Qulbix Raptor 140

It is my understanding that the MIN line has to do with the fork tube (stanchion) thickness. Many of the higher end forks have tapered walls to shave weight, and the walls start to thin below the MIN line. The crowns aren't supposed to clamp in these areas due to the reduced crush strength of the fork tube as well as the stress risers that are present near the clamping points.

From Marzo...

"The 888 forks’ stanchions whose external diameter has variable section
have to be fixed to the crowns so that the crown’s hole closes the
stanchion completely in the maximum diameter areas (see Picture 2A).
In double crown forks, in case of reference notches on the
stanchions, the lower part of the lower crown must be positioned
above the MIN notch and maximum 6 mm above the reference."

For the 888, there is a maximum distance that needs to be maintained between the crowns as well.

If you choose to ignore the recommendations, you risk damaging your fork tubes as well as yourself in the event of a failure.
 
I'm going to dig deeper into this. My stanchions are not variable size, but it does mention to keep it above the MIN mark.

I am not too happy about lowering my crown below the MIN mark. I lowered it right before you actually posted that.

I think I may be OK, first the lower clamps are 26mm wide, I went about 3mm below the MIN line, give or take a mm. So my lower clamp still has about 23mm of the 26mm still clamped above the MIN line.

The reason I lowered it below the MIN line is the upper clamp had about 1mm that was above the stanchions, and 2mm of it was on a black cap at the very top of the stanchions, which I didn't like it clamped to that.

So I made the decision to lower it a little to get it completely on the stanchions.
 
With regards to the forks, for those looking at second hand forks, what is the minimum steerer height that the forks can be cut down to, to be usable with most normal headsets?
 
Architectonic said:
With regards to the forks, for those looking at second hand forks, what is the minimum steerer height that the forks can be cut down to, to be usable with most normal headsets?
There's very few 44mm ID headsets available so your options are limited. It also then depends on what sort of stem you use - direct mount or otherwise.
I'm building another one shortly so will take measurements for you.

In other news, here's the first vid of a raptor 140. This is with a 26" front and 24" rear wheel fitted. Most of the footage is 1st person but there's also some side shots of the bike too mixed in. It got a lot of interest at the EV festival last weekend.

[youtube]LvtkUVJgnVc[/youtube]
 
Hey guys, question for you. Is the bearing on the swingarm attachment bolts supposed to have the thick heavy billet aluminum piece inserted or just a washer against the bearing as I have below?
 

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Also, here is an update on my progress. More photos in my thread. There is no avoiding the electrics for much longer. I still don't have my rear sprocket, chain, derailleur, tensioner situation worked out and the brakes aren't on either though.
 

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Mammalian04 said:
Also, here is an update on my progress. More photos in my thread. There is no avoiding the electrics for much longer. I still don't have my rear sprocket, chain, derailleur, tensioner situation worked out and the brakes aren't on either though.

Very Nice, I see you have also went with the 3.00-17 and 2.75-19 SR241 on the rear and front. Looks great! Can you do me a favor and kneel down a little and get a more even side profile pic. Also, whats up with the shim stack? :shock: You can cut that for tube a little. If you go over the bars, I see the potential for impaling.
 
Merlin said:
Your disc is scratching :-D
... On my wishlist now: driving my raptor on a racetrack
Oh yeah they were scraping something terrible, even worse the second day when I switched to a different motor that didn't line them up perfectly. They're only temporary brakes until my MT5s arrive then I'll ditch them.
But yes, it's great fun riding on a track!

Mammalian04 said:
Hey guys, question for you. Is the bearing on the swingarm attachment bolts supposed to have the thick heavy billet aluminum piece inserted or just a washer against the bearing as I have below?
I wasn't sure initially either but they don't go anywhere else so whack em in there!

Rix said:
Also, whats up with the shim stack? :shock: You can cut that for tube a little. If you go over the bars, I see the potential for impaling.
Yeah chop that shiz down! You can leave a little length if you think you may one day fit the forks to another bike but they shouldn't be that high.
 
Sure Rix, I'll take another shot in a bit.

Regarding the stack, I am mounting a kid seat to the stem so I am waiting to cut until know the proper length. Shims are borrowed and I have to give them back! ;)
 
I've yet to cut my steerer tube. Think resale value baby! joke, I've not figured out yet if I actually want to raise my bars.

Mine doesn't look that noticeable because I have a stem.

I'm always finding an excuse to post pictures of my bike :D

 
Mammalian04 said:
Sure Rix, I'll take another shot in a bit.

Regarding the stack, I am mounting a kid seat to the stem so I am waiting to cut until know the proper length. Shims are borrowed and I have to give them back! ;)


Sweet, can't wait to see the pics.

Offroader
I'm always finding an excuse to post pictures of my bike
Thats what these threads are all about, snap and post, tell a little story about the ride, setup circumstance where you are. Keep em coming.
 
As requested... a couple lower shots showing tire diameter difference.

Edit: sorry for the picture links. Not sure what's up when uploading from my phone...
 

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Mammalian04 said:
As requested... a couple lower shots showing tire diameter difference.

Edit: sorry for the picture links. Not sure what's up when uploading from my phone...

I like the big front tire, you have like an electric rokon.

[youtube]U7mTwM7afQA[/youtube]
 
Mammalian04 said:
As requested... a couple lower shots showing tire diameter difference.

Edit: sorry for the picture links. Not sure what's up when uploading from my phone...

Thanks for doing that. Gives a great perspective of what the Raptor looks like with moto wheels front and rear.
 
Can someone please post up a pic of the 140 with the side cover off. The quilbix website im sure has the measurements for the original raptor frame. I'm just keen to know if my 24S lipo will fit. its in 4 packs each pack is 90mm long. 150 high. and 115 wide. I'm thinking that there's room in the front, 60mm.

Looking forward to trying these forks

 
Those forks look to be the $h!t. Greyborg USA has them with dual disk front hub for 555.00 I have been tempted to buy them and try out. But I am so happy with the RSTs R One I haven't had the need to do so.
 

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Did Greyborg get more in? I tried for a long time to get a couple sets but he said he was indefinitely sold out. The dual disk hub is the other tough part to get....
 
Mammalian04 said:
Did Greyborg get more in? I tried for a long time to get a couple sets but he said he was indefinitely sold out. The dual disk hub is the other tough part to get....

$h!t, that's a good question? I just saw them on Zombies Website for 555 bucks with hub.
 
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