Successful overvolting on Ananda Controller

Seems the throttle is OK
On the controller, you need to find the correct wire for the hall feed for the throttle. From your first test it sounds like you had +5V going to the controller instead of the hall sig.
I think your controller is unrestricted if nothing is connected to those white wires. In my photo it is fitted with a small pot (variable resistor).
 
Besides acting as the commutator for the brushless DC hub motor, the controller provides for motor control by the throttle and the PAS sensor. Mine is not doing that---the wheel turns at full speed whenever 36 volts is applied---period. From other tests, I am convinced the controller is bad---somewhere in one of the small chips it is telling the motor to run when the motor should not run.

A list of all the parts (including a new controller) needed to make a real ebike out of this thing comes to well over USD$700. That's half the price of a brand new ebike here from several sources. And that's just the parts---my time is free.

At this time the effort and investment do not seem worth the trouble.
 
You can call it "quitter's remorse" if you like. This project is continuing. With parts unavailable from the source, R Martin, I take heart from all these posts and am attempting to design my own eBike from parts I can find, both locally and on the Internet. The cut wires have been extended into the box under the crank where all the wiring comes together. A new controller should be here in a few days. Other parts are on order, and when it works sitting upside down and powered by three car batteries (36 volts) then, and only then, will I invest in a bike battery. Both SLA and Lithium are available to me (and will fit in the space of the original SLA battery)- lithium is twice the price of SLA. When it works I will post the result.
 
Today I rode the "restored" R Martin E-1100. Some US$400 cash and at least 100 hours went into it. Photos and wiring diagram are attached. A new controller made the throttle work right. A 36 volt combination headlight/key switch/battery monitor/horn was found on Amazon.com. Three 12 volt, 12 AH SLA batteries are taped together to power the beast. My thanks to all those in China, Australia, and the USA who contributed to my learning curve.
 

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Good to see you got it going.
You might be able to make a case for those batteries using some rectangular plastic downpipe and fittiings.
 
I thought about a case, but the battery challenge was finding SLA's that would fit in the 4-inch by 5-inch (10 x 13 cm.) space provided by the bike frame. I got three 12 AH 12 volt batteries (Werker WKA12-12F2) and placed them end to end, total 18 inches (46 cm.) long. Then I wrapped them end to end with doubled layers of 10 mil thick plastic tape---the kind plumbers use for wrapping black iron gas pipe before burying it. It's a pretty solid block. A replaceable 10 amp fuse and a polarized connector finished the battery pack. It just fits in the frame space. For double the money I could have gotten lithium batteries in a shiny case with a fuse and key.

Thanks again for your help and encouragement. ---Jim
 
Hi
Thanks for all the information regarding Ananda controllers, I have a 3615DLC-10G0 with a blown FET, having changed the FET along with the voltage regulator LM317T still no go so has anyone any idea where I can purchase one in the UK ?
I have emailed Ananda but as yet no reply.
Thank you for any information.
 
The 6-FET ShenZhen from BMS Battery is pretty much the same, I believe.
And it's cheap, shipping will be more than the controller.
 
Ananda controllers were used a lot in Currie ebikes. Don't know where to get them in the UK but you can get it in Australia from here http://www.evehicles.com.au/Products/Parts/Controllers/

Ananda controllers were also used in R Martin ebikes, so you could search for UK sellers of them.

But really, as was said above, you could replace the controller with another 'generic' one with similar ratings and functions
 
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