What chain do you use on your mid drive E-Bike?

[Grant Adamson]

For the last 8 years I have used a rear hub motor, and never had any issues with the drive line.

Now that I have switched to a BBSHD I am experiencing chain stretch and wonder if there are some chains that are better than others.

If anyone has sorted through all the BS and has user experience, I would really appreciate your advice. Thank you.

 

[Balmorhea]

Wider chains (lower gear counts) last longer, and decent not-cheapest chains last longer. It's better that you replace the chain often enough than you get the best possible chain. (I recommend KMC X-series chains for their quality-to-price ratio.) But most important is to recognize that when you put superhuman power through a bike's gears, you'll wear it out fast. The more often you replace the chain, the less often you have to replace the cassette or freewheel.

Get a chain checker and use it often, and keep spare chains handy. You won't be sorry you did.

I switched from a Bafang BBS02 to a front hub motor just to distribute wear and tear more evenly, in a way I was happier to keep up with. The BBS02 was more fun to ride, but the hub motor is much easier to live with.

 

[electric_nz]

I used the absolute cheapest shimano 6-8 speed chain and managed between 500-1000km of constant 2500W abuse out of it as it’s heavy and solid compared to the thinner 9-11 speed chains. Replaced the cluster once as well for next to nothing, helped with skipping

 

[Balmorhea]

I used the absolute cheapest shimano 6-8 speed chain and managed between 500-1000km of constant 2500W abuse out of it as it’s heavy and solid compared to the thinner 9-11 speed chains. Replaced the cluster once as well for next to nothing, helped with skipping

By the time the chain skips under load, it’s been knackered for some time.

 

[electric_nz]

I think it’s more to do with being in too high a gear and putting too much torque thru the chain. Happens on a brand new chain and cluster in a tall gear (even under pedal power alone)

 

[E-HP]

I used the absolute cheapest shimano 6-8 speed chain and managed between 500-1000km of constant 2500W abuse out of it as it’s heavy and solid compared to the thinner 9-11 speed chains. Replaced the cluster once as well for next to nothing, helped with skipping

By the time the chain skips under load, it’s been knackered for some time.

Yup, like on a motorcycle, when the chain stretches, it takes the rest of the drive train with it and vice versa, so if your chain is skipping, your gears are likely toast. If you change the chain without changing the gears, they will ruin the new chain fast.

 

[markz]

Define abuse?
I mean do you even pedal at all from a stand still or do you strictly go throttle. Next how do you apply the throttle or you just go w.o.t. no matter what or do you slowly apply throttle. Also do you stop and go a lot or you just cruise at speed for long periods. All have a factor in what the chain stress is experiencing.

Cheapest $4 chain lasting that distance is good, I'd say I would do 500km in 2 weeks easy.

I used the absolute cheapest shimano 6-8 speed chain and managed between 500-1000km of constant 2500W abuse out of it as it’s heavy and solid compared to the thinner 9-11 speed chains. Replaced the cluster once as well for next to nothing, helped with skipping

 

[jpacadd]

I just use a standard decent quality 9 speed chain, I think shimano with kmc quick links or whoever makes them, I bought a bunch. I've never broken a chain and I'm well north of 250 and do a lot of harsh offroading with my BBSHD.

 

[Grant Adamson]

Thank you all for your great responses.

 

[DtiK]

KMC Z1EHX is pretty good chain.

noticeably more durable compared to Z8-series for example. If I got about 150km on Z8.1, I get 500km with Z1EHX.

I think E101 EPT Wide is best you can get.

 

[Balmorhea]

KMC Z1EHX is pretty good chain.

noticeably more durable compared to Z8-series for example. If I got about 150km on Z8.1, I get 500km with Z1EHX.

That's a single speed chain. Folks who have derailleurs can't use it. Folks who have single speed bikes would be better off with a hub motor. So that leaves internal gears. Is that what you use?

 

[DtiK]

KMC Z1EHX is pretty good chain.

noticeably more durable compared to Z8-series for example. If I got about 150km on Z8.1, I get 500km with Z1EHX.

That's a single speed chain. Folks who have derailleurs can't use it. Folks who have single speed bikes would be better off with a hub motor. So that leaves internal gears. Is that what you use?

I used to have internal gears but ditched it, useless. Now single speed without gears. Cyclone 3000w doesnt need gears.

 

[Balmorhea]

That's a single speed chain. Folks who have derailleurs can't use it. Folks who have single speed bikes would be better off with a hub motor. So that leaves internal gears. Is that what you use?

I used to have internal gears but ditched it, useless. Now single speed without gears. Cyclone 3000w doesnt need gears.

You could have the same performance with a hub motor, without ragging out your bike’s chain drive and front freewheel. Just like a hub motor, you have to trade off acceleration/climbing against top speed by choosing a fixed ratio, but you don’t get the low maintenance and reliability of a hub motor.

 

[DtiK]

That's a single speed chain. Folks who have derailleurs can't use it. Folks who have single speed bikes would be better off with a hub motor. So that leaves internal gears. Is that what you use?

I used to have internal gears but ditched it, useless. Now single speed without gears. Cyclone 3000w doesnt need gears.

You could have the same performance with a hub motor, without ragging out your bike’s chain drive and front freewheel. Just like a hub motor, you have to trade off acceleration/climbing against top speed by choosing a fixed ratio, but you don’t get the low maintenance and reliability of a hub motor.

I know... now. Well. If cyclone burns one day, its time to get hubmotor...

 

[markz]

Gears are nice to have, but you surely dont need 10, 11 or 12 speeds. Cheap components in the 5, 6, 7, 8 speeds are good enough and widely available. A Walmart store would not sell a 12 speed chain or even a 10 speed from what I see from Seller Walmart on Walmart.com and yes sometimes that matters because I've had chains break, tire sidewalls tear, tubes split during a ride and had to hit up a department store for parts. I remember a year or two ago now I hit up a department store to buy a tube, I didnt have a pump so I bought that and flat head screw drivers for tire levers as they didnt have the plastic ones. I was doing my thing and some roadies came by and one had a broken seat post. His non-standard seat tube diameter was not in stock but he was able to gerry rig so that it worked.

 

[ginekolog]

I use 9speed shimano or KMC. Both last 2000 km of hard use (mud, snow, 1500W power, ...). Then wear indicator is 0.75 mm.
I clean dirty chain after muddy ride with garden hose and apply oil. I modified my 9 speed cassete to 3 speed (32,24,14) and change it every 4000km (14T cog every 2000km).

 

[sysrq]

I used the absolute cheapest shimano 6-8 speed chain and managed between 500-1000km of constant 2500W abuse out of it as it’s heavy and solid compared to the thinner 9-11 speed chains. Replaced the cluster once as well for next to nothing, helped with skipping

Some say 11 and 12 speed chains are hardened more so they should last long enough. The main thing is to get rid of sand which reduces drivetrain efficiency on narrow wide chainrings.
8 speed kmc chain only lasted 1000km with TSDZ2. Might be because of bad chainline in some gears or it was counterfeit.

 

[TPEHAK]

KMC eCargo1 EPT chain is the strongest and the most durable 1/2"x1/8" chain.

Of course you need a gearhub to use this chain. If you ride a lot derraleurs suck for e-bikes.

eCargo1 EPT- KMC

www.kmcchain.com

 

[richj8990]

Yup, like on a motorcycle, when the chain stretches, it takes the rest of the drive train with it and vice versa, so if your chain is skipping, your gears are likely toast. If you change the chain without changing the gears, they will ruin the new chain fast.

I'm not so sure about that statement. Maybe this does not apply to mid-drives, but I really do feel that overall the chain is stronger than the chainring or cassette. Yes, a 1/2 worn cassette can break in a new chain but that chain will then still last a pretty long time, it's not going to be ruined in 50 miles or anything. I've done it at least a half-dozen times...first 10-20 miles the drivetrain is buzzy and rattles and then the chain slips into the cassette better, no problems for the next 1000+ miles. It only wears down a little until it's broken in and then the wear is linear. Again, that's on a normal bike or hub drive, not a mid-drive.

Conversely, it's probably better to put a new cassette on a somewhat worn chain, as long as there is no slipping again after 10-20 miles. Why do it this way? When you have multiple bikes, chainrings, chains, and rear wheels / cassettes, and often switch rear wheels between bikes, you either spend a ton of money changing everything at the same time (a lot / very often) or you pick and choose what to replace carefully and gently break in the new component. When you are doing 11-speed, and the cassettes can be $100+, chains $40-50 each, you can't just throw money at the problem every few months, you have to finesse it. Again, on a non-mid drive...!

 

[richj8990]

You could have the same performance with a hub motor, without ragging out your bike’s chain drive and front freewheel. Just like a hub motor, you have to trade off acceleration/climbing against top speed by choosing a fixed ratio, but you don’t get the low maintenance and reliability of a hub motor.

Addendum: you can get the same ballpark of performance with a hub motor on pavement that you can with a mid-drive. Pavement. Not offroad. Not that hub drives can't be used offroad, but the performance is apples and oranges. Mid-drives are not a million times better every time but in general, on a straight, steeper hill with a bit of loose dirt and obstacles, the mid-drive will do very well.

 

[calab]

I been wondering about that, with a bbshd vs a mac. Mid drive is good for medium to hard riding trails, while the geared hub motor would be good for cruising the flat paths and mild trail use, short ups (hills) to blast through. Balance a factor as the hub makes it rear heavy. Cheapest chains, I think a hub wins out because of the wear and tear on mids and a single slight issue on a mid and your most likely walking.

 

[richj8990]

I been wondering about that, with a bbshd vs a mac. Mid drive is good for medium to hard riding trails, while the geared hub motor would be good for cruising the flat paths and mild trail use, short ups (hills) to blast through. Balance a factor as the hub makes it rear heavy. Cheapest chains, I think a hub wins out because of the wear and tear on mids and a single slight issue on a mid and your most likely walking.

A cheap chain is like 25-30% cheaper than a KMC chain. 8-speed you can get a decent chain for like $10. 11-speed $40.

The 1000W Mac is interesting but really, a $350 USD Bafang 500W geared hub motor will do the job most of the time (but I really want to emphasize that you need the right tires). Tire traction is a huge deal offroad for any type of e-bike. A 26x1.95 tire is not going to cut it on a lot of offroad stuff. If you are not using the smallest chainring on a hub drive, a 2.5 tire in back (if it can fit) can really help a lot. They have stuff like the Maxxis Assegai and Hi-Roller II in 2.5. For 2.4 you can do something like a Kenda Pinner Pro, or even a mud tire that has really nice spikes for loose stuff. I've found that both on the front and the rear I really need top of the line fresh, wide MTB downhill tires to really get the most out of a hub drive for climbing. Mid-drive...meh. Whatever tire you want you throw on. Motor does the rest.

 

[Tamaranchorider]

One chain I won’t use anymore is a Shimano HG 40. Too narrow and won’t fit a narrow-wide chainring.

 

[offGridDownUnder]

chain stretch

Most if not all of you know this, but newbies may be attracted by the word 'chain' in the title, so ...

Chains don't stretch. They wear and get longer.

Technically a metal chain has some 'spring', but you'll need good measuring equipment to notice it. Also technically the links of a metal chain can be pulled beyond the plastic limit, deform permanently, and thus stretch - but no bicycle motor has the power to do this. And the rivets will give way before you approach that load anyway.

Chains wear, they don't stretch. And past a modest limit (3% - 5%) they get enough out of what the drive train is designed for to begin damaging the sprockets.

 

[TPEHAK]

Chain pins rub into the chain links and deform and remove the material from each other due to pressure and abrasion so the pins shift against the links making the chain longer.