Tandem Conversion with CYC Photon Mid-Drive

VTAllen

1 mW
Joined
Feb 6, 2023
Messages
12
Location
Richmond, Vermont
CYC Photon Mid-Drive Conversion of 1999 Santana Sovereign Tandem

I previously tried a Falco direct drive rear hub motor on this bike and found it completely inadequate for Vermont terrain. It just didn’t have the low end torque needed for the long, steep hills that are everywhere in Vermont. I needed a motor that could use the bike’s gears for climbing. I have had good results on my single bike with a TSDZ2, but I don’t think that motor would hold up to the demands of the tandem. Our tandem plus riders weight is over 400 lbs. I decided to try the Photon, which, among other things, has an internal temp sensor, so I will know if I am overheating it.

The bike: An aluminum frame road tandem with an Ultegra 3X9 drive train, left sided timing chain, v-brakes and drop bars, and bar end shifters. 73mm bottom bracket shells, BSA threading in rear and an eccentric in the front bottom bracket shell that is also BSA threaded.

Challenges unique to this build: The tandem requires a timing chain, usually on the left, and I could not find a left ISIS crank arm with a spider. Also, my wife has arthritis in her hips and knees, and even with the seat all the way down, can no longer use the stock 170mm crank arms. We had solved this by adding crank arm shorteners. I found a set of 145mm ISIS crank arms with a right side spider on ebay, and installed them swapping right and left, and putting the pedals in with generous blue thread locker. The pedals did not loosen in the one 19 mile ride, but she could not tolerate the 145mm, she needed the 135mm the shorteners gave her. So, I found a set of 170mm ISIS cranks with a right side spider and put them on, swapping right and left, and added the shorteners. This works for her, even though the Q is pretty extreme. The shorteners do not use the crank arm pedal threads, so the right/left does not matter.

General build solutions:

1. Battery placement: This went on the bottom tube (the tube between the two bottom brackets), which on a Santana is oval shaped. I put in 4 rivnuts and attached a Grin triple bob, then added three big zip ties because I don’t know how far to trust a rivnut in a thin wall aluminum tube. The battery cradle screws to the triple bob and feels solid.

2. Gearing: I had to give up my triple, which had a low gear of .667 (24t chainring to 36t cog). I wanted gearing for our gravel roads, which routinely have grades of 15% and worse. So, I went with the 38t chainring on the Photon, and put a Box Two-e 9 speed on the back, with a 12-50t range. That gives me a .76 low gear ration. It works. On steep hills in level one assist we can climb at 4-5 mph with a good pedal cadence. The display says we are contributing about 250 watts, and the motor only heated up to 126F/52C on a 75F day. With this gearing our pedal cadence tops out at about 20mph. This is fine for our local riding. If were go on a tour in the flatlands I might swap out for a 50t chainring.

3. Handlebars: The Shimano Dura Ace 9speed bar end shifters, in friction mode, only pull enough cable to traverse 8 of the Box Two cogs. The Box Two shifter won’t go on drop bars. I needed to change to upright bars anyway, due to neck issues, so I changed to a Nitto Albatross bar, and changed brake levers and all that stuff. The drum drag brake works off the bar end shift lever on the left. The Box Two shifter works OK, but it is really hard to push.

4. Chainlines: Timing Chain: The rear chainring for the timing chain, mounted on the motor spline, is 2cm outboard of the front timing chainring, mounted on the original Shimano octalink bottom bracket. I used narrow/wide chainrings because of this and so far have not had any trouble.

Drive chain chainline: By putting one of the spacers provided on the right side of the Photon install, the drive chainline is straight when in the 5th (middle) cog. I guess that is good as you can get with a 1X.

5. Control placement: Currently, these are all on the rear handlebars because that is where the wires reach, and my wife runs that stuff. It works like an old steamship, with the bridge calling down instructions to the engine room. I have extenders ordered for the wiring and hope to have that sorted soon.

Performance and range: Using Level One assist I think the 52v 14 amp hour battery will give us about a 30 mile range. With Level One assist and using the gear range for spinning, not speed, we can ride Vermont gravel without undue stress on old knees, and based on the motor temperature, I don’t think we are putting undue stress on the motor. More experience is needed.IMG_1666.jpgIMG_1667.jpgIMG_1666.jpgIMG_1667.jpgIMG_1644.jpgIMG_1651.jpgIMG_1652.jpgIMG_1656.jpgIMG_1658.jpgIMG_1657.jpg
 
Also, my wife has arthritis in her hips and knees, and even with the seat all the way down, can no longer use the stock 170mm crank arms. We had solved this by adding crank arm shorteners. I found a set of 145mm ISIS crank arms with a right side spider on ebay, and installed them swapping right and left, and putting the pedals in with generous blue thread locker. The pedals did not loosen in the one 19 mile ride, but she could not tolerate the 145mm, she needed the 135mm the shorteners gave her. So, I found a set of 170mm ISIS cranks with a right side spider and put them on, swapping right and left, and added the shorteners. This works for her, even though the Q is pretty extreme.
If you can do the work, I would recommend actually modifying the crank arms to directly mount the cranks. (it would also allow you to thread them the correct direction to not require threadlocker).

This will fix the Q factor, which will probably help with her joints (not just her hips, but knees, etc are affected by this, and already having problems with the joints can just be worse. :( )

If you can't do the work (or would rather not), then it's cheap enough to have it done here:
And there are other places that do this, as well as info on how to do it yourself (it will require some specialized tools (like taps) you probably don't have laying around)
 
If you can do the work, I would recommend actually modifying the crank arms to directly mount the cranks. (it would also allow you to thread them the correct direction to not require threadlocker).

This will fix the Q factor, which will probably help with her joints (not just her hips, but knees, etc are affected by this, and already having problems with the joints can just be worse. :( )

If you can't do the work (or would rather not), then it's cheap enough to have it done here:
And there are other places that do this, as well as info on how to do it yourself (it will require some specialized tools (like taps) you probably don't have laying around)
Thanks! I am looking into this.
 
If you can do the work, I would recommend actually modifying the crank arms to directly mount the cranks. (it would also allow you to thread them the correct direction to not require threadlocker).

This will fix the Q factor, which will probably help with her joints (not just her hips, but knees, etc are affected by this, and already having problems with the joints can just be worse. :( )

If you can't do the work (or would rather not), then it's cheap enough to have it done here:
And there are other places that do this, as well as info on how to do it yourself (it will require some specialized tools (like taps) you probably don't have laying around)
So, in brief, success!! Many thanks to amberwolf. I found a set of ISIS splined cranks on ebay at 165mm, and sent them to Mark Stonich at BikeSmith Design and Fabrication and he shortened them and drilled/tapped the threads, and sent them back. Reasonable price, quick turnaround, and good communication. He has my 100% endorsement. We have put about 250 miles on the conversion since, and happy stoker (happy wife), happy life. Again, many thanks to amberwolf for the help.
 

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Could I ask why clipless pedals on an e-bike...
On a tandem, if you ride "unclipped" it is easier to lose a pedal (you aren't the only one pedaling), and regaining it requires your partner stop pedaling; meanwhile the pedals are still going around whacking your feet.... There are tandem teams that ride unclipped, but being clipped in works better for us.

Also, we mostly are riding "pedal assist", i.e. not using a throttle. Again, this is our preference. That said, asking the Photon alone to power our 450 lbs rolling weight (tandem plus motor, batteries, bags, bottles, racks, and two not slender riders) is asking a lot. It will, but it heats up fast if we draw more than about 400 watts on a sustained basis.

Lastly, on my single bike (also Photon equipped), I find there are times that the ability to pull as well as push relieves knee pain (old worn out knees...). I have just bought some flat pedals with the little spikey things from Rivendell and am going to try them. I think they will be a winter item, making it easier to just wear insulated hiking boots in cold weather.

Sorry for the dealy in answering; I haven't logged in in a while.
 
If I were to convert my tandem, I'd install the Photon on the front bottom bracket. That way I could preserve the original gearing with the triple crankset (and you wouldn't need to buy the extension wiring). With the Photon via setup in the app you can reverse motor direction (allows you to mount it on the left). Then all you'd have to do is get a synch chain ring for the rear with the same number of teeth as the Photon chain ring.
 
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If I were to convert my tandem, I'd install the Photon on the front bottom bracket. That way I could preserve the original gearing with the triple crankset (and you wouldn't need to buy the extension wiring). With the Photon via setup in the app you can reverse motor direction (allows you to mount it on the left). Then all you'd have to do is get a synch chain ring for the rear with the same number of teeth as the Photon chain ring.
I don't think just reversing the direction of the motor would be enough to mount the photon on the left. There's also some clutches that would need to be flipped. Definitely the one between the cranks and the motor, otherwise you wouldn't be able to pedal. In theory it is still doable, though I can't speak to how difficult the teardown would be.
 
I don't think just reversing the direction of the motor would be enough to mount the photon on the left. There's also some clutches that would need to be flipped. Definitely the one between the cranks and the motor, otherwise you wouldn't be able to pedal. In theory it is still doable, though I can't speak to how difficult the teardown would be.
Maybe so. I remember setting up my photon and there was an option to reverse the motor. More research needed I suppose.
 
So, in brief, success!! Many thanks to amberwolf. I found a set of ISIS splined cranks on ebay at 165mm, and sent them to Mark Stonich at BikeSmith Design and Fabrication and he shortened them and drilled/tapped the threads, and sent them back. Reasonable price, quick turnaround, and good communication. He has my 100% endorsement. We have put about 250 miles on the conversion since, and happy stoker (happy wife), happy life. Again, many thanks to amberwolf for the help.
Where did you find the Sinz Spider cranks? I found a set but say they are BMX, but look like the ones on your pictures. Ids tgis correct? And were you able to use the timing chain ring that was on your tandem originally or did you need to get a bmx chain ring?4
 
Where did you find the Sinz Spider cranks? I found a set but say they are BMX, but look like the ones on your pictures. Ids tgis correct? And were you able to use the timing chain ring that was on your tandem originally or did you need to get a bmx chain ring?4
Sorry for the delay; I should look at this more often. I got the Sinz cranks on ebay. I think they were originally made for BMX'ers, but what matters is that they have ISIS splines and one side has a spider. I did have Bikesmith reverse the threads; the cranks were cut down enough that the original pedal holes were gone; he did the new pedal holes left hand thread on the one with the spider, and right hand thread on the other. It works a treat.
I did buy new chain rings; the BCD on the SINZ was different from whatever was on there before. Because the timing chainline was not straight, I also used wide/narrow chain rings both front and back. To the best of my knowledge, the wide/narrow business is something that came about to try to keep chains from coming off of 1X drive trains. Anyway, it has worked fine for the tandem timing chain; it has never "jumped". I use 8 speed chains for timing chains. Just always have. I don't know if it makes any difference.
 
I’d like to thank VTAllen for posting his tandem e-bike conversion process. That encouraged me to forgo buying an e-tandem ($$$$) and convert my trusty steel stead Co-Motion Speedster into a pedal assist bike using the Photon kit. We are in our 70’s and still very fit but the climbs in New England were getting harder to enjoy. Now we have rediscovered the joy of riding together as we did 25 years ago. I thought it might be helpful to others to document the conversion so I recently posted the build on YouTube.
 
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