Punctures 2 in 2 weeks

[alsmith]

I've had 2 rear wheel punctures in 2 weeks (motor is on the front) which is unusual but on removing the tyre each time the tube has been dragged round so it's doubled past the valve so the tyre must be slipping on the rim. I find it strange because it's on the unpowered wheel, but I guess it means the tyre has had its life and it's time to chuck it- even though there's plenty of tread left. It's rim brakes but are there any tricks to stop the tyre slipping on the rim?

 

[Wheazel]

Ive never experienced tyres slipping if pumped enough.
I did however experience punctures due to mounting the tube badly. Especially in the valve area.
Also had problems with a dirtcheap tubebrand that punctured nomatterwhat after a few days.
Broke in the valvearea aswell. Its possible to use som "skiing glue" at the rim to avoid slipping. (the stuff skiers put under the skis during wet conditions)

What type of tyre is it? Im guessing racer or hybrid.

 

[alsmith]

It's a Michelin City Hybrid / Road Bike tyre that has a puncture resist strip so not cheap stuff.

 

[friendly1uk]

Mark the tyre and rim to see if it is moving. I can't imagine that it is unless it's terribly greasy. Are you using the right size tube? If it has some spare material then that might explain some movement.

 

[The fingers]

My MTB did that, because I kept putting 1.75 inch tubes in 1.95 inch tires.

 

[amberwolf]

Unless its underinflated, I havne't seen tires spin relative to the rim. When severely undreinflated, without much of a load on them (like fornt wheels on regular bikes) I have seen it happen a couple times when braking really hard. One of those times it also spun the tube and sheared off the valve stem. That was a really really long time ago, so the scars have healed up.

 

[alsmith]

Definitely not underflated. I wonder if the maybe bead is breaking up or broken- thinking about it I didn't need to use tyre levers to fit the tyre, normally I do.

 

[dogman dan]

Bingo. I have had similar problems with tires that have a loose enough fit on the rim to mount them without tools. They will creep till the stem rips off. It gets worse if the tires are old and somewhat more slick where the bead hits the rim.

Even properly inflated, you can get a lot of creep.

I have gone to the point of using rubber cement on the bead of the tire. But best for me was replacing the tires with stickier new ones, hopefully with a tighter fit too. You might not get that tight a fit though, if the rim is a bit on the small size.

A clean dry rim with no excess slime is needed. I haven't tried it, but perhaps some scuffing with coarse sandpaper could make the inside of the rim less slick.

 

[alsmith]

Thanks. I just had to take it off again- still a slow leak. Turns out it was from the edge of one of the patches exactly in line with one of those mold lines- the small nip was almost on that line. The line didn't flatten out very much at all with sandpaper. Last attempt at a repair, it's a new tube if it leaks again.
I've tried putting some of the ideas you've given into place, hopefully it will help keep the tyre in place. I'll try the rubber cement if I have to go in there again.
The tyre is normally inflated to 5 bar (72psi), and I've got those (4bar/58psi) valve caps that show red when the pressure goes below about 45-50psi so I know they are always at a reasonable pressure- fitted because the early punctures generally happened when the tyre pressure was low.

 

[dogman dan]

I didn't get it that you have been having a leak. Makes a slippery tire slip more for sure. But I have also seen a loose one slip with full pressure.

 

[alsmith]

I didn't get it that you have been having a leak. Makes a slippery tire slip more for sure. But I have also seen a loose one slip with full pressure.

There wasn't a slow leak at first, just after the repair. It initially tested ok, the leak only appeared after I started the ride.

 

[biohazardman]

I have the same problems with the tires slipping on my rims both front and back. It's been going on for over 10K now. I keep telling myself I am going to put some rubber cement in a few places but never get a roundtoit. I usually just let the air out of my tires on a 2-3 month schedule when they get overly crooked, break the bead and slip the tire and tube back until the stem is straight again. I figured this happened cuz of the over-sized brake rotors on the bike but the tire is a bit loose of a fit on the rim as well. Tires are 65LB units that I run around 55lbs in. Lost 4 tubes to this phenomenon thus far in my 10K miles of riding. Latest was yesterday. Someday I will actually glue the tire to the rim?

 

[drsolly]

Thanks for mentioning the tire pressure caps, I hadn't known about those. I just ordered myself a set.

 

[Punx0r]

The tube can definitely bunch up if the bike is pushed home with a flat tyre. I'd also check those pressure-sensing valve caps are air-tight (little dab of soaoy water).

Trying to sand down ribs on the tube so you can stick a patch is very difficult IMO. However, a safety shaving razor will remove them neatly in seconds. Better to use an old one if possible as I think it quickly blunts the blades.

Also, use slime in the tubes

 

[The fingers]

My slime tube needed air all the time. No visible leakage. :x

 

[alsmith]

No tube is airtight, they all slowly pass air through the rubber. All different rates, but I've that schwalbe seem slower than most. There are thorn resist tubes which are probably just thicker so may also leak more slower.

I checked the pressure indicating caps, I wanted to be sure they were ok before using them.

 

[alsmith]

Ok, another back wheel puncture caused by tyre creep so it's time to try one/many of those suggested methods. I'll try a web seach for any other methods too.

I had used a Schwalbe tube this time, it feels much higher quality than other tubes I've used, and feels thicker. The leak is in one area this time (the last as in 2 places), and scrapes are 'tighter' around the hole compared to the other tubes, mould marks are there but not as high as the other tubes. Definitely better quality but more expensive. It didn't get dragged around the tyre as much as the other 2 tubes. I even feel a bit of confidence in the rear, more tan the other tubes.

 

[atom1025]

Had that issue on my motor wheel. The torque from the mac was spinning it cutting the valve. I grabbed the wifes hairspray and sprayed inside the tire and around rim before inflating. Stuck like snot and cleans with water. I have used hairspray on bike grips since I was a kid and figured it'd work. :wink:

 

[alsmith]

Thanks, hairspray seems a good idea. I used to work for a company that made them-pump spray should be better than aerosol, firmer hold has more resin and it's solvent will evaporate quickly.

 

[alsmith]

I located another Michelin tyre of the same type and a comparison showed the bead of my problem tyre appears broken in comparison with the other tyre, and probably has about half of the tread left. I'll get a new tyre but I'm thinking I should probably junk the tyre rather than even keep as a spare.