Saddle Seats And Handlebars. Is your bike setup correctly?

icecube57

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Apr 25, 2008
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Austell GA
Ok boys and girls Im here to talk to you today about your bike and seat ride height and saddle. Feel free to chip in and add your two cents.

If you are a serious bike rider Im pretty sure you have been to a bike shop to be sized for a bike. One of the most important things i saddle height and handlebar height. This can make or break the comfort of a bike.

If you have your seat too high and your handle bars too low you will be putting alot of your weight on your hands and you will put a strain on you back. This also shifts the weight off your butt but this can also cause you to grip your handlebars tighter than normal and your hands can fall alseep.

If you have your handlebars to high you create a greater surface area for your bike and motor to push through. Steering and handling can be affected.

If you have your seat to low any pedal force you apply will be wasted and applied at wrong angles and this can cause joint/knee pain. This can also make pedaling difficult causing you to pedal in a much lower gear because it seems difficult to pedal in higher gears.

Raising the seat a few inches can make a night and day difference on how effective your pedaling force is. This is great for hypemiling because you dont want any energy you body output wasted from working harder than you have to.

Typically the seat height on a bike is adjusted by raising the seat until your leg is near vertical with a slight bend at the knee when the pedal is at the bottom of the rotation of the crank. Using a higher/correctly adjusted seat high helps your chode (the skin between you anus and scrotum) from getting sore. This is because your legs are partially supporting your weight with every stroke and its not dead weight sitting on your chode and "sit bone"

The downside is sometimes this height can be so high that it makes it impossible to mount your bike. Also the higher seat height gives the bike a higher center of gravity when cornering making the bike feel top heavy.

Since we do have electric bikes pedaling isnt a must but when accelerating any input from pedaling from 0-20 or 25 the motor would be greatly appreciated of this effort. Even up hills a little bit of pedaling goes a long way.

So set your seat high to what style of riding you do. If you have a legal low powered system you may want to set your bike up to where you pedaling effort is more effortless and the bike feels more natural to ride. If you are a high speed racer with plenty of power and battery on tap then pedaling is least of your worries so a lower ride height is more appropriate. Your handling will be better and your ride stance will be more relaxed instead of more tense and ridgid with a higher seat height.

One thing to address is men and our junk... Yeah you know what Im talking about..... The family jewels. The long dong of donkey kong and his barrels..The banana and mandarin oranges in brown or white paper sacks... Depending on the cut of your pants can interfere with your seat ride height. My pants are more relaxed fit so the inseam of my pants sit lower than the base of my two brown eggs... So I often find myself pulling the slack in my pants up to where I can mount my saddle properly. But if I lower my saddle 2-3 inch mounting my bike isnt anywhere near as bad. I can mount my bike much quicker.

If you are going for a chopper stance with the lower seat height consider a saddle thats wide at the back and cut off in the front. One of the downsides to this is if you dont get the angle right on the saddle your legs will fall asleep.

People and their physical conditions to where they cant lift their leg up to clear the appropriate/ correctly fitted seat high should use lower saddle height somewhat closer to the heigh of a motorcyle and compensate the lower pedal power input with higher wattage output of the controller because their input will be closer to useless and bad for their hip and joints.

Another issue is if you are having problems with your junk getting tender and stuff and everythings adjusted correctly... is your bike geared correctly. If your gearing it to high you have a condition to where your pedal force applying any force to spin the wheel nor does it have any resistance to give your body that partial lift by the saddle. I have a 48f and and 11 rear. I can pedal up to the lower to mid 20s before I start to over spin. If you have a 14 or sometimes 16t on some bikes you are lucky to make it up to 15-17mph before pedaling is useless... then you have dead weight sitting on your ass bone and a sore taint is in you future.

You have seat post like the Thud Buster thats supposed to make your ride more comfortable but have you when you think of it when you do hit a bump it dampens the bump but you have the force of your body accelerating downward and then you have a counteracting force pushing up on your chode springing you back up... Its a good idea it helps on bumpy roads but in the long run its no better than a regular seat.

So choose your saddle based on your bike and riding style and physical capeability.

Another thing to address is the wide air and gel saddle. This I do recommend. Your sit bones are somewhat pointed . You have your ass muscles and fat if you have a little junk in the trunk to cushion this bone. These narrow regular saddles pretty much almost ride up your ass like a g string and offer no support. The wide gel seats have a wider foot print to accomidate many asses of different shapes and sizes and the gel or air molds or forms to the contour of your ass abone to offer more support. If you are an active pedaler tilting the saddle down can help alot to make it easier to pedal and make it more comfortable. Tilt to much and you have issues staying on the saddle and may slip off.
 
Ergonomy, performance, safety, comfort... One has to chose, mostly one at the detriment of other.

Seat very low on a plush long travel rear shock, riser stem on the 8in suspension fork, doesn't make my ride performance friendly. But, it's a beast that I mostly ride standing in mountain trails. In town, I'm a wind jammer, giving full chest to the air wearing slack open raincoat and baggy pants. The ultimate anti-lycra :mrgreen:
 
Yeah you choice is dependent on bike type and frame geometry. The Tidal Force has an extra long seat post to make up for the small frame... Lower it to much it interfers with my battery and rear rack to where the seat is sitting on my batts.
 
Say what you want about suspension posts they work and work very well. I rode with a cheapo suspension post for years and loved it. It relieved much of my butt and back pain. LAst year I bought a Thud Buster and while I have only limited riding with it so far I find it a good improvement over a standard suspension post because the movement is not straight down. It actually moves backward as it decends. So the downward movement is about 20% of a common suspension post. I've found so far that it's a great improvement. As for the handlebar height I find unless your in "race mode" you are better off with your handle bar raised heigh enough so you are not leaning forward on your wrists. This causes your wrists and hands to hurt significantly.

Bob
 
Chode. :roll: It's called a taint -- taint ass, taint equipment. :lol:

I like a low seat, personally. When I pedal I'll stand up to put in some real effort and then sit, tuck and coast. :)
 
Le Béte is setup for a classic sit-up-and-beg riding posture of the English three speed light roadsters.
Brooks boinger saddle and North Road bend handlebar on a tall stem.
The bar about 5" higher than the saddle that allows full leg extension. It's my most comfortable riding machine.

It was setup straight but the factory Xlyte wheel couldn't be dished any further so the bike is off centered.
To ride no handed my bumm has to slide a bit off the left side of the saddle.
The saddle nose kept moving slightly to the left and the leather became asymmetrically imprinted.
The bars have also shifted off-center to compensate.

The bike has adapted to the kinked riding position that's being imposed upon it.
 
If, god forbid, some of you like me had several deep perirectal abscess surgeries you would worry not about your "jewels" but about the other important part of your manly body :). The only saddle I can still ride without prior appointment with colorectal surgeon is Brooks B67 (because I can sit on my bones, not the a-spot). Gel seats somehow aggravated the problem for me, perhaps because they spread the pressure. But I find it much more comfortable riding recumbents now. And much cheaper if you consider medical bills. And less stressful with fewer thoughts of scalpel approaching from behind :?
 
Icecube, great post!!

This should be stickied in a FAQ section.
 
I use a Kindshock 950 seatpost. It's remote controlled from the handlebar , and can be dropped about 8 inches.
seatpost.jpg


.manitu
 
I must admit at work while I was patroling through the apartment complex making my rounds it felt so much better to have the seat down 3 inches. It made it much easier to mount with my semi baggy shorts. I didnt pedal as much but I could still put some effort into if i felt like it and feel comfortable and my consumption was alot higher but I have a controller and the batt with the balls to compensate. 66v 20AH if I run out with a pack that size will buy a motorcycle. It wasnt to taxing on my ass either it almost felt like i was riding a chopper i was just cruising with one hand on the handle bar just lightly guiding the bike around. When my seat is higher its almost like i have a pistol grip on the handle bar leaving imprints in my hand... but having it at the correct height it makes my pedaling so much more productive.
 
I'm long legged, and on some bikes just settle for setting the seat as high as it will go. On a pedaler, like my road bike or my cross country FS, the seat gets set high enough to be a bit difficult to mount. But on the ebikes the seats tend to get set about 1 inch lower, sacrificing just a bit of leg efficiency but not too low. I injured a knee ligament pretty bad a few years ago pedaling hard on an ebike with the seat way too low. So no more really low seats for me. Any that do have low seats due to short seatposts I ride with no more than faux pedaling.

The seat itself, I am tending to prefer seats with the slot in the taint area, and some, but not too much padding. Too much gel is worse than a hard cheap wallbike seat. Not wide seats, but not road bike narrow either. Pedal more, and the seat matters less since you are really just standing on one leg and then the other. Sit motoring, and my ass goes to sleep in less than 5 miles. Non suspension bikes get somewhat wider seats with good springs built in. Most spring seats have merely decorative springs. Good spring seats help a lot.
 
manitu said:
I use a Kindshock 950 seatpost. It's remote controlled from the handlebar , and can be dropped about 8 inches.

.manitu

Yeah, I looked at these and was torn between it and the Thud Buster. What I really would like is a combo of the Tuud Buster and the 950. I want the seat suspension but it's a little high when swinging my leg over. This is where the drop seat would be perfect. Not to mention when you stop for lights and stay mounted. Maybe someone will get smart and invent a combo post like that someday.

Bob
 
I guess this is sort of cheating but riding recumbents with the nice mesh seat tend to make other choices a non-issue. Even an old, big guy like me can do 30 miles and hardly notice it. This is one area where the recumbent has a huge advantage in comfort. I hope this is not too "off topic"1
otherDoc
 
Ditto...but I'd like to stress the importance of setting up the saddle and bars correctly for your body, if you don't do recumbent. :)

My knees are messed up primarily because of about 3 decades of riding without knowing a blamed thing about bikes except they hurt when you fall off of them. ;) So I never had one adjusted or setup or even close to measured for me, just whatever I could find whether it fit me or not, from childhood till end of 2005 or so. (at that point, I got my very first brand-new-in-the-box bike, and had to put it together completely, so learned a heckuva lot very fast, including why my knees hurt, but the damage was already done).

Anyway, make sure you adjust your stuff right, for you! :)
 
When I see those kids on bmx bikes, I just cringe at the potential knee damage they are doing, and not feeling it till they get older.

Could be worse though, they could be in football at school.
 
Good stuff.

Should mention also:

:arrow: adjustable stems

ritchey-adjustable-stem.jpg


Pretty good ergonomic investment for $20. Helps you find the posture that best suits you. Riser bars are also good. They can make an oversized bike frame more comfortable!

:arrow: wind resistance in different riding positions. Upright is the most comfortable and safest IMHO, but your chest acts like a giant sail.


Also, you guys don't like suspension seat posts? I figured they'd be a nice poor mans rear suspension. The body is the majority of weight on the rear wheel, so a suspension seat post might take some strain off of it.
 
I have a couple of different suspension seatposts, both low end, and don't like either but would rather have them than a total hardtail on DayGlo Avenger. ;)

Problem with them mainly is that it makes adjusting the seat height quite problematic, as the height CHANGES all the time. Even just pedalling hard like uphill on a smooth road it will change, as the seat moves up and down while you press harder or softer during the different parts of your pedal stroke. So you have to kind of make whatever the best compromise turns out to be for most of your riding. ALso, adjusting it in the first place is hard, because it does sink as you sit on it, and you have to play with it over and over to get it right for you (or to whatever middleground you find reasonable as compromise).


Another problem is that with the cheap one that came with DGA, if I clamp it hard enough to keep it from slowly sinking down into the seattube during road bumps and vibration, the shock sticks and doesnt' damp anything. :( I had to put an old broken socket driver and a spare extra-long spark-plug-remover socket down in the seattube for it to push down on so it wouldn't sink down, in order to have it loose enough to not crush the shock into immobility. :roll:

I'm sure the better ones don't have the latter types of problem, but the former is still gonna be an issue with any of them I can think of, to some degree.


Oh, and the cheap ones also don't have any real damping, so you just pogo up and down on your seat with all the bumps. Find a piece of road that has been recently resurfaced and rollered and it'll probably have a regular pattern to the waviness of small bumps, and at the right speed you'll wind up seasick from it. :lol:
 
amberwolf,

Your point about the pogoing up and down is why I changed from the cheepo suspension post to a Thud Buster. That and for a good ride on a cheepo post the height of the seat before mounting was much higher then when riding making mounting difficult. While the TB is not perfect I think much of the problems you mention are solved. As I mentioned in my first post on a TB post it does not just pogo straight up/down. It actually moves in a down and back motion. So on a cheepo post you may decend say 3 incks but on a TB you may decend 1" or so and move bacwad slightly. Of course to some that maybe still be an understandable issue. But for me who can not peddle that strongly anymore is great. The big problem I find is the suspension system makes for a problem for short riders. I am 6'2" and on my bike I have the post as low as I can put it. But I do have an oversized springed seat as well. But I would really like to lower the seat about another 1/2". They do offer another post that uses a smaller suspension unit and can be lower. I guess this would have been better for me and for shorter riders a must. You actually might find the TB post a nice alternitive for you. But a little expensive if you don't like it.

Bob
 
Dumbass:

A Thudbuster-fitting alternative that could help both your knees and get you a little more than the 1/2" you're looking for is to use 155mm crank arms instead of 170mm or 175. I'm considering the shorter crank arms for myself with a Thudbuster LT for the first reason and for my wife with a Thudbuster ST for the second reason.

I read that the shorter cranks usually result in a more comfortable driver choice to increase cadence with lower knee stress.

The greater comfort at higher cadences should also make it more pleasant to pedal assist at speeds > 25mph.
 
Lemlux said:
Dumbass:

A Thudbuster-fitting alternative that could help both your knees and get you a little more than the 1/2" you're looking for is to use 155mm crank arms instead of 170mm or 175. I'm considering the shorter crank arms for myself with a Thudbuster LT for the first reason and for my wife with a Thudbuster ST for the second reason.

I read that the shorter cranks usually result in a more comfortable driver choice to increase cadence with lower knee stress.

The greater comfort at higher cadences should also make it more pleasant to pedal assist at speeds > 25mph.

Yes, I agree 100%. I have been looking into changing out my peddle cranks to the 155mm. I have even considered stealing even smaller ones off my grand kids bike...LOL I am going to wait till I see how things workout this season first. As I mentioned I messed up my "good" knee at the start of last season. If I have a problem I am going to install 155mm crank arms.

Bob
 
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