Put Homemade Torque Arms On My X5

[xyster]

I have a hard time believing anyone is hardwired for anything

I disagree. I am hard-wired not to like cheese. I was brought up in a caring environment surrounded by people who loved cheese and extolled its virtues, but I still think it is made from the scrapings of people's feet. Explain that

I think the evidence suggests a hybrid nature-nurture design by natural selection: that genetics sets the boundaries of our abilities, and strongly influences our physical traits as well as personalities; and that environment and experience makes us who we are within those boundaries.

 

[Malcolm]

Agreed. It becomes especially obvious that we're hard-wired to some extent if you have kids of your own. You bring them up in broadly the same environment, but within a few months it becomes clear that they are completely different animals – and there's little you can do to change them, even if you wanted to. Vive la difference!

I'll shut up now and let you get back to your torque arm, which looks very chic in pink

 

[Ypedal]

The stainless looks beefy. I trashed a standard drillbit drillin stuff like that last week. Carbide-tip bits might be better.

:?

I know your pain, i murdered a pile of bits aleady ..

Titanium bits work well.. but you only get a few holes before they dull out..

Using cutting oil may help, but man that stuff is hard to drill..

 

[Toorbough ULL-Zeveigh]

As for reinf the rear triangle..
Does the rear kick stand provide some of that already?
That's the approach I would use of a vertical brace or a strap only wider.
But I can't guage how effective that kind of bolt on setup would be.

Carbide is the only thing that works well in stainless but you have to be soo careful not to apply any off axial torque or there goes your expensive bit. The stuf is so brittle it snaps in two if you practically breathe on it.
For smaller holes there's plenty of cheap diamond encrusted dremel type bits from China.
And instead of Titanium coated, I have yet to try the Cobalt impregnated bits which are supposed to be harder yet.

 

[Lowell]

Are you guys using a drill press with the proper speed to drill stainless? I work with SS all the time, and use average quality drill bits, but with the proper feed rate and RPM. I also use a Drill Doctor to touch up the cutting edges when cutting effort goes up.

 

[Ypedal]

Don't have a drill press .. yet..

I'm going to try the Cobalt bits tonight, i'll report back..

What speed/force should be used aprox ?

 

[xyster]

As for reinf the rear triangle..
Does the rear kick stand provide some of that already?

No, it doesn't support either leg of the triangle.

That's the approach I would use of a vertical brace or a strap only wider.
But I can't guage how effective that kind of bolt on setup would be.

That's a good idea -- probably easier to implement than long bolts. As I had to spread the dropouts to slip the motor in, this aluminum can obviously withstand some flex. I'm afraid the force as the front tire lifts into the air will prove enough to collapse the unreinforced triangle like an interstate bridge.

Carbide is the only thing that works well in stainless but you have to be soo careful not to apply any off axial torque or there goes your expensive bit. The stuf is so brittle it snaps in two if you practically breathe on it.
For smaller holes there's plenty of cheap diamond encrusted dremel type bits from China.
And instead of Titanium coated, I have yet to try the Cobalt impregnated bits which are supposed to be harder yet.

Good to know. I just bought a bunch of bits at a garage sale for a couple cents each -- all I know: they were cheap, and did the job at the rate of about 15 drill-minutes per hole.

 

[fechter]

Cobalt bits are about as brittle as carbide.

In the hospital, I get plenty of chances to drill stainless.

Use lots of pressure and slow speed. Lube helps. You need to keep the chips coming off the tip of the bit. They carry away most of the heat. Once you stop producing chips (swarf, curls, or whatever you call them), the bit is doomed. Once the tip heats up, it loses its hardness.

 

[Lowell]

Don't have a drill press .. yet..

I'm going to try the Cobalt bits tonight, i'll report back..

What speed/force should be used aprox ?

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/drillfaq.htm

Any machinists handbook will have suggested RPMs and feed rates, and will save you plenty in dulled drill bits. If drilling by hand, use lots of pressure and low rpms.

Paste lube won't make as much of a mess if you don't have a dedicated machine area.
http://www.anchorlube.com/

My drill press has a digital tachometer and CVT which makes drilling pretty much idiot proof, but there are plenty of good drill press deals for under $100 on craigslist etc.