Wayne’s Dengfu Carbon Fibre FS 27.5” with Bafang M600 (throttle also)

[tsellers]

Been riding my M600 for about a year with no major issues (many minor ones), but in hindsight I'd also do as Wayne counsel's. We actually ordered lots of spare parts with the bike order, but not the motor. Not only would it save on major downtime when dealing with a problem, think of the extra shipping and brokerage hassles if you have to do it as a separate order.

 

[Sunburntwilly]

Thanks mate. I was hoping that the bugs would have been sorted by now.(a little naive perhaps) But anyways I have paid the quoted price. Had to get the order done now for the March delivery. The fact that you have ridden for a year now without big issues is encouraging.

 

[waynebergman]

I thinkk also with these drives its very important to keep them dry. Dont go smashing through mud puddles and ridding in the rain if you can help it and if the bike gets wet put it somewhere warm if you can when storing after your ride. Also I would suggest not to get carless with the garden hose if this is your style for cleaning. Good luck Sunburnt, update us on the bike when you get it. The new 10 model frame looks very nice, I am sure you will be happy.......wayne

 

[patdam]

It is clear that water infiltration is not managed in the first rev of dengfu frame. Everybody could see that problem will been occur when he seen the lower battery support on E10. It seem it have an evolution onlast E10, where battery cover is modified to reduce water infiltration, i do not know is they have modified battery support (we waiting pics of first purchaser).
On mine i have perform 2 holes on support to avoid water accumulation and i have modified the battery cover alike new rev.

 

[Sunburntwilly]

I think a good thick coat of dialectric grease on those terminals should help. You could even try useing it where you would expect a gasket would typically be.

 

[waynebergman]

Interesting Patdam, I see on your battery pack for the E10 you have 4 prongs. On the M09 the battery packs came with 5 prongs. The thinner guaged wires going to the 3 middle prongs were for the throttle comunication I believe, not sure why or how the now 4 prong differs from the old style 5 prong. Anyone have any ideas on this?

 

[tsellers]

The pinout for the 4 tab battery pack used by Frey for the M600 is illustrated here:
[youtube]https://youtu.be/c-x3YC2Fv2g?list=PLDXT34Ltvhm_luesbIC6dA4Xb05aIU72j&t=1184[/youtube]

 

[waynebergman]

It will be interesting to hear from "Patdam" if he can tell what the middle two prongs service. I would bet it has nothing to do with charging on the E10 but who knows? My middle three prongs are throttle for sure.

 

[patdam]

i have opened the battery but i do not seen exactly the wiring, it is embedded in silicone behind the connections, alike behind the battery support. What i can say: it havn't only 4 contacts, but 6, the 2 gold pins visible on picture are also contacts (i suppose for the externa lswitch). Other point, it have not a switch on battery casing (and display to see the charge). the only external connection from the battery is to the motor with the +- and he have 2 external connections to frame (1 powering switch and 1 for charger)

 

[waynebergman]

THanks Patdam for the clairification on the new
E10 frame and battery.
Regarding my error 30 issues I had a brief moment of relief when I thought I had surely found the problem. After pulling the controller again I got thinking I would like to check out the other green PCB that connects all the little wires to the controller. The wider of the white connectors has 22 pinouts and the other two smaller white connectors has 6 pin outs in each. I checked continuity in all the white wires and pin outs and all seemed well but you can see in the photo one wire has a cut in it. Still good continuity in that wire from conection to conection but I was thinking perhaps it could be shorting on something inside the motor so I covered the cut wire with glue gun patch and tape. Put it all back together but I am getting the same error 30 message. Briefly when the display lights up I can see its giving a zero percentage reading for the displays state of charge but I have two batteries I am testing with and both give the same. At one point I was thinking it may be the battery but I dont think so as both packs give the same error 30 message. Starting to think perhaps I need a new motor, YIkes with the USA to CND conversion and shipping duty etc this may cost me 1000 bucks canadain and I still dont really know if this is the issue. A little dissapointed for sure but things could be worse Taking a break now from the repairs and trouble shooting as other fish to fry. By for now.....wayne

 

[tsellers]

I had a couple of reflections:

- the CAD/USD exchange rate is about as good as it's been in years right now.
- Continuity is an important test, but it does not measure Ampacity, and a glue patch will not restore the latter. However in the case of your wire it does not appear like the strands have sustained a serious insult withal.
- Did that wire nick occur when you opened the motor, or was it always there? If the latter, is it positioned in such a way that it could have shorted to a PCB trace of some sort when the motor was sealed?

 

[waynebergman]

Thanks John for the info. Are you saying then that even though I have continuity from pin out to pin out that the Ampacity issue may cause my error message? If this is the case it would make me feel much better because then this may be my issue. Perhaps I can order from some place a new 22 pin out loom. If this wire is not the issue I have no clue as to how to proceed the trouble shooting other than buying piece by piece all the compnents that may be the issue which could get very costly.

John to answer you question regarding when the cut in the wire happend I have no idea. The loom of wires was a little greasy and I only noticed the cut in the wire after wiping the wires down with alcohol. My guess is as its so tight in that area the wire got crushed and cut with improper locating the path of wires when putting the motor together. Its very tight in there and you almost need very tiny fingers to connect things. Any yes my guess is something could have shorted to the PCB, but not sure.

 

[tsellers]

I'd be pretty surprised if the lack of sufficient current is causing your issue, especially on a multi strand harness like that one, so it's pretty slim as a possible problem. As long as all your contacts are clean and not bent it should be fine, and you would have noticed that when you did your continuity checks.

That leaves us with perhaps a component on the PCB? And if that's the case, of course it would be easy to troubleshoot that if there was a way to get them to send some new PCB's and you could just swap them out. Do you think Bafang might co-operate and agree to send a complete set of PCB's rather than having to buy a new motor? That would be a lot easier than trying to go over every trace, and looking up the spec's on every component on the existing PCB and test them, especially if it turned out that some of them had to be isolated to test properly (for example to use the cheap MOSFET tester I bought they have to be desoldered from the board first and I found it to be such a PITA I gave up).

I guess there is always the carpet bomb/lottery approach: buy and replace any suspicious components that are likely to fail in the hope you found the right one, I'll probably do that next time with MOSFET's.

 

[waynebergman]

Yes John I think going with replacement PCB and wiring looms etc would be my first choice if I can find a supplier for this. I have already replaced the controller and the display complete with its on off/power selector switch. I have a second battery for trouble shooting as well. One other thing it could perhaps be is the two 6 pin white pin outs or the wires that go out from them.

One 6 pin set goes to the BB I believe for torque sensing and does not look easy to get at and the other 6 pin one goes deeper into the motor coming out on the other side of the motor that the controller is on.The photo attached shows the little 6 pin connectors with the red circles highlightig the connectors. I have used Keplers photo here and circles the plugs, I see his plug with just the two black wires if different than mine, I have 6 wires going from mine which is weird that is different. I am leaning towards the PCB complete with its pin outs for power in, speedo etc etc. Also if I can get the 22 pin out loom with its PCB that conects to controller that should be cheap enough and easy enough to plug and play if I can find a supplier for these parts. I will have to call around and see who can supply me with the parts needed. Thanks again John , appreciate it.

 

[tsellers]

I'll ask my contacts who apparently deal with Bafang if sourcing some PCB's might be possible as well, can't hurt to ask.

 

[xp67]

Hi Wayne, what you are experiencing is uncannily familiar to my experience with the M600. An error 30 that eventually lead to a dead motor. Just to confirm, did you get a matching pair of controller + display from FLX? I did and it fixed the bike. If you tried matching a new controller with your Luna display, it may not work. My M600 bike was bought in 2018 and came with the DPC240 display. Yours should be of similar age, correct?

My post from the M500/600 thread:
"Be careful. I learnt the hard way. The controller is specifically matched to the display. I spent 1 year trying to fix my M600 bike which gave error 30 and eventually refused to power up. Changed cable and bought a colour 860c display from Luna Cycle but nil joy. Finally managed to get a controller and matching display DPC240 from FLX. Everything works fine now. The original fault turned out to be a dead ON/OFF switch!? The brand new 860c display did not work because it is not compatible with the controller. My thanks to FLX for the advice!"

I would not worry about the chafed white wire. It looks sound. Tape it up and you are good to go. I am quite pleased with the electronics quality of the M600 motor. I have totally disassembled the motor and I am impressed with the build quality and parts quality. But Bafang really need to look into this Error 30 issue.

 

[waynebergman]

HI XP , thanks for the info, yes I read your post from earlier. Interesting, but the new display I bought even though it was from Luna and the controller from FLX I feel are the correct match as in I did not order the newer style display as I like the old smaller one. I ordered and have the new stock DPC 240 from Luna so thinking it should be an OK match but it is weird in that after I installed the new controller from FLX and connected it to the new display from luna it acted a bit weird in that as soon as the battery was powered on, the display would light up instead of waiting for the displays power button to activate the display. Sadly then the error 30 follows shortly after that. Denfu has got back to me and can only sell me a motor but not the parts I would like instead - the 22 pin out and PCB.
Motor shipped to Canada from China will be too pricey and out of stock also so it would take a while for it to arrive . I may be in apple juice mode befoe long

I have pulled the magnet and winding assembly etc out of the motor case and it weighs a bit so if I ditch the insides of the motor except for the BB spindle and ditch my battery I will have a lighter in weight bike to ride but its been 7 years now going electric I dont know how happy I will be slogging around at 10 MPH - huffing and puffing for sure.

Oh well like I mentioned before it could be worse. I still have all my teeth and a 50lb mountain bike.

 

[waynebergman]

Also "XP67" I just noticed even though I have bought the same replacement style of display from Luna you can see by the serial nunmbers it is a different version than my old one that came with the bike and who knows if the 2.0 version is compatable with the new controller I got. The new replacement states 2.0 and the original was a 1.1 version. If in fact pairing version numbers etc is a pre requesit for this stuff to work we are in for a world of hurt.
Also shown is the weightier part of the motor taken out of the casing should i decide to go with no e power. Apple juice mode shown in the left hand midle photo. It weighs more than if I fabbed up some ali plates with a new BB but because the motor is part of the frames strength I better not tinker with making something home made to replace the motor casings.

 

[xp67]

Hi Wayne, my 860c colour display from Luna also powers up immediately without pressing the ON switch and gives error 30. Maybe it is worth a gamble to get a matching dpc240 display from FLX. It is a cheap gamble. Perhaps not all dpc240 displays are similar. Bafang is really shooting themselves in the foot from the business sense. Everything should be plug and play. And parts should be readily available without mysterious compatibility issues.

Yup, I have been using my ebike on apple juice for close to a year. I really appreciate getting the M600 working again.

 

[waynebergman]

Hi XP67, I think at this point if the main harness being sent out from FLX does not work, my next purchase will be the complete motor from Luna. They have them in stock and $650.00 and be done with it. I am sure FLX is getting tired of my long emails etc and this whole thing of displays not being compatbile should not be an issue if I just buy a motor from Luna as I already bought a new display from them so pretty sure that will be a match. Its getting to the point that this is such a headache I dont want to make one more purchase of the extra display from FLX and then find out it did not solve the problem. Every time I order some little part or cable by the time its getts to Canada with duty etc its a 100 bucks canadian. So ...... either the new harness works, go human powered or bite the bullet and buy a new motor. I am hoping other users to also perhaps chime in with error 30 message stories for the M600 drive that may help.

 

[xp67]

Hi Wayne,
the display that I got from FLX is ver 1.2. Your Luna display is 2.0. There is likely a compatibility issue. If I were in your shoes I would try an FLX controller first. Afterall it is a 79usd gamble vs 650usd. But I can understand your frustration to just get the bike fixed asap without further mucking around.

 

[Tom]

complete motor from Luna. They have them in stock and $650.00 and be done with it.

Ok, sorrry but this made me. :lol: :lol: :lol: Be advised you may also need to pony up another $100 for the BESST tool from Luna (unless you already have it) to rid yourself of their M600 "tuning" (IME worthless PAS in levels below 50%). Then again, maybe they will do it on request. Pretty much everyone seems to agree the "Stock X1 firmware (14.6)" is superior to the luna firmware:

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/main-forum/general-discussions/118423-x-1-m600-besst-firmware-programming/page4

FWIW, another option would be to get in touch with innotrace as they are working on a controller for the M600.

 

[waynebergman]

Thanks XP67 for the nudge on following up with things relating to compatability. I reached out to Marc at FLX regarding the 2.0 display from Luna and with it being compatable with the motor and green PCB controller and Marc had this to say shown in red......
Yes. That will definitely change things. The 2.0 displays are only compatible with the blue PCB controller and you cannot interchange controllers between 2 different types of M600 motors.
I have ordered an older model display from FLX that is compatable with my replacement Green PCB controller and this may solve the problems. I will update as we go.
Also thanks Tom for the info on the 3rd party controllers. Based on the controllers innotrace currently sells I am sure the M600 version will be also in the 700 dollar range, so a bit too much money for me to justify. ....wayne

 

[waynebergman]

Big day today, the new compatable display arrived from FLX. The display lights up and displays as it should and no error 30 message so I am very happy. Took a few hours of tinkering to get the main harness back into place with its tricky placement in the frame. I have done this 4 times now in total I think and its not getting any easier. Just gave a light nudge on the throttle with the motor on the bench to check life to the system and then the rest of the daylight hours to put things back together . Tomorrow will be test day with the bike on the road under power. I decided to leave the new controller in from FLX as I am curious to see how its programed. I requested the 45 KM speed limit and also I hope the power delivery will be as smooth as my old original controller. If the new FLX controller works well then I have my original spare Green PCB controller that is compatible with my motor in my spare parts supply so this will be a comfort.

As shown in the photos all the gears look great. I have the original spec plastic gear before Luna did the silent treatment and the steel option.The whole drive looks great inside. Not sure how many miles I have done but I am ready for my fourth set of tires pretty soon to give a feel of how much service the drive has provided. I regreased the motor with the mobil 28.

The battery appears to not be taking a full charge. Only at 51.1 volts so I may order a new pack from Dengfu as there prices are the best for a replacement pack I think. I keep buying these cheapo crap chargers so who knows maybe its a charger problem.

I will update tomorrow with regards to how the FLX controller works and its programming.

Big thanks to Marc at FLX and also XP67 for the heads up on the display, long story short is it was the display all along. Could have saved my self a lot of greif on this if I had ordered extra spares at the time of original purchase to trouble shoot for sure.

 

[patdam]

happy for you wayne. pity all desagrements just for the display.

I have seen on ali DPC860C announced for M600/500, i will store one

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4001053968920.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.74036c37CFRWe1