Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Get one of those little gyro sensors like they use in the Segway and tie it into the controller. Even a klutz like me could ride a wheelie then.
 
fechter said:
Get one of those little gyro sensors like they use in the Segway and tie it into the controller. Even a klutz like me could ride a wheelie then.
Thats a great idea and I am already amazing at wheelies and I would be able to make my friends think I was a god or a freak of nature. Not to mention how this could be incorperated into a e-motorcycle and when the cops pull you over you could try to explain to them how it is designed to do that and its not stunting lol.
 
Building a 6 pack !

14 cells instead of 15 just for convenience, i want to keep the cells in pairs as this pack will be passed along to a different bike next year when i switch to LiPo for the RC bike.

Cut the original Tidal Force kick stand down to size for my 20" rear so no more threading clamps to keep the bike upright.

Then i take the freewheel bolts off to add a spacer for the outside 48t, the chains are too close to each other, the pins on the chains are showing signs of rubbing.. don't need much, like 1mm ..
 

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Hey Man,

I am really looking forward to this!

Whining noise aside, I think you will be a complete convert to the RC cult once you run up near 50 volts. Then when you move to Lipo, you will be a total addict! :mrgreen:

Matt
 
14 cells gives me 47v, 45 or so under load, good enough for the next few months until snow falls :evil:

Oh, one more thing, may PM fechter if he's not reading this, but i think the throttle box has caps built in so as long as the wires from the throttle box to the controller are short ( 10g and 10" worth ) the run from the throttle box to my backpack can be long without issues ?

I'm using anderson PP45's with 10g wire, i have PP75's on hand however, if anyone thinks i should upgrade.. it can be done.. ( the 75's are considerably bigger !! .. like WAY bigger ).. just not convenient as all my stuff(chargers, etc ) is PP30/45 standard.

Got to it this morning..
 

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This is really coming along nicely Ypedal. I can't wait until you get to the point to where you get video of it running in the streets. I'll also be very interested to hear whether the noise decreases. I love this mechanics of this stuff, but the noise has kept me from attempting one of my own.

-JD
 
Yep.. i'm getting there.. been a long trip to get to this point but i'm very close to being up and running..

I added washers to the outside chainring, gives me space between the chains, to my delightful surprise this eliminated a portion of the noise from the system !!!! chain zipping against each other was a factor... :p now my chainring and rear ENO don't line up perfectly, however it should work fine i think..
 

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Just had a thought regarding chain noise mate, the ENO freewheel and the front sprocket do they match? ie. do they both use the same chain size? I believe there is two different size chains available for bicycles, ones used for bikes with a derailleur are slimmer than those used on BMX bikes they are much wider. Just a thought anywayz...

Look forward to hearing how you go tomorrow/today? with road test GIVE IT SHIT!!!! LoL

KiM
 
AussieJester said:
Just had a thought regarding chain noise mate, the ENO freewheel and the front sprocket do they match? ie. do they both use the same chain size? I believe there is two different size chains available for bicycles, ones used for bikes with a derailleur are slimmer than those used on BMX bikes they are much wider. Just a thought anywayz...
I've just been doing some investigating along these lines myself. So the ENO frewheel is designed for 3/32 width chain which is the most common bike chain, suitable for multispeed up to 9-speed clusters. You can then get even thinner chain for 10-speed clusters on road bikes? Some BMXs use 1/8 width chain, and you can get freewheels to suit this but not the ENO ones I believe.(please correct me if any of this is wrong!)
 
The tooth width on the eno freewheel will accept bmx width and multi speed width. The BMX chains are wider but the sprockets are not so thick that a 9 speed chain won't fit. The multispeed chainrings are very thin however.
 
Ypedal said:
Aparently you can use the ENO with either chain, i'm usin 1/8 because i wanted half link KHE in order to keep the chain as short as possible ( and it looks cool imo )

Would thinner chain run more quietly ?

Would have to wouldn't it due to the simple fact there's less surface area of chain rubbing together making noise? I would think the half link chains would be noisier again due to the more links/area of chain?? Just a guess here hopefully someone could enlighten us? I was looking at using the half link chains for the reasons YManz mentioned they do look cool and thea length can be adjusted more accurately...I still will regardless as im using chains only on the manual pedals plus noise don't really bother me anywayz :)

Meant to ask YPedal...since your at the pc and nobody has seen my post in worklog yet... im after the measurement from top of seat to the bottom bracket so i can place my seat in correct spot on my new frame anychance you could grab the tape and checkz it for me? along with your approximate height so i can make necessary adjustments...Im ~5" 10-11 Cheers if your able to anywayz... :)

KiM
 
IT'S ALIVE !!!!!

I threw myself off the seat once :mrgreen: ( gotta be careful on startup with a 20" rear wheel and 24 front !!!)

Did my usual uphill villa run, burned up 5.5ah doing it !!!!! :shock:


Temperatures : By the time i got off the bike, got into the house, found my digital IR thermometer and ran back outside..

Battery temp in backpack : 40 celcius
Controller : 36 celcius
Motor : 75 CELCIUS !!!!! :shock: ( i want my fingerprints back :lol: )

I set the LVC to 30v so no more controller shutdown on this ride :twisted: , i'm getting 96 peak amps on the CA meter and cruising at 30 to 40 amps, voltage into the low 40's under load.

Gearing, oh boy, can i ever gear this thing way more down.. i started in lowest possible ( hill mode ) on the NuVinci, ramping up the gear range you can hear the motor bog down for a moment then speed proportionally comes up, will re-charge and do again with GPS on board..

Will take Video camera on next run this afternoon !
 
Sound cool!

You will notice RC motors use alot of power just spinning the drive and they use alot at the highest output. But, when run in their sweet spot, they are really happy and efficient. Your efficiency will not be as good as others due to haveing 4 stages and the Nuvinci hub. But, it will still be plenty good.

75C is fine for that motor. I have seen 106C on an Astro once and I know of one Astro (3220) user who has hit over 120C!

If you have room for it, I can send you a heat sink or two to help cool the motor down. But, again, 75C is not bad.

Matt
 
Alright.. we have some data to share !!!!

I'm stuck charging the 6 cells at 2 amps so a fillup takes a while, if i can tweak one of my 8 cell soneils to charge 6 cells it would be awsome.. will take one apart to night to see if there are adjustment pots..

So, on a full charge, with no regard for efficienty, full throttle and away we go..

7.8 kms
max speed 59.7 km/h
average speed 37 km/h
12 minutes
8 ah ! :shock:

Battery temps : 50 celcius
Motor temps : 90 celcius !! ( measured on black aluminum face plate from the drive as the silver on the motor deflects the IR reading )

max speed was while going down hill ramping up the gear range, never got to the max as i was drawing 96 amps for quite a number of seconds at a time, motor makes one very sweet growl/whine at this power output....

I've been biting my tonge until this moment, but here goes an honest comment, imo, my 72v X5304 hub motor in a 20" wheel at 50 amps will keep up with this RC bike !!!!! :shock: and i would double the range on the same amount of power ! We will line them up tomorrow at the end of the street and see how it goes ! :twisted:

Also, tomorrow i'm swapping the 18t eno for a 16t going to the cranks. If i can get the adapter out of the 18t that is.. :lol:
 

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Yup, gear that thing down!

You could also switch the crank sprockets so the drive uses the larger crank sprocket and the smaller sprocket drives the rear wheel.

At 100 amps, you are running the motor past its max efficiency point. 3kw is about the point efficiency drops off on these 3210s. They run great at 4kw, but make alot more heat.

You have a number of things going against you;

#1 Four reduction stages.
#2 The rear hub.
#3 Tall gearing.

The tall gearing is a big issue. Gearing down will give you alot more poke. :D

RC drives are funny, stay within their efficiency range and you are rewarded with very good range and low heat. Run past that point and you will see a huge drop in efficiency.

It sounds like the drive is just working too hard at too low RPM. Gear it down 30% or so and see how it runs.

Matt
 
I love the new sig !! lol.... just awsome !.. :D

I can't go any bigger on the chainring, won't clear the frame..

Would be nice to know or quantify how much i'm loosing to the rear hub, that NuVinci does actually get warm after a run like this.. not hot but warm so there is some energy loss going on..

May have to bolt in a normal 20" wheel with sproket and do some testing...

Will start with the 16t on the drive and see how it works out..
 
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