Suzuki GSX-R e899 K2

liveforphysics said:
SD500 sounds like a huge win for your upgrade path. What a blessing! That chassis should support a lot of HP.

First problem is that I have only 1-2mm left on each side of the frame at that point the frame get smaller to the seat and I am pretty sure that the widths will grow up more. So no way to get it in. But they build only a prototype.
The second problem will be the battery support. I can only mount 2P and to pull 800A out of 2P battery …. I don’t know but I think that’s to hard at battery life fence.
The third point … my pockets are empty! Have to buy first the rest of batteries I needed for SD300 and this will also take a while! In the meanwhile I will play with the old ones I have 😉
 
Now I got connection between Display and PC.
Was fighting with a loose contact inside the display connector.
Now I can start with connection to controller.
 

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Next Wednesday I will continue the test run on airplane field.
I will rise up the current to 500Arms, higher the voltage and lower the air pressure in rear tire!
 
Ok, yesterday I did a 2nd track day @ airport landing field.
I increase the voltage from 200VDC to 350VDC
01_IMG_8330_klein.jpg
and could also increase the topspeed from 89.5 kph to
IMG_4500a_klein.jpg

I will stay now with this setting for Lausitzring and have a look at this result there!
 
Pls find attached the little video clip:
[youtube]-9zYfshFppk[/youtube]
 
Have prepared now 3 x 4S batteries per side to reach half of the voltage (400V DC) and half of the motor turns.
 

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Slowly getting faster :thumb:
That's the smart way of going forward.
Very curious what this bike is capable of when "fully powered".
 
Ok, I made two runs last weekend at 400V DC with the 500a setup including 30% and 35 percent on L8-Night event at Lausitzring. I had/have two problems
1. Controller shut down when I fully turn the throttle switch. I already knowed this issue with my little test runs before. So I decided to turn slowly for short and after 5-10m for full. Then he worked fine and it feels like fun!
2nd: The track itself. Starting point was at the end of a banked curve, which has a little tilt to the right side. Which leads to the point of slippery to right side with the rear wheel, if you try to push hard from beginning. It happened to me at first run!
But everyone has to fight with this topic. With everyone I mean cars. But there were also a Vespa with 50hp and two Simsons!
At first run I drove alone without a competitor!
When I drove back true the box area I earned some whisleds.
To slow, no sound. It was a car event with a lot of cars which had over 1000 hp’s!

For the second run I got a competitor (1300hp VW Golf IV RS32 I think).
Here I made a failure which save me a red light. During full stage I tried to start my internal RaceBox pro. But just in time it says good bye. When I look back to the lights I saw red and the competitor saw already the 3rd light and then green!
In parallel I put back my Hand to the left handle bar and decided to start even with red light. So the car was 5m in front when I started. My time was already running with the red light (I suggest). Of course I loose against this 1300hp monster. But at the first meters it looks like that I came closer to him before his huge power will shot him over the finish line.
So he was running a 11,0 sec.
My first run you see on the picture, my second run was not tracked but I got the information that I hit exactly the 200 kph. And this was my little finish with the voltage of 400V!
 

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Good progress. Nothing broke and you learned a lot :thumb:
Could the controller shutting off at wide open throttle be due to over current or under voltage setting/spikes?
 
Remember that phase current is what a controller drives to the motor, and pack current is the voltage source it buck-converts into your motors phase windings to drive the phase current. This is why even if you got the 800Amp controller but only had a battery capable of say 400Amps, it would still let you drive 800Amps into the motors phase currents up to the point the motors BEMF was high enough that it was exceeding the pack voltage limits (most importantly, this would mean passed the 60ft mark).
 
I actually don’t know the real reason for shut of. Because I had no notebook next to me during a run.
I think I have to test it in a safe area to read out the failure code. Maybe in two weeks I can get a next run to test it.
But yeah, the most important thing was that everything survived 😉.
 
The "notebook next to you during a run" is called "data logging" :wink:
Recording info can help determine what's happening. Even a simple (phone) camera pointed at the dash can do that.
 
I know but I haven’t parameterized the dash yet. To get the data from the controller! Have to check a data logger inside the controller is running automatically and will be possible to read out after a switch off of the controller.
 
And here you find the video of the 2nd run:
[youtube]_VerPVzj18I[/youtube]
 
Another 50V for next weekend at ACAB (All cars and bikes)
 

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If your motor isn't overheating, run more than 35% field weakening. I haven't ran less than 50% on anything I've done in the last decade. It hurts nothing on your low speed torque, but gives a massive top end boost. More packs in series of course also gets the same things done, and gives you higher peak HP from more cells.
 
The crowed said there was a big lightning :bolt: on the right side of my motorcycle.
I lost 3 of my new battery packs from RacePower!
My 6 years old Turnigy Heavy Duty are all ok!
 

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Thanks a lot! Yea but I have already ordered additional 4 of them but I think I will not use them anymore cause 3 of 4 is a very bad result that it seems they can’t hold their printing of 65C.
Good old Turnigies!
I had to move the bike back by feet (500m) and collected some flowers :lol:
 

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The images of your hobby packs looks like it experienced an electrical arc discharge, but didn't experience cell thermal runaway.

That was a fortunate blessing to get one without the other.
 
I am wondering, the right one explode and the middle one will hit by the exploding. The left battery was in the other battery box, far away from the others!
Only the 3 new one will die!
Manufacturing defect?
 
Yes, I have my old 6S and 4S Turnigy Heavy Duty (5000mAh 60/120C), which are all ok and I add the new 6S RacePow (5200mAh, 65/130C) in series … on each side (two battery boxes).
Sorry, I didn’t record the cell voltages.
Afterwards I drove 2 other runs @ 400V DC without any problems.
 
Prepared the clip
[youtube]GzwQIXODKf4[/youtube]
 
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