waste of time. don't bother.

[Anonymous]

Hi

A NOTE ON THESE SCOOTER HUB MOTORS
They are only different in the ammount of copper included, but after contacting several sellers, I found that they do a 'standard' model 'shape' and 'weight' and the ammount of copper winding differs slightly, but for whatever purposes it is needed the motors are good enough for our ebicycle purposes.
The motors all weigh the same, so therefore it's safe to conclude that they are actually the same motor, probably with different windings, but for my purposes I could use their lowest power scooter motor and upgrade the hell out of it.
Anyway, the model number for these motors is QS7250 - 13454
I'm looking to lace this 8000Watt scooter motor
http://www.hs-escooter.com/sdp/1012764/4/pd-4958252/7980427-2261362/2000W_13_brushless_hub_motor.html
DHL price for this is $160 delivered to the UK
total: $405 for a 8kw max motor is a great deal.
I have the motor.
Now I need to fit it into the rim. The motor weighs 23kg.
What spokes?
What rim?
I can't find anything on ES? I saw johninCR's build ands got inspired to build something to that tune.

Many thanks

Rich

 

[dozentrio]

drill holes around the perimeter of the "rim" and lace it. May need custom spoke lengths. Should work, in theory. Can't say how well. Good luck!

 

[Anonymous]

Can you recommend a motorcycle rim that'll replace a 26" sized bicycle rim?

drill holes around the perimeter of the "rim" and lace it. May need custom spoke lengths. Should work, in theory. Can't say how well. Good luck!

 

[bc_dc]

I don't know of a specific rim, but if you look at dirtbikes, you might find a front wheel that could serve as an ebike rear. I would imagine most motorcycle rear wheels will be too wide for a bicycle, unless you have a Pugsly. That said, maybe a Surly fatbike rim (http://surlybikes.com/parts/category/wheels) is what you need, although that is still an awful lot of weight to put into a bicycle rim of any sort. Even if the weel is built well enough, I would be worried about the handling characteristics of such an equiped bicycle.

Are you putting this motor into a regular bicycle or some other device? If in a bicycle, why this one and not something lighter? Curious since that motor alone weighs similar to many decently powered ebikes.

 

[Stevil_Knevil]

Hi silverrich,

Hi
I'm looking to lace this 3000Watt scooter motor..
..I have the motor.
Now I need to fit it into the rim.

Really (and I mean that in the nicest way)?
I think you might be a little confused about what you just got yourself into.

Welcome to the 'hobby' :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

ys rly
I'm building a hub motor with a bicycle attached to it (rocketmotor!)
hehe no no confusion, I want to build a motor with a frame that I won't worry about.
regarding the motor overheating this is not likely with a large scooter motor.
That is pretty important for me as I have tried using several motors before that were built for electric bicycles and to be honest they were just not right for the purpose. I think lacing this motor into the front rim of an offroad dirtbike is one hell of a good idea, thanks.
I'm going to have to customize the motorcycle spokes... Could somebody explain how to modify the spokes?

There's nothing wrong with taking up a big project that ends well

Hi silverrich,

Hi
I'm looking to lace this 3000Watt scooter motor..
..I have the motor.
Now I need to fit it into the rim.

Really (and I mean that in the nicest way)?
I think you might be a little confused about what you just got yourself into.

Welcome to the 'hobby' :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

just bought a front 21"motocross rim with disc brake and tyre.
How does one modify the spokes? I cant find anything on ES can someone help me find topics on this?
any help would be greatly appreciated

drill holes around the perimeter of the "rim" and lace it. May need custom spoke lengths. Should work, in theory. Can't say how well. Good luck!

 

[Anonymous]

I need to build:

1)Clinches for the hub motor (cut out of 2 inch thick steel with a bolt drilled to hold the hub motor in place) x 2
2) I need to lace the hub motor into the 21" front motocross rim (by modifying the spokes and shortening them? this should be interesting..might need a book on 'how to relace rims')
3) finally need to stretch the rear dropouts of the bicycle under heat from a blowtorch (a car jack would do it)

think i've got a project going for this summer.
tools I need: a welder, blowtorch, metal shop work for a couple of days. hrm....a challenge

I don't mean to annoy anyone, but this is how I do things, I take on a hard (for me) project and finish it
I'd appreciate it if anyone on this forum could guide me with the spoke shortening issue, I have been honest with my skills, and would love to post a video of the completed ebike and am willing to take the challenge of building it - it'll be a great addition to the ebike range and might be a research platform for other enthusiasts looking to upgrade the power of their currently overheating motors.

 

[neptronix]

So, you have 180mm-200mm dropouts on your bike? because that's what these motors require.

 

[Anonymous]

i'm going to widen the dropouts with a car jack hammer and blowtorch... standard metal work to get it to fit, should take 3hours.

So, you have 180mm-200mm dropouts on your bike? because that's what these motors require.

 

[Anonymous]

I wonder if you can find a front mtb fork that'll fit 180mm..maybe from a 50cc offroader ?

So, you have 180mm-200mm dropouts on your bike? because that's what these motors require.

 

[MadRhino]

You don't mod the spokes, you order them the proper length. See Holmes hobby in the sales section. Take off this motor everything that you don't need, you want to shave some weight. The rim can be cut to leave just enough to make a spoke flange, and the disc brake adapter can be made much smaller to fit a standard DH disc brake. Ideally you can make it under 30 pounds, that is a lot already for a bicycle frame.

See what John in CR does with his scooter motors, he had built a few so you might find some valuable information.

 

[Brentis]

I don't mean to come across as harsh, without proper tone.
Dude you need to stop with the buying and start with some reading & ? making. :lol:

I need to build:

1)Clinches for the hub motor (cut out of 2 inch thick steel with a bolt drilled to hold the hub motor in place) x 2
2) I need to lace the hub motor into the 21" front motocross rim (by modifying the spokes and shortening them? this should be interesting..might need a book on 'how to relace rims')
3) finally need to stretch the rear dropouts of the bicycle under heat from a blowtorch (a car jack would do it)


I don't mean to annoy anyone, but this is how I do things, I take on a hard (for me) project and finish it
I'd appreciate it if anyone on this forum could guide me with the spoke shortening issue, I have been honest with my skills, and would love to post a video of the completed ebike and am willing to take the challenge of building it - it'll be a great addition to the ebike range and might be a research platform for other enthusiasts looking to upgrade the power of their currently overheating motors.

I am all for doing your own thing. Testing the boundaries and such.
You will be asking alot of a common bike frame with this motor.
Which I believe to be same as one of these Kelly motors http://kellycontroller.com/brushless-hub-motors-c-21_62.html,
It is wide & designed for motorcycles/scooters & is like 30-50+ pounds with tire.
Rather than stretching a standard 135mm dropout to 200mm+ just fabricate/have fabricated a swingarm to mount it to the best DH mountain bike you can afford.


My 2c
I like the motor you picked. Please dont drill it out.
That motor is designed to run a tire direct to the rim. If you drill it out, mounting spokes & additional rim, it will likely affect its ability to go back to a proper tire.
You strongly need to consider its width to run on a "Bicycle" & which bike is strong enough to contain its fury.
Take advantage of that fact. It allows you to run a nice wide tire(upto4") @ a speed it was wound for.
Tires designed to fit that motor are far superior to bicycle tires.
Look up 13" motorcycle racing slicks
See my "ScootBike" Build in sig. for some inspiration.
Not nearly as potent as your motor. I will run a 10" motor/Tire.
Since you need to modify the bike anyways, leave the motor as is & modify the bike to work.

Ask ?'s before buying, it can save serious bank ache.
What battery/controller? How fast? How far? How steep? How much? Are you lookin' @.

 

[Anonymous]

I think the 10" motor you've got is rated for 84v 8kw? gotta love the high power of these scooter motors
they're not 'too powerful' at all, tame as anything...it's the way forward )))

Good point. I like what you said about the scooter tyre... that might be a good idea if i can source a 20" front disc braked rim and tyre combo on ebay...might need to shorten the cranks on the mtb.

120km/h
0-60 in 3.5secs
Controller: either a 36 fet modded with 4110's or a standard kelly 72v 300A
steep: probably 25% elevation, i'm looking for a hillclimber setup, this motor'll do the trick
Battery: a123 20ah pouch cells 86v 20ah. so that's 26series 1 parallel, might go for 2p depending on the group buy next door.

budget: $1000-2000

I don't mean to come across as harsh, without proper tone.

I need to build:


Ask ?'s before buying, it can save serious bank ache.
What battery/controller? How fast? How far? How steep? How much? Are you lookin' @.

 

[Brentis]

What Bike?

 

[Anonymous]

Kona full suspension 18" mtb. I'll need to change the front tyre if I go with your idea...
It's a pretty good idea.

How does it handle? have you tried running your scooter? acceleration? what controller were you using?

What Bike?

 

[Brentis]

I think the 10" motor you've got is rated for 84v 8kw? gotta love the high power of these scooter motors
they're not 'too powerful' at all, tame as anything...it's the way forward )))

Good point. I like what you said about the scooter tyre... that might be a good idea if i can source a 20" front disc braked rim and tyre combo on ebay...might need to shorten the cranks on the mtb.

120km/h
0-60 in 3.5secs
Controller: either a 36 fet modded with 4110's or a standard kelly 72v 300A
steep: probably 25% elevation, i'm looking for a hillclimber setup, this motor'll do the trick
Battery: a123 20ah pouch cells 86v 20ah. so that's 26series 1 parallel, might go for 2p depending on the group buy next door.

budget: $1000-2000

I don't mean to come across as harsh, without proper tone.

I need to build:


Ask ?'s before buying, it can save serious bank ache.
What battery/controller? How fast? How far? How steep? How much? Are you lookin' @.

My 10" motor is rated @ 500w. It is a fatty though
I plan 24s lipo, so say 90v @ 40amps is 3500w'ish
I hope for 80kph peak on 60kph roads averaging 40kph.
I think Im on the line.

I believe your motor to be similar to this http://kellycontroller.com/hub-motor-72v-6kw13-inch-p-389.html
The only 13" motor they sell. 50lbs. plus tire.
My motor & tire are only 22lbs IIRC. Not able to take the abuse yours can.

Throw that bad boy on a scale.
50 lbs is more than any manufactured bicycle can handle. (an educated guess)
50lbs is more than many complete builds here.

 

[Anonymous]

Then doesn't that make a challenge for upping the power on these motors? maybe the future of ebiking will be using these industrial-strength motors and chopping up our bikes to accomodate for them? instead of using nine continents, hs3545 bamboo cane, bamboo glued... you get the picture....
50mm stator says it all.
I've always been a fan of owning the biggest and the baddest of whatever I build..or at least need to run with the top end stuff

my only problem is making it look 'stealthy', a mountain bike looks stealthy, a folding bicycle looks stealthy... but a 20" bmx where I live doesnt.
I'm going to go for the backpack battery idea next... simply because it's an easy solution out of the battery box problem and can be thrown onto a rear pannier.

the 50lbs weight doesn't bother me, it's a good start for a sturdy heavy high speed ebike. I want it to hug the roads around a corner

I think the 10" motor you've got is rated for 84v 8kw? gotta love the high power of these scooter motors
Throw that bad boy on a scale.
50 lbs is more than any manufactured bicycle can handle. (an educated guess)
50lbs is more than many complete builds here.

 

[Brentis]

Kona full suspension 18" mtb. I'll need to change the front tyre if I go with your idea...
It's a pretty good idea.

How does it handle? have you tried running your scooter? acceleration? what controller were you using?

What Bike?

was the bike pic at the beginning the whole time. I missed it.

Good bike, but its gonna need a new swingarm minimum.
Not a lot of battery room in frame. Where do plan to locate batts?

I have run the scooter hub on the original scooter on 16s a123.
It ran 50+. with ok acceleration.( a bit slower than my 52v 20" Hx3540)
I am still in the process of installing in on the 75- 100lbs lighter Strong ebike frame.

 

[Anonymous]

big stators, it'll handle it. 24s lipo at 40A... awesome that's going to be a go-mobil. 80kph easy from what i've seen on ES too, hell loving yes!

I think the 10" motor you've got is rated for 84v 8kw? gotta love the high power of these scooter motors

My 10" motor is rated @ 500w. It is a fatty though
I plan 24s lipo, so say 90v @ 40amps is 3500w'ish
I hope for 80kph peak on 60kph roads averaging 40kph.
I think Im on the line.

 

[Anonymous]

I could do it on this sort of frame which would be stealthy enough for common usage.. might need to find something more suspension based

I bet your scooter hub ran awesome on 16s, cant wait to see some vids
I had hoped to build an urban assault vehicle that's stealthy yet high powered...I'll need to adequately accomodate for the frame of that MTB, such a shame it's hard to get the 8kw'er into a standard bicycle frame easier... I'll have to think of another frame, or, maybe it won't look too bad with 20" rims...

I guess we're limited to 20" rims with this sort of build..unless I can convert an A2B, not realistic to build it into a 26" mtb rim the spokes and flanges won't handle it

Kona full suspension 18" mtb. I'll need to change the front tyre if I go with your idea...

I have run the scooter hub on the original scooter on 16s a123.
It ran 50+. with ok acceleration.( a bit slower than my 52v 20" Hx3540)
I am still in the process of installing in on the 75- 100lbs lighter Strong ebike frame.

 

[bc_dc]

Good bike, but its gonna need a new swingarm minimum.

Agreed. Even if the Kona has 145mm downhill spacing, bending an Al frame to 200mm will wreck it. With building a new swingarm it would be worth thinking about fabricating beefier links to connect the swingarm to the frame/rear shock as well.

 

[sn0wchyld]

Damn this is going to be interesting... Personally i'd have thought something like a cromotor with watercooling would be better... Lighter and probably more power, smaller controller to. Higher cost though... Needless to say this will be a monster if you can make it work. Hope you dont want to go offroad......

A 19" rim and tyre will give you a wheel rpughly the same size as a 26"bike wheel.

Q
And yea... Make or get someone to make you a new swingarm rather than bend that one out... Youll need space for the wider tire too.

 

[Anonymous]

thanks. I think I will manage to make it work. making a new swingarm? what's the problem with stretching this one out? I think it would be a little bit easier than fabricating an entire arm? modifying it and welding it will be fantastic once i get it to work.

I cant wait to get this beast rolling ))

what controller do you recommend?

Damn this is going to be interesting... Personally i'd have thought something like a cromotor with watercooling would be better... Lighter and probably more power, smaller controller to. Higher cost though... Needless to say this will be a monster if you can make it work. Hope you dont want to go offroad......

A 19" rim and tyre will give you a wheel rpughly the same size as a 26"bike wheel.

Q
And yea... Make or get someone to make you a new swingarm rather than bend that one out... Youll need space for the wider tire too.

 

[MadRhino]

This swingarm is alu, and can't be stretched or bent for it would weaken it by creating micro fissures inside the metal structure. Alu frame building involves hydroforming and welding the bare alloy, then post production cooking at very high temperature hardens it. It makes it very stiff, and can't be modified after. Even a small weld requires it to be cooked again before use. You need a custom swingarm to fit this motor, and the only cheap way is to make it with steel.