FWIW, with a clamping torque arm (that is thoroughly attached to the frame), you wouldn't need axle nuts/washers (except whatever is used to mate the axle shoulders to the frame).
What's your view on the regen controller? As John CR and Grin Tech suggest : the axle goes to an fro and is fighting against the dropouts. Without regen, the axle will only go one way. So to have regen on a front wheel drive, you need a nearly perfect set up. Regen makes practically no sense anyways as it makes tiny trickle charges.amberwolf said:FWIW, with a clamping torque arm (that is thoroughly attached to the frame), you wouldn't need axle nuts/washers (except whatever is used to mate the axle shoulders to the frame).
RTLSHIP said:Regen makes practically no sense anyways as it makes tiny trickle charges.
I have read that it can give 1.5 miles on 30 miles of riding. That ain't much when you consider that most people don't need to rideJohn in CR said:RTLSHIP said:Regen makes practically no sense anyways as it makes tiny trickle charges.
I can't believe someone is still posting these kinds of anti-regen falsehoods in 2021.
-Regen adds range, it's like getting 5% or more of free battery.
-Reduces maintenance time and cost (I haven't changed a brake pad or fiddled with brake adjustment in years, and I'd use regen if it had no other benefits.
-Increases safety by giving you anti-lock braking, and keeps mechanical brakes fresh and cool for emergency stops and for much safer descents.
I can't believe you're talking about welding on the motor axle when the dropouts those forks could so easily be adapted to become clamping dropouts
RTLSHIP said:I have read that it can give 1.5 miles on 30 miles of riding. That ain't much when you consider that most people don't need to rideJohn in CR said:RTLSHIP said:Regen makes practically no sense anyways as it makes tiny trickle charges.
I can't believe someone is still posting these kinds of anti-regen falsehoods in 2021.
-Regen adds range, it's like getting 5% or more of free battery.
-Reduces maintenance time and cost (I haven't changed a brake pad or fiddled with brake adjustment in years, and I'd use regen if it had no other benefits.
-Increases safety by giving you anti-lock braking, and keeps mechanical brakes fresh and cool for emergency stops and for much safer descents.
I can't believe you're talking about welding on the motor axle when the dropouts those forks could so easily be adapted to become clamping dropouts
that far. Further I have read that regen is not so good with lithium as it can heat up battery. Further, I'm repeating what you and grin tech have publish in refrence to spinouts with repect to regen. So maybe I used histrionics calling it tiny trickle charges.
Finally, what I'm talking about now is using a controller without regen as opposed to welding. You are the guy that believed
somebody back in 2012? But you can't believe I believe something? You apparently believe I'm living in 2010 because my kit is such?
RTLSHIP said:Here are a few more pics.
Chalo said:RTLSHIP said:Here are a few more pics.
Dude. Those forks are janky AF. Would you use them as a wrench? No you would not. That makes them unsuitable for restraining axle torque.
In the USA, squashed-tube fork tips like that are common only on department store bikes from the 20th century. Is that what you're using?
The forks are strong. They are Chromoly. The tips are solid 5 mm or 1/4" as you can see. No squashed tips. Yes the main body of the fork is tubular but that's common to every bike I've had. I can't imagine what a solid tubeless steel fork would weigh.
I got this bike practically free and brand new though it is a 1991. And the same designed forks have held down the other hub for several years without incident. I think this will work out fine if I go w/ nonregen controller and tie it down properly. I will not weld.
Chalo said:Dude. Those forks are janky AF. Would you use them as a wrench? No you would not. That makes them unsuitable for restraining axle torque.
In the USA, squashed-tube fork tips like that are common only on department store bikes from the 20th century. Is that what you're using?
RTLSHIP said:The forks are strong. They are Chromoly. The tips are solid 5 mm or 1/4" as you can see. No squashed tips.
John in CR said:-Regen adds range, it's like getting 5% or more of free battery.
[/quote] these forks were not crimped together if that's what you suggest. I did alter the appearance by filing to fit. Having read up on torque arms, I can now understand that I'm not the only incompetent one with this issue. Some have claimed that anything above 500 watts generates some smearing etc. Definitely as a 5 to 7 mile commuter, I don't need regen related torque.Chalo said:RTLSHIP said:The forks are strong. They are Chromoly. The tips are solid 5 mm or 1/4" as you can see. No squashed tips.
Well, either they're smashed into shape from the tube ends (like an old Huffy), or they're styled to look as if they were. I have never seen a chromoly fork with that treatment, but in principle chromoly can do all the same things that mild steel does, process-wise.
This is a more usual style of fork tip on a quality chromoly fork:
Screenshot_20210505-101444.png
I hope you can see how these are better shaped to resist torque from a flatted axle than the fork tips you have.
Chalo said:Well, either they're smashed into shape from the tube ends (like an old Huffy), or they're styled to look as if they were. I have never seen a chromoly fork with that treatment, but in principle chromoly can do all the same things that mild steel does, process-wise.
RTLSHIP said:In reality, buying a decent $1000. integrated bike will eliminate these problems.
E-HP said:RTLSHIP said:In reality, buying a decent $1000. integrated bike will eliminate these problems.
Are you talking about an ebike?
RTLSHIP said:E-HP said:RTLSHIP said:In reality, buying a decent $1000. integrated bike will eliminate these problems.
Are you talking about an ebike?
Yes, I want to get a rear wheel drive about 1000W. Decent could be more than $1000. I'm assuming an integrated bike has an integrated torque system. and want to go rear wheel. I want something that will be compatible with my current battery packs such that battery packs can be alternated. Right now I just want to use what I have. I don't want to turn home into a bike barn, so I have to get rid of these 2 kits/bikes if I'm going to replace them. That's the tougher part.
Dogman,, where do you get such a monster sized clamp? Or do you make it your self. I'm still messing with these old aotema kits. They actually work fine. I have purchase another torque arm that is 10 x 12 and I'm leaning towards going without regen controller as my other bike runs fine with a Lyen and regular toque arm. This seems to eliminate need to weld. Another idea is to remove/disconnect the regen thanks for input.dogman dan said:All you need is a good tight TA. As I recall, the E bikekit torque arm you have is not exactly the tightest I have seen. Yours may be different, I had some fairly loose ones. But for regen, nothing beats the tightness of a clamping torque arm.
Weld a good thick piece of angle iron to the fork, then bolt a similar one to it, clamping the motor into the fork. Throw away the nuts and washers, the clamp is the thing now.
Something like this, but weld one of the angles to the fork. mongoose pinch dropout.JPG
If the axle is not too round yet, you could also just get, or make, a tighter torque arm, or weld a little on the inside of the one you have, then file back down to a super tight fit.
Then, if you spot weld the join on the TA, it will make it resist the forces a lot better, since the bolt can't slip no matter what. TA welded to fix position.jpg
I would practically give you this stock controller with regen as I live in pretty flat Florida. I don't know if it is compatible withyour motor etc. But regen is perhaps useful for hilly/ mountain areas. I don't need it for a 7 to 10 mile flat ride.Scootiggy said:Sorry to butt in, but I am trying to add regen to an XM-3100 19S 40Ah LiFePO4 build (with original 10" hubmonster), and was wondering whether @John in CR (or anyone else) knows whether the original 6-phase controller can be adapted for regen? I have no need for lots of extra power, just the regen braking as I live in the mountains and my brake discs hit 100 C after 5 minutes of "gentle" descent...
I realise I will probably have to adapt the axle clamping situation (could North-Lock washers do the trick?)
Thanks!
RTLSHIP said:This Bike has been running nicely since Thanksgiving. The small controller(non-regen) is under the bike rack. The battery in this pic is 48 -20 lifepo. I bought the bike for $35 back in 2017. It is nearly new for a 1991 model. It was apparently in a garage for 25 yrs.
Chalo said:How are those brakes working for you?