A I finally figured this out....I think. So if you remember, when I re-assembled the motor the first time after installing the new vented side covers, the motor would not run properly. It seemed to act like a hall sensor issue and after much testing I noticed that the hall wires had continuity with the motor housing. So I opened the motor up again and sure enough I had pinched two of the small wires at some point during the re-assembly (24 AWG Teflon from my previous wire upgrade inside the motor). So to repair this right, I needed to cut and shorten all five of the wires. Knowing this is a recipe for mixing up wires, I was VERY careful to cut, solder, and shrink tube only one wire at a time. After the repair I also opened up the chanel in the axel a little more so that there was plenty of room for me to add a final piece of shrink tube covering all five wires where they come out through the axel. Here is where I learned a big lesson. I should have tested the halls before I put it all back together again. I learned from the troubleshooting section on the Grin site how to test halls both with the stator in or out of the motor body. Anyway, I didn't do that and just reassembled everything only to find that the motor symptoms were even worse. At this point when I turned the throttle the motor would move just a tiny bit and then freeze. So I did all of the tests listed in earlier posts and now found that the halls were not switching between 4.X volts and 0.0 volts. They seemed to be frozen with two of them reading a frozen 4.98V and one reading 1.75V...odd. I figured that somehow I had toasted my hall sensors. Took a couple of days and thought about it. Also sent a plea for information to Grin and then took off to San Fracisco to watch a Giants game. While I was there I went over to ebikes SF and met up with Illia. Really nice guy, and he had some replacement hall sensors in stock so I picked some up just in case I needed them later. Sadly, the Giants lost and and I headed home. On getting home I found an email awaiting me from Justin at Grin explaining that this sounded like a hall wire problem rather than a hall sensor problem and that you can get symptoms and readings like this if the hall ground and/or V+ wires get mixed up with any of the three signal wires. So, time to disassemble the motor again. Took the stator all the way out so that I could measure continuity from the connector housing all the way to the hall sensors themselves. Yep, you guessed it, somehow I got the V+ wire soldered onto the blue signal wire. I still can't figure out how that happened but the reality is unimpeachable. The really galling part is that I could have fixed the whole problem by simply swapping out two contacts in the connector housing. Here is where my new knowledge came in handy though. Befor ever putting the stator back into the motor housing I hooked the hall wire up to the controller and powered it up. While testing at the hall connector between the ground and each of the signal wires I put a strong magnet up to the hall sensors and was gratified when they all switched back and forth when turning the magnet over from north to south. So that is where I am at present. Tomorrow morning I will be putting everything back together, making a blood sacrifice, crossing my fingers and holding a good thought for the how great Grin is. Here's to hoping. Obiwan
