Cutouts: Solved! Sine Wave Controller S12S

friendly1uk said:
Just had a random, hard to place thought.
The controller is for 500w, and can sense the difference between 36 and 48v. It has a 21A maximum.
Could it allow 21A at 36v, but turn that down to say 14A with 48v. Keeping at what it thinks is 500w. The answer is 'of course it could' so has anyone measured?

I will now eat breakfast and realise how stupid my question is :)

Nope, the controller does not limit itself in this way. And with this LCD, it's not possible to set the maximum current (although this is possible with the new LCD3.)

I am running the S12S with a Mac 10T and a Cellman pack, typically at 54-58V. I consistently see a max of about 27.8 Amps, and 1480 Watts.
 
friendly1uk said:
Just had a random, hard to place thought.
The controller is for 500w, and can sense the difference between 36 and 48v. It has a 21A maximum.
Could it allow 21A at 36v, but turn that down to say 14A with 48v. Keeping at what it thinks is 500w. The answer is 'of course it could' so has anyone measured?

I will now eat breakfast and realise how stupid my question is :)
That can nearly be done with the new LCD3. You can turn the current down from the maximum in 10 steps of 0.5 amps, so the minimum maximum current is 23 - 5 amps = 18 amps. Once set, the current will be the same at 48v or 36v.
 
d8veh said:
friendly1uk said:
Just had a random, hard to place thought.
The controller is for 500w, and can sense the difference between 36 and 48v. It has a 21A maximum.
Could it allow 21A at 36v, but turn that down to say 14A with 48v. Keeping at what it thinks is 500w. The answer is 'of course it could' so has anyone measured?

I will now eat breakfast and realise how stupid my question is :)
That can nearly be done with the new LCD3. You can turn the current down from the maximum in 10 steps of 0.5 amps, so the minimum maximum current is 23 - 5 amps = 18 amps. Once set, the current will be the same at 48v or 36v.

Interesting.
 
They can run without LCD, but how do you know what settings you have?. Much better with a LCD.
 
What to do to run without LDC ?

There is said somewhere that some of the disply cables must be shorted, but which ones exactly ?
 
endlessly_ending said:
What to do to run without LDC ?

There is said somewhere that some of the disply cables must be shorted, but which ones exactly ?

Yes

"Short leads 1,2 and 3,5 on the controller" These would normally go to the display. That is red to blue and black to yellow, unless the color codes have changed over the last 4 months or so.
otherDoc
 
d8veh said:
They can run without LCD, but how do you know what settings you have?. Much better with a LCD.

Good question. What is setting input s12s without LCD or led panel? (Shunt OK 1/2 and 3/5)
 
When I ran the S12S without a display, the cruise control worked, but The controller defaulted to a lower range of the speed assist, maybe #2.
I did not use it long enough to know if any other features worked.
 
Has anyone tested this one

http://www.szktdz.com/en/news_show.php?article_id=352

Its listed in BMSbattery as S12SN
 
I just got mine today, please help me and the future generations to clarify the connectors.

1) regen
2) ?cruise (didn't come with jumper wire) and cruise works with LCD3.
3) speed sensor
4) hall
5) ebrake (two different kinds of connectors)
6) ebrake (two different kinds of connectors)
7) LCD
8 throttle
9) PAS

Thanks
 

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You have all the wires labelled correctly in the photo. I tried a jumper on the cruise wire and it made cruise come on as soon as I was rolling. It would be a good place to wire a cruise switch. I tried a throttle wired to the 3 pin e brake connector but that had no effect. The red wire and yellow wire are 4.7v. The black is ground. I'm not sure if I could modify a throttle to give variable regen. The regen with this controller is ineffective at slow speeds but at high speed it is a beast. I'm waiting for another GT Power meter to come so I can measure actual amps.
 
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