Vector Light Commuter Build

Here are a ton of very redundant photos of the pack revival over the coarse of 2 months. after all of this I found another cell in the pack at 3.90 while the rest were above 4.1 and I tried to hook the BMS up again to charge the low cell...the bms wouldn't even do it so I decided to charge it on my own and remove this shitty bms for now, this will give me the full 20a my controller demands putting a bit more strain on the cells. We will see how they do

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Also got around to putting another Maxxis holy roller 26" on the back of the bike so people would stop asking me why my rear tire was smaller than my front tire! I was just too lazy to take the Chinese tire that came with the kit off

either way it makes the bike a bit faster since its diameter is greater

Took the bike out for a ride and put a few miles on it, so far so good. Lets see how fast they get out of balance
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Yesterday I was able to get two good 15 mile commutes in on the 13s battery pack, average speed of 24mph. The first run I sort of babied it on hills and the second trip I got a little more on the throttle. So far so good

charged between trips with the satiator and it said it put 7.4ah into the pack before the second trip back to the city
 
ScooterMan101 said:
What is the amount of travel that you have on that Front Suspension Fork ?

What is the travel of the rear ? eye to eye measurement on rear shock ?

i have that same fork. 150mm travel.

i think i read in the 1st page that it's a 220mm DNM rear shock

btw skeetab i just cracked another aluminum MTB frame. i think i'm done w/ aluminum frames :lol: and i wanna sell my bbs02 and GNG mid-drives, then get a vector light
 
Overclocker said:
ScooterMan101 said:
What is the amount of travel that you have on that Front Suspension Fork ?

What is the travel of the rear ? eye to eye measurement on rear shock ?

i have that same fork. 150mm travel.

i think i read in the 1st page that it's a 220mm DNM rear shock

btw skeetab i just cracked another aluminum MTB frame. i think i'm done w/ aluminum frames :lol: and i wanna sell my bbs02 and GNG mid-drives, then get a vector light

WOW another cracked frame! I have dreams on making the Vector mid drive similar to the LMX hybrid with a full gear cassette on the other side, gives much better throttle control than a BBS02 when not powered thru the pedal drive train

The Vector is a great frame for the money I don't have many complaints just don't cheap out on suspension and get used to cheap Chinese steel rusting eventually
 
I think I want to get a cruise control for this bike, since I have the auto regen on throttle release I need something to keep the throttle held other than my hand/wrist since it gets old fast on long trips

I have never had one on a bike before
 
skeetab5780 said:
WOW another cracked frame! I have dreams on making the Vector mid drive similar to the LMX hybrid with a full gear cassette on the other side, gives much better throttle control than a BBS02 when not powered thru the pedal drive train

The Vector is a great frame for the money I don't have many complaints just don't cheap out on suspension and get used to cheap Chinese steel rusting eventually


yeah 2 different frames broke at the chainstay. metal fatigue from mid-drives pulling hard. so i'm looking forward to this vector light. steel so easily repairable

but i'll probably just use a DD hub for simplicity and ease of maintenance (my BHT bike is fun but needs constant chain cleaning and lubrication). i'm thinking leaf motor or QS 205 35H. something lightweight

i already got a spare DNM RCP-2 220mm w/ 550lb coil. and fork like yours, Sektor 150mm, but mine is tapered. i noticed that the vector headtube isn't the "semi-integrated" type. so i'm not sure if i could install a tapered bottom race into it...
 
my reviews on hubs are slightly off since I only use $100 28mm stamped steel Ebay 9x7 wind motors and they are slightly weak and groany and only shine at 25-30mph and burn up over 2500w continuous. this build is low power so it fits the bill tho, but I still think a good small mid direct drive will be better overall, but louder.

I haven't had a good powerful hub motor since the X5404 or the Mxus V1 40mm and I eventually sold them like everything I have for no reason and regret it some days later.

I look forward to your build
 
i just ordered a black frame, QS 205 35H (5T winding), and a kelly KLS7230S

you think this 17s6p will fit in the frame?

vector lists the interior compartment size as 445 x 115 x 90. so a 6-cell stack should fit in the 115mm dimension (18mm * 6 = 108mm)

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yeah no problem, I fit 22s6p in mine, you just need to replace the bolts on the inside to flat countersink bolts
 
NICE!! only thing is that the KLS7230 is freaking huge you wont be fitting that anywhere stealthy

what are your plans for that? I would have recommended the KLS7218SW from Eastgem with the Teflon phase wires(the kls7230 has dual very rigid phases)
 
skeetab5780 said:
NICE!! only thing is that the KLS7230 is freaking huge you wont be fitting that anywhere stealthy

what are your plans for that? I would have recommended the KLS7218SW from Eastgem with the Teflon phase wires(the kls7230 has dual very rigid phases)


oh about that forgot to explain. KLS7230 will ultimately go to my BHT dirt bike which could use a bit more power (got lots of space under the seat) but i would still be using it temporarily w/ the vector to determine the right amps to feed the motor to find a good balance between power and heat by playing around w/ the settings. ultimately i'd just buy a cheapo controller for this vector, or find something cheap that'll fit inside the saddle sub-frame

PS I"ll be opening my own build thread asap so i don't mess up your thread too much :lol:
 
Overclocker said:
skeetab5780 said:
NICE!! only thing is that the KLS7230 is freaking huge you wont be fitting that anywhere stealthy

what are your plans for that? I would have recommended the KLS7218SW from Eastgem with the Teflon phase wires(the kls7230 has dual very rigid phases)


oh about that forgot to explain. KLS7230 will ultimately go to my BHT dirt bike which could use a bit more power (got lots of space under the seat) but i would still be using it temporarily w/ the vector to determine the right amps to feed the motor to find a good balance between power and heat by playing around w/ the settings. ultimately i'd just buy a cheapo controller for this vector, or find something cheap that'll fit inside the saddle sub-frame

PS I"ll be opening my own build thread asap so i don't mess up your thread too much :lol:

Ya no worries doesn't bother me, I will def sub to your thread tho

I want to buy a phaserunner but they are too much $$
 
So I got my cruise control switch and my 3-speed switch and i'm going to try and wire them in to increase commute efficiency. This cruise control feature is really going to be a game changer for me I think! Not sure why I waited so long to try one
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skeetab5780 said:
I want to buy a phaserunner but they are too much $$
Possibly an ASI BAC 800 might be an option ?
https://lunacycle.com/asi-bac-800-controller-72v-version/

Same hardware but 100 bucks less. It does not feature a generic Cycle Analyst interface though.
 
HolgiB said:
skeetab5780 said:
I want to buy a phaserunner but they are too much $$
Possibly an ASI BAC 800 might be an option ?
https://lunacycle.com/asi-bac-800-controller-72v-version/

Same hardware but 100 bucks less. It does not feature a generic Cycle Analyst interface though.

that actually looks really nice! I didn't know ASI made something this small form epoxy filled! I don't really care for cycle analysts anyways, I tend to not have a voltage meter on my handlebars which is scary for some but I know my batteries capabilities
 
Got around to fixing another rear flat tire, got a nice downhill tube this time so I don't have to do this again...

and also put on the three speed switch and cruise control. Such cool add-on components that help make the bike easier to control on long trips
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Before wiring...
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finished product after neatening wire loom
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fwiw, it looks like your pics are hosted on google somewhere, rather than attached to your posts here on es (and thus saved with the post). i can't view them even if i copy the image url and paste them into the url bar of the browser. so they're either missing from those specific links, or you don't have permissions set to allow others to view them.

it's also possible that google changed something (even just one character) in those ********extremely******** long urls, whcih means no link using the previous url will work anymore.

or they may have disabled external site access to pics on their servers, like photobucket did.

so while your pics may still be out there on google's servers, you'd have to find them on whatever webpage you used to upload them, and then relink them in each of your posts so that everyone can see them again.

instead, i would recommend that you always attach your pics direclty to your posts, so that anyone that can see the post can see the pics.
 
Artur said:
Just saw this topic here. Thank you for all info you posted here. Just wanted to tell that paint job is now passing QC. And headset switched to catrige style/better option. Also we making fatbike singarm for 180mm dropouts (164mm with dropoutplates inside) and 100mm BB. About rear shock, with our rear shock it will fit srom start (different size of bushings play role here as you mentioned).
Did you ever come up with a fatbike swingarm option? I could not find 180mm dropout option on your website.

Thanks.
 
I dont know what happened to this frame but it is completely unstable and dangerous to ride. Its only running 12s 35a LIPO and if you hit any sort of bump or corner the bike wobbles and sways like a snake

I almost crashed going down a paved sidewalk at like 15mph because the rear end of the bike is so loose and sways lagging behind every turn of the handlebars. every bolt is tight, this bike probably has only 500miles on it if that

all I can say is this has to be a design flaw, my rear hub bearing seem fine and tight as well does the swingarm...the entire bike just is not tight feeling very sloppy, it was not like this when I bought it

I AM LOOKING FOR A NEW EBIKE FRAME, MAYBE ILL GO BACK TO A HARDTAIL BIKE
 
My first though is check the frame for any broken welds/cracks etc... I imagine a frame like that relies heavily on the rectangle box as part of it's structure.
 
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