What is the P3? I have a problem with a 2020 Surron that is an electronic throttle. In the past it turned on correctly meaning the display said P1 and then E2. Since yesterday it displays P1 and then P3 and the throttle does not work. No other errors are displayed. Any ideas?
Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike
- Thread starter Allex
- Start date
noneedlessnoise
1 mW
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- Oct 19, 2018
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You guys see this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3LiKQQpENQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3LiKQQpENQ
noneedlessnoise said:
Bet that guy had to change his shorts after that. Probably made a pretty loud bang. At least the battery didn't seem to burn. The main circuit breaker is pretty hard to trip. It has to be overloaded for some time before it heats up enough to trip. That thing blew quickly and the short turned into plasma. Interesting that it was just sitting there and it took a second or so after turning on the power.
noneedlessnoise
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That’s my bike and me in the video. The bike has a prototype Luna 72v battery on it which uses dual xt90s connectors for power instead of the stock connector. So it bypasses the stock power harness and breaker and plugs directly into the controller. I asked multiple times and they swore up and down it was supposed to operate without the breaker and I confirmed it was wired as intended. The lead engineer at Luna sent me a huge breakdown on why it bypasses the breaker and how. Anyway the controller grenaded as you can see and pretty much the whole bike is toast other than suspension and wheels. It was fun while it lasted.
Even if there was a circuit breaker of fuse, it may have still blown up the same way. One a part shorts, the breaker can't trip fast enough. It may have prevented things from burning after the explosion though.
It looks like the FETs blew, but it would be nice to know for sure what exactly failed. From the video, other than the controller, wiring and some plastic parts, it seems like the bike would be fixable.
It looks like the FETs blew, but it would be nice to know for sure what exactly failed. From the video, other than the controller, wiring and some plastic parts, it seems like the bike would be fixable.
noneedlessnoise
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I was contacted directly by Sur Ron in china and they said they do not want me riding the bike until they investigate because they are worried the fire compromised the rigidity of the frame. The fireball was large and intense.
noneedlessnoise
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From what I understand the ground wire somehow shorted the W terminal on the BAC4000 and caused an arc that blew the FETs as you said, thus a fireball. The positive discharge terminals on the battery are smoked as is the battery harness.
I think the lack of a circuit breaker is what smoked the battery plugs even if the short was on the minus mainline.What was Luna’s thinking of not including that?I blew a fet on my Bac8000 from using a EBay Bac8000 terminal block that replaces the lower blue cover,the included screws where to short so put longer one’s,6 months later I turned the key on and went 2ft forward when it shut down.I had trouble code 1-8 which is fet shorted,tested all three phases and found one shorted.Took off the terminal cover( that replaced the stock cover) and under the grey potting found the screw had contacted a metal round rod.There was no arc evidence or smell but sounds like something similar happened,definitely self inflicted on my part but glad it wasn’t more damaging.
noneedlessnoise
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No idea. They sent me a long explanation of why they eliminated the circuit breaker but a lot of the info is above my head and I was just asking because the ASI vendor wanted the info.
noneedlessnoise
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It does have a BMS but Luna would not provide any information on it so I have no way to access it. I downloaded every BMS app I could find and none of them could see it.
I use AMT Bms app but it goes to sleep after 2hrs unless balancing or charge/ discharge turns it back on.Would be interesting to see how it was setup.I installed one of these into my stock battery because I was nervous running it bypassed ,it is the 16s 80a continuous /150 intermittent set to 150amps for short protection.
Nice looking batteries!
The stock circuit breaker is rated for 100A, but will easily handle a short burst of 200A without tripping. I've been expecting mine to trip but so far it never has. The bike just speeds up so fast the current can't stay that high for very long. Maybe with field weakening it might be another story. Someplace I have a graph of current vs. time to trip the breaker but I can't seem to find it now.
The stock circuit breaker is rated for 100A, but will easily handle a short burst of 200A without tripping. I've been expecting mine to trip but so far it never has. The bike just speeds up so fast the current can't stay that high for very long. Maybe with field weakening it might be another story. Someplace I have a graph of current vs. time to trip the breaker but I can't seem to find it now.
FWIW my intermittent problems on my 2019X became continuous, no go. After reviewing all the possibilities, I replaced the controller, it's fixed.
Trouble begin with occasional erratic throttle response and a few reluctant starts. Replaced stock with electric throttle, got a few more rides but still had rare weird response to first twist. Then dead. All safeties disconnected, all wiring and connectors good, hall sensors good, throttle voltage good, so needed a new X controller after 18months, 500 trail miles. Unusual failure?
Trouble begin with occasional erratic throttle response and a few reluctant starts. Replaced stock with electric throttle, got a few more rides but still had rare weird response to first twist. Then dead. All safeties disconnected, all wiring and connectors good, hall sensors good, throttle voltage good, so needed a new X controller after 18months, 500 trail miles. Unusual failure?
It seems the latest Surron’s are having more problems than the older batch,I think Surron is getting lazy or something else is in play,last years bikes that my friends bought didn’t have problems,this year that my friends bought have had X controller issues,Rst fork issues and other little things,Luna has warranty most of the stuff but sometimes take time to sort out.
Hi, i bought surron about 3 months ago, and lookin for power upgrade. I read about controller draws 80A battery current and about 450A phase current. But i measured it and battery current i have is 60A, and peak +370, -340 Phase amps. I have a 2020 surron l1e X controller. And today i decided to modify it 
So i opened it and broke (-) Battery terminal - easy solderable back - so fixable, but can anyone tell me how to depotting it ? I tried Acetone and it seems to not work, only work high temperature - so i tried hotairgun, and soldering iron, and finaly loose connector and clean around (-) terminal, But i cant imagine do it for whole controller it tooks me about 2 hours so do you guys know about some gentle and not time consuming method ? Thanks i will inform you about shunt mod
So i opened it and broke (-) Battery terminal - easy solderable back - so fixable, but can anyone tell me how to depotting it ? I tried Acetone and it seems to not work, only work high temperature - so i tried hotairgun, and soldering iron, and finaly loose connector and clean around (-) terminal, But i cant imagine do it for whole controller it tooks me about 2 hours so do you guys know about some gentle and not time consuming method ? Thanks i will inform you about shunt mod Attachments
The terminal posts are not so easy to solder back. It takes a lot of heat. More heat than my biggest two soldering irons at the same time. The only way I know of to remove the potting is to heat it to around 80-100C where it becomes rubbery, then dig it out with a small screwdriver. It is easy to damage components under the potting.
I will borrow solder station from work, its high power JBC - so i thing this will be easy job. Yes i know i can heat up, but iam a little worry about electrolytic caps, they are rated for 105C max... so i dont want to damage them and also mechanicaly damage other components as i will removing potting by screw driver So its there another way ?
So its there another way ?yes, continuity is there, but i dont know if there isnt a shunt for sensing battery current - its small resistance that multimeter shows continuity, but if i connect it direct to red wire i will bypass this sensing resistor and controller will burn and also i want to peel of all potting and try modify shunt for battery, and modify hall sensors to increase phase current and after it will burn i will do my own powerstage with VESC brain, or buy some ASI/NUCULAR etc....
and also i want to peel of all potting and try modify shunt for battery, and modify hall sensors to increase phase current and after it will burn i will do my own powerstage with VESC brain, or buy some ASI/NUCULAR etc....
3DTOPO
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I was going up a super steep slope and next thing I knew my my chain slid off.
Turns out the nut on the real wheel axle somehow came off. I can find the aluminum spacer for sale, but not the nut.
Anyone know where to get a replacement in the US, or what the specs for the rear axle nut are?
Turns out the nut on the real wheel axle somehow came off. I can find the aluminum spacer for sale, but not the nut.
Anyone know where to get a replacement in the US, or what the specs for the rear axle nut are?
Right hand thread. You can find lug nuts for car wheels in that size.
