The first and BEST Qulbix Raptor mid-drive build!

I can believe the drive was too big. I was more asking your opinion on the height of the battery compartment compared to the narrow section where your sprockets are attached. Would that step be tall enough for a chain to run through? Is there important stuff behind there like bracing that would need to be cut out?

Wasn't trying to critique your approach to the build, more trying to take advantage of all the measuring work you probably did before taking a grinder to that new frame.

I've been eyeballing the frame options on the market thinking of a someday build. Ideally I would like to mount my 5"dia 70kv motor inside an ebike specific frame (FUTR beta,vector,raptor) and use the swingarm pivot as the shaft for first reduction stage. I've watched with much admiration as you engineer around the chain growth issues on your suspension builds. The thought of dropping and tangling a non-freewheeling LH drive chain scares the hell out of me so using the swingarm pivot to eliminate that would be ideal.
 
There is enough space to run the chain through the box with the idler wheel inside the box. I did it this way for a number if reasons. The main reason is to assure the chain is accessible.

Also, I wanted to make sure the battery packs were all in the same compartment. If I mounted the drive unit inside the box, the pack would be split between the rest of the space in the box and a second compartment under the frame.

So, I ordered 3 more pack. That completes my 80ah 12s pack. 3.5kwh! :mrgreen:

Matt
 
Will you be able to charge them all in one port with a single charger Matt? I've been trying to educate myself a bit on batteries lately but there is so much to learn, volts, amps, watts, having them in series or parallel? Lion, Li-poly, I need to sit down and have a conversation with a battery guru over a cigar for 45 minutes just to get my mind wrapped around this properly. It would be to much to pull them all out to charge them right? Thank You!
 
Daim11 said:
Will you be able to charge them all in one port with a single charger Matt? I've been trying to educate myself a bit on batteries lately but there is so much to learn, volts, amps, watts, having them in series or parallel? Lion, Li-poly, I need to sit down and have a conversation with a battery guru over a cigar for 45 minutes just to get my mind wrapped around this properly. It would be to much to pull them all out to charge them right? Thank You!
Click to expand...

I have my own charger made from two 1,200 watt Meanwell power supplies in parallel. So, I will be bulk charging the entire pack at 2,400 watts.

Matt
 
DanGT86 said:
I can believe the drive was too big. I was more asking your opinion on the height of the battery compartment compared to the narrow section where your sprockets are attached. Would that step be tall enough for a chain to run through? Is there important stuff behind there like bracing that would need to be cut out?

Wasn't trying to critique your approach to the build, more trying to take advantage of all the measuring work you probably did before taking a grinder to that new frame.

I've been eyeballing the frame options on the market thinking of a someday build. Ideally I would like to mount my 5"dia 70kv motor inside an ebike specific frame (FUTR beta,vector,raptor) and use the swingarm pivot as the shaft for first reduction stage. I've watched with much admiration as you engineer around the chain growth issues on your suspension builds. The thought of dropping and tangling a non-freewheeling LH drive chain scares the hell out of me so using the swingarm pivot to eliminate that would be ideal.
Click to expand...

This may not be totally relevant, but I was asked by another member to get some rough measurements of a Cyclone 3000w inside of a Raptor. Although this is a 76R not a 140. Also it would have the drive chain to the crankset (right side), unlike Matt's left side direct drive.
 
recumpence said:
DanGT86 said:
Great work so far. Good idea loading it up with tons of battery. Its amazing how quickly it goes when you have a lot of power on tap. Regarding the chainline, would it have been possible to put a motor/drive inside the frame and run the chain through a small slot cut in the back of the battery compartment? What kind of bracing is back there?
Click to expand...
The drive would have taken up 90% of the interior capacity of the frame. I checked.
Click to expand...

And there would be no air flow around the motors to keep them cool.
 
recumpence said:
Daim11 said:
Will you be able to charge them all in one port with a single charger Matt? I've been trying to educate myself a bit on batteries lately but there is so much to learn, volts, amps, watts, having them in series or parallel? Lion, Li-poly, I need to sit down and have a conversation with a battery guru over a cigar for 45 minutes just to get my mind wrapped around this properly. It would be to much to pull them all out to charge them right? Thank You!
Click to expand...

I have my own charger made from two 1,200 watt Meanwell power supplies in parallel. So, I will be bulk charging the entire pack at 2,400 watts.

Matt
Click to expand...

I'm curious...I use meanwells as well, but I didn't know they did hiigh voltage power supplies. So...84 volts in a single meanwell??? I want some of those! I run 4 24 volt meanwell power supplies set to 20+ volts to get me to 84 volts. They are in series and can deliver 30 amps each or 2500 watts. It works quite well, but I have to run a dedicated AC circuit since everything in my house is rated for 15 amps. I pop the breaker all the time if I don't limit current.

What is your power supply output voltage? I just looked at jameco.com and the highest voltage meanwell they have is 54 volts at 2 amps so that can't be what you are running.
 
ElectricGod said:
recumpence said:
Daim11 said:
Will you be able to charge them all in one port with a single charger Matt? I've been trying to educate myself a bit on batteries lately but there is so much to learn, volts, amps, watts, having them in series or parallel? Lion, Li-poly, I need to sit down and have a conversation with a battery guru over a cigar for 45 minutes just to get my mind wrapped around this properly. It would be to much to pull them all out to charge them right? Thank You!
Click to expand...

I have my own charger made from two 1,200 watt Meanwell power supplies in parallel. So, I will be bulk charging the entire pack at 2,400 watts.

Matt
Click to expand...

I'm curious...I use meanwells as well, but I didn't know they did hiigh voltage power supplies. So...84 volts in a single meanwell??? I want some of those! I run 4 24 volt meanwell power supplies set to 20+ volts to get me to 84 volts. They are in series and can deliver 30 amps each or 2500 watts. It works quite well, but I have to run a dedicated AC circuit since everything in my house is rated for 15 amps. I pop the breaker all the time if I don't limit current.

What is your power supply output voltage? I just looked at jameco.com and the highest voltage meanwell they have is 54 volts at 2 amps so that can't be what you are running.
Click to expand...

They are 50 volt, 24 amp power supplies. I have them turned down to 49.5 volts for safety margin.

These power supplies are phenomenal. They are the best charging solution I have ever found. They are 25% the size of a Zivan and 50% more powerful.

I use a Watts Up meter as a charge display. It gives me voltage, amperage, wattage, and accumulated WH.

Matt
 
My USD8 fork arrived in gold color, not black as I ordered. So, I am returning it. Instead, I found a GREAT deal on a new Manitou Dorado fork. So, I have that fork coming. :mrgreen:

Matt
 
hi just to give you head's up Manitou Dorado fork. are good feeling fork, but , try find a older hex axle, the new ones are to weak blend , for ebikes,

you may not used real down hill tracks, it may work you on flat road, don't brake hard all i can say or drop the bike, it be costly


carts n USD8 fork , sucked Manitou Dorado fork so much better :D .

love your speed holes :)
 
aCeMadMod said:
hi just to give you head's up Manitou Dorado fork. are good feeling fork, but , try find a older hex axle, the new ones are to weak blend , for ebikes,

you may not used real down hill tracks, it may work you on flat road, don't brake hard all i can say or drop the bike, it be costly


carts n USD8 fork , sucked Manitou Dorado fork so much better :D .

love your speed holes :)
Click to expand...

They are hex axle
 
I have done alot of work. Much of it is not visible. But, here are a few pictures.

Today I fabricated the tensioner wheel, arm, and welded frame tabs. I also welded the carbon idler wheel brace/chain guard tabs to the frame. Beyond that, I fabricated the carbon fiber side panels. This frame will have $400 of carbon fiber. :shock:

So, question for you guys;

The frame will be powder-coated yellow. Originally I was only going to make the frame yellow with the swingarm and all bolt-ons black. However, I am considering making the swingarm yellow as well. What are your thoughts? Black swing arm, or yellow?

Oh, the frame is nearly ready to go in for powder-coating.

As a side note; the three extra holes in the carbon side panel are locating holes for another item. They look like an error. However, they are there for a specific reason.

Matt
 

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My 2 inch wide rear rim and spokes just arrived. I am picking up the rear axel tomorrow. Things are coming together. I hope to have all fabrication finished within a week so I can get the parts off to the powder-coater.

Matt
 
Interesting situation with my wheels;

This bike will have 24 inch wheels. This is done for several reasons;

#1 Smaller wheels are stronger.
#2 Smaller wheels provide more component clearance.
#3 Smaller wheels slightly lower the chassis without reducing suspension travel.
#4 I prefer the look of smaller wheels. :mrgreen:

The front wheel is a 1 inch wide double wall, downhill Sun Ringle rim laced to a 20mm through axel hub. The rear wheel is the interesting one. To start with, the swing arm is designed for 150mm spacing to install a hub motor. A while back, I accidentally ordered a Kore 36 hole 150mm wide rear hub for a different project. I was too lazy to return it. So, as luck would have it, I have a perfect hub for this frame. :mrgreen: However, I need a wide rear rim. Hmm, I looked for a Large Marge 24 inch rim and could not find any. I looked, and looked, to no avail. So, I remembered my Motoped used a 24 inch rear rim that was 2 inches wide. Perfect! I contacted Motoped and ordered a conversion front wheel. This is their 2 inch wide, 24 inch rear rim laced with 13 gauge spokes to a 20mm through axel front hub. It turns out the flange diameter on their hub is the same as my Kore hub. So, I unlaced the Motoped wheel and relaced it with my 150mm wide Kore hub to complete my custom rear wheel. That makes this wheel a 150mm hub, 24inch double wall, spoke, 13 guage rear wheel. Very strange wheel, indeed! However, it is massively strong and wide enough to give me the wide tire contact patch I am looking for.

Other than that, parts continue rolling in for this build.

I will post more updates and pictures as I have them.

Matt
 
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