Post Your Electric Longboard or Electric Mountainboard Build

okp said:
looks awesome ! The JET Machine really stand out. The beauty of DIY is that you can choose your board. Definitely a WIN!

Thanks okp. Jet Machine is like poor-man's Wefunk Mach 1 :)
 
Mine's not so much a build as an improvement:

Description - Modified Skatemaster UK SF-X
Motors - Skatemaster SFX-53M 350W 24V
ESC - Skatemaster SFX-PU stock controller with wireless remote
Batteries - (2) Zippy Flightmax 3S 4,000mAh 40C + (2) Flightmax 3S 5,000mAh 20C (parallel)
Board - whatever it came with!
Wheels - whatever it came with!
Weight - considerably lighter since I ditched the lead-acid batteries!
Build Thread - http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=70474
 
Dialed! Finally, I'm done making changes to this build.
6" custom aluminum pneumatic wheels with 6x2 tires.
Custom fully adjustable motor mount.
63mm 290KV Turnigy G160 motor .
Geared @ 14/40.
Castle XL2 ESC.
2 x Turnigy 4s 8000 mah batteries in series for 8s 268wh!!!
New enclosure for batteries and ESC/New enclosure for charge lead, balance leads, Wiimote and loop switch.
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Finally knocked up a prototype without the duct tape.
Its for the housemate to destroy while I make something better.
213kv motor.
2x 3s 5000mah lipos in series.
Using the favorite 12s ESC and a 2.4ghz nunchuck.
Goes alright but it's a little twitchy being such a short deck. Really agile though.
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So in my typical style, I've been quietly tinkering away designing/building better boards... so in my downtime waiting for some modified parts and new machining, figured I'll show a little of what I've been working on.

Aiming to have the hub motors removable, serviceable and replaceable. This I have achieved, but also wanting to get some of a more useful wind speed, and have them mount a wheel with no modification to the wheel if possible. I'm still working on this aspect. I can mount slightly modified wheels, I may end up shrinking to a smaller motor as these will allow for more options, assuming they offer the power required.

Currently it is stupid fast with twin motors on 90mm wheels at 6s. It pulls much harder than my previous 1800w setup, slow speeds/hill starts are not an issue. It will cruise at 50km/h.

Anyway, the Toasted DRIVE as it stands this week. Hopefully get the proofs for the next iteration early next week, and ready for machining by weeks end.

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Need to clean up the wiring a bit, but not keen to modify it too much before I have a permanent setup in my new Baseboard deck. I'm working on getting the Knifestorm deck (mix of W and cereal bowl concave) as a drop through with batteries, specifically for techy electric riding.
 
Nice bandaro! You know what they say....once you go hubz, you never go back. :mrgreen:

mccloed said:
...

Ditto! I had never ridden pneumatic tires on one of my boards. Very tame from what I was expecting. Now I want some! Dammit!

I'd like to make that 2WD and go off-roadin!
 
hello everyone, first post here. I'am really impressed by all the builds you got here, kinda makes me not want to post mine.. but hey, here's what I got:

Board: MBS ATOM 90X
Motor: 2 Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5055-430kv Brushless Outrunners
Battery: 2 Turnigy 5.0 5000mAh 6S 40-50C LiPO Packs
ESC: 2 Turnigy 85A SBEC 2-6S LiPO ESC
Radio: Hobby King GT2B 2.4Ghz 2Ch Tx & Rx
Ratio: 55/9T = 6.1 reduction

Stats: Unfortunately, current Max Speed is zero kph, running time is null too so.. I'm in serious need for advice. please help, I'd certainly appreciate it.

Symptoms:

COGGING.. when I finished assembling it I did some bench testing on it.. seemed like everything was working. Stepped on it, WOT, nothing but cogging.. motors seemed to be trying but barely moved.

Root cause: either the motors don't have enough power, the batteries don't have enough juice or the motors are losing sync with transmitter.

Notes:

Motors are spec'd to deliver up to 1750W each.
Max current draw with load (my weight) was 8Amps.
Voltage measured on the batteries was a little over 23V, batteries are brand new, never drained nor charged after received.
Calibrated throttle but didn't make much difference.

I am considering upgrading to SK3 6374s, 150A ESCs and a couple more batt packs to go 12S, but I don't know if just throwing money at it will fix it.. somehow it looks like some of you out there have been able to ride with similar set ups.

Any thoughts?
 

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430kv is too high. Bring it down to 250kv or less.

Use car ESCs. Startup and braking is better on them.

If you can, use higher voltage. But the car ESCs over 6s gets pretty expensive.

Welcome to ES.
 
Try changing some throttle inputs with the programming card, like "soft start". You also might need to adjust the throttle trim on the GT2B controller. You could also try running the batteries down some more and I wouldn't hit WOT till you know whats going to happen
 
after long and hard work , my mini board is almost done .
I use it almost every day and work on the weekend , just need to finish the cover and put griptape.
soon I will replace the wheels to orangotang but this setup work great for now ..

4.7 kg with controller , motor and 6S 8A lipo .. ready to ride :D
 

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Vulthor said:
Very nice, the lighweight is impressive.

okp said:
looks great ! how do you manage to get the grip on the top deck ? you should sand it to make the carbon look like a mirror !

Thank you

the griptape should be here every day .. i use it for long time without a problem .
you can't sand carbon, it damage the strength of the fibers. when the work on the board finished I will spray varnish and then get the shine you're talking about.
 
thanks for the feedback. It's a bit off topic; but your mountain board and your carbon enclosure are just awesome. I am going to built a new setup.. on a vanguard loaded and will make the enclosure probably in carbon fiber. It's really beautiful. No stress for the flex as the enclosures will be like the boosted one, at each side of the deck
 
Pediglide said:
430kv is too high. Bring it down to 250kv or less.

Use car ESCs. Startup and braking is better on them.

If you can, use higher voltage. But the car ESCs over 6s gets pretty expensive.

Welcome to ES.

hey Pediglide, thanks for the advice.. I've seen your work and you know what you're talking about, that's for sure. It troubles me though that I never got the max current drawn from these motors, nor did I get the power they were spec'd to, I wonder if there's anything that can be done to get more out of them.. in the meantime, I'll look into getting the lower kv motors first. I may have to wait a little to upgrade de ESCs though, no kidding they get expensive over 6S.
 
highfiving said:
Try changing some throttle inputs with the programming card, like "soft start". You also might need to adjust the throttle trim on the GT2B controller. You could also try running the batteries down some more and I wouldn't hit WOT till you know whats going to happen

yeah, running the batteries down a bit more, adjusting the throttle trim and programming for a softer start, sounds like a plan, I will have to try it!.. hope it helps, thanks again!
 
Here's my newest board. Dual 5065 170KV Sensored Motors on a Hi5ber Incisor deck which is 34.5" long.

Deck - Hi5ber Incisor Deck - http://www.hi5ber.com/#!incisor/c21b0 - $180 + $30 Heavy Duty + $10 Vicious Grip Tape
Motor Mount - (2) Bolt On Paris Motor Mounts v1 - Black w/ Bash Plate
Drive Wheel Kit - (2) 12T/36T ABEC 11 Drive Wheel Kits
ESCs - (2) TorqueBoards 12S 120A Sensored ESC
Enclosure - Custom (2) 6S Plastic Enclosure w/ Bottom/Top Enclosures for ease of use.
Controller - Quantum Pistol Grip
Batteries - Alternate between (2) series packs in 4S, 5S, 6S depending on which pack I end up using. Of course, the (2) 6S packs are the most fun.

Used 3M 4x8 tape to secure the enclosure to the Carbon Fiber Deck. Works wonders and should hold 20-30 lbs although my components will be much less then that.
I then used Velcro Adhesive to secure components to the bottom enclosure.

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Awesome!!

How about a ride report on the TB's sensored setup?

How is the braking?

and differences from the non sensored setups?

Thanks
 
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