Stealth bomber clone help

[Cam3roon2k41999]

Hi I purchased a 26" 4.0" fat tyre 3000w motor for my Stealth bomber and o have had to fit the wheel half way into the dropouts because if I put the wheel fully seated the tyre would be rubbing significantly off the back of the swingarm and also the rear shock would rub on the tyre when compressed.
Will it be safe to ride it like this as Ive already been out and it's been fine but not sure weather it's a risk of the wheel falling out?
Thanks for any replies I appreciate it

 

[amberwolf]

Sure, that's why we're here.

 

[Cam3roon2k41999]

Thanks, there's also a few other things I need advice on but it's not that important as of yet,
I'm wanting to install some indicators to my bike and a brake light, I already have turn signals but they're very bad lol,
They're hooked up to a switch with left/right turn signals, lights rear and front and a horn switch,
If I get a DC,/DC converter 72v to 12v how would I connect turn signals as I'll need relays etc but it seems pretty confusing lol sorry if I'm asking too much at once I'm a pain in the ass

 

[Chalo]

https://www.amazon.com/Partsam-Universal-Motorcycle-Flexible-Motorbikes/dp/B0140XMI1Q

For the turn signals, put the LED compatible flasher relay before the switch. Relays may not be required for tail and brake lights, if the switches are capable of handling the power of the LEDs (which they probably are).

 

[amberwolf]

There are many motorcycle style turn signals that have built in blinkers, as well as LED strips intended as signal/marker/accents on car headlight/taillight units, which will save you a bit of wiring and a central turn signal relay. A couple of my recent posts in other threads show these types of strips mounted on my SB Cruiser trike and link to some on ebay.

Some of these are very visible even in daylight; the more surface area they have (the bigger they are) the better they'll be for signalling to others because they will be more likely to see them. There are also tiny super bright ones but these are worse because in daylight they'll be little point sources and at night they'll be blindingly bright.


Are the turn signals you already have 12V? Or do they run off the 72v main battery?


Also, note that a DC-DC that is actually 12v is a little low for what's commonly called 12v lighting stuff. They actually take 13-15v; if you get one that outputs in that range all the lighting will generally be brigther (someitmes significantly) than at only 12v.

(I use a 15v DC-DC for some of my lighting like the signals and smaller marker strips, and for the automotive halogen headlight I use a 4s NMC battery that averages around 14-15v. I use an automotive relay with built in fuse to control the lighting as a whole, and a separate one for the headlight, so that the tiny switch on my handlebars and small wiring doesn't have to handle any of that current. I'm not presently using relays for the turn signals as they don't use enough current to worry about, but I have spares to do so with when I someday get to rewiring that stuff, if ever.)



If you have to rewire things for any reason, then for a pretty good tutorial and wiring setup I recommend Teklektik's Yuba Mundo cargo bike thread; it has a section on wiring the lighting and signals that includes diagrams and parts lists.

 

[Chalo]

There are also tiny super bright ones but these are worse because in daylight they'll be little point sources and at night they'll be blindingly bright.

Whatever causes motorists pain moves us a small step closer to parity.

I want fast acting retractable bollards in the middle of the lane that can be actuated instantly by a beg button.

 

[amberwolf]

It doesn't affect just motorists. It affects anyone near the road that's trying to see, including pedestrians and cyclists.

I get blinded by people using these on bicycles and motorcycles, as well as those cars and trucks using headlights so intensely bright that they would have been called offroad lights and made illegal for city use not all that long ago.

Sometimes the point source lights are so suddenly bright and painful I have to slow down so much so suddley that other road traffic is in danger of hitting me.

Thankfully there arent' that many of them; most of the lights are either large surface area, or just plain dim or normal brightness.

The worst offenders for my personally (other than those car headlights, which are worse than anything else by far) are typically the white flashing searchlights some people use as bicycle headlights coming straight at me on otherwise unlit paths; I cannot see *anything* at all, not even the ground in front of me, with those flashing in my eyes. If they were not flashing my eyes might have a chance to get used to them, but even a long way away they are so bright and pointlike, and pointing straight at eye level (rather than lighting the ground so they can actually see with them). Mostly they need to turn them down in situations they don't need that kind of brightness in. (like how I turn off my automotive headlight when I'm not in traffic or other situations where it's required to see the road, and only use my regular LED lighting and downlighting. I still need to add a switch to turn off the LED accent strip marker lighting in front, as it is too bright for unlit paths, but at least it is not concentrated in a single point).

 

[Cam3roon2k41999]

Thanks for the info on that my turn signals that I have installed now are ok but they seem pretty close together so I preferably would like them spaced out more but it's one whole unit and it's running directly from 72v,
I'll have a look into those strips you where talking about it sounds interesting, someone told me to 3d print some 90° angles of aluminium or steel for turn signal mounts but I don't have a 3d printer
My SB is a little bit of a death trap at the moment as when I first built the bike with 26" wheels I didn't have a thru axle rim to fit the triple crown forks and it was going to cost me £400 for a rim lol
Do you have any ideas on any decent forks that are suitable for my SB and quick release or wheel nuts,
Looking forward to you're reply

 

[amberwolf]

Thanks for the info on that my turn signals that I have installed now are ok but they seem pretty close together so I preferably would like them spaced out more but it's one whole unit and it's running directly from 72v,
I'll have a look into those strips you where talking about it sounds interesting, someone told me to 3d print some 90° angles of aluminium or steel for turn signal mounts but I don't have a 3d printer

You can almsot certainly just go to the hardware store and find something (or a set of somethings) that will let you bolt something together to space things out more.

If you like the unit you have but it's just not wide enough, you could get a second identical unit, and put each one sticking out to the appropriate side as far as you need to, using the hardware store stuff.

Then move the wire for the righthand turn signal off of the left hand unit to the righthand unit, and add wires from the power, ground, tail, brake lights on the lefthand unit to the righthand unit (so you only have left turn signal on the left unit, and only right on the right unit, but everything else on each one is wired the same between them).

The strips I referenced are available in various types; they could be used on your frame and/or forks, depending on layout and design of the bike, or you could use hardware store bits to make a vertical or horizontal mount for them.

There are also many decent (and some good, and a lot of crappy) motorcycle lights and signals that are designed to just bolt onto various bike designs, some generic and some specific to a particular brand or model of bike. Some stick out more than others, and most could be made to stick out more with hardware store bits and bobs.

I used a set of rear signals from goodwill that are meant to stick out farther, on the front of SB Cruiser to stick out *less*, by bolting them together as a "wing" under my peek-around-cars/corners mirror. Images attached at the end of the post, if useful.

My SB is a little bit of a death trap at the moment as when I first built the bike with 26" wheels I didn't have a thru axle rim to fit the triple crown forks and it was going to cost me £400 for a rim lol

There's no such thing as a "thru axle rim". A rim is just a rim.

The hub you use to build the rim (and spokes) into a wheel, now *that* you would need to get in thru-axle version, if the fork you have uses thru-axle. Alternately you can buy a whole wheel that already has the right hub for you.

Do you have any ideas on any decent forks that are suitable for my SB and quick release or wheel nuts,
Looking forward to you're reply

That I don't know. There are a number of threads for various clone "stealth" frame builds; you can look thru them to see if one has the same headtube as yours to see what fork they used, and if that suits your application.


FWIW, a good fork is likely to cost more than a good wheel, just based on stuff I've seen posted around the forums over the years.

 

[willstealthy]

Wow amberwolf...are you ai?

 

[amberwolf]

No, I'm not even natural "i". :lol: