The BEST and FIRST Qulbix Raptor mid-drive build!

[LightningRods]

I replaced the image links as attachments. You should see everything now.

 

[SlowCo]

Maybe it's just me, but I'm not seeing the pics.

I’m seeing them. Not sure what could be causing the issue.

Not showing for me either.

 

[john61ct]

Showing perfectly here, Android Tapatalk and Chrome

 

[Tomblarom]

@LightningRods try to reupload them.. I use Imgur. They are displayed like this:

They work if you manually open each one in a new tab.

 

[john61ct]

Apparently an issue at backusstudio.com

 

[LightningRods]

I replaced the image links as attachments. You should see everything now.

 

[Compoundbike]

i have a special hub for this if anyone is interested from EU. (Wanted to do the project but Q76 is gone)

 

[LightningRods]

The first Qulbix swingarm drive with my new modular alloy plates is completed. This particular drive is for Grendel Khan and takes full advantage of the new adjustability. RHD with an oversized XL motor. Grendel stepped up and bought a really nice hub for his bike. It’s a Woody’s Wheel Works billet hub meant as a SurRon upgrade. I designed a 219 kart chain adapter and got the spacing dialled in for the left side disc brake rotor. A Magura MT5 dual piston caliper completes the rear brake setup.

It was kind of impractical to redesign a drive that was already working well and that I still have in stock. I can’t resist an opportunity to make things better. This is definitely a big step up for this drive. I’m going to talk to my friends at Qulbix and see if I can’t put a complete frame package together.

 

[tylerwatts]

Only issue is the caliper does not reposition with the axle adjustment, was there no way round this?

cheers
Tyler

 

[LightningRods]

A solid mount is safe and won’t slip under use. I’m open to suggestions for an adjustable caliper mount.

 

[LightningRods]

I have an idea…

 

[LightningRods]

One of my customers running his Qulbix swingarm drive on a bike stand.

https://www.facebook.com/100000998975988/posts/4760799683963284/?d=n

 

[tylerwatts]

A solid mount is safe and won’t slip under use. I’m open to suggestions for an adjustable caliper mount.

Pic 6 above, rear top view, the space between disc and swingarm where the caliper bracket mounts to the swingarm, that looks like a sleeve spacer on the axle. So I would simply make the caliper mount plate pivot on the axle where that space is (extent plate down to over the axle with a through hole) and slot the bracket over one of those bolt holes with a socket cap screw fastened from the inside of the swingarm to act as an anti-rotation pin, probably the higher of the 2 holes for less stress. Ideally even, I'd make the caliper mount plate fit over that spacer and then weld the plate to the spacer for a much stronger bracket torsionally, bit more complex but for the quality, performance and reliability of your systems it seems more appropriate to me.

One thing to not skimp on is sturdy reliable brakes! I'm not saying you have, the solid mount will surely be powerful and reliable but potentially compromised as tension is adjusted. Saying that, I don't have experience in cycle part wear rates, if the brake pads only last 1000miles and need replacement it's probably a mute point... I'm more biased towards motorcycle economies of scale so I apologise if that was inappropriate.

But a great looking product and your customer's video is impressive and a little bit scary to think of doing on cycle components to me.

cheers
Tyler

 

[LightningRods]

No this is certainly not an issue of safety. What I did NOT want was a complicated system that could come apart and disable the rear brake or far worse jam the wheel. I trusted the Qulbix basic design and made it thicker and from better material.

The pads are properly positioned when the chain is new. The chain should be replaced after either 1% or 2% stretch, depending on how cautious you are. With this drive’s center to center distance of 15.76” we’re talking about wheel movement of .157” at 1% and .315” at 2%. 1% stretch is going to have no effect on the brakes and at 2% the top left corner of the pad might start to move off of the rotor. So a slight loss of braking area. Someone who was really concerned about this effect could swap out the rear sprocket for one with a couple more teeth and move the wheel right back where it was.

Another simple way to reposition the pads as the drive chain stretches is to lower the caliper straight down. This could be done by having the main billet mount shorter by the amount desired for correct pad placement when the chain has stretched. A thin spacer would be used when the chain is new. This method is simple, inexpensive and can’t slip or come apart.

 

[sn0wchyld]

Id have thought frame modification would be a diddle... basically just weld in a new plate on the underside of the swing arm, to match your 'top plate' bolt positions...

 

[tylerwatts]

No this is certainly not an issue of safety. What I did NOT want was a complicated system that could come apart and disable the rear brake or far worse jam the wheel. I trusted the Qulbix basic design and made it thicker and from better material.

The pads are properly positioned when the chain is new. The chain should be replaced after either 1% or 2% stretch, depending on how cautious you are. With this drive’s center to center distance of 15.76” we’re talking about wheel movement of .157” at 1% and .315” at 2%. 1% stretch is going to have no effect on the brakes and at 2% the top left corner of the pad might start to move off of the rotor. So a slight loss of braking area. Someone who was really concerned about this effect could swap out the rear sprocket for one with a couple more teeth and move the wheel right back where it was.

Another simple way to reposition the pads as the drive chain stretches is to lower the caliper straight down. This could be done by having the main billet mount shorter by the amount desired for correct pad placement when the chain has stretched. A thin spacer would be used when the chain is new. This method is simple, inexpensive and can’t slip or come apart.

That sounds like sound logic sir and I didn't mean to disapprove the design you have, it looks very robust and reliable. I was thinking aloud. KISS right [emoji6]

cheers
Tyler

 

[john61ct]

@LightningRods

Sorry if OT

Have you looked at the Far Driver units?

If these specs are honest

http://www.cnqsmotor.com/en/article_read/New%20Arrival%20SiAECOSYS%20Programmable%20SIAYQ72180%2072V%20180A%20Controller%20for%20High%20Power%20Electric%20Scooter%20Bike/943.html

Would it get good torque at low speeds from your XL? Or even XXL? Here's my use case

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1699341#p1699341

Ideally I'd like heat gain to act as the current limiting factor.

Other controllers you think may be more suitable? I'd love Sevcon if configuration help like this were available

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1705858#p1705858

Or ASI BAC?

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=105671

 

[LightningRods]

Hi John,
I'm not entirely sure what your goals are for your cargo bike build. Forgive me for not taking the time to read the thread. My experience with the sine wave and FOC controllers has been a hugely improved throttle curve, great maximum power and screaming high end performance thanks to field weakening. Most of my experience has been with ASI, some with the PowerVelocity NextGen which is presently sidelined thanks to the chip shortage. The ASI controllers are notoriously nightmares to programs. I've had to rely on more knowledgeable outside programmers/tuners which has introduced me to an entirely new set of problems. If your goal is low end torque I don't think you're going to see an increase with FOC. The ones that I tried were 'soft start' feeling with less of the kick in the butt at startup that the cheap Chinese square waves give you. My motors do require about 8:1 reduction to match motor rpm to wheel rpm. If you don't want to run reduction gearing you're pretty much stuck with a low rpm hub motor.