Sattva Ram said:
It wasnt the hall. The LM35 got bust and that must have messed with the controller cause it uses the hall's power supply. Maybe the LM got cooked when the motor got too hot because the votol started to misbehave after the motor got hot.
The motor is very stinky but windings seem fine magnets okay too...
What could also cause a problem is that i connected the lm's signal to the white wire in the controller. I thought that it's a dud wire cause carrie said it doesnt have temp sensor...maybe it has something after all the white wire is connected to the panel inside...
However I seem to have an issue with the controller still. I did some no load spins HDC off. It was 550 at 50 volts and around 1.3Amp draw but without hdc it also spins 550 at 60 volts but only at 0.9 amp draw. So it seems to me that it always uses some flux weak and it uses a lotta extra amps which means high inefficiency.
Doenst yours try to overspin the motor? Like 10 voltage difference yet same rpm and different amp draw...so maybe I'll run into my initial problem of an always on flux weak eventually...I absolutely hate it that the rpm is not linearly proportional to the voltage it just always revs higher than it should. Which is okay but not okay if it comes at the price of efficiency...
With FW set to 0, and HDC box checked, RPM set to 1200 to unrestrict it, it will go about 700 rpm but you hear it sound a bit busy once over base speed. So i decrees HDC rpm until the no-load max speed doesn’t try to enter FW region.
If i give it 2000 FW then no-load RPM can go to 900 (if HDC RPM set to allow it). But i dont like the sound and my scooter can only use it when going downhill with a tailwind, and I have no hills nearby. Lol.
Did you fix the reverse problem when you disconnected whatever you tied into the hall +5v bus?
I don’t know if your tests changing voltage can show you much because aside from voltage the controller is also using FOC once it gets above sensored mode rpm. Mine seems to shift at around 100 RPM. Then its dead silent while riding.
I think the PI values in the current control loop need to be tunes for battery voltage, lower values needed the higher voltage is.
Also no-load tests aren’t really going to show you what your bike will do on the road. After getting the basic pairing and configuration, all my tuning was done on the road with my laptop sitting on the floorboard connected to the controller. Tweak, reboot, reconnect, test, repeat.
If i had a bicycle too small for a laptop id get an 8” windows 10 tablet and USB adapter or a Votol Bluetooth module.
I had an Acer Iconia Tab8 but the battery bloated and i gave it away. Lol