Yamaha YZ250F

Thanks for sharing the details, I'm going to see if I can track down drive pulleys that may fit and would be strong enough, snowmobile quick drive pulleys, belts and shaft look promising, would need to modify the motor pulley to fit the shaft.
It was icy in spots last weekend. Me and the 2 buddies I was there with was the only ones that didnt run studs I think :mrgreen:
The cold weather seems to stay, so now they are on:



New tires this year, so I hope for better traction than last year..
When I was there I made a pretty big overhaul with new chain and sprockets etc.
Also had a look at the primary:


Not bad, I think it was in the summer I tightened it.
The tension varies when I turn the motor though, so I think I will change the chain and see if that helps.
But I dont have one now, so it will have to wait.


Therapy work, cleaning rollers :rolleyes:
It was too late for these ones, but I didnt have any new bearings so they will have to do for now..
The shock got a new lower bearing at least.
The rear brake pump is for a clutch and has a small fluid reservoir. When the pads get worn it is easy to get air in the system.
So I draw up a raiser to get more volume:



It is probably about the same size as the front one now, so I hope that will do the trick.

A problem when riding in the winter is cold hands and feet.
The hands are worst at first, but usually gets better after some riding. But then the feet starts getting cold instead.
So I made this little add on to my diesel heater:



I tried to direct a reasonable amount of air to the boots, it remains to be determined if should be adjusted. But so far it seems to give good flow both to the boots and past them.
The other box I have made before, it is for drying/heating of helmet, gloves and glasses.
It was cold last weekend, I think it was about -9`C. It had been rather cold for a long time, so I expected the water puddles to be more or less frozen solid.
But that was not the case, the ice broke on several of them:



The rear brake didnt work after a while, but I had my electric one ;)
I thought before the ride that I wouldnt have to wash the bike afterwards, I was very wrong..
It's still clean enough; I can still see parts of the bike! ;)
I had to leave it in the garage overnight to melt, neither motorcycle nor garage floor was a pretty sight the next day :rolleyes:

I decided it was time to try some dark driving. It is a little late in the season to start thinking about it, but better late than never:



I mounted a XT60 on the light bracket. I hope it will just part there, without anything braking if the wire gets stuck somewhere or something..


A little switch to change light color on the middle lights.
(I think it is 6000 or 3000 kelvin)
The bigger lights are 100g each, the smaller are 43g I think. Not sure about the total weight, but I guess about 500g.
I will have light on the bike too, but I try to have a shorter, broader beam. On the helmet it is more spot light to see where you are heading.
From what I have read it is important to have most of the longer light on the helmet, otherwise it is easy to get seasick.
So this is not something I made up, this is how it is usually done.
There are kits, but they are expensive..
Like this:


That is popular with pro riders, but I think I can get away with less.
(Divide by 11 or thereabout to get euro or us dollars)
A little more on the light. I tried a H4 light, identical to the one I had on the bike:


And a 40w (confirmed to be true) led working light:


I think that will work fine and modified an old, a little broken front cover:


It wasent easy to fit the dc dc converter, but it eventually found its place behind the battery:


Thanks, at the moment I am struggling to get my shul (vesc) express working..
It is so annoying with computer stuff, endless hours banging the head against a wall and no result 😖

First I couldnt connect to the damn thing at all. Finally when I borrowed a computer with windows 10 it worked, then I was able to install fw (that I also had to find on the internet how to)
Then I didnt get any logs, and found that I had to install some "package" to be able to set up logging preferences.

Now the express wont communicate with the controller any more, not sure if that came after installing the package 🙄
Tried uninstall the package from the express, but then it didnt work so I had to install FW again.
Also tried beta fw 6.05 in the express, didnt help.
After that I dont dare to try to uninstall the package from the controller..

It dosent seem to communicate with the gps module either, but for now that feels kind of secondary even if it kind of effectively helps break the spirit 😕

frock, I hate this shit. Give me some metal and a welder, or some wires and components or whatever. As long as it dosent need computer programming to work..
frock, I hate this shit. Give me some metal and a welder, or some wires and components or whatever. As long as it dosent need computer programming to work..
That is exactly how I feel about just about everything...but since nothing does what I want it to do (in any hardware or software), I can either do it (or learn it) or live with whatever problems / poor design someone else decided should exist. :lol:
Back after sulking for a while, and I took an approach that I master better:


This is the can bus with both controller and express connected.
Looks like a healthy bus to me, very busy though. (seems like the controller likes to talk a lot ;) )

If I split it and test the controller side it looks about the same. On the express side there is nothing.
Zero volts on both high and low, nothing happens even though I am connected to it with the computer and it is connected to the controllers 5v and I press "scan can"
The 120ohm end resistor is there, when measuring between high and low.

So I suppose the question now is if it can be a setting/programming issue or if it has to be hardware?
If the can was just inactive it should have been at 2,5v, but at sleep it should be at 0v.
hi jbjork, How do you communicate with hackey from 3shul? I tried facebook messenger but no response.
My continuing journey of broken switches:


I broke the middle one last week, hit a big hole under the snow and yea..
I broke it with my crotch :rolleyes:

So now I have these two low profile, supposed to be ip65 switches.
I kind of doubt they really are, as I couldnt turn off the bike after I washed it..


I also killed this one the week before, it is the original kill switch that I used for the horn.
I thought those where more or less indestructible.



I have done some logging with the phone the last two rides.
It seems like when I hit full throttle I often end up between 46-47kw, both these where 421,5bA.
I wonder why that is, there shouldnt be a limit there I think :unsure:
I suppose it limits as the the battery voltage sags badly, but the logger dosent seem to keep up very good with whats happening:


These are one frame at the time. So you can see the first one has low voltage, like 65% load and 260bA, almost 12000erpm (3000rpm). Next frame, duty goes down to 25%, voltage up to 116, rpm down 8600earpm (2150rpm). Those make sense, but power goes up, almost 50kw, 427bA. Next frame duty and erpm goes up, voltage, power and current goes down.
You can also see the grey line that where it is supposed to be in the log, it dosent correspond to the peak at all.
I would need a lot higher log frequency to get better results I suppose.
This is interesting stuff. The implication being that some, off bike, additional data collection system would be useful.