Golden Motor Build 48v and Beyond!

[icecube57]

There was a slight bit of play in the bearings but there was thermal expansion going to aid in the scraping. I know the air gap is small but there seemed to be sever scraping that night I burned it up. A scrape that you felt on every revolution but I got it back to the house and let it cool off it was smooth when i spun it.

 

[icecube57]

Not so boring video. Paved Trail, Unpaved Trail And Some Pavement Action. I had to speed the video up to stay under the 10 minute youtube limit. 10 miles compressed in 7 minutes... not bad.
[youtube]0VH7PqBf4eo[/youtube]

 

[icecube57]

Remember Me. Im about to pick this build back up for health reasons. I need to loose some major pounds and to me a car or motorcycle isnt important cause i work at home and the Dollar General is less than a mile away. Id rather wait for my wife to get home and go to the trail than have a car sit in the driveway getting less than 10 miles a week.

 

[icecube57]

Found a top frame bag that should shift alittle weight forward and it fits 12 packs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-bag-Bicycle-front-tube-bag-Cycling-frame-pannier-pouch-Rack-Bag-New-Yellow-/280903128354?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4167219522

I had the lumenator before. I dont need anything quite as bright but I found this... the price is right and a cheap mount I will be set for dusk riding. I havend decided if Im going to do DC to DC or just some 18650s.

 

[icecube57]

Im considering this motor right here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bike-Conversion-Kit-Rear-Hub-Motor-with-26-Rim-and-Speed-Controller-/110899952835?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d226fcc3
Only because it seems a little bit wider than normal so it should have a wider stator and magnets... but the covers look recessed so it could be a placebo effect. Its for 150mm drop outs. It supposedly does 25mph at 36v i think. So it possibly does the low 30s at 48v. I plan to run at 66v possibly 88v with a Lyen controller. For the price its kinda low risk but then again I just hope everything is on the up and up. It saves me from buying a 7 speed free wheel. Not sure but I will probably vent it if it looks good. I was going to varnish the stator with the insulating varnish.

 

[Hyena]

Remember Me.

Nope

Id rather wait for my wife to get home and go to the trail than have a car sit in the driveway getting less than 10 miles a week.

Yeah my car is quite the driveway ornament these days. It costs me more in insurange, rego etc than what it actually does to run for the amount that I use it.

Im considering this motor right here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bike-Conversion-Kit-Rear-Hub-Motor-with-26-Rim-and-Speed-Controller-/110899952835?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d226fcc3

Interesting, I haven't seen one like that before. It looks kinda like a crystalyte H40 but without any markings on the side covers. You'll have to bust it open when you get it and post pics. The disc brake mount looks to have good clearance too, almost like the moto/scooter spec hub motors. The controller also looks like a scooter style one. We'll need a peek-a-boo in there too :wink:
That's a good price if it is a beefy motor like that. I take it your bike can accomodate the 150mm drop out spacing ?

 

[mark5]

Found a top frame bag that should shift alittle weight forward and it fits 12 packs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-bag-Bi...354?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4167219522

I could use a bag like that so, after you pointed it out, bought one from a different seller that looks exactly like yours. Only thing is this one's dimensions are written as 17 x 10 x 5cm(5 not 15 like your listing says). Both look like the same bag so could be one of these listings has a typo.

 

[icecube57]

Remember Me.

Nope

Id rather wait for my wife to get home and go to the trail than have a car sit in the driveway getting less than 10 miles a week.

Yeah my car is quite the driveway ornament these days. It costs me more in insurange, rego etc than what it actually does to run for the amount that I use it.

Im considering this motor right here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bike-Conversion-Kit-Rear-Hub-Motor-with-26-Rim-and-Speed-Controller-/110899952835?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d226fcc3

Interesting, I haven't seen one like that before. It looks kinda like a crystalyte H40 but without any markings on the side covers. You'll have to bust it open when you get it and post pics. The disc brake mount looks to have good clearance too, almost like the moto/scooter spec hub motors. The controller also looks like a scooter style one. We'll need a peek-a-boo in there too :wink:
That's a good price if it is a beefy motor like that. I take it your bike can accomodate the 150mm drop out spacing ?

My Tidal Force currently has a 26 inch 150mm 7 speed QR wheel on there and it looks fine to accomodate this motor. I measured the the space between the drop outs with my tape measure and its 150mm with a non motor wheel. Ive had a 9C and an X5 with torque arms inside the drop outs so im sure the TF frame could take it .... I wanted to get a second opinion... I also considered getting the GM 901. I got a price of 180 plus about 25 shipping ... its a little bit hotter/faster motor with low 30s @48v i planned to run it at 66v and hopefully hit the low 30s to high 40s. But that ebay motor looks unusually wide which makes me grin but i hope its not a picture skew problem or anything... But if i get the ebay motor atleast i get a few trinkets ... still getting a lyen 12 fet probably what are your opinions ... I really dont think the pricing is right on the HT /HS even maxwells offer. I would pay for an x5 dont get me wrong im not cheap i will pay for quality. The x5400 and greyborg is to much of a lady for me but this ebay motor looks like the middle of the road like the one Hyena is testing out and i think the forum needs a guenia pig for this cause this might be a diamond in the rough.

 

[Ykick]

Interesting motor and price...

 

[Hyena]

I also considered getting the GM 901.

The 901 is the same old motor GM have been selling for years. It'll take 4kw fine on 18S if you drill it. I was hotting these up for a while before switching to the 9Cs, largely for the disc brakes and additional winding options.

The one in that pic does have a pretty narrow rim so that probably makes the motor look wider than it is, but it doesn't have the offset wider side cover on one side like other 35mm motors have (and even the narrower 9Cs for that matter) which makes me think it looks more like a H40. It also has quite a raised section between the freewheel and the motor side cover case - somewhat unnecessarily I'd have thought.
And then as I said previously the disc brake mount seems to be quite deep too. Along with the different controller and seperate phase and hall wires exiting the motor there's definitely something different from most of the other motors we're used to seeing...

 

[dnmun]

i second the guinea pig!

 

[icecube57]

Rim does look narrow. I was gonna consider rim brakes but I cant with big apples. Not on a rim that narrow. well i could with appropriate pad spacers. I have some kool stop dual compound that will lock up a wheel. I could relace it but I need a DW rim with that deep V contour which make the spokes slightly shorter than the normal DW rims that we are used to. I have a 30-35mm DW rim from a previous build I probably want to relace it anyway. THink i might jump on the ebay one... itchy trigger finger... If you had a choice Hyena the 901 or this ebay one... Honestly...

 

[Hyena]

That one for sure. I'd guinea pig one myself if it wasnt for the steep international shipping.

 

[icecube57]

I am now the proud owner of an I charger 306B. 1000w of chargin power....

 

[icecube57]

Im now the proud owner of 20x 4s hard case packs. 20s 20AH 1.68kwh pack... dont know where its gonna go but its gonna be pimpin I may possibly do 16s but i doubt it.. looks like im getting panniers if i carry a full pack but the top tube bag should cary atleast 80% of my pack.

 

[miuan]

Hey icecube, make TWO 20s2p packs. On short trips 2p is all you need. And on the odd occasion, throw one into each pannier as I do.

 

[icecube57]

What ever i do its gonna be 4p something because after I test and cycle the pack about 3-5 times and group them together perma solder the outputs and the balance taps together uses way less materials. I wish i could do the same for the customer.. maybe start some pack building service where i do all the dirty work so you dont have to... buying testing cycling the pack grouping the packs... when I sat down and thought about my harness they are the shit when you dont wanna do the wiring yourself or your soldering skills suck but an insane amount of material is used and it does add some bulk... this pack is gonna be a kewl. I also realized that if all 20 packs come in ok and i run 5s 4p that I cant use my top tube bag... i can use the top tube bag for possibly shorter trips and run 4s 4p but 5s 5p has to be run in a pannier bag with 2s 4p on one side and 3s 4p on the other side.

 

[dnmun]

That one for sure. I'd guinea pig one myself if it wasnt for the steep international shipping.

anybody else wanna second us on the ebay H series knockoff?

that would make it a triple double, 3-2s to make IC do the EB deal for the C'lyte KO?

 

[icecube57]

That one for sure. I'd guinea pig one myself if it wasnt for the steep international shipping.

anybody else wanna second us on the ebay H series knockoff?

that would make it a triple double, 3-2s to make IC do the EB deal for the C'lyte KO?

I hope you werent the "Bastard" =P that i outbidded and contacted the seller to start another auction so i could use buy now. Then he ended up closing the current auction i was winning and I won it since he ended it early. All and all i think i spent 255 shipped and if its what we thinkit is .... we would make out like bandits.

 

[dnmun]

nope, not me, i am totally broke. glad you got one of them to test though.

 

[icecube57]

So i got this I charger 306b and she is a whore.... She puts out and asks questions later.... Also found out my car battery an old AUX battery(2nd battery in the Rear) I admit it is 7 years old.. I had in my car is a POS only deliver 6.8AH at 5A discharge.... Lame! But I also found out the Dell 700w power supply I have are amazing. One supply (No voltage trim pot) holds 11.9 when im only powering the charger with one. When the other one is connected in series I get 24.77v. The automatic fan throttling mod works like a champ... I hear the PSU ramp up and down with the load. Voltage is super solid only dropping 0.05v under full load. My hopes of using the battery to do regnerative discharge into is a bust. In theory i could use it to dump 1 5ah pack into it at a high rate. I suppose i could fast discharge it with a load bank but i think im going to cycle it through the packs with a internal discharger. 5A is 1 c on a pack when im hypermiling it will be barely 0.5-1A per pack cruising at 15-20mph in 4P and maybe 5A per pack in 4p with moderate cruising at 30mph so i think it would best simulate my usual/average riding conditions on my bike.

 

[icecube57]

Ok upon messing with my power supply I found out that I can keep both supplies in series even though 1 is powered on and still power the charger. Although there is about a .7v drop when doing this everything supposedly work normal. Both power supplies plugged in get 24.77v and everything still works fine... I thought that was intresting. I havent put it under full load but i assume a diode is dropping the voltage and i probably should try to pull from the power supplies when they are wired this way with one disconnected or it might cook the diode... i dunno maybe someone can chip in on this phenomenom. Im actually charging in a spare bedroom cause i know the circuit is empty and can power the charge without it tripping stuff in my computer room. I got a 25ft usb cord going to the charger so i can run log view when checking stuff...

In other news I think im going to use a speedict instead of a cycle analyst. I really need a stand alone CA but when i look at the speedict and the additional features its a no brainer. GPS logger data logging on the rides... 80v supported but it can view up 100v Im staying between 16-20s so i should be good. I have an android phone... looking for the perfect bike mount right now... and it has a temp sensors plug in.... its like a wed dream. I wont pull the trigger until next week when i get paid... still on the hunt for a controller.I might have to go tried and true with the lyen. Im just holding off making the controller purchase until i get the motor and found out what im really dealing with so i can decide if i want to get the trusty 12fet or get the cherry popping 18 or even consider the 4115 18ft. I want to stay within the limits of everyth so im like ugh 4115 i can use the speedict ..trying to keep battery wiring simple.

I also found a pannier bag today... not to much bulk. perfect size for the packs.... I think imma use the top tube bag for short trips and the rear for touring. I may also purchase more 4s packs... 5 more packs for a simple 5s 1p pack for truely going to the store or short range trail riding.

I bought that 1000l flash light. I found a cell phone DC to DC to power it. I wanna shrink wrap it but i need some 50mm diameter heat shrink I might simply just get a small radioshack project box and put it in there and pot it with some silicone... Im also looking to find a rear light. Like one that senses braking and power it from the dc to dc also... i may just get a simple blinky flashy. Again my main focus was supposed to be trail/touring 40+ miles or more... with summer being hot here i will be riding closer to dusk... like 2 hours before night fall ... doing 20 miles out and back being a min distance.

I have to buy a new helmet. One thats suited more for regular riding. My motocross helmet is to big and attracts the wrong type of attention. Im trying to go stealth mode this year. Going for the minimal wire this time around use mesh shrink wrap. Use all black wiring and just color code the tips.

When i get the motor.. im going to molest it... I have clear sprayon insulationg varnish that im going to spray the motor with... Im going to consider venting it depending on how the contruction of the motor and side covers. If this motor is wide like i think it is and i wanna pursue more high power sustained riding i will vent. But if I just need to burst every once in a while it might need to keep it stock.... things are just evolving all the time with this project. Im trying to learn from my previous mistakes and not make the same ones again.

Also one thing im going to do is when i package my packs together...they are already hardcase so i dont need any hard protections but that tape from the gorilla tape really got on my nerves and left a horrible residue on the packs. Im going to pre tape with "Frog" Masking tape which almost has an adhesive properties like a post it not. sticks well and peels clean. Once i put a layer of that on the packs i prob will give it 1 good wrap of gorrilla tape.

My pack plans are to cycle them check for defects and make 4 packs. I will remove the 4mm bullets on the pack. Combine/parallel the four pack wires as if i was making a harness and have it out put to 1ft of 8G terminated with possible 5.5mm bullets. The balance taps will be paralleled on each of the 4 packs also. I will bulk charge all parallel pack sections and will only have to use 1 6 to 1 parallel cable to balance all 20 packs... using less materials less cable less connections to frock up when charging and discharging.

I think this completes my rant for now.

 

[docnjoj]

It is good to hear your "rants" again, IC 57!
otherDoc

 

[icecube57]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/45-Celsius-KSD9700-NC-Temperature-Control-Switch-Thermal-Protector-140-Celsius-/330739494289?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d019c2d91

Im going to put this inside the motor and use it 1 of 3 ways. Use it on the ground of the hall wired. To kill the motor completely.

Or with the 3 speed switch. When its tripped its open and closed when its not. so If i put it on speed 3... Speed 3 would be the high/top speed setting and if im pushing it to hard it trips open. This would effectively remove the Top Speed/Unlimited option temporarily and the controller would roll back to the default speed which will be programmed at 50% or less allowing you to limp home until the motor cools off enough and the switch will close again and you can resume you normal riding.

You could also prob use one or two of these at a different value and wired it to some bulbs to give you a warning light on your dash.... but i think the speed switch method would work the best...

 

[dnmun]

disconnecting the hall sensor ground while the motor and controller are running may cause problems for the controller.

you maybe could accomplish the same thing if you ran the brake cuttoff line from the controller to the ground in the motor through your thermal switch.