasionally pick up WiFi interference and drop out. Beware, it’s a small fragile solder connection, so covering the solder joint in epoxy or hot glue is a good idea.

A cool addition I added was the voltage gauge which I mounted within the front nose of the board. It’s nice to know how much charge you have left so you can make it back home.

Below is a list of the components I used:
HobbyKing GT2B radio $25
HobbyWing EZRUN-Max8 speed control – From Hobbywingdirect.com - $130
Tacon Bigfoot 160 (245 KV) – From Hobbyparts.com $65
36 tooth wheel hub – ShopPolyBelt.com - Item #: P36-5M-09-6FA - $20
16 tooth motor Pulley – ShopPolyBelt.com - Item #: P16-5M-09-6FS - $10
Belt – 52 tooth - SDP-SI part # A 6R25M052090 - $16. However I’d recommend a longer belt. 52 teeth made it difficult to fabricate my mounts.
Ehlers – Mad Deer longboard Deck – (39.75” X 9.75) $70
Caliber II Trucks – 50° (should have got 44°) $60 (I had to use angle risers to get back to 44°)
Khiro 60a rubber angled riser pads (daddiesboardshop.com)
Khiro 1/8” shock pads (daddiesboardshop.com)
Orangatang Kegel wheels – 80mm – 80a - $60
Bones Reds bearings $15
LED 0.28" DC Voltmeter 3.0-30V ($6 off Ebay)
Aluminum Project Box Enclosure 163x106x56mm (Nicely fits my my 2 Turnigy packs) ($18 off Ebay)
Aluminum Enclosure 100*100*50mm (Nicely fits the speed control and radio) ($13 from banggood.com)
Batterys – 2 pcs – Turnigy Nanotech 6S-4000Ah – $50 From HobbyKing.com
Misc. wires and connectors from HobbyKing.com
HXT 4mm connectors
10 awg silicone wire
JST parallel connector
HXT 4mm parallel connector
iMax B6 charger and 5A power supply ($30 off Ebay)


Here’s a link to a video of it in action:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73pzOT5QgLk

Hope this helps people out. Good luck on your builds.

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Heres my board.

MBS Core 90
MBS Vector trucks
Kenda K909 8" tires
MBS Rockstar Pro Hubs
Used snowboard bindings 2 sizes smaller than on my snowboard.pulled the back plate off.
Custom motor mount and hub/sprocket mounts my buddy welded for me out of 1/4" 6061 Aluminum
2x Torqueboards 6374 230kv motors
2x Torqueboards 12S ESCs
torqueboards mini 2.4Ghz remote controller
Torqueboards antispark power switch(and soldered in maxi fuseholder in place of mini)
cheap ebay digital voltmeter
4x ZIPPY 5A 20C batteries (2x 6S5A packs)
waterproof case off ebay
#25 chain drive
5:1 gearing
1 motor on 6S 14mph
1 motor on 9S 21mph
2 motors on 6S 17mph
2 motors on 9S 22mph
I havent maxed it out on 12S yet but my max speed was 25mph and i started getting the speed wobbles. Ill try again with the trucks tighter.
Its pretty torquey on 6S. 9S is faster/more fun and 12S is trying to tame the beast. It climbs descent size hills and runs through grass. Usually traction is a bigger issue than power on the hills. Probably cuz of the tires but they should last longer than stock on all the pavement. The battery box came with the foam so i spent alot of time carving room for everything in that. I changed all the connections to 5.5mm bullet connectors that werent already. If I want to bump voltage up I can connect batterys together. The hardest part was drilling the sprockets right with hand tools.
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@Jynxbone6986

Do you have spring trucks or skate trucks? How is the turning radius of your board? Can you turn sharply
 
They are mbs matrix trucks. No springs. I can barely turn 180 degrees on a 2 lane road but its not hard to pop the front up to turn sharper like a skateboard
 
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