TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

[mbrusa]

Thanks Mbrusa for your info.

Got the same one. Just a few serial numbers higher.
My flash failed.
I hope it's my USB TTL board.
Used this one here: https://www.ebay.de/itm/353476220926
And put it on TTL.
I was able to connect, but TX and RX were working
The upload was not initiated. Despite pressing the power button several times.
Have now ordered this USB TTL board:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32288431622.html
I hope this works. will report.
Do you use the same configuration as described here for flashing?
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Flash-the-firmware-on-860C-850C-using-bootloader
However, I had used a laboratory power supply with 29V.

Yes, I used the same configuration.

 

[erlano1977]

Thanks Mbrusa for your info.

Got the same one. Just a few serial numbers higher.
My flash failed.
I hope it's my USB TTL board.
Used this one here: https://www.ebay.de/itm/353476220926
And put it on TTL.
I was able to connect, but TX and RX were working
The upload was not initiated. Despite pressing the power button several times.
Have now ordered this USB TTL board:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32288431622.html
I hope this works. will report.
Do you use the same configuration as described here for flashing?
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Flash-the-firmware-on-860C-850C-using-bootloader
However, I had used a laboratory power supply with 29V.

I did it now but made the P860C
To flash with these parts:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/353476220926
https://www.ebay.de/itm/255283221963

Thanks again to Mbrusa.

 

[f1nch87]

Thx Mbrusa.
After some Months not cycling and the email of your new Release i decided to build my wifes Bike with the motor i already ordered last year.

Directly swapped to brass gear and flashed the new C4 on the SW102 and the Motor.
As first impression very loud and maybe no good noises.
I dunno if i messed up some settings. Have to inread first in the config again. Just changed motor and battery stuff.
Maybe the brass gear also i dunno.
I first see if i messed up any config.

I would love it if you would do a wiki for your version for idiots like me to what to do after mechanical install and flashing.

Its hard to always switch between wiki's.
But thx anyway i invest time my own and try to find and fix the problem.

On my own bike i have and older version of yours except sw102 issues flawlessly running for months.

 

[Anikea]

Directly swapped to brass gear and flashed the new C4 on the SW102 and the Motor.
As first impression very loud and maybe no good noises.

I always find it very difficult to judge whether a version is quieter or louder, as it varies greatly with the cadence and the load and is also different from engine to engine. I myself have never installed a brass gear, but I have read that it should be much louder, especially if it is brand new. A comparison of your old motor with old firmware with a new one with new firmware and new Brass Gear is therefore not useful I think.

 

[f1nch87]

Yea i thaught that it is louder. But it is really loud. Way to much for my thinking.
If the configs not change anything and then i switch back to the nylon gear. If that helps i just swap out the nylon gears when they worn out.

 

[jeff.page.rides]

Hi Jeff, if the sensor is not connected, the motor will not work.
From that error "e 8"

The point I was trying to make is that the error shows up when powering on with the sensor plugged in or not.
On a normal system when the sensor is unplugged, the error doesn't come on until you have moved several yards.
I was hoping there was an easier fix than changing the controller.
Thanks, Jeff

 

[jeff.page.rides]

Yea i thaught that it is louder. But it is really loud. Way to much for my thinking.
If the configs not change anything and then i switch back to the nylon gear. If that helps i just swap out the nylon gears when they worn out.

I have experience with a lot of different systems. And most are not too noisy, but I have also had a couple of systems that are noisy to very noisy and a few that are quiet. One system on a friend's bike was noisy from the start and after more than a year of riding the blue gear broke, and he installed a brass gear. That was a year ago and you can hear him coming, it is load.

Just think how great it would be if their quality control was much better, and they didn't overheat so easily!

 

[mbrusa]

The point I was trying to make is that the error shows up when powering on with the sensor plugged in or not.
On a normal system when the sensor is unplugged, the error doesn't come on until you have moved several yards.
I was hoping there was an easier fix than changing the controller.
Thanks, Jeff

Hi Jeff
"e 8 Speed Fault" immediately upon power up without pedaling?
There is no logical explanation.
It should appear after 12 seconds of pedaling.
With "Assist with error" set to "yes", does the bike work?

 

[jeff.page.rides]

The point I was trying to make is that the error shows up when powering on with the sensor plugged in or not.
On a normal system when the sensor is unplugged, the error doesn't come on until you have moved several yards.
I was hoping there was an easier fix than changing the controller.
Thanks, Jeff

Hi Jeff
"e 8 Speed Fault" immediately upon power up without pedaling?
There is no logical explanation.
It should appear after 12 seconds of pedaling.
With "Assist with error" set to "yes", does the bike work?

No the bike doesn't work.

 

[69pjc69]

I've had the same a problem "E8" happen after I power on. Has happened a couple of times now after flashing. The issue in my case was I had bent one of the tiny pins inside the motor cable when plugging the speed sensor back in and was shorting on another. Should be five tiny pins, if one is bent straighten it carefully with a sewing needle. Be carefull as they are very easy to snap.
A good indicator is you should hear a pop when you push the plugs together. No pop means bent pins.

 

[jeff.page.rides]

I've had the same a problem "E8" happen after I power on. Has happened a couple of times now after flashing. The issue in my case was I had bent one of the tiny pins inside the motor cable when plugging the speed sensor back in and was shorting on another. Should be five tiny pins, if one is bent straighten it carefully with a sewing needle. Be carefull as they are very easy to snap.
A good indicator is you should hear a pop when you push the plugs together. No pop means bent pins.

Thanks, I will have them look to see if they have a bent pin?

 

[labzoli]

Hi,

I programed my tsdz2 several times, it worked every time correctly now suddenly I get every time this error report:
>>> Loading file data.ihx in DATA MEMORY image in computer
<<< Loading file succeeds

Hit 'Esc' key to abort during communication.

>>> Programming PROGRAM MEMORY
(API) ERROR : Error on Option Bytes (complementary bytes). Reprogram Option Bytes of device
<<< Programming PROGRAM MEMORY fails
Press any key to continue . . .

Can you pls advise how to troubleshoot?
I tried the 1c.1 version as well but the result was the same as with 1c.2
Thanks
Zoli

 

[labzoli]

In the meantime I solved the problem but I don't delete my post. Probably it helps for others as well.
I tried to load a saved working version, but no success.
The ultimate solution was to load the factory default program with the ST visual programmer.
After that I manged to load the OSF again.
I could reproduce the problem, if the torque assistance value is to high (400-500), the problem appears.
Probably a value will overflow in case of particular combination of certain torque parameters.
All the best.
Zoli

Hi,

I programed my tsdz2 several times, it worked every time correctly now suddenly I get every time this error report:
>>> Loading file data.ihx in DATA MEMORY image in computer
<<< Loading file succeeds

Hit 'Esc' key to abort during communication.

>>> Programming PROGRAM MEMORY
(API) ERROR : Error on Option Bytes (complementary bytes). Reprogram Option Bytes of device
<<< Programming PROGRAM MEMORY fails
Press any key to continue . . .

Can you pls advise how to troubleshoot?
I tried the 1c.1 version as well but the result was the same as with 1c.2
Thanks
Zoli

 

[Elinx]

...
I tried to load a saved working version, but no success.
The ultimate solution was to load the factory default program with the ST visual programmer.
After that I manged to load the OSF again...

imho the difference between these two is flashing of the optionbyte too with the factory defaults.
With flashing of OSF the Optionbyte will not be flashed and as you can see there was an error with the Optionbyte.
Why the Optionbyte was corrupted I don't know, but imho in that case flashing the Optionbyte file before OSF should work too.

 

[Matze_Senpai]

hello everyone, i currently am having some issues with my tsdz2, which im not sure if its the software or battery problem.
i installed the osf like a month ago on a new motor and got a new battery (basically new build)
so everything works fine until the battery hits around 30% (according to Display stats) then the motor goes off. when i turned it on again it said like 29% battery but still cuts off 1minute later. now after charging battery again this still happens this time( but lower at around 23%)
battery is 52v 14.5ah Panasonic 2900mah
i have only loaded battery around 3 times until now
so could this be a problem with battery, or osf (or does this happen when battery is new) ?
i also set battery cut off at 40v in configurator
i hope someone has an answer (i hope the battery is not damaged!)

 

[amberwolf]

If the entire power turns off, it's probably the battery's BMS shutting down to protect it from overdischarge, likely to due to unbalanced cells.

If the power stays on, but the system simply won't engage the motor, that's probably the controller itself shutting off due to it's LVC setting.

 

[andyb]

Thanks Mbrusa for your info.

Got the same one. Just a few serial numbers higher.
My flash failed.
I hope it's my USB TTL board.
Used this one here: https://www.ebay.de/itm/353476220926
And put it on TTL.
I was able to connect, but TX and RX were working
The upload was not initiated. Despite pressing the power button several times.
Have now ordered this USB TTL board:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32288431622.html
I hope this works. will report.
Do you use the same configuration as described here for flashing?
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Flash-the-firmware-on-860C-850C-using-bootloader
However, I had used a laboratory power supply with 29V.

I did it now but made the P860C
To flash with these parts:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/353476220926
https://www.ebay.de/itm/255283221963

Thanks again to Mbrusa.

Hi Erlano, are you saying that the P860C works? My old 860C died so I'm after a new one (as cheap as possible), I have previously flashed using the set up with the USBUART not a USB TTL board, would this still work.
So many questions, I appreciate you might not have the answers but it's great that you posted about it to help people like me get things sorted.

Thanks.

Andy.

 

[erlano1977]

Thanks Mbrusa for your info.

Got the same one. Just a few serial numbers higher.
My flash failed.
I hope it's my USB TTL board.
Used this one here: https://www.ebay.de/itm/353476220926
And put it on TTL.
I was able to connect, but TX and RX were working
The upload was not initiated. Despite pressing the power button several times.
Have now ordered this USB TTL board:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32288431622.html
I hope this works. will report.
Do you use the same configuration as described here for flashing?
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Flash-the-firmware-on-860C-850C-using-bootloader
However, I had used a laboratory power supply with 29V.

I did it now but made the P860C
To flash with these parts:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/353476220926
https://www.ebay.de/itm/255283221963

Thanks again to Mbrusa.

Hi Erlano, are you saying that the P860C works? My old 860C died so I'm after a new one (as cheap as possible), I have previously flashed using the set up with the USBUART not a USB TTL board, would this still work.
So many questions, I appreciate you might not have the answers but it's great that you posted about it to help people like me get things sorted.

Thanks.

Andy.

Hello andyb,
Yes the P860C works fantastic.
Been driving it for 1 week now,with this firmware:
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-860C/releases/tag/v20.1C.4-860C

To flash with the parts I linked, or
It is best to follow the Github instructions:

https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Flash-the-firmware-on-860C-850C-using-bootloader

and this one:https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/860c-tsdz2-open-source-firmware-bootloader-update-tutorial

Can you tell us what caused your 860C to die?
Maybe we can learn from that.



Thanks again to Mbrusa and everyone who contributed to this.

 

[dameri]

Thanks Mbrusa for your info.

Got the same one. Just a few serial numbers higher.
My flash failed.
I hope it's my USB TTL board.
Used this one here: https://www.ebay.de/itm/353476220926
And put it on TTL.
I was able to connect, but TX and RX were working
The upload was not initiated. Despite pressing the power button several times.
Have now ordered this USB TTL board:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32288431622.html
I hope this works. will report.
Do you use the same configuration as described here for flashing?
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Flash-the-firmware-on-860C-850C-using-bootloader
However, I had used a laboratory power supply with 29V.

I did it now but made the P860C
To flash with these parts:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/353476220926
https://www.ebay.de/itm/255283221963

Thanks again to Mbrusa.

Hi Erlano, are you saying that the P860C works? My old 860C died so I'm after a new one (as cheap as possible), I have previously flashed using the set up with the USBUART not a USB TTL board, would this still work.
So many questions, I appreciate you might not have the answers but it's great that you posted about it to help people like me get things sorted.

Thanks.

Andy.

Hello Andy,
Yes the P860C works fantastic.
Been driving it for 1 week now,with this firmware:
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-860C/releases/tag/v20.1C.4-860C

To flash with the parts I linked, or
It is best to follow the Github instructions:

https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Flash-the-firmware-on-860C-850C-using-bootloader

and this one:https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/860c-tsdz2-open-source-firmware-bootloader-update-tutorial

Can you tell us what caused your 860C to die?
Maybe we can learn from that.


Thanks again to Mbrusa and everyone who contributed to this.

860C can die without reason. I have had two displays which did not start one morning at all. I'm not only one. I'm waiting for third display to come. It's much more better than 850 display in the sun. When I go to longer ride I will take spare display with me to avoid long walking trip.

 

[erlano1977]

Hello dameri,
can you tell us which software version your 860C did not start with.
And how long it ran with this version before it wouldn't start anymore.

 

[andyb]

Hello and thanks for the reply, I was running Open source firmware TSDZ2-v20.1C.3-860C-NEW, all was going well, I swapped out the motor and display to a new bike and I think I messed up the new cables.
It would power on show the menus but not flash or interact with the motor.
Thanks again.
Andy.

 

[dameri]

Hello dameri,
can you tell us which software version your 860C did not start with.
And how long it ran with this version before it wouldn't start anymore.

In my first 860C display I had casainhos version v0.8.0 and in motor v0.57. It was may 2020. I updated newer versions when casainho released them. I think mbrusa released his first version in mars 2021 and I started to use it. 860C was broken on the end of april 2021. I got second 860C display on may 2021 and it was broken on april 2022. I have also updated newer versions when mbrusa have released those. I will get new 860C next week.

I don’t think it’s not to blame osf when 860C display dies. Maby I just have bad luck with displays or those are not very good made.

I drive about 10000 km:s per year.

 

[shazaam]

Has anyone solved the problem with the new 850c 2021 display? after uploading the software, the display does not turn on. apparently there are other parts inside.

Hi I have the same problem. My version is 850C TFTAPMIEV2.31860 JL02.0 TS 202107130170

I disassembled it, and it look like old version inside. So may be is posible to fix version for 850c?

IMG_20220403_105508_075.jpg
IMG_0451.JPG

Better photo https://photos.app.goo.gl/zqut2qUZxZRq2NLT7

I also tried to uploading many old versions, but without success.

I had the same issue with the 850C model year 2021 and were able to solve it. I thought I'd share my path of pain if anyone is interested, since more people seem to have the problem.

My mistakes were:
- flashing with APT-burn-tools cashiano and MBrusa OSF onto the 850C MY 2021 - Display wouldn't turn on anymore
- trying different version of OSF which I found
- I may have flashed a non-bootloader version by accident, don't know if that made it worse
- nothing brought the display back to life

Afterwards I wrote to Apt and stated them my problem incl. display info written on the back. They sent me a *.bin of the original FW which i tried flashing with Apt-burn-tools. Flashing stopped at 99% and didn't finish, simply interrupted. Afterwards I couldn't start a new update of the FW, the display simply wasn't responing by pressing the on button to initiate the flash.

After loosing hope and thinking i bricked the display completley, I thought I'd give it another shot by the SWD flash with the ST LinkV2 clone (see github wiki), hoping i could establish a connection to the Microcontroller and see if it's responding.

And it worked!!! Brought the display back to life with the original firmware.

If anyone needs the original FW write me a PM, but the firmwares vary depending on model year / month.

 

[erlano1977]

10,000 km is a lot, at least for me, some people can't even do that in their car.
But the display shouldn't die because of it.
Thank you everyone for sharing your experience.

 

[KingJL]

10,000 km is a lot, at least for me, some people can't even do that in their car.
But the display shouldn't die because of it.

I am loath to get into this discussion, but I suspect with the number of instances of this display failure with the OSF firmware might have something to do with "endurance" of the flash memory. It will probably be tied to the method and frequency of operating parameter storage. I have experienced this issue with other applications and micros when using flash memory for parameter storage. The flash "endurance" can usually be found in the micro controllers data sheet.