Avitt
100 W
Avitt said:
Well CNY is over, and I heard back from SZKE, who provided the answers to a couple of our mysteries...
The P5 setting is for LCD calibration only (not LVC), and the grey wire, when connected, provides an EABS function.
Cutouts: Solved! Sine Wave Controller S12S
- Thread starter docnjoj
- Start date
Well CNY is over, and I heard back from SZKE, who provided the answers to a couple of our mysteries...
The P5 setting is for LCD calibration only (not LVC), and the grey wire, when connected, provides an EABS function.
An interesting point came up on another controller, when I was talking to someone on the phone about his one cutting out: The controller had a sleep function. If it doesn't get a speed signal from a speed sensor, it switches off after a set time. Do I understand that you're not using a speed sensor? Hmmm!
friendly1uk
1 MW
Wurt?
docnjoj
1 GW
Well it has been conquered! Just attach the speed sensor and magnet to the wheel and the cutouts end! Great! Now I can explore this device more thoroughly. Smooth, quiet and variable torque. Way kool! Next is Pedelec function.
otherDoc
otherDoc
friendly1uk
1 MW
So they must have the $1.90 speed sensor that they don't actually come with? That sucks. I thought the speed sensor was just for motors that drive through variable gears. Good job I bought one anyway. They should really come with the controller.
Anyone buying this controller should get the sensor then. It is controller related, Not display related.
Why do I have just one shunt that looks like household wiring. Anyone looked in there's? I'm not convinced that is right :S
Glad your sorted
Anyone buying this controller should get the sensor then. It is controller related, Not display related.
Why do I have just one shunt that looks like household wiring. Anyone looked in there's? I'm not convinced that is right :S
Glad your sorted
Avitt
100 W
friendly1uk said:
Can't tell clearly from you picture, but that looks like a typical jumper wire (commonly used to make corrections to a circuit, after the board has been laid out).
friendly1uk
1 MW
Avitt said:
Yes, it is more like a heavy link than a shunt. I have just read that d8veh opened his and soldered 10% of the shunt, which I don't imagine could of been this thing. It looks like a bit of 2.5mm2 fixed wiring. Soldered in badly enough to not have 10% left to solder further. It is already covered up the legs, round the bends, and some way across horizontally.
When I opened up my 6 fet, the shunt in there looked like a bit of pipe and was likely made of I forgot. Chosen for it's stable resistance across a wide operating temperature. The s12s looks like copper wire.
doh, it's on the tip of my tongue. Some alloy of zinc or chrome perhaps. I knew earlier. lol
manganin?
friendly1uk
1 MW
Wasn't that a film? lolamberwolf said:
I had not heard of that, but looking it up, it is probably what I'm looking at here
I have slated bmsbattery enough to warrant them smoking my motor. lol It's good to see this stuff exists and I'm not a target. lol
Silver colour the other stuff. Surprised the name has not surfaced by now tbh. I expected to remember within the hour.
What are you wurting about? That's a normal shunt 0.005 Ohms, I believe. It's no different to any others I've seen apart from the not so common flat black rectangular ones..
You should be able to use any speed sensor for the controller. If you have an old cycle computer, you can cut the sensor off that and use it with its wheel-magnet. Connect the two wires to 5v and signal on the speed sensor connector.
You should be able to use any speed sensor for the controller. If you have an old cycle computer, you can cut the sensor off that and use it with its wheel-magnet. Connect the two wires to 5v and signal on the speed sensor connector.
friendly1uk
1 MW
Normal? It's nothing like my other one, which you have put pics up of http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44784&p=669313&hilit=shunt#p669313
My m8s 250w only controller has a bit of wire more like this, but I thought that was because it was rubbish. I expected something like in the pics above. Fat and almost aluminium coloured.
Least it is ok, but I'm still a little surprised by this bit of copper coloured 2.5 where there is space for two things.
I might chop up a cycle computer, the $1.90 thing is a bit big and ugly.
Thanks
My m8s 250w only controller has a bit of wire more like this, but I thought that was because it was rubbish. I expected something like in the pics above. Fat and almost aluminium coloured.
Least it is ok, but I'm still a little surprised by this bit of copper coloured 2.5 where there is space for two things.
I might chop up a cycle computer, the $1.90 thing is a bit big and ugly.
Thanks
docnjoj
1 GW
Yes it is kind of odd that you need the "Speed Sensor" to make the S12S work. I believe you can short the 1/2 wires and perhaps the 3/5 wires and also make it work. That would have been my next test but not necessary. It would mean you don't get the LCD thing showing proper values. Maybe?
otherDoc
otherDoc
docnjoj
1 GW
Well the Devil got me. The plastic part that makes up the part of the LCD to attach it to the handlebar broke. I have glued it together but it think it will have to be remade or reinforced to hold up. bad choice of plastic! Just one more problem. Bah!
otherDoc
otherDoc
DAND214
10 MW
You didn't expect QUALITY from BMSBATTERY did you?docnjoj said:
I'm amazed that they give any support for this item. They have little if any knolage how they work. If they do at all.
Dan
docnjoj
1 GW
The only support I got from them was a note about the blue wire. All the rest came from reading others problems and reading the downloaded data files. I don't expect quality but perhaps I would like things to work? Perhaps too much being asked of them. They do have products that we simply do not make in this country. Possibly Justin will make them but then the price also becomes "Westernized" meaning it costs a lot. Rant over as this controller now works well and give a good power range.DAND214 said:
otherDoc
999zip999
100 TW
Does BMS battery have more or less trust E.S. then Victpower ?
Avitt
100 W
docnjoj said:
Here's a potential solution...
I was unable to use the crappy little LCD mount, because it's too small for my handlebar. My solution was to use a Garmin computer bike mount adapter. I modified the adapter to fit flush against the back of the LCD, and epoxied it securely in place:
The result is a very stable base, and the LCD is removable.
Why have you picked on BMSBattery? They're only selling proprietary items. It doesn't matter where you buy that LCD from, it'll still be made of plastic just like every other LCD that you can get, all of which will break if you overload them. Even the German made Bosch ones break.DAND214 said:
Here's another way to mount an LCD if the clamp breaks using the clamp from an old light or something similar:
docnjoj
1 GW
Thanks Avitt and d8veh for those suggestions. I managed to repair the mount using epoxy putty. Not beautiful but it works. Photos later but you guys made much more photogenic fixes!
otherDoc
otherDoc
friendly1uk
1 MW
I have a friend who fixes up broken plastic dashboards. He generally cuts a small channel to take a bit of copper wire. He puts it in with a soldering iron then melts more plastic over the top. Or you can use metal mesh melted in then smoothed over and painted. This looks like you could put mesh on the surface then milliput over with a wet finger to leave a good finish. Or you could wire it in place and milliput over.
docnjoj
1 GW
I did use epoxy putty but could replace the broken part with some hose clamps epoxied on. It is just a nuisance. It also dropped down to 30F tonight, so no riding tomorrow.
otherDoc
otherDoc
Avitt
100 W
Noticed that bmsbattery is now offering a high power version of this controller, called the S12SH:
http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/667-s06-250w-imitation-torque-square-wave-controller.html
35 Amps & 800 Watts
But it's considerably larger than the S12S: 41x83x170mm vs 38x66x140mm. It won't fit my application.
http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/667-s06-250w-imitation-torque-square-wave-controller.html
35 Amps & 800 Watts
But it's considerably larger than the S12S: 41x83x170mm vs 38x66x140mm. It won't fit my application.
friendly1uk
1 MW
Dear Jim. Can you fix it for me, and get Bafang to make a matching motor (for people that eat cheeseburgers)
friendly1uk
1 MW
Just had a random, hard to place thought.
The controller is for 500w, and can sense the difference between 36 and 48v. It has a 21A maximum.
Could it allow 21A at 36v, but turn that down to say 14A with 48v. Keeping at what it thinks is 500w. The answer is 'of course it could' so has anyone measured?
I will now eat breakfast and realise how stupid my question is
The controller is for 500w, and can sense the difference between 36 and 48v. It has a 21A maximum.
Could it allow 21A at 36v, but turn that down to say 14A with 48v. Keeping at what it thinks is 500w. The answer is 'of course it could' so has anyone measured?
I will now eat breakfast and realise how stupid my question is
If you Google "water bottle handlebar clamp" you will get dozens of results with a strong aluminum unit that can be easily adapted to a variety of mounts. This one is from "Problem Solvers", and is only $12, I like to promote good guys, and this company continues to develop innovative products that are very adaptable to experimenters.
