Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike

Hi,
thanks for DC resistance measurment, 10mOhms is what i expected. Its good for stock surron power, at constant 100Amps it will heat at 100W only on copper resistance, but for higher phase amps like 600A uphill its 3600W :D
A little update:
Mosfets have already arrived and I soldered them. It was pretty hard, i must use IR preheat, and hot air gun, classic SMD soldering air station did not have sufficient power. Now I have assembled the controller and see if it still works on surron, and hope i will finaly shunt it to BMS limit, and then shunt BMS to maximum cell current, and then shunt controller for maximum with can stock battery handle :D
 

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Anyone selling those 60v52ah batteries in the US? Trying to avoid a few months of shipping time. :?
 
Hi, a little update:
I succeeded shunted it ! :D
firstly i changed sensitivity from 50mV/10A (batt current 60amp, phs current +-350A) to 33mV/10A - power increased to 83A battery, and 430 phase current, so i changed it to about 25mv/10A (double of my stock power) and now i drawing about 118 battery amps, and 550 phase amps. And it drives as hell ! its whelee machine now, it do wheel spin or instant whelee from standstill :D
I will increase it to about 125 battery amps, and must do shunt BMS, now i get er - 119 on display which is overcurrent fault, or BMS cuts me in a long hill when i run full throttle...
I thing controller can handle even more amps, but stock battery limits me, there is only 11 cells paralel and each cell is 10Amps continous discharge... And i dont want to damage it.
Later i will maybe post some youtube video how to do, and with results.

edit: Does anyone know how much battery current is drawing ASI BAC / NUCULAR on stock surron battery with BMS mod bypass ?
 
Battery 72v58Ah (4.2kwh) with custom cover and spaces to seat, range~75miles, peak power 19kw
 

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it: Does anyone know how much battery current is drawing ASI BAC / NUCULAR on stock surron battery with BMS mod bypass ?
[/quote]how much you put and how much it will be! connect the wattmeter and you will see how the canteen battery is bad at 100A)
 
Would anyone know if my battery would have drained down completely?

I have my own modified power supply to charge the sur-ron. However, if I plug in the charger and disconnect the AC power to the charger, the charger still stays on from the power of the battery. This drained my battery down very quickly.

Does anyone know if the charge port of the sur-ron is low voltage protected? Or if my AC power gets unplugged my battery will discharge to 0 volts from the charge port?
 
I think you can discharge from the charge port with no protection. Most PSUs will only drain a few milliamperes when disconnected from AC. It would take a really long time to completely drain the pack.
One solution to the charger is to put a relay in series with the output that is powered by the AC line.
 
stepus said:
Hi, a little update:
I succeeded shunted it ! :D
firstly i changed sensitivity from 50mV/10A (batt current 60amp, phs current +-350A) to 33mV/10A - power increased to 83A battery, and 430 phase current, so i changed it to about 25mv/10A (double of my stock power) and now i drawing about 118 battery amps, and 550 phase amps. And it drives as hell ! its whelee machine now, it do wheel spin or instant whelee from standstill :D
I will increase it to about 125 battery amps, and must do shunt BMS, now i get er - 119 on display which is overcurrent fault, or BMS cuts me in a long hill when i run full throttle...

How did you change the current limit?

It can take at least 180A battery without frying if you have a bigger battery.
 
i have seen on youtube videos that ASI BAC is set for about 120 battery amps on stock battery , so i lowered a little bit sensitivity to increase power a little bit :D
I have a stock surron battery, i need to modify bms to let me draw bigger current continously, now it let me draw about 7seconds 118Amps, and then cut me off.
Yes i thing too, that controller is capable more battery amps, and even maybe 72V will survive... but now i have a stock surron battery which is weak so i dont want to push it too much over the limit. Maybe later i will buy some 72V battery for more power. :D
i have changed current limit by offseting that rings around hall sensors - weaken magnetic flux flowing throught hall sensor -> smaller sensitivity... I will post some photos/video later...

Stasus said:
Battery 72v58Ah (4.2kwh) with custom cover and spaces to seat, range~75miles, peak power 19kw
your setup is great, but battery + ASI costs as a half of surron, my mod costs me only 25 bucks for extra transistors :D , And i have L1E version, so everything on DASH is working and no warning lights etc,mine looks like a sleeper - not modified bike so i can confuse another surron drivers :D
 
Stasus - The battery in your picture below doesn't seem large enough for 4.2KWH of batteries? Can you tell us what type and quantity of cells you are using?
 
I have a litespeed 20s10p 72v40ah Using Molicel P42A 21700 Cells that is at least as tall as the one pictured below.

So my question is how did you get 42 KWH into the same size or smaller package???
 
BigBird said:
I have a litespeed 20s10p 72v40ah Using Molicel P42A 21700 Cells that is at least as tall as the one pictured below.

So my question is how did you get 42 KWH into the same size or smaller package???

I’m guessing it’s pouch cells. Same way they can fit nearly 52ah in almost the same size as the stock battery.
 
I'm using the new Chi Battery. 60v, 63ah, 3,628wh. It uses Molicels. Same size as stock battery. Stock battery cover works fine.
 
The CHI Battery is a Very interesting product! I have 3 questions (which I just posted on their Facebook page.
1 - How is it that you are able to get so many Watt Hours into a pack that is only a little bigger than the stock SurRon and much smaller than competitors (like Lite Speed) need for fewer Watt Hours?
2 - And since your battery is used with the stock SurRon controller - Does that mean that you have some how limited the peak amp output to something not too much above stock SurRon?
3 - What is your max steady amp output and will it trip the SurRon BMS limits if you stay on the power for too long?
 
CHI battery says they are posting a newer version of the battery this coming week. Very excited to see what they mean. Definitely gonna pick one up.
 
Offroader said:
Would anyone know if my battery would have drained down completely?

I have my own modified power supply to charge the sur-ron. However, if I plug in the charger and disconnect the AC power to the charger, the charger still stays on from the power of the battery. This drained my battery down very quickly.

Does anyone know if the charge port of the sur-ron is low voltage protected? Or if my AC power gets unplugged my battery will discharge to 0 volts from the charge port?

You need an IDEAL DIODE CIRCUIT between the charger and the Sur ron Battery.

search for Ideal Diode on amazon...
 
I finally made that video about shunting the controller :D
[youtube]kjQT7CpUh-M[/youtube]
and some hi quality photos :
 

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20kW Sur-ron controller for sale guys!
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=111908

file.php
 
When adjusting the chain on the Sur-ron,

Do you need to have the notches line up on both sides? What I found is that if I loosen the tension bolt down on one side and then use the other side to adjust the chain tension. When I tighten back up the 17mm axle bolt the notches don't line up on both sides.

You would think that the tire should line up when the axle bolt is tightened up flush against the swing arm, even though the notches don't line up.

There is no way I can see if my tire is lined up by eye.

Any input into this or how you deal with it will be appreciated as I am uncertain how the rear wheel should be tightened back up and if that has anything to do with tire alignment also. I am also uncertain if the notches are really an accurate way of knowing if the wheel is aligned also, so I'm just leaning on using the swingarm and axle bolt to align it like what I have done on other ebikes without these notches.
 
On mine, the notches are off a little from one side to the other. I'm running a belt, so alignment is critical. I used a straight edge across the rear sprocket that goes up to the jackshaft and adjust until they are lined up perfectly.
 
fechter said:
On mine, the notches are off a little from one side to the other. I'm running a belt, so alignment is critical. I used a straight edge across the rear sprocket that goes up to the jackshaft and adjust until they are lined up perfectly.

Interesting, this is what I figured you can't trust those notches. I think there is misinformation about this as some videos say to align based on the notches.

When you did align with a straight edge did you need to use those little tension bolts to adjust the wheel?

Was your alignment pretty close to just tightening the wheel in the dropouts and using the dropouts to align the rear wheel?

Since I'm using a chain do you think I need to worry about alignment that much, or just tighten it inside the dropouts and that should be good enough? That is what I have been doing and everything seems to work out well, plus my brake caliper stays aligned every time also because it gets the wheel in the exact same spot every time.
 
Offroader said:
fechter said:
On mine, the notches are off a little from one side to the other. I'm running a belt, so alignment is critical. I used a straight edge across the rear sprocket that goes up to the jackshaft and adjust until they are lined up perfectly.

Interesting, this is what I figured you can't trust those notches. I think there is misinformation about this as some videos say to align based on the notches.

When you did align with a straight edge did you need to use those little tension bolts to adjust the wheel?

Was your alignment pretty close to just tightening the wheel in the dropouts and using the dropouts to align the rear wheel?

Since I'm using a chain do you think I need to worry about alignment that much, or just tighten it inside the dropouts and that should be good enough? That is what I have been doing and everything seems to work out well, plus my brake caliper stays aligned every time also because it gets the wheel in the exact same spot every time.

I know I read in motocross magazine that pro mx mechanics sometimes dont even use the notches when aligning. The method they use is measuring the axle center to the swingarm pivot center side to side. This removes any machining issues that occur with the axle blocks
 
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