Kevin Crawford
10 mW
Hi all,
I'm finishing up my 2nd ebike conversion. Per information found here, I replaced the original motor cable attached to the controller with the one that came with my Q100H motor, and matched the phase and hall wire colors to what was originally wired in, which was a cable for an eZee motor. The white wire, I left disconnected. The controller is the one that came with an eZee V2 kit, about three years old.
I had tested the motor in the wheel on a bench first. It seems to take quite a while to spin up, maybe 10 seconds for full speed, and makes a varying "whine" sound the whole time it's spinning. I wasn't sure this was a problem, so I continued the build.
It wasn't until I had the wheel in the bike when I realized the rotation is backwards. At least, it's backwards if the side of the hub with disc rotor bolts is on the non-drive side, which I thought was the rule.
Fortunately, it's a front wheel, so I just flipped it over. Yeah, the tread on the tire is backwards for now, but I figured I'd worry about that later.
Trouble is, I think I have a bigger problem. The motor has no power whatsoever. If there's any assist at all, I can't tell. I might as well just ride my road bike. I have a Cycle Analyst, and I'm using a 48V battery. I have the current limited to 5A so my battery pack lasts longer. With my eZee motor and the same parts, 250W was still a pretty decent assist. With me on the bike, this doesn't get anywhere close to the 5A limit. It gets to about 2.5A.
So I have to think something is wired or programmed wrong after all. I'm not expecting the amount of power my eZee had at maximum, but this motor can't possiby suck this much. I've checked the resistances of the windings all the way to the controller - as far as I can tell, they're zero ohms phase to phase, which seems low, but I'm thinking that must be normal. I've also checked the operation of the hall sensors at the controller. All three are working fine. I've checked the output signals to the phases in the controller - at max throttle, I get 42 VAC between every two phases.
So, it seems the controller and halls are working, and that the wiring (including the windings) is all intact. I'm thinking I must have to experiment with the phase and/or hall wiring configuration. Now I wish I had purchased an extra cable, because I could have made a nice testing and troubleshooting jig inline with it, instead of having to unsolder and resolder wires.
So, for those of you with experience, do I seem to be on the right track here? The only other thing I can think of is adjusting settings in the CA, but I skimmed through that and nothing stood out to me.
Any advice would be appreciated. And if any of you know where to get an extra motor cable in the US, or have one to sell, that would also be appreciated.
I'm finishing up my 2nd ebike conversion. Per information found here, I replaced the original motor cable attached to the controller with the one that came with my Q100H motor, and matched the phase and hall wire colors to what was originally wired in, which was a cable for an eZee motor. The white wire, I left disconnected. The controller is the one that came with an eZee V2 kit, about three years old.
I had tested the motor in the wheel on a bench first. It seems to take quite a while to spin up, maybe 10 seconds for full speed, and makes a varying "whine" sound the whole time it's spinning. I wasn't sure this was a problem, so I continued the build.
It wasn't until I had the wheel in the bike when I realized the rotation is backwards. At least, it's backwards if the side of the hub with disc rotor bolts is on the non-drive side, which I thought was the rule.
Fortunately, it's a front wheel, so I just flipped it over. Yeah, the tread on the tire is backwards for now, but I figured I'd worry about that later.
Trouble is, I think I have a bigger problem. The motor has no power whatsoever. If there's any assist at all, I can't tell. I might as well just ride my road bike. I have a Cycle Analyst, and I'm using a 48V battery. I have the current limited to 5A so my battery pack lasts longer. With my eZee motor and the same parts, 250W was still a pretty decent assist. With me on the bike, this doesn't get anywhere close to the 5A limit. It gets to about 2.5A.
So I have to think something is wired or programmed wrong after all. I'm not expecting the amount of power my eZee had at maximum, but this motor can't possiby suck this much. I've checked the resistances of the windings all the way to the controller - as far as I can tell, they're zero ohms phase to phase, which seems low, but I'm thinking that must be normal. I've also checked the operation of the hall sensors at the controller. All three are working fine. I've checked the output signals to the phases in the controller - at max throttle, I get 42 VAC between every two phases.
So, it seems the controller and halls are working, and that the wiring (including the windings) is all intact. I'm thinking I must have to experiment with the phase and/or hall wiring configuration. Now I wish I had purchased an extra cable, because I could have made a nice testing and troubleshooting jig inline with it, instead of having to unsolder and resolder wires.
So, for those of you with experience, do I seem to be on the right track here? The only other thing I can think of is adjusting settings in the CA, but I skimmed through that and nothing stood out to me.
Any advice would be appreciated. And if any of you know where to get an extra motor cable in the US, or have one to sell, that would also be appreciated.