Like larsb said, first set FW value to 0 and FW compensation to 0 (since you selected V magnets) as shown (not the 10000, leave that alone for now. And check the HDC box.
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The phase angle SHIFT (not to be confused with commutation phase angle of 60 or 120), can accept values from -180 to 180 (360 degrees), which allows you to get it in sync with your first of 6 commutation steps. Normally this is set during the initial pairing because you may need to swap phase and/or hall wires too.
Normally you will match phase and hall wire colors, then the pairing is done entirely in the software. Are your wire colors all matched or did you try to pair externally by swapping wires around?
The controller in forward will send current to phase 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3…if it runs forward than phase wires are ok (for now), before it automatically means the hall sensors are also 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3.
Of it runs backwards. The current os going to 3-2-1-3-2-1-3-2-1 and so are hall sensors. To get it spinning right BOTH 2 phase and 2 hall wires need to be swapped. Ideally with the software.
If it doesn't want to run at all it means phase is going one direction and hall is going the oher, so you need to swap EITHER 2 phase OR 2 hall, but not both. This will kick you up to the first step wjere it either runs forward or backwards.
If it makes noise when rotating then the #1 hall sensor is out os sync with #1 phase. Thats where hall shift comes in. You can set that -180, -120, —60, 0, 60, 120, or 180. Test all those, ignore the motor rotation if it changes direction but runs smooth and quiet. Once you find the quiet and smooth, if the motor still going forward, you’re paired. If it started going backwards, no problem. Just tick/untick both boxed for phase and hall swap. This will make it change direction but it also puts #1 hall out of sync with #1 phase again, no problem. Just retest all the above degrees until it runs smoothly and quiet in the forward direction.
With FW set to zero and HDC checked, 4400 RPM, it should only run up to its base RPM. Maybe 1200 or so.
If its still making a noise under load or acceleration, you need to tune it. This is where it depends how your controller responds to each setting.
But try making small +/-10% adjustments to these 2 fields until your motor accelerates under load without any unusual noise. If these are far out of tune, when you acceleration you will reach a certain rpm that your motor sounds like it will fall apart, like hitting highway rumble stips at 80 mph.
If your controller is good, then speeds Low Med High will use the first field for %HDC rpm (speed) and the second field for % sport mode amps (torque).